Author Topic: A New Method for Increasing the Efficiency of a PCP - the SSG (Read 373509 times))

oldpro · « **Reply #560 on:** January 27, 2016, 02:07:10 AM »

There are no flats on mine. The visual surface is flat and could easily be covered with a black vinyl sticker.

I_like_Irons · « **Reply #561 on:** January 27, 2016, 02:12:40 AM »

Bob,

You are right, in that the flats need to be at least as long as the height of the nut flats. Beyond that, when you adjust the spring tension, you should also be adjusting the gap to maintain it at about the same amount. As, I would think, that that is the primary advantage with this design.

My thoughts were to the niceties for the user, rather than for the maker. But, the user would need to be aware of any pitfalls like what you described.

oldpro,

The flats would be on the inside of the gap adjusting screw to keep the nut from rotating while one turns the screw. It would be three cuts with a endmill at 120 degrees for each pass. (More passes might be required as the depth of cut may exceed the limits of what the endmill can handle with a single pass.)

oldpro · « **Reply #562 on:** January 27, 2016, 02:18:32 AM »

The more I think about it the more I want to keep it just like it is, I can easily adjust it and dont need special tools and spring changes are a breeze and having to reach into a counter bore and try to compress the spring and start a nylock nut would drive anyone crazy. I put a lot of thought into this and Im convinced its the way to go. Some may not like it but I cant please everyone. I do appreciate the ideas I sincerely do.

oldpro · « **Reply #563 on:** January 27, 2016, 02:30:02 AM »

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/professional/aluminum-primer-spray Found this etch primer im going to try it out with some matching black paint

Gerard · « **Reply #564 on:** January 27, 2016, 02:41:34 PM »

If you're going with Rustoleum, I'd suggest their Epoxy Appliance Paint line. Unfortunately only available in white, black, and silver, but I've had some excellent results with the black. No rattle can I've tried has ever fully hardened with air drying. All remain easy to scratch. But back in the eary 1980's when I raced BMX bikes I discovered that spray enamels could be baked to harden them properly, which did wonders for scratched up brake calipers and levers and pedals and such. Just prep the surface, cleaning with solvent, then a few light coats per the instructions, then bake at about 200F for half an hour, then up to 350F for another 10 to 15 minutes, watching carefully to make sure things don't get smokey. I got such durable results that I've used the technique on a number of other things since.

More recently when painting a few airgun parts I've made I've found the Rustoleum epoxy paint to be even tougher. Amazing stuff really. I smooth everything, wipe down with rubbing alcohol, heat with a hot air gun until about coffee hot, then do one very light coat and wait a minute. Another bit of heat from the air gun then another light coat. Too much and this paint sags badly, but hey, that same property means it flows out very evenly. Then after about 10 minutes to get really sticky and get rid of some of the solvent in the paint I bake, starting at about 200F to 225F, then moving it up to 350F for the last 10 minutes. Let it cool for at least half an hour before handling as it's still hardening while cooling. If there's any dust motes stuck in it leaving little bumps I'll smooth with 0000 steel wool, maybe 600grit paper if necessary, then re-spray lightly and re-bake. The result is a slightly plastic-looking finish, but it's a nice rich black tending towards deep brown in strong light. After a few days to fully cure the stuff is amazingly scuff resistant, and if you've done your surface prep well there should be no tendency to chip. I'm sure some of the enamels will work just fine too, but just saying this product is my fave for now.

oldpro · « **Reply #565 on:** January 27, 2016, 02:50:02 PM »

Thank You Gerard ill try that.

mooseslayer · « **Reply #566 on:** January 27, 2016, 04:48:28 PM »

I have been following this since the first post the end of December on a couple sites and it is fascinating. I made one like Bob's original design but I can't get power back with my current springs. Does anyone have a design for a disco .22 that has been tested and is using a specific spring?
I want to get 800-850 fps with jsb 15.89 and would love to be able to order what I need to finish this.
I am hoping that ideas and information continue to flow without people keeping it to themselves because they hope to produce them and profit from it.

oldpro · « **Reply #567 on:** January 27, 2016, 05:31:59 PM »

McMaster 24CP .047x5/16x2.5

mooseslayer · « **Reply #568 on:** January 27, 2016, 05:47:38 PM »

Thanks Oldpro. I've talked to people that are excited to make and test their own SSG, either because they love to tinker or can't afford to buy one...and other that just want a drop in solution because they don't have the tools or skill or time.

oldpro · « **Reply #569 on:** January 27, 2016, 08:48:06 PM »

That sounds about right mooseslayer.

lloyd-ss · « **Reply #570 on:** January 28, 2016, 12:09:32 AM »

Oldpro,
The as-built drawings are the only ones that really matter.

Nice job.
Lloyd

SynRodSteve · « **Reply #571 on:** January 28, 2016, 12:30:03 PM »

OldPro, Did you shave the back of the end cap so the original spring tension screw can exit out the back? Is that screw now the 'gap setting' screw?

oldpro · « **Reply #572 on:** January 28, 2016, 12:44:26 PM »

Yes and Yes

SC_RV6A_Pilot · « **Reply #573 on:** January 28, 2016, 01:00:28 PM »

Sign me up for one. My un-modded SynRod 25 is just sitting here waiting for one. I would try to fabricate one if I had the tools.

Thanks everyone for the R&D that has gone into this. I have been watching and learning a ton... knee curves, etc.

SynRodSteve · « **Reply #574 on:** January 28, 2016, 01:05:46 PM »

Thanks OldPro...that was brilliant!

oldpro · « **Reply #575 on:** January 28, 2016, 01:09:40 PM »

You have to machine off the spring adjuster guide section and leave only the threaded portion or you wont have enough room for the spring and rod.

rsterne · « **Reply #576 on:** January 28, 2016, 03:20:21 PM »

I see they finally "woke up" over on the Yellow and are now talking about the SSG.... Steve in NC has developed his own version for the MRod, looks very similar to the one Travis came up with (although it may have the guide fixed to the hammer).... In his words "the race to bring one to market is on".... *LOL*.... It seems there is some surprise (once again) that I released the idea rather than try and market it.... They just don't seem to get it that ideas like this should be shared.... but are glad when they are.... Not so sure Daystate will be very happy about Steve calling it a "Sling Shot Debounce Device" though, since they use that name for their Slingshot Hammer....

Bob

rkr · « **Reply #577 on:** January 28, 2016, 03:24:30 PM »

Shall we call it Bob's SSG then?

rsterne · « **Reply #578 on:** January 28, 2016, 03:25:53 PM »

Many are already.... just don't call me too late for dinner.... *LOL*.... I never like to claim to have invented anything, because it often turns out that it was done decades ago, and I fully expected that.... So far, although some comparisons have been made, nobody has come along with something predating the SSG that uses a preloaded spring and gap to eliminate hammer bounce.... so maybe, just maybe it really is "mine"....

Bob

oldpro · « **Reply #579 on:** January 28, 2016, 03:53:09 PM »

Mines being listed as THe Sterne SSG. credit where credit is due and Steves a little late I have them in stock LOL

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A New Method for Increasing the Efficiency of a PCP - the SSG

Author Topic: A New Method for Increasing the Efficiency of a PCP - the SSG (Read 373509 times))