Benjamin 177 repair

[mghealeytr]

Hi, All.  I have foolishly acquired an old Benjamin 177 that is in dire need of repair.     It does cock and fire the hammer, but the barrel assembly is not attached to the compression tube and I can see no way of mechanically attaching the breech and barrel assembly to the rear of the tube.  Were these soldered on back in the day?  If so, is there a fix that works?  I would hate to have to part it out if it can be saved.  Thanks, George

[bantam5s]

Hi, All.  I have foolishly acquired an old Benjamin 177 that is in dire need of repair.     It does cock and fire the hammer, but the barrel assembly is not attached to the compression tube and I can see no way of mechanically attaching the breech and barrel assembly to the rear of the tube.  Were these soldered on back in the day?  If so, is there a fix that works?  I would hate to have to part it out if it can be saved.  Thanks, George

Yes the barrels are soldered to the tube.

You'd have to send it off to be soldered unless you have some serious skill.

[RodJ]

Lots of options from (quite literally) physical restraint, to JB weld  to resoldering, according to various threads.

If you google Benjamin (or Sheridan) and “barrel separation” you’ll find lots of photos, advice, and warnings.  The correct way would be to solder it.  Apparently the cause of separation is blamed on the rear sight assembly design on older rifles.  But it would not bother me terribly to strap the barrel back down as a temporary backwoods fix.  JB seems to be frowned on if you ever intend to repair it later with solder.  In joining metal with heat, cleanliness is right next to Godliness if you want to be successful.

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=56049.0

Good luck and enjoy.  It’s not a death sentence.  Hope that helps.

Rod

[eeler1]

Yes, proper job is to resolder.  PM me and Ill give you some names.

[Vee3]

I've seen a few re-solders, but none done neatly.

However, Rustoleum covereth a multitude of sins. 

[Hoosier Daddy]

George do you know what model your .177 is?
Some are worth more than others. Hate to see you throw money away on one than can easily be replaced.
 Look on the rear tube cap for numbers like 310, 317, 347, or on the side of the breech 397, 397P, 397PA.

[Arkmaker]

Would a custom barrel band made on a printer work. If I still had my machines, my thought would be to make one in aluminum.


Anyway those printers are pretty amazing and I guess it's an option?

[OTmachine]

Loctite would do the trick.  https://www.grainger.com/product/4KM31?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvNaf1_aR7AIVRNbACh3l7g7sEAQYAyABEgLsMPD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIvNaf1_aR7AIVRNbACh3l7g7sEAQYAyABEgLsMPD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955915637!!!g!437026409190!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:K6ZVKY:20500731
I worked for a place the ‘90’s that used Loctite to bond a .22 cal barrel liner to the receiver.  Works Great if all of the surfaces are cleaned and prepped properly.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Maybe times have changed.. the new Locktite "380 Black Max" has worked better for me.
I used it on a Sheridan C.... it worked great.
BUT keep any adhesive out of the TP passage. No matter what you use.

[Vee3]

Loctite would do the trick.

Good luck.