GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => "Bob and Lloyds Workshop" => Topic started by: rsterne on February 24, 2015, 10:06:37 PM
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Some of you will remember my ongoing project gun which I dubbed the "Hayabusa".... It has been through three versions, the Mark I was a regulated repeater shooting pellets in .22 and .25 cal, the Mark II was an unregulated version built for bullets in four calibers, .224, .257, .308, and .357, and the Mark III, completed a few months ago, was also unregulated, in .410 shotgun and .458 rifle versions.... I decided some time ago that the 7mm (.284) caliber had some advantages in long range ballistics over the .257 and .308 as a varmint rifle, and finally got a .284 liner with a 14" twist from TJ's and I have on order a 94 gr. Bob's Boattail bullet mold from Veral at LBT which will be sent to Erik at HollowPoint Service to have two of the four cavities converted to HP.... I have been collecting the parts for a while now, and today was the day to start making chips.... Here is the beginnings of the new breech, with the bottom rebate for the main tube machined....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/7mm%20Breech%20Bottom_zpsnbgqreaj.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/7mm%20Breech%20Bottom_zpsnbgqreaj.jpg.html)
The rifle will be built on the Mark II version, using the larger valve which was designed for the .308 and .357.... The valve has a 9/32" exhaust port and the throat is over 5/16", so the porting when used with the 7mm barrel will be full bore area to maximize the power possible.... I will even be using a probeless, retracting bolt to avoid any restriction to the airflow, the idea borrowed from my Disco Double which was the first gun I built to utilize that feature.... I originally planned to use the .308/.357 breech, but with the change to the retracting bolt, and some other changes I have planned for this build, a new breech became necessary....
Bob
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I'll get the popcorn, I like watching your builds.
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Next step will be to drill the breech through the middle.... always nerve-wracking.... and turn the boss for the shroud.... The other reason for the new breech is that I plan on tensioning the barrel, using the CF shroud in compression and Belleville washers to adjust the tension.... The adjustment nut will be a Hatsan Air Stripper.... To secure the barrel it will use a threaded ferrule, holding against a sleeve silver-soldered on the barrel.... I hope to use a thimble so that I can index the barrel as well.... So, although the breech design is based on my previous Hayabusa and Disco Double breeches, there are some new features as well, adding to the complexity.... I'd trying to combine all the power and accuracy tricks in this one build....
Bob
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x2.............got my popcorn too ;D
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will be keeping my eye on this as well, especially the results.
Thinking of doing a sub-caliber barrel for my 50 ala Voltar1
and 7mm might just be that magic sweet spot
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Spent another day on the breech.... got it drilled and the boss for the shroud turned, threaded the front for the ferrule which will retain the barrel (shown), machined out the loading port, the notch for the front mounting band, and drilled all the mounting holes and the transfer port hole....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/7mm%20Breech%20Top_zpsuvxrgl0j.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/7mm%20Breech%20Top_zpsuvxrgl0j.jpg.html)
Not a huge amount of major work left on the breech, just the dovetails on the top, the bolt slot, and the slot to clear the cocking handle on hammer.... Another good day should see the breech pretty much done....
Bob
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BoB,
Why not simply machine a Weaver base/weaver slots into your breech? Why use dovetails? Just askin.........
Man, if i could machine like you guys
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Simplicity.... Dovetails are MUCH easier to machine manually than a Picatinny Rail, and you aren't limited to the exact location of the scope rings to where the slots are.... The anti-recoil slots in a Weaver/Picatinny rail aren't needed on a PCP, and it's not like there is a rigidity problem with a dovetail scope mount.... Also, the breech has to be 0.10" higher to allow for the upper section of the Picatinny Rail.... They do look kewl, though....
Bob
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GOTCHA! And good points Bob. Thanks.
And if i didn't say it before, the breech is lookin good. I likey likey.............
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Good Looking Stuff Mr. Bob! 8)
Knife
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I finished the breech today.... Machined the "J" slot for the retracting bolt, the slot for the side cocking lever on the hammer, the dovetail for the scope mounts, and tapped the holes for the setscrews.... Oh, and prettied it up with a bevel on the top corners....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Breech%20Side_zpsuvjmhikk.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Breech%20Side_zpsuvjmhikk.jpg.html)
Now that this major chunk of work is done, I can get on with the small but interesting bits that I haven't done before, the thimble for the transfer port, machining the overlapping portion of the barrel, and install the retaining sleeve on the barrel....
Bob
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;D I love your threads and I always learn something new in the process
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Gotta watch this one...
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OH MAN! Im at work on my POS computer and it wont let me see the pics!
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I made the thimble and machined the barrel to fit it today, and made the collar to hold the barrel into the breech.... Thanks to Voltar1 for the idea of threading the barrel and the collar instead of silver-soldering it.... it worked like a charm.... You can see how the tubular compression nut will push on the collar to hold the barrel in place in the breech.... Also shown is the new bolt, a retractable, probeless design.... It pushes the bullet past the barrel port and then pulls back clear of the port to maximize flow....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Barrel%20and%20Bolt_zpsbthnumwp.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Barrel%20and%20Bolt_zpsbthnumwp.jpg.html)
For those of you not familiar with a thimble, here it is slid off the end of the barrel.... Basically the port and bolt sealing O-ring are in the thimble, which is held into the breech with one setscrew.... The barrel is free to rotate inside the thimble, which will allow you to index it for best accuracy.... You want the barrel rotated so that it vibrates up and down instead of sideways.... Rotating the barrel will cause the POI to move in a circle on the target.... If it is locked in place at the bottom of the circle, the vibration has to overcome the weight of the barrel, so in theory the groups will be smaller.... The end of the barrel is just ahead of the barrel port, and the chamber and leade are machined in the barrel.... It seals to the thimble with a single O-ring.... In my case, the thimble seals to the valve with a tubular transfer port made of 3/8" Teflon rod that is drilled to bore diameter.... The barrel port is oblong to maintain the area without causing loading problems....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Thimble_zpsxzzhas8x.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Thimble_zpsxzzhas8x.jpg.html)
I found the correct location for the collar, marked it, and installed it with Loctite 638 (green) retaining compound, so it now permanent.... I will dress the OD true to the barrel tomorrow and then I can fit the barrel to the breech for the first time.... I still have to chamber it and cut the leade, plus do the machining at the muzzle to hold the Bellevilles and Air Stripper....
Bob
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Looks good. Is the thimble a slip fit into the breech to keep it centered?
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Yes, the thimble and the barrel (before threading to 9/12"-18 NF)) are both 9/16" OD and are a slide fit inside the breech.... The front of the breech is then counterbored to 11/16" for the collar and then threaded 3/4"-16 NF for the retaining nut.... The boss on the back of the barrel and the front of the thimble are also a sliding fit (7/16") to keep the bore aligned with the thimble bore.... There is a single setscrew pressing on the top of the thimble to keep it in place when the barrel is removed and prevent it from rotating when the breech is removed from sitting on the transfer port....
Bob
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Still following and REALLY likeing 8)
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Any word on your BBT mold, Cedric?.... I haven't heard a word from Veral....
Bob
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Me either. I'm waiting for it to show up so I can cast it. Still haven't spent anymore time on my 7 mm yet.
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BoB and Doug,
No sirs, Not as of yesterdays mail (2-27-15)
Veral works like that. Every mold (3 so far) he has done for me goes like that. It takes a long time (month+) then all of a sudden, POOF, its in the mailbox.
As soon as it gets in i will post some pics. We still have todays (saturday) mail......lol!
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In my case, it won't show up here, it is being shipped directly to Erik and HollowPoint Mold Services for conversion of 2 of the 4 cavities.... I have no doubt that I will have everything on the gun done, except the chamber, long before I ever see the mold....
Bob
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Today I pretty much finished up the barrel.... I fitted the sleeve to the breech and machined a groove in the middle of the threads for the setscrew to limit barrel rotation once I find the right spot.... Then I turned down the muzzle for the Bellevilles and threaded it for the Hatsan Air Stripper, and made the collar to put the shroud in compression.... Here is the assembly....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Barrel%20Assembly_zpsy5xqebnc.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Barrel%20Assembly_zpsy5xqebnc.jpg.html)
Here is the assembled breech....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Breech%20Assembly_zpskxqnynsc.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Breech%20Assembly_zpskxqnynsc.jpg.html)
Here is the muzzle assembly....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Muzzle%20Assembly_zpsr7slz0lz.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Muzzle%20Assembly_zpsr7slz0lz.jpg.html)
and here are the parts used at the muzzle....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Tensioner%20Parts_zpsb26134ku.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Tensioner%20Parts_zpsb26134ku.jpg.html)
The shoulder that the shroud will sit on is 1" long at both ends for stability.... The tension on the Belleville washers is provided by tightening the Air Stripper.... Those are the stiffest Bellevilles I could get, capable of 1335 lbs. force when flat.... although I don't expect to have to use that much to find the "sweet spot".... I have another set of Bellevilles that are 600 lbs. flat load.... The only jobs I couldn't finish were machining the O-ring groove in the thimble (the 7.5mm x 1.5mm O-rings aren't here yet) and chambering the barrel (no bullets yet).... I'm also waiting for the 25mm OD x 22mm ID Carbon Fibre shroud tubing.... So, now we wait....
Bob
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Darned good looking Air Stripper! And good thinking using Bellevilles to set the tension on the shroud tube! Gotta remember that!
Knife
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WOW! Its coming together mighty nicely Bob. Loving it more and more. Im really starting to fathom the "TENSION" idea.
Watching this one in FULL ATTENTION mode!
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BoB,
Got the mold in today sir. Nothing better than getting off work EARLY then checking mail when you get home to find you have something NEW in there...............................................OOOOH LA LA!
Will post some pics!
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Nice.... I imagine mine will be arriving at Erik's any day now....
Bob
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Well mine showed up also. But it's not what I ordered. I know I ordered .285" or .286".
Hopefully yours are the right size
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Hopefully yours are the right size
I 2nd that one Bob. Eric told me years ago to get your mold 1st, CONFIRM IT, TEST IT to make sure its up to your accuracy standards then send it too me for HP'ing. This saves you 106 bucks!
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The cross border shipping kills me.... I may as well give the mold to Erik right off instead of paying three International postage rates....
Bob
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ahhhhhh, the ole cross border shipping rate thingy. Didn't think of that one Bob.
Stupid me just assumes everyone lives in the good ole USA.......lol! Sorry Bob. You know what your doing.....lol!
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Bob,
So i cast some of your bullets this morning and they look pretty good.
They weigh between 98.5 and 99.5 grs and mine drop at .286"+ which is perfect for them to be sized down to about .2855".
The BoatTail looks really good on them also
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Slap up some pics !!!
Bob
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As always beautiful work Bob. What kind of milling machinery do you have?
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Would you believe a 1970s vintage Milling Attachment for my Atlas Lathe?.... 3" vertical travel and 6" on the cross-slide.... and the vice is only 2.5" wide and 1" deep....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Parts%20for%20Sale/IMG_2998_zpsf903de45.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Parts%20for%20Sale/IMG_2998_zpsf903de45.jpg.html)
It is nice and easy to setup for angles, though....
Bob
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My BBT mold has arrived at HollowPoint Mold Services.... getting closer.... *grin*....
Bob
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Bob,
Dougs mishap scared me. I would call Eric to see what SIZE is stamped on the side of your mold. Mine was exactly what i ordered.
I will post up some pics.
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I talked to him and he said he made 2 .284's and a .286. I'm going to cold cast it to see what size it is. He said send it back if it's not going to work for me.
I know I ordered .285" or .286". I also ordered .100" holes in the plate and they are .122"
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I just emailed Erik to have him check that it is .284....
EDIT: Erik replied that it is, indeed, marked .284 which is what I ordered.... so I should be good to go....
Bob
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Then GOOD Bob. nothing like waiting for a long time to find out in the end everything is WRONG!
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A few quick pics BOB of the 7mm BBT 95 gr LBT mold:
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/tofazfou/LBT%20286-95%20gr%20Mold%203.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/tofazfou/media/LBT%20286-95%20gr%20Mold%203.jpg.html)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/tofazfou/CIMG2194.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/tofazfou/media/CIMG2194.jpg.html)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/tofazfou/CIMG2201.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/tofazfou/media/CIMG2201.jpg.html)
Some of the bullets from the BBT mold:
The bullets look good but the smooth lube grooves have me wondering if its my pots LOW TEMP or the mold is just that way. A LBT 130 gr FP picture was taken next to the BBT bullet for comparison. Regardless thought, only shooting will tell. Im going to test them out tomorrow.
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Cedric, it's more than likely the mold temp rather than the pot temp, Folks try to cover up Way too much casting issues by turning up the heat. It's usually only a crutch to cover up something else that is wrong.
Mike
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I will try and heat the mold up more during the casting process and see if i can get some defined lines of the bullets. I don't know though, the lines are hard to see in the mold and i'm casting no different than i usually do.
But again, i will retry everything all over with casting.
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I dropped my mold in the mail to go back. I want .285"-.28550". Plus the the holes were suppose to be .100". Makes for a nice base with the small hole.
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Erik has already done the conversion and my HP mold is on the way north.... Can't wait !!!
Bob
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Erik IS fast for sure! Always like a 1 week turnaround. I love that dude!
Good for you bob. Post up some pics of the conversion and the weights. I can tell you, there is a big FPS difference between the 130's and the 95's......lol! Love the lightweights
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Great.... but can you hit anything with them?.... *LOL*....
Bob
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suuuuure i can! 1 Apple and various water filled Coke cans at 205 yards with 1 shot each. After practicing of course but nonetheless............DONE IT on VIDEO!
I hope for better results though once i RECAST all my slugs over again. The bullet is proving to show some serious potential.
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I'm speechless.... *drool*....
Bob
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DONE IT on VIDEO!
Trust me: You cannot possibly post the vid, soon enough. We're all on the edges of our seats (or even possibly standing)...
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Drew,
Thanks bro. It will be a "few". So much to do, so little time for REAL FUN.......lol! I only made it out to 205 yards on this day. But after i recast, i'm going not only to 200+ yards again but im going somewhere into the 400's (yards that is....) with Bob's bullets along with the 130 gr LBT FNs.
Bob,
On that day, i will also do some close range and far range Chrony shooting so we can get a BC # for these little cute airgun pellets...... ;) ;D
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That will be kewl!.... look forward to it....
Bob
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Bob,
The fastest i've seen the BBT 7mm's tonight is 988.8 fps @ 98.5 grs+-. That's only 214 FPE but i'm much more cool with the speed than the FPE with this gun. Bullets are obviously LIGHT comparted to bigger cals like the 308. But of course, that FPS came from only 3500 psi and i usually fill to 3600 psi.
The 132+ gr LBT FP's are going 100 fps slower @ 882.5 fps off the same fill for 228.3 FPE. I'm cool with that cause its a 250 ft lb gun with 160 gr bullets
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That's CRANKIN'.... *grin*.... I'll only be running 3000 with my Hayabusa, so anything in the 9's will be nice.... I'm looking forward to hearing what the BCs are for the three different bullets.... 160 gr. in 7mm must be HUGE!!!....
Bob
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Bob,
Sorry, there are cast bullets in 7mm that weight that much but i made a GOOF,
The Corsair in 308 i meant is a 250 FPE gun with 160+ gr bullets.
I did shoot some 160 grs while in SC hunting hogs but boy oh boy, they are too much for my gun.
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I thought that might be the case.... *LOL*.... would like to see how the BC compares between the BBT and the 132 gr. however....
Bob
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For sure Bob. I will BC both bullets as i too been dying to find that number on the LBT's since i got that mold.
1 bullet that i had was the 7mm 130gr SOUPCAN bullet and its BC was supposed to be roughly .233 at stated by LEE. So the LBT should be by guessing alone, slightly HIGHER than this number for sure. Its OGIVE is waaaay more streamlined than the SOUPCAN. But at least, it should in my OWN theory.....lol! Also hoping yours is much higher than that too with the BT base. Hopefully at least .300..................(fingers crossed)!
The 160 gr 7mm bullet shot out of my gun but the lead was cut for a 130 gr LEE RN bullet. That 160 bullet had a hard time being pushed into the barrels rifling when i closed the bolt probe. BUT THEY SHOT OUT for sure. I tried 3 of them and just QUIT......lol! With a proper LEAD-IN and sizer, they would shoot just fine. If i had the 7mm on a Custom COndor platform then HECK YEAH, it wouldn't be a problem at all and the FPE would be way up there. But i prefer they lighter pills
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The maximum weight (SD) is directly related to the pressure times barrel length, if you want to get into the 900s.... Sure you can shoot heavier bullets, and they will give you more FPE, but they will be slower.... The only solution is more pressure or a longer barrel.... The 95 gr. weight was chosen based on that is the heaviest I would consider at 3000 psi without going longer than 28-30", which I consider a practical limit.... I figure it will have enough energy to take down anything I would shoot, out as far as I can hit it, so I didn't need more.... The BC is proportional to the SD for any give shape, however, so long heavy bullets can help you reach way out.... Now that Veral has the new nose pattern, he can stretch the length and weight of the 7mm boattail, of course.... Also, he can use his longer ogive existing nose patterns, and my boattail, and produce virtually anything you want.... His system is extremely flexible in that regard.... For example, he could make a mold for that 132 gr. with a boattail very easily.... either with the existing small Meplat, or a slightly larger one.... or right out to a spitzer....
Bob
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Bob,
Thank you for the knowledge on what LBT can do. But i will now say this because of that...............................DARN YOU BOB! DAAAAAARN YOU FOR TELLING ME THAT.................DARN YOOOOOOOOOU!
I dont need another mold.....................................
ok, 1 more maybe (argh, sigh, gasp.....lol)
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The Carbon Fibre tubing for the shroud came in, and I cut it to length and installed it.... I think it looks quite nice....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/7mm%20with%20Shroud_zps4i4eugfs.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/7mm%20with%20Shroud_zps4i4eugfs.jpg.html)
In the photo below, the Air Stripper is tightened exactly one turn from when it first contacts the Bellevilles.... That applies 750 lbs. of tension in the barrel (and compression in the shroud).... I plan to leave it under that load for a week and see if the gap in the Bellevilles increases, which would indicate that the CF tubing is compressing over time....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Barrel%20Tensioner%20Sleeve_zps4btf2mcf.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Barrel%20Tensioner%20Sleeve_zps4btf2mcf.jpg.html)
I don't think that the Bellevilles are unattractive at all, in fact in combination with the Stripper it gives quite a unique and purposeful appearance to the muzzle, IMO....
Bob
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Bob,
Seriously Sir! Nothing unattractive about anything in that complete UPPER unit. NOTHING!
It all looks good the way it is..........WOW!
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Bob,
Seriously Sir! Nothing unattractive about anything in that complete UPPER unit. NOTHING!
It all looks good the way it is..........WOW!
+1! It really appeals to my function over forum.
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cant wait to see it!
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The mold arrived today for my 94 gr. Bob's Boattail bullets, with two cavities converted to HollowPoints....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Bullet%20Casting/7mm%20BBT%20Mold_zpsrladqutd.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Bullet%20Casting/7mm%20BBT%20Mold_zpsrladqutd.jpg.html)
The Mold is available from Veral at LBT under # 284-94-BST.... and the HP conversion was done by Erik at HollowPoint Mold Services....
Bob
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I finally, after a month, got the Metric O-ring I needed to seal the bolt into the thimble.... Last week I had the opportunity to cast some of my new 7mm Bob's Boattails, and that gave me the samples I needed to use the chambering reamer I got from Sean Pero to chamber the barrel.... Here are the results....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Reamer%20and%20Thimble_zpszjf2hdom.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Reamer%20and%20Thimble_zpszjf2hdom.jpg.html)
In the photo above, you can see the system that retains the barrel into the breech, a threaded sleeve that presses against a collar threaded onto the barrel, the O-ring that seals the barrel to the thimble, the thimble itself, and the chambering reamer.... I ran the reamer in until when the bullet was properly seated the base was flush with the back of the barrel, which sits against a shoulder in the thimble just ahead of the transfer port.... The bolt pushes it home to that location.... Below is a closeup of the thimble, showing the internal 7.5mm x 1.5mm x 10.5 mm O-ring that seals on the OD of the bolt, and a bullet which has been chambered....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Thimble%20and%20Bullet_zpsc6evha8t.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Thimble%20and%20Bullet_zpsc6evha8t.jpg.html)
You will notice that the rifling marks on the front driving band are approaching full depth, but the middle band is just entering the tapered leade.... There are no rifling marks on the rear band, it sits in the parallel section of the chamber, which is about 0.001" over the groove diameter of the barrel.... You can feel resistance for about the last 1/8" of bolt travel, but it is not hard to chamber, you are just aware of the bullet engaging the rifling, which I like....
My replacement ShoeBox Compressor (a Freedom 8 ) has been shipped, and with this work completed, I should be ready to test the 7mm version of the Hayabusa once I get it and top up my tanks....
Bob
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Hey Bob, did the CF tubing ever show any indication of comression with that 750 lbsF on it?
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Nope, absolutely none.... I left it for nearly a month and the gap between the Bellevilles was unchanged....
Bob
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NIIIICE!! that is gonna work out so well. Your the best I ever saw.
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I assembled the 7mm Hayabusa today and fired it for the first time.... I tethered it to a regulator at 2900 psi and tested the hammer spring preload to determine if I have enough hammer strike to max the gun out at that pressure, and I do....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Hayabusa%20PCP/Hayabusa%207mm%20Preload_zpsjnfgxgmr.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Hayabusa%20PCP/Hayabusa%207mm%20Preload_zpsjnfgxgmr.jpg.html)
The velocity falls off slightly at the top end, not sure why, but I have seen it before.... It doesn't matter, as the gun would be an Air Hog at anything over 5 turns out from coil bind anyway.... The maximum FPE at 2900 psi was 193 FPE, which is right about where it should be using the 96.5 gr. Bob's Boattails, so I'm very pleased.... My new ShoeBox Compressor is at the Post Office and I'll be picking it up tomorrow, so within a few days I should have some shot strings to share with you....
Bob
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Hi Bob,
Have been following your progress with the Hayabusa project and I for one hope to see you create some shot strings with targets in the background...I am sure many of us are curious as to the accuracy of your new rifle.
Hope all is well with you...
Fond regards, Chuckster
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Got to send a few rounds downrange today.... 1" at 50 yards and just over 2" at 100 yards seemed typical.... I didn't get a chance to index the barrel, play with the tension, or the air stripper yet....
Bob
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Your going to be having some fun for sure with the testing Bob! 8)
Enjoy!!!
Knife
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Your going to be having some fun for sure with the testing Bob! 8)
Enjoy!!!
Knife
YEP, LOTSA TESTIN AHEAD..............WOOHOO! 8)
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You are very talented.
I have learned a lot from your post. Not just this one but all of them.
Sometimes the math goes over my head but it is all about the math.