Hatsan wood stock finish.... attn Spiralgroove?

[packard8]

Hi Folks,

I have a Hatsan walnut stock for my 1000S on the way (Warranty replacement for a cracked synthetic stock, I paid $20 shipped as an upgrade).

I recall seeing some photos of 2 Hat 95's with refinished stocks that really looked nice, I believe they were posted by member Sprialgroove? Anyway, before I muck up the new stock I'd appreciate any guidance on what Hatsan uses as the factory finish, how to improve it etc. I'm thinking a good cleaning with thinner, a light sanding and perhaps finishing with Danish oil? I have some experience with marine woods & finishes but have never attempted a gun stock.

TIA,

John

[joek]

thought the striker 1000 had a hard wood stock?

[packard8]

thought the striker 1000 had a hard wood stock?

I think there are 2 or 3 versions:

1000S= grey syn stock

1000X= wood stock

and maybe overseas a 1000C with a camo syn stock

[jaraxle1zx]

I use a palm sander and start heavy like 80grit if it needs it but if 100 grit paper works use that.
Then I just go up on grit count of sanding paper till I hit 220.
Pick a stain or if you like the wood just use a polyurethane, use lots of light coats.
If you want it slick wait few days then sand again with 220 and re spray.
I like a semigloss.

When I was a kid I helped my dad build houses and he has a wood working shop also

[packard8]

I use a palm sander and start heavy like 80grit if it needs it but if 100 grit paper works use that.
Then I just go up on grit count of sanding paper till I hit 220.
Pick a stain or if you like the wood just use a polyurethane, use lots of light coats.
If you want it slick wait few days then sand again with 220 and re spray.
I like a semigloss.

When I was a kid I helped my dad build houses and he has a wood working shop also

Thanks Jason!

I've worked with mahogany & teak on boats, but I'm reluctant to use something as aggressive a #80 grit around the checkering on an already finished gunstock. I like hand-rubbed oil finishes, but I'm not sure if Hatsan uses a synthetic sealer/topcoat on their stocks, and if so how to remove it so I'm starting with "virgin wood". Maybe try fine steel wool to remove the factory finish and go from there. I also prefer a semigloss, your Dad taught you well!

Thanks!

John

[jaraxle1zx]

I redid a 22mag awhile back and only reason I even said 80 grit is that it was an old gun with scratches and the finish was real hard to remove.
Wish I could post a pic as the gun turned out amazing.

But most as rule of thumb i don't go that heavy on sand paper unless I have to.
If you do have to, bring it out with step up sanding. The next grit will take out the scratches of the last grit paper.

I like oils/ hand rubs also but I love stain. I can mix stain to get any color I want.

Unless i have a really nice wood grain then I would leave it as is and and just clear it.

I wouldn't use a hand sander on the checkering. Like you said that should be done by hand.

[Oscar M.]

I'd use Stip-Ez to remove the old finish. Then wash this off. Sand to progressive finish to 220 and apply, hand rubbed boiled linseed oil. OM

[Big Tim]

I've been using Tru-oil for years and love it. Great stuff.

[packard8]

Thanks for all the replies. I got the new stock and just gave it a rub down with 0000 steel wool and finished it with 5 coats of Medium Walnut Danish Oil, hand rubbed with terrycloth between coats. I found a few blems in the finish,so will let it cure for a week and apply another coat. Came out reasonably well.

Before & After Pix:

[SpiralGroove]

Hey packard8,
Finally got back in town.  Here is what I do:
1) 2 layers of masking tape to cover checkering.  Use 1 edge razor to trim excess tape along outer checking line.
2) Start with 100 or 120 grit depending of softness of Turkish Walnut.  I use 100 or 120, then 150, 220, 320, 500, 1000 and 1200.
3) Buy your paper at Harbor Freight, it's incredibly cheap and pretty good.
4) I use a little 0000 steel wool too, just not too much as can get stuck in wood pours.
5) Min Wax - Gunstock/Dark Walnut stain, mixture.
6) 15 to 25 coats of Tru-Oil.
7) Polish with Mother's Mag Polish.

Good Luck .......................Kirk

[packard8]

Hey packard8,
Finally got back in town.  Here is what I do:
1) 2 layers of masking tape to cover checkering.  Use 1 edge razor to trim excess tape along outer checking line.
2) Start with 100 or 120 grit depending of softness of Turkish Walnut.  I use 100 or 120, then 150, 220, 320, 500, 1000 and 1200.
3) Buy your paper at Harbor Freight, it's incredibly cheap and pretty good.
4) I use a little 0000 steel wool too, just not too much as can get stuck in wood pours.
5) Min Wax - Gunstock/Dark Walnut stain, mixture.
6) 15 to 25 coats of Tru-Oil.
7) Polish with Mother's Mag Polish.

Good Luck .......................Kirk

Hi Kirk.

Thanks for the tips. See the post & photos above. I just "scuffed" the factory finish with steel wool and 320 grit paper and then applied Watco Medium Walnut Danish Oil (5 coats). I'll try the Mother's polish after a week or so of curing.

The next one I do I'll take it all the way down and try the Tru-Oil looks like it gives more depth.

Best,

John

[Rob112o]

Here is a walnut Benji 312 i did recently. Sanded down to bare wood. 7 coats oh Tung Oil.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=85939.40

Here is a Benji 392. That "American hardwood" much more difficult to do and a 2 week project. I used Kiwi shoe polish. After my 2nd coat i let it dry than sanded back down to bare wood. Applied a 3rd coat let it dry than sanded back down to bare wood. From their i applied 7-8 more coats letting it dry for 12 hrs between each coat. After, matching up the color on forearm and stock i let it cure for 24hrs. After that applied 3 coats oh Tung Oil. I axed the steel wool and used a 3M refinishing pad. The steel wool cuts too deep between coats.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=89986.20

For both the 392 and 312 i hand rubbed the Tung Oil, used microfiber for shoe polish, and used a foam brush for last coat.

[Novagun]

Obviously you are happy with the methods described but I can not see the point of applying oil or wax over the top of the original stock coating. I think you would have take the coating back to bare wood to get any benefit from oil especially if you are using the full Danish Oil system with top coat. Maybe wax could just add a lustre to rubbed lacquer.
I have had some success with rough looking stocks by just rubbing back the original coating to take the gloss off but leaving enough of it on the wood as a sealer coat. I then recoated twice with Cabots Floor Seal. In  case the trade name is different in the USA it is a water based gloss varnish used for sealing cork tile floor and particle board floors. It is water  proof, very tough and has a good gloss without being too shiny. The finish dries quickly and two coats on in a couple of hours.
If I could I would post a photo of my refurbished (stock only) Sharp Victory but I haven't mastered that skill.
Anyway those photos show nice looking guns so keep at it.