hatsan 125th

[DOUGER]

cant seem to get a trigger adjusted bought for my son and its really hard any good tune for it

[SteveP-52]

There's a very good video on Youtube about adjusting the Quattro trigger. Just make sure you don't over adjust like he explains in the video or you can run into problems with it.

[mafatone]

I have a 135. Thanks for this.

[DOUGER]

where are you guys setting the screws best I get was 2nd screw out like 2 turns back Allen  all the way out then 1/2 turn in still very hard pull

[SteveP-52]

I can't speak up for the 125/135 versions, mine is the Mod 95 and adjusted just like the video. I do remember him saying the triggers even adjusted in the 125's still had a harder pull because of the heavy spring or ram tension they have to hold.
Hopefully one or 2 of the guys who own them will chime in on how they did theirs.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

[DOUGER]

ANY BODY ELSE GET THERES TO PULL LIGHTER AND UPGRADES

[Methuselah]

ANY BODY ELSE GET THERES TO PULL LIGHTER AND UPGRADES

Doug,

The trigger break can be observed through a hole in the side of the trigger group with the stock removed.  Probably of limited value since you can't cock it that way but adjustment with the rifle disassembled gets some discussion (youtube or search here).

Haven't done it myself but when I do, I plan on polishing the contact areas.  If I recall correctly the parts are said not to be flash hardened. 

The parts do have substantial contact pressures and will smooth out on their own over time if this kind of work isn't for you - there definitely can be safety issues in this kind of work!

As far as upgrades, don't know of any except longer screw with end polished.  Gotta understand the trigger group or that could get someone hurt and/or damage the gun.  This voids the warranty and like I said, can be dangerous.  The last post I read about this a cap screw was used and the screw was ground down to limit adjustment range while viewing contact area through the side of the trigger group.

NOBODY will advocate the upgrade screw mod, but since research will find it I wanted to add the safety considerations...  Same for polishing trigger group parts, know what you are doing or don't do it.

[DOUGER]

longer front screw correct

[Gut2Fish]

This three part video is the most comprehensive. I'll tell you straight up you don't need to polish the sears nor do you need to lube all parts. Moly paste applied with artist brush on the actual contact of sears and proper screw lengths is all I did.

I've a Walther Talon which is identical to Hatsan 125 excepting logo on barrel. With the stock off you can use a small screw driver to recock the upper sear and check your pull and distance. Know that when the gun is cocked and trigger under load it'll be much crisper than what you feel of trigger alone. Don't get a hair trigger then put your trigger block and stock back or you'll find it's down right dangerous once loaded. I used a dremel to grind down and make end of new screws conical. For my gun the screw only needed to be a mm or less longer than stock to achieve a light crisp release. Other screw just grind enough so it wont ever apply more pressure to upper sear than first screw, it floats a bit when fully tightened. Then any adjustment is only first stage distance.

The screw behind trigger when stock is off you adjust so it's resting on trigger block then give a turn to apply "some" tension to spring. That's it.

The video's above and common sense for safety and actually seeing what is going on with stock off is all you need, a touch of moly paste on main and upper sear contacts works wonders too. You'll have a crisp trigger that is night and day from stock.

Cheers

[Gut2Fish]

There's a very good video on Youtube about adjusting the Quattro trigger. Just make sure you don't over adjust like he explains in the video or you can run into problems with it.

EDIT- I mentioned somewhere here that the trigger can be reengaged from the circular window in trigger block. Not the case, you need to remove the safety slide that connects to cocking arm. Behind it is a slot where trigger can be engaged. I put pics and wrote it out in this link on 2nd page:
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=102850.20



This is a good video and for those that have not had stock off to see the assembly I'll try to explain what is going on. The tiny screw behind trigger when screwed in will pull up the back of middle sear, that in turn lengthens a spring causing more force needed on trigger release. What he's doing by unscrewing "until you don't feel tension in screw" is resting pivot point of middle sear on trigger block, 1/4 turn back gives "some" tension with spring. The screw farthest from trigger-toward barrel is what is pushing down on upper sear, the deeper this is the less contact upper sear has to next stage of trigger assembly. This is the screw some want a touch longer-if too long you've pushed the sear past any contact and released the next stage of assembly. The screw next to trigger is the one that floats over the upper sear. The trigger does nothing more than rocker on the upper sear plate. Screw closest to barrel is pushing down making for less second stage pull (lessening contact of upper sear to next stage of trigger release). The screw near trigger is floating so if screwed in until touching sear plate you'd have no first stage, screwed out a bit at a time until it's the first stage travel you prefer. First screw is pushing down on sear making a rocker point, next screw is hovering whatever distance you want over sear making for travel of first stage then it contacts sear to push it down for actual release. The distance needed to push down of second stage is determined by how deep you make the first screw.

That's it. Clear as mud eh? It's all so simple once you have the stock off and if you feel a need for longer screw you should have the stock off so you can actually see the contact of seer and know it's got some left not a fraction of mm from edge that could release with a bump to gun regardless if your safety is on or not.

Here's a photo I took when tuning gun. Not sure which this one was for but you can see the hole there in trigger block. Mid trigger, look up from there and there is a hole in trigger block that no pin goes in. That is where the upper sear is contacting the next stage in trigger assembly. Full view of it without doing anything else other than getting the stock off. If you don't want to disassemble further then use a small screw driver to open that contact of upper to middle sear and add some lube there and adjust trigger screws then put stock back on. This photo was taken prior to tuning trigger and believe it shows considerable contact between those two trigger parts. You make it so there is far less contact between the two assemble pieces but still enough it's not going to fire on it's own. I don't believe adding longer screws and doing a drop test of gun butt to see if it fires is a safe way to adjust something. Have the stock off and LOOK at it. You don't need to take out the trigger block or even tune the main seal, just take off stock and get longer screw. Grind down the screw making conical end (the trigger is rocking on this screw end so rounded is what you want for fluid motion) keep grinding until it's a good trigger yet still safe when the screw is fully tightened. That way nobody can ever make it unsafe.

BTW, don't forget to put a nut on screw before grinding so you can fix threads.

[Gut2Fish]

How'd that trigger tune turn out Doug? You should post the results and let others know how easy it was/pitfalls to watch for or tricks you learned from experience.

[DOUGER]

did not try yet have been sick you have good idea ill have to try when feeling better

[Gut2Fish]

did not try yet have been sick you have good idea ill have to try when feeling better

Go to this thread, I made correction to where to reengage trigger and how to get safety slide off. Page 2:

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=102850.20

Sorry for the goof before and hope you didn't get to it yet.

[DOUGER]

longer screw but you have to be a real logic person to not over tighten the screw go slow and easy and the trigger is night and day groups are 10 cents at 22 yards with my son shooting it. that's pretty good for such a powerful springer thanks