A New Method for Increasing the Efficiency of a PCP - the SSG

[I_like_Irons]

Mill six flats on the screw instead of the screwdriver slot.   
And, add a thread relief so that the nut will disengage the threads before it hits the nut/screw driver. 

[oldpro]

 The problem is the nut and spring barely fit threw the hole and ive used the smallest spring with enough coils and tension that will work going threw said hole. I can make a long tension adjuster that fits all the way down thats the only way it could work but it may be a viable option, Tomorrows another day.

[ngozdex]

already try to make SSG on my PCP
and the result was so amazing
absolutly zero hammer bounce
i want to add some video but still cant add an external link...

*ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUoySVHh4sM

[oldpro]

Long tensioner wont work either it wont allow you to adjust the rod gap. I guess im back to where I was already but im ok with that. I could build a full blown unit with externall adjusting knurled knob and preload knob but then we would have to double the price at least and I want this to cost under $100 max. I think its fine the way it is the more I look at it, its easy to adjust and easy to make spring changes and will be well under $100.

[I_like_Irons]

oldpro,

Bore the back end of the end cap out larger so that you can remove the gap adjusting screw.  Once that is removed, then you should be able to access the nut, and then internally through the nut driver the screw. 

In the worst case, you might need to use a larger diameter gap adjusting screw to allow clearance for the socket wrench.

But, another weird idea occurred to me just now.  What about making the gap adjusting screw have a six sided recess that holds the nut.  Then, you just wind in the spring adjustment screw until it clears the threads.  Loosen the gap adjustment retaining screw.  Then remove the gap screw along with the nut and spring (hold parts vertically). 

[match]

Can you "round" off the flat a touch and cold blue it? (does cold blue work on aluminum?)

That way it just looks shorter....

[oldpro]

the gap adjuster is also the guide for the rod. none of those ideas will work. I wish they would. I would have to completely remake it and fab all the parts in shop the price would go threw the roof.

[oldpro]

 Heres pics of SSG on gun and if I simply put a black decal on flat then it will blend well. And I wont have to raise price or change how very easy it is to adjust and and do spring changes,

[I_like_Irons]

oldpro,

What I am calling the gap adjusting screw is the one in the end cap i.e. 1/2--20 that is retained by the diagonal screw. 

Simple three sided mill cuts on that screw would be enough to retain  the primary adjustment screw (the one on the spring guide) enough to hold it in place against the Nyloc nut while one turns the screw in or out.  No need to remove it for regular adjustments.

If one wants to replace the spring, then they first wind the adjustment spring in until it clears the threads.  Next they back out the retaining screw.  And finally wind out the gap adjustment screw.

[Motorhead]

oldpro,

What I am calling the gap adjusting screw is the one in the end cap i.e. 1/2--20 that is retained by the diagonal screw. 

Simple three sided mill cuts on that screw would be enough to retain  the primary adjustment screw (the one on the spring guide) enough to hold it in place against the Nyloc nut while one turns the screw in or out.  No need to remove it for regular adjustments.

If one wants to replace the spring, then they first wind the adjustment spring in until it clears the threads.  Next they back out the retaining screw.  And finally wind out the gap adjustment screw.

MAKE ONE and share it .... Pictures of actual working parts are KING !

[oldpro]

 I understand what your saying but it doesnt work like you think, I will have to take it apart and lay it out so you can see what I mean. It doesnt work like Bobs design in function but does as a unit.

[I_like_Irons]

So,  it is not as simple as a fixed rod going through the hammer where the hammer strikes the rod---the spring being compressed by the hammer while the adjustment nut is retained by the gap adjustment screw in the end cap?  For, that is what it looks like in the photos. 

If it is more complicated than that, then my attention is peaked.   

[oldpro]

 No thats it but I dont understand how your idea is going to make it adjustable still. Thats why I said that. Post a drawing or cad file or make one because I do not understand what your saying I guess. Im not trying to dismiss your idea I just dont see it in my head please post a drawing etc. and I will have a look.

[match]

A GREEN Wasp sticker!

[I_like_Irons]

Upon looking at realistic dimensions a deep socket will not be required. 

This is a cross sectional view with an end view of what I think the end cap should look like with the phantom lines showing what the end cap was originally.



With the gap adjustment screw removed, one should get a socket wrench on to the adjustment nut with the clearance provided with the counter-bore.  The gun may have to be cocked.  Then the screw can be rotated in to clear the threads.   That should relieve the spring for removal.

On the second idea, imagine if the gap adjustment screw had provisions to hold the nut in place, i.e. flats.  One could, conceivably, make tension adjustments just by turning the screw.  There would be no need to remove the gap screw.   Also, with this one could wind the screw in until it was clear of the nut.  Upon removing the gap screw, then the spring would be free along with the adjusting nut.

ETA:  The retaining flats would be at the right hand side of the magenta gap adjusting screw. 

[oldpro]

 How is this better? I still dont see the advantage? This will make moving that nylock nut very difficult and I still have raw aluminum sides that are unfinished.

[I_like_Irons]

I guess you now see the original material that you retain with a counter-bore rather than facing it all off.

ETA: This was being posted before your edit.   However, I think it still applies. 

The original anodized material is going to look a lot better than "bright" machined aluminum.  I also suggest blackening the bright aluminum with either Birchwood Casey's  Aluminum Black or black paint. 


I agree that the added expense of having the parts anodized (especially re-anodized) is not worth it.  Plus, if you are buying parts from Crosman, the re-anodizing process will remove material making the parts smaller. 

[oldpro]

 I guess you could put a plug over the end with a small vent hole, I can try it out if it is a hassle I can just face it off. Ill try it.

[rsterne]

One thing I am not sure is being addressed by the "flats on the gap adjusting screw to hold the preload adjusting nut".... The preload adjusting nut, which also acts as a stop to prevent the spring from moving aft when you cock the gun.... moves FORWARD by the amount of the gap PLUS the amount the valve opens.... Any flats would have to be long enough to prevent the nut from rotating even a fraction and hanging up, which could conceivably hold the valve open.... Just something to think about and allow for if you haven't already....

Bob

[I_like_Irons]

What you are saving is the visual surface that would be removed by facing rather than counterboring.

It may not seem to be much from a manufacturing standpoint, but from the customer viewpoint it can make a big difference.

The disadvantage from an assembler's view is that you now require a socket with a handle that does not cover up the hole down the center.  This is where specialized tools become an advantage.   

However, there is the nicety of have the ability to work on stuff with no tools at all.   Any tools that are needed are also a part of the design.  But those kinds of thing require thinking from the first drawing board, not when you are trying to improve on an existing design.