GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Daisy Airguns => Topic started by: T.J. on July 27, 2014, 01:29:38 AM
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NOTE: I updated this post to change the term "sear" to "flat spring" for consistency, since that seems to be the preferred term by those who have contributed to this post. - T.J.
I have been working on the Daisy 880 trigger for a while, and have come up with some mods that lighten the trigger pull. I have been preparing an 880 for a local air gun silhouette shooting event. The Daisy has the power and the accuracy for the event, I but needed to do something about the trigger.
In order to explain the mods, I think it would be useful to discuss how the 880 trigger works:
* When the bolt is pulled back it pushes down on a lever at the back of the hammer, rolling the hammer back and closing the valve.
* As the hammer rotates back, the hammer spring pushes on the trigger, which repositions the trigger into the firing position. The trigger also has a stop that locks the forward movement of the hammer, so the hammer cannot rotate to the valve open position unless the trigger is pulled.
* The trigger is pegged to a bent steel plate that slides above the hammer pivot. This plate also moves back as the trigger repositions to the cocked position, and it locks the trigger in place. I am going to call this bent metal plate the flat spring (see unmodified flat spring jpeg). You can see part of the flat spring angling up out of the “valve body” (#8 on the 880 parts diagram) if you pull the bolt back and look in the slot where the bolt lever moves (see flat spring in valve body jpeg).
* As the bolt is pushed forward, the bolt block depresses the flat spring, and the front edge of the flat spring engages a step in the aluminum valve body (see flat spring on the step jpeg). This unlocks the trigger.
* When the trigger is pulled, the trigger pushes the flat spring forward and the front edge jumps off the step. As the trigger rotates forward, it compresses the hammer spring and unlocks the hammer, driving open the valve.
In looking at the step where the flat spring engages on the valve body, I could see that the front edge of the steel flat spring was digging into and hanging up on the aluminum step. The front edge of the flat spring had sharp corners from being stamped and formed.
I think the flat spring sticking on the aluminum step is what caused the heavy but crisp trigger pull. After a bit of trial and error, I found I could lighten the trigger pull by bending the front of the flat spring downwards and polishing off the sharp corners. This allows the flat spring to still engage on the step, but it now it slides past the step when the trigger is pulled rather than sticking and jumping off.
The front surface of the flat spring that engages the step is very short. To modify it, I clamped the short front surface of the flat spring in a smooth-jaw vice up to the first bend and then just pushed it a bit with my finger. It took a few tries to move it to where the front surface would slide past the step rather than stick to the step (See modified flat spring jpeg, left side in the image). As you can see on the modified flat spring, the front surface is no longer parallel with the back surface; it is bent down a few degrees. The flat spring was lubricated with a Teflon based bicycle chain lube during reassembly.
Another mod I did was to replace the hammer spring with a shorter, stiffer one (1 3/16 X 3/8 X .054 Ace #136). I cut the spring to be ½ inch long. This was done mostly to make it a lot easier to reassemble the trigger, because there is no preload on the spring. I think the stiffer spring also takes some of the squish out of the trigger (see hammer spring jpeg).
The third mod was to make a trigger shoe out of a piece of wood and glue it to the trigger. The shoe widens the contact surface from ¼” to ½”. It also reduces the curvature of the trigger (see trigger shoe jpeg).
I have been testing the trigger for a few weeks and have not seen any indication that it will accidentally discharge from a bump. Cocking the 880 does not put pressure on the flat spring to release, because you have to pull on the trigger to supply the pressure. However, please proceed carefully with any trigger mod, and test it to make sure it still works safely. These mods are reversible if you decide you don’t like what they do.
YMMV
Tradeoffs
* Slightly less crisp release but I think more predictable
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Nice trigger mods. Though I would highly recommend putting stiffer Trigger/Hammer spring back in that is at least as long as the original, this is because you are slowing the opening of the valve causing it to waste more air by expelling more into the barrel after the pellet has left the barrel, and you are also reducing the power as a result.
You can make a trigger stop to shorten the pull by quite a bit while still maintaining the stronger longer spring.
Just my two cents.
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I was concerned about that, but I do not have a chrony or some other means to measure before and after effects of the mods. I would be very interested if someone who can measure trigger pull and FPS would try the mods and see if there is an impact on performance.
T.J.
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I was concerned about that, but I do not have a chrony or some other means to measure before and after effects of the mods. I would be very interested if someone who can measure trigger pull and FPS would try the mods and see if there is an impact on performance.
T.J.
I stopped calculating FPS do to not rely being needed. Now I use penetration in a dry phone book and consistant pellets as well as how many times a known spinner rotates to compare power when power modding.
As to trigger pull you can use an analog fish scale (like the ones with the slide scale for indication).
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Hi David,
I could probably do the phone book test and report results. Do you have standard setup - pellet types, distance, number of pumps? I would need a baseline to make a comparison. I have 7.7 grain wadcutters, and there should be an order arriving this week with some Beeman 8.3 grain pointeds and some Winchester 9.8 grain domes. I will need to check at WW for a fishing scale. I have a spring loaded one, but I don't think it is very accurate.
T.J.
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Hi David,
I could probably do the phone book test and report results. Do you have standard setup - pellet types, distance, number of pumps? I would need a baseline to make a comparison. I have 7.7 grain wadcutters, and there should be an order arriving this week with some Beeman 8.3 grain pointeds and some Winchester 9.8 grain domes. I will need to check at WW for a fishing scale. I have a spring loaded one, but I don't think it is very accurate.
T.J.
As far as a standard setup it has been a while. All of my Daisy 880's/901's are modified for additional power. Though if I remember correctly the 880's did about 300 pages plus the cover on 10 pumps stock.
Unfortunately I moved half way across the country about 4 months ago and still have not yet located all of my notes.
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Dug out the fishing scale last night. It shows the trigger breaking at about 4 1/2 pounds. I saw in another forum where someone measured the stock trigger at 8 pounds.
T.J.
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Thanks TJ for your post,
I've been wanting to lower the trigger pull on my 901, and after much reading and browsing on these forums, finally some pictures!!!!
I'll get to it when I have time, but just wanted to give a big thanks for taking the time to get some pics up on how you modded your trigger. I'll post my results when I have time too. thanks!
SS
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So I cracked into the 901 tonight, and I got to admit I'm a bit timid to really getting into the trigger assembly. Is there a write up as to getting into the trigger assembly?
As a matter of fact, is there a write-up on how to get into the receiver? One that includes pictures. I love the information this board has to offer, but I feel like there is a lack of pictures / videos. That would really make the difference, and would help newbies get into the rifle too.
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Don't bother pulling the gun apart for polishing and spring changes and stuff. You can easily get a Daisy 880, 901, or 35 to have a beautifully crisp and light trigger with one super-simple mod. Just remove the buttstock and take a look at the back of the trigger blade. See how it has a tab on the back of the trigger that sticks down below the metal tabs inside the receiver when the gun is cocked? Cut a shim from a soup can that will fit tightly behind the trigger when the trigger is pulled and the stock is reinserted into the receiver. The shim will sit inside the two metal tabs on the internal receiver. What this does is keep the trigger from returning far enough to let the rifle cock until you have carefully pulled forward on the trigger blade hard enough and far enough to let the rifle cock. This lets you pull the trigger forward just enough to bend the shim so that the trigger will reset and you have almost zero pre-travel prior to the hammer's release. Once you have the shim bent just the right amount, it will stay in that sweet spot of minimal pre-travel for every future shot. It also provides some spring tension to assist in the trigger pull. My Daisy MSP's all have this 1 minute free mod done to them and they all have triggers that are under 3 lbs, and are, more importantly, ridiculously short and crisp. This simple trick makes any other trigger work unnecessary. Try it and you will be a believer. Also, don't ever use a shorter or weaker hammer/trigger spring if you care about consistency and power. If anything, a similar length but heavier spring would be better.
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That's Money! lol.. That's one I'm going to have to try! I was concerned about hammer spring/valve pressure, but that way seems to circumvent that .. Thanks Money..
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I did dmoneytt's trigger fix. Early testing shows that, it works! Took me a looooong time to find out what is going on, but now that I've gone through all of the brain damage, I have to say so far it's working very well.
The trigger pull...I would guess is around 4 lbs. Very crisp. Strong improvement over a stock trigger. No other modifications.
I used a slightly thick piece of metal, similar to a tin can. Basically it's similar in thickness of a penny. I trimmed it to be slightly narrower than the width of the trigger itself. Length wise, something under an inch.
Anyway, I took some photos. I hope this helps people who are visual learners.
Tips for those who are wanting to try it out.
It is a pain in the butt assembling everything together and keeping the shim in place. Design your shim so that it stays in place better. My shim had a natural curve to it from cutting it with metal sheers, probably made it easier. Follow the next tip to help it stay in place.
Store the rifle in the cocked position, or when mobile. My shim almost fell out of place a few times. When the rifle is cocked, the shim stays in place. When it's uncocked, the shim is loose.
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I did the trigger shim mod last night, and it works magnificently so far. I cut a rectangle from a soup can lid and folded it in half so it sandwiched the rear of the metal receiver tabs with the fold sticking out rearward enough so the butt stock holds the shim firmly in place against the back of the trigger blade. The shim cannot be seen when the gun is assembled. Just like dmoneytt explained, once the shim is in place, you cock the gun and push forward on the trigger to bend the malleable shim enough for the gun to cock. The shim holds this shape and limits forward travel of the trigger blade so you are left with a crisp and light single stage sporter trigger. It took me about an hour to figure it out, but the results are excellent. dmoneytt, or whoever thought up this mod, should get a Nobel Peace Prize for Kitchen Table AirGun Modding. I'm sorry I was so wrapped up in the work I didn't think to take pics.
Make sure your safety is off before removing the plastic receiver covers, otherwise the safety will come apart and the detent ball will go a-flying. Luckily, I found mine.
I was impressed to discover that the gun was very clean inside with little dabs of grease already applied on the trigger contact surfaces from the factory. This $45 dollar Walmart special is one neat little rifle. It was already shooting decent groups. Can't wait to see what it can do with a good trigger.
Have fun,
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Dan
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Anybody else try dmoneytt's fix for the trigger? I think I'll try it, but last time I tore my 880 down mystery parts appeared. Any more hints, tips, suggestions for the 880 trigger?
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Just go for it!
The mod is still working very well for me, it's totally reversible, an you don't have to get deep into the workings of the gun to get to what you need.
To set off the trigger, you need to hold down the metal blade, on the top of the receiver, THEN pull the trigger.
To cock the hammer, just mush it down.
If you have questions let us know! Good luck1!!!
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Anybody else try dmoneytt's fix for the trigger? I think I'll try it, but last time I tore my 880 down mystery parts appeared. Any more hints, tips, suggestions for the 880 trigger?
I just got time to do mine. It definitely makes it lighter. I think mine is under 2lbs.
Like SS said - it takes some thinking to see what it does, but I did it. I think it basically works like the travel screw to take up the first stage ion a 2 stage trigger. On my older 880 the trigger guard and safety comes off of the receiver. All I did was crazy glue 2 thin brass washers to the back of it. Works like a charm. Trigger was so easy I thought it might fire with a bump, but I knocked all over the receiver and could not get it to go off without pulling the trigger.
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=71863.0;attach=94083;image)
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Picture of the can lid shim. Another detail is the safety engagement block will not clear the safety tang on the trigger blade now that the forward travel of the blade is limited. The safety engagement tab needs to be shaved down if you still wish to use the safety. Don't ask how I know this, but be careful not to go too far or the safety will push right out of the housing. I attached a pic of the safety to show what area needs to be cut away.
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Well for me the safety is meaningless. I was taught never to rely on a mechanical safety, only the shooter can provide safety by there habits (in other words use the safety between your ears).
As for the shim trigger mod I am interested, and will be trying it as soon as I find a thin peice of metal to do the job. Thank you for the suggestion, it seems obvious in retrospect, though I did NOT think of it. Thank you.
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OK, going to have to try Moneys mod. Thanks!!!
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Oh yeah, good point about the safety being negated guys. I probably should have mentioned that when I made my original post. I came up with the idea when I first disassembled the gun and looked at putting in a pre-travel screw. I just saw that a soup can shim would be easier than drilling and threading in a screw, so laziness won out on that. I did end up installing an over-travel screw through the trigger guard. These triggers can be made really nice with very little effort. My 901 doesn't group as nicely as my old 880 though. The 901 will do about 3/8" at 10 meters, while the 880 was closer to 1/4". Glad this little mod has helped some folks tame that awful factory pull. :D
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I have tried pretty much everything in print here for trigger mods on the 880/901/35. In print on GTA that is. Pulled a lot of idea's from TJ.
I do not like the soup can mod. I find it takes away the crisp predictable release that makes these triggers so incredible.
An overtravel stop is great. There are 2 ways to do it. Step 1 eliminates the safety, the other ways do not. I'll get pics of all of this later on.
How I mod a trigger for these Daisy's and retain the perfect crisp predictable release and shorten the throw without a shim or a screw.
1st you need to look at how the trigger works. And how the soup can mod works.
The trigger is a simple thing. When you squeeze the trigger rides on a sear on the hammer. The way the soup can mod works or adding a screw to do the sme works is it LIFTS the trigger off of the sear. Which is the reason why that mod makes these weapons lose their predictable trigger.
So I shorten that sear, by 1/2 with a needle file, then sandpaper, then polish. Hard to gt a good pic of, but if you compare your stock hammer to this picture, you will see.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u215/stonykill/DSCF3962_zpsvfauqn1r.jpg)
Note how the top front edge of that sear is angled back. The way an 880 series trigger works it pulls forward and lifts away on release due to the hammer spring. So this angle is all you need. Besides putting a mirror polish on it all.
Remove the flat spring and save it for removing orings from 880 pistons. It is perfect for that. The only purpose of that flat spring is to prevent firing while the bolt is open. And it adds about 4 lbs to the pull.
So remove that flat spring, mod the sear on the hammer as above, polish every contact point, lube up well. You have a very nice hunting weight trigger that is crisp, predictable, breaks at the same point every single time. No surprises.
If you get heavy into mods you will need to make the hammer spring stiffer. And with these mods, you will not really notice the stiffer spring.
It will never be a hair trigger, and personally, I find that a good thing.
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Thanks for the picture Tom! I definitely will be trying this on my 880. Thanks again, Greg. :D
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Never knew the bolt safety spring added to the trigger weight. Away she goes.
Thanks for that info.
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Never knew the bolt safety spring added to the trigger weight. Away she goes.
Thanks for that info.
Yes it does. How that works is it sits on a step. You need to apply several lbs of pressure to bend that flat steel over the step.
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Tom - I spent the $12.00 and got the tube, new piston and tirgger.
Wonder how you did your mod. I filed my trigger and it is nicer but I think it can be better so I spent the $2.50 on a new one.
You filed the hammer. In your pic below did you file the blue, red or yellow?
I'm guessing the yellow, but wanted to be sure
Thanks
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=71863.0;attach=102199;image)
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Yellow
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but i polished the blue along with the rest of the surfaces
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Yellow
Thanks - that's what I was thinking.
On mine I filed 1/2 of the "hook" on the trigger that holds the hammer. Basically I cut the travel in half. It looked to do the same as the "soup can" not letting the trigger go all the way forward. But it did nothing for the "downward" pressure.
For 12 bucks I figure it's worth a shot
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but i polished the blue along with the rest of the surfaces
I did polish the blue, along with the underside of the trigger hook
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I plan on trying your trigger mod with mine to see how that feels.
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but i polished the blue along with the rest of the surfaces
I did polish the blue, along with the underside of the trigger hook
Perfect
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Tom and Rob: Thank you both for what you have shown on modding the hammer/sear/trigger. It's great. Two things so good about Daisy air rifles is that parts are cheap and parts interchange. I've bought a model 35 mostly to tinker with it. Even before this thread, I've tinkered with filing the sear down just to see its impact on the trigger pull. Knowing how cheap and easy it is to replace it means I don't worry about going too far in my experiments with different angles.
A final thought here, just to make sure we are all singing on the same page of the hymn book. The first post in this thread identified as a "sear" the piece that Tom calls a "flat spring," at least as I understand it. It is somewhat confusing when there is mention of filing the sear. The piece identified in the first post as a sear can just be discarded. I know that discarding it make it a lot easier to reassemble the trigger, spring, hammer.
Anyway, thanks again. And BTW, thanks to Tom for the 880 I bought from him. It's a great shooter! He's also in the process of another project fhat I don't have the time, talent or tools to do. I'm looking forward to seeing that happen.
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Tom and Rob: Thank you both for what you have shown on modding the hammer/sear/trigger. It's great. Two things so good about Daisy air rifles is that parts are cheap and parts interchange. I've bought a model 35 mostly to tinker with it. Even before this thread, I've tinkered with filing the sear down just to see its impact on the trigger pull. Knowing how cheap and easy it is to replace it means I don't worry about going too far in my experiments with different angles.
A final thought here, just to make sure we are all singing on the same page of the hymn book. The first post in this thread identified as a "sear" the piece that Tom calls a "flat spring," at least as I understand it. It is somewhat confusing when there is mention of filing the sear. The piece identified in the first post as a sear can just be discarded. I know that discarding it make it a lot easier to reassemble the trigger, spring, hammer.
Anyway, thanks again. And BTW, thanks to Tom for the 880 I bought from him. It's a great shooter! He's also in the process of another project fhat I don't have the time, talent or tools to do. I'm looking forward to seeing that happen.
Agreed on the flat spring/sear thing. TJ called it a sear in the 1st post. I think for the lack of knowing what to call it. To keep things simple it probably should be just called the flat spring.
Glad you are enjoying that 880! That one is certainly a pellet stacker!
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Different strokes for different folks. Glad that those who don't like my mod are having results that please them from other methods. I will add that I have modded a lot more Daisy pumpers with the "soup can" method, and have found that a Crosman Premier metal pellet tin lid makes the perfect shim material, and I'm sure that we all have some of those lying around.
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I also want to add that in no way does the shim or a pre-travel screw LIFT the sear off of the hammer. It just shortens sear engagement, which means that the trigger works exactly as it did from the factory, but most of the unnecessary trigger travel has been removed for a shorter pull. That is all that is accomplished, and it works like a dream with very little work. The trigger break is no less crisp than a factory trigger, because it still is a factory trigger. No geometry has been changed, nor any spring (hammer spring) pressure modified. You just don't have to pull through a ton of mushy pre-travel to get to the break point like you do without the mod.
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I removed just the flat spring and the trigger pull is reduced substantially. Thanks for the tip
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Ok so the first and fourth picture in the initial post is the "flat spring" that needs to be removed?and the other part of it is doing something that prevents the trigger from moving forward as much when you set the trigger?how light is the trigger/how much lighter is the trigger with just the flat spring removed?
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Ok so the first and fourth picture in the initial post is the "flat spring" that needs to be removed?and the other part of it is doing something that prevents the trigger from moving forward as much when you set the trigger?how light is the trigger/how much lighter is the trigger with just the flat spring removed?
There is a noticeable difference by just removing the "flat spring". Easily knocks 2 lbs of pull off of a brand new 880.
I don't have a fishing scale to test trigger pull. But it is noticably less when I am done with all of my mods. I will try to find a little time to put up/take better pictures. But a few posts back you see Rob?bigtinboat and I discussing, and there are pretty good pictures there on how to shorten the throw.
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Been a while since I measured the trigger pull, though as I recall just removing the flat spring cuts the pull nearly in half.
I have not yet done anything on the 880 to effect overtravel, other than a stop for the trigger blade in one. Though I have never worried to much about a long travel on the trigger, that is unless it is a Daisy 953, 853, 753, 888, etc.
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and the other part of it is doing something that prevents the trigger from moving forward as much when you set the trigger?
Missed that part before my morning coffee's. That is in reference to a trigger overtravel stop. It took a lot of head scratching and pm's with TJ to understand it. I have done it on a few 880's including my main hunter the .22 carbine.
There are several ways to do it. The easiest is to remove the safety, replace it with an appropriate sized piece of aluminum and file the area of the trigger stop until the 880 JUST fires. Done this way the trigger only pulls less that a 16th of an inch after firing. Makes for a REALLY nice trigger when used in conjunction with cutting the throw in 1/2.
The other way to do it is to remove the safety without losing that ball and spring and rough up the groove in the safety that is the very deep trigger over travel stop. After it is roughed up, fill it with JB Weld and the do the same process as above. Removing material until the trigger JUST fires.
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You guys are awesome!!!
Well just got done with the trigger mods. What a difference!😀😀
Since I had to pull the piston out. I went a head and filled the piston. Now I have to wait for it to cure. Didn't remember it taken 4-6 hours to cure.😥
I now tough break. I can't believe how sweet the trigger is. I'll probably have it broken in dry firing it.😀
Don
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You guys are awesome!!!
Well just got done with the trigger mods. What a difference!😀😀
Since I had to pull the piston out. I went a head and filled the piston. Now I have to wait for it to cure. Didn't remember it taken 4-6 hours to cure.😥
I now tough break. I can't believe how sweet the trigger is. I'll probably have it broken in dry firing it.😀
Don
HUGE differcnce isn't it? Dry fire to your hearts content ;)
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Kept reading about it...finally did it! Removed that flat spring! And wow what a difference! also plugged off bb hole. Thanks to all. ;D
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Kept reading about it...finally did it! Removed that flat spring! And wow what a difference! also plugged off bb hole. Thanks to all. ;D
:D night and day difference just doing that!
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I have part of an older 880 I picked up for spare parts. I did a "practice run" on that. I had a bad experience a while back,(Crosman) taking something apart and Not being able to get it back together. Frustration. No one around and not enough hands! lol Now I'm searching for parts for that older one! Why not have two? ;D
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I've not tried Money's soup can trigger mod, however, I simply took the flat spring out of the top of the receiver and its lowered the pull by at least half. The result is a lighter and predictable trigger pull. That's much easier than all the other mods. Try it.......you'll like it.
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I have part of an older 880 I picked up for spare parts. I did a "practice run" on that. I had a bad experience a while back,(Crosman) taking something apart and Not being able to get it back together. Frustration. No one around and not enough hands! lol Now I'm searching for parts for that older one! Why not have two? ;D
What parts do you need?
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Hunting yard sales and junk shops.....this is metal receiver/pump arm 880 needing a rear stock, probe, pump latch, and safety, or trigger guard w/safety. I have a buddy out there looking for me too. Other than that the thing still shoots! ;) Don't make much, so trying to do it on the cheap. Figure there's got to be some kicking around, unwanted.
Have tried the pump arm on my new one...didn't like it.
And Hi to Floyd! (the guy that got me started in all this! LOL)
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I got to thoroughly try out the trigger mod (flat spring removal) today at a friends. Wow what a difference. I think it'll make for more accurate shooting. I had to re zero the scope a bit. I was shooting Gamo Tomahawks at about 35, at the little tomato paste cans. Terrific!
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Been reading these post with interest.We purchased a 880 over the weekend.First did the tape trick and removed the bolt that the cock lever locked over.Today finally removed the flat spring.Different gun all together.Thanks folks for sharing this info.I now have a new favorite.
Rusty
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Wendell, try the CPUM 10.5 gr. You'll have a squirrel destroyer for sure. Those things are BAD. Both of my 880s love 'em.
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Thanks, Floyd! ;D
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Wendell, try the CPUM 10.5 gr. You'll have a squirrel destroyer for sure. Those things are BAD. Both of my 880s love 'em.
Most Daisy 880's and 901's seem to really like CPUMS. Devastating on a nutters head
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You guys are gonna make me dive into my metal/metal 880... lol
Tom, if this thing turns out like I want it, I'll send you that stuff we talked about anyhow.
I've decided not to convert to .22
A few things to finish up on the FireCat first, then the 880 hits the bench.
Thanks guys.
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You guys are gonna make me dive into my metal/metal 880... lol
Tom, if this thing turns out like I want it, I'll send you that stuff we talked about anyhow.
I've decided not to convert to .22
A few things to finish up on the FireCat first, then the 880 hits the bench.
Thanks guys.
:D I have faith in you
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It already has a couple things going for it... the metal/metal and the #8 shot I put in the stock adds some nice heft to the gun. Accuracy is spot on.. no complaints there. I'm thinking some fresh seals, clean and lube properly is really going to upgrade it. And if these simple trigger mods do as suggested it might just earn it's place along side my other pumpers. If not, it still looks pretty hanging on the wall. Kind of a throw back to when quality meant something. It is, and always will be a good looking rifle.
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Bill I know you know this, but any questions, email, call, whatever you want. I have faith in ya older brotha ;) ;D :P ::)
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Oh, you know I will.. I might be a backyard hack but, I gots some common sense and was a die tech in the automotive stamping industry for 10 years. Now I got the cushy desk job. One of 2 things gonna happen..it'll either be how I want it or it'll be total FUBAR.
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Bill, how's the Crosman 140 I sold you? Would like to have one good old pumper but can't pump them over 2 or 3 times. I can pump the 880 ten times with ease.
Hope it shoots well for ya.
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I resealed it and got that part working well. Pumps up good and strong. But it must have spent some time in dampness or something. The barrel was all plugged up with corrosion. I get it out every couple days or so and scrub the bore and soak it some more. It's cleaned out and it groups about 1" at 25 yds. It gets a little better every time I scrub the bore. It's a work in progress... worse case senario, I find another barrel... all in all, I'm happy with it. It is the only bolt breech 1400 I have. I wish all my 140/1400 were bolt instead of the collar/sleeve. The rest of the gun cleaned up real well. It was also missing a torsion spring in the trigger... I happened to have one of those here.
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Good deal. I'm glad you could make her go. She is a pretty rifle.
Take care.
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Good deal. I'm glad you could make her go. She is a pretty rifle.
Take care.
Thanks.. looking forward to future deals.
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Got to a breaking point on the FireCat project yesterday (Waiting on the bipod to arrive) so I thought I'd put my 880 on the bench and have a look at that flat spring. With plenty of (lego) guns around here to mod and tinker with, I don't feel the need to do anything irreversible to this nice example of the 880. I was pleasantly surprised at how much metal is in this gun. I have to admit, I was a little intimidated because I'm used to working on springers and Crosman pumpers. I'll be the first to tell you that I have a gun or 2 in pieces in boxes around here because I either broke or lost something. I took my time and looked at everything carefully before I did anything. I had chopped a 35 before but that was a $10 pawn shop gun and it didn't really matter to me if it survived or not. You have to break a few eggs to make an omelette. Even with that one I didn't get into the trigger. Everything looked really good in this gun. I didn't see any seals or o-rings that looked like they needed replaced. Looked like it maybe had too much oil in it. Can't remember if I might have done that when I first got the gun. I cleaned it all up and just put a thin coating of secret sauce on the seals and stuff. I pulled the barrel out of the shroud and taped the muzzle end of it to fit snug. Took me a couple tries until I got it just right. Was ready to put it all back together and Big Brown showed up 3 days early with the bipod for the Firecat. You know how we get when Big Brown shows up... drop everything and go open it! evidently I misunderstood something when I ordered the bipod... it didn't come with the rails so I had to run around and find some. A couple hours later I got back to the Daisy. All in all, it went pretty good... I know that because nothing in the shop had any holes kicked in it. I put the scope on it and headed to the shooting bench. I am impressed !!! I need to get some numbers on it (maybe today before work) but, 10 pumps and a winnie dome, this thing cracks and slams the steel blanks I use for targets. At 25 yds I can virtually stack as many pellets in a dime size group as I want. The trigger is by no means a high end, 2 stage adjustable but, it's very smooth and predictable without that flat spring in it. I can live with it. I think the weight I added to the stock makes the gun feels like a real rifle. You don't feel anything at all when you pull the trigger. Just a nice snap and the pellet is gone. I would not go out and buy one of today's 880s but this one is a keeper. I need to thank the GTA member that gifted me this gun. It will go on the good gun rack.
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Got to a breaking point on the FireCat project yesterday (Waiting on the bipod to arrive) so I thought I'd put my 880 on the bench and have a look at that flat spring. With plenty of (lego) guns around here to mod and tinker with, I don't feel the need to do anything irreversible to this nice example of the 880. I was pleasantly surprised at how much metal is in this gun. I have to admit, I was a little intimidated because I'm used to working on springers and Crosman pumpers. I'll be the first to tell you that I have a gun or 2 in pieces in boxes around here because I either broke or lost something. I took my time and looked at everything carefully before I did anything. I had chopped a 35 before but that was a $10 pawn shop gun and it didn't really matter to me if it survived or not. You have to break a few eggs to make an omelette. Even with that one I didn't get into the trigger. Everything looked really good in this gun. I didn't see any seals or o-rings that looked like they needed replaced. Looked like it maybe had too much oil in it. Can't remember if I might have done that when I first got the gun. I cleaned it all up and just put a thin coating of secret sauce on the seals and stuff. I pulled the barrel out of the shroud and taped the muzzle end of it to fit snug. Took me a couple tries until I got it just right. Was ready to put it all back together and Big Brown showed up 3 days early with the bipod for the Firecat. You know how we get when Big Brown shows up... drop everything and go open it! evidently I misunderstood something when I ordered the bipod... it didn't come with the rails so I had to run around and find some. A couple hours later I got back to the Daisy. All in all, it went pretty good... I know that because nothing in the shop had any holes kicked in it. I put the scope on it and headed to the shooting bench. I am impressed !!! I need to get some numbers on it (maybe today before work) but, 10 pumps and a winnie dome, this thing cracks and slams the steel blanks I use for targets. At 25 yds I can virtually stack as many pellets in a dime size group as I want. The trigger is by no means a high end, 2 stage adjustable but, it's very smooth and predictable without that flat spring in it. I can live with it. I think the weight I added to the stock makes the gun feels like a real rifle. You don't feel anything at all when you pull the trigger. Just a nice snap and the pellet is gone. I would not go out and buy one of today's 880s but this one is a keeper. I need to thank the GTA member that gifted me this gun. It will go on the good gun rack.
See I knew you had it in you. If your feeling all wiley and such... and want to pull it back apart, I'll send you a modded hammer, to shorten the trigger pull by 1/2. Making it a nice short crisp trigger. I should still have one around here somewhere ;)
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and then, Bill, remove the valve and remove.........yeah, just shoot it. Actually the newer ones shoot that good too. Especially after the barrel tape mod and removing the flat spring over the trigger. It loves the CPUMs.
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After a while of shooting mine last night, it developed a major love affair with 9.8 winchester domes... I love it when a cheap gun loves cheap pellets. Makes me feel incredibly cheap.
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Winnies are the FIRST pellet I try with each new gun. My QB78 loves 'em and shoots 'em like a laser. Not so with anything else I have. Once a year I do "pellet try outs" on all guns hoping maybe one will change it's taste and like the cheapos. No luck yet. I have heard that it happens....oh well....keep trying...
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I don't have any luck with Winnies either. Like Floyd, I keep trying. My 901 loves em. Not so much with anything else. It'll all be going well, then fliers, then well. Except for that 901. Just keeps popping them in the same hole.
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Yep, funny how they change. The only thing that 880 wanted were CPUM until taping the barrel. Now it's winnies. CPUMs are still ok but winnies are the shidizzle.
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I keep reading about removing the flat trigger spring on the 880.
I had mine apart this morning but was not sure about taking the trigger apart.
I have not seen an explanation of how to remove the flat spring.
Did I miss it somewhere? Thanks
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I was hesitant too,at first, (had stuff apart that wouldn't go back together!) but this one's not so bad. Removing two pins, and it all comes apart.The shiny piece on top can be left out. Put the sear back in and pin it, then spring and trigger and pin that. Think that's right. Anyway, you'll see a big improvement in the trigger weight! These guys and their mods are the greatest! ;D
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TJ is the one who got me thinking. He and I pm'ed a lot while I was 1st trying to understand what he did, then to further improve on it. Then many others had idea' as well. This particualr thread has been a fantastic joint effort to make what was considered an unfixable trigger into a real nice AG trigger.
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I will get back into it and see what I can do. I was trying to slip it out from the top with out taking
any pins out. It looks like it is hooked on something maybe the trigger. I see that parts are not to
expensive or just buy another one for parts from Wally World.
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You have to take it all apart to get it out. Just be careful.. things tend to go BOINGGG.
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Yes it is the BOINGGG thing that I am worried about.
If it does that I hope that I make it go GGGNIOB!!!!!
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I was trying to slip it out from the top with out taking
any pins out. It looks like it is hooked on something maybe the trigger.
Well I guess I did mine wrong.Just pulled mine out that way with a pair of needle nose pliers.Worked for me with no damage that we can see.. ???
Rusty
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I was trying to slip it out from the top with out taking
any pins out. It looks like it is hooked on something maybe the trigger.
Well I guess I did mine wrong.Just pulled mine out that way with a pair of needle nose pliers.Worked for me with no damage that we can see.. ???
Rusty
LOL.... whatever works I guess. I took a minute to look it over and figured the best way was to take it apart... again, I just can't go to Walbangers and buy another one of these.
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Yes it is the BOINGGG thing that I am worried about.
If it does that I hope that I make it go GGGNIOB!!!!!
George,make sure your safety is off or it will pop apart (boinggg). Also cock the hammer open. The pin for the trigger only comes out one way. The side with the knuckled pin, that's the side it comes out of. That hole is a little bigger. On the hammer pin either way will do. Hope this helps. Don
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Yes it is the BOINGGG thing that I am worried about.
If it does that I hope that I make it go GGGNIOB!!!!!
George,make sure your safety is off or it will pop apart (boinggg). Also clock the the hammer open. The pin for the trigger only comes out one way. One side of the pin is knuckled, that's the side it comes out of. On the hammer pin either way will do. Hope this helps. Don
LOL.... I smell some trial and error here. I made the same discoveries.
The fun of it is.... Stony is sending me a modded part and I get to do it all again.
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Don do I cock the hammer open before taking the gun apart?
And thanks for all the replies guys.
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Yes it is the BOINGGG thing that I am worried about.
If it does that I hope that I make it go GGGNIOB!!!!!
George,make sure your safety is off or it will pop apart (boinggg). Also clock the the hammer open. The pin for the trigger only comes out one way. One side of the pin is knuckled, that's the side it comes out of. On the hammer pin either way will do. Hope this helps. Don
LOL.... I smell some trial and error here. I made the same discoveries.
The fun of it is.... Stony is sending me a modded part and I get to do it all again.
Yah, not as bad when I pull the piston out, when it finally gives, the wheels and pin go flying. Carp!!!😥 It happen couple of times before I cocked open the pumping arm first then pulled out the pin.😀 Oh well live and learn. Don
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Don do I cock the hammer open before taking the gun apart?
And thanks for all the replies guys.
Yes. It won't come apart otherwise. Bolt open, safety off, remove the bolt side receiver 1/2 1st and the saftey won't fly apart.
Don hit the rest well. Look at the trigger pin. It is knurled on one side. The hammer pin goes either way. But out of habit I drive it out the same direction the trigger pin comes out.
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Yes it is the BOINGGG thing that I am worried about.
If it does that I hope that I make it go GGGNIOB!!!!!
George,make sure your safety is off or it will pop apart (boinggg). Also clock the the hammer open. The pin for the trigger only comes out one way. One side of the pin is knuckled, that's the side it comes out of. On the hammer pin either way will do. Hope this helps. Don
LOL.... I smell some trial and error here. I made the same discoveries.
The fun of it is.... Stony is sending me a modded part and I get to do it all again.
Yah, not as bad when I pull the piston out, when it finally gives, the wheels and pin go flying. Carp!!!😥 It happen couple of times before I cocked open the pumping arm first then pulled out the pin.😀 Oh well live and learn. Don
LOL, pump arm open, pin pulled, one hand pulls the piston while the other hand cups the end of the wheel grooves. You catch them as they come out and they stay right on the pin. :D
I have done this stuff thousands of times 8)
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Don do I cock the hammer open before taking the gun apart?
And thanks for all the replies guys.
Yes, you'll have wiggle the to have apart. You might as well add Tom's mod, the 45 degree bevel on the hammer makes a early smoother pull. Once you get that flat spring out you can cock and shoot with the sides of it will help you understand how it works.
P.S., you'll have to spread the frame at the trigger, to slide it off the frame. There is also a plastic pin on the barrel that locks on to the frame. Just pull the frame away from the barrel. Don
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[/quote]
LOL, pump arm open, pin pulled, one hand pulls the piston while the other hand cups the end of the wheel grooves. You catch them as they come out and they stay right on the pin. :D
I have done this stuff thousands of times 8)
[/quote]
Ya, I'm glad I've got you guys to help me out. It would have been a lot worse if I was on my own. I really appreciate all the help! Plus all the fun and camaraderie.😀 Don
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Will I did it, pulled the flat spring out with pliers like Rusty said. It is a not a flat spring now more like a u shape.
The trigger does seem to pull easier but way too much wind here in Iowa to sight it back in.
Did shoot a few rounds that were close to my aim point.
Thanks for help you have all been.
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Don do I cock the hammer open before taking the gun apart?
And thanks for all the replies guys.
Yes. It won't come apart otherwise. Bolt open, safety off, remove the bolt side receiver 1/2 1st and the saftey won't fly apart.
Don hit the rest well. Look at the trigger pin. It is knurled on one side. The hammer pin goes either way. But out of habit I drive it out the same direction the trigger pin comes out.
LMBO... I was re-reading this thread and it struck me... It's been several days since I installed the awesome trigger and hammer you sent me but I clearly remember putting the knurled pin in the hammer and not the trigger. Oh well, just gives me a reason to go back into it. I wanted to look at the fit of the barrel into the receiver and check the seals. I haven't been that far into this gun yet. I get out of work at around 4:00 on Wed. morning and won't have to be back until Monday morning when I go back to 1st shift. I'll see if I can squeeze it into my "to do" list.
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Don do I cock the hammer open before taking the gun apart?
And thanks for all the replies guys.
Yes. It won't come apart otherwise. Bolt open, safety off, remove the bolt side receiver 1/2 1st and the saftey won't fly apart.
Don hit the rest well. Look at the trigger pin. It is knurled on one side. The hammer pin goes either way. But out of habit I drive it out the same direction the trigger pin comes out.
LMBO... I was re-reading this thread and it struck me... It's been several days since I installed the awesome trigger and hammer you sent me but I clearly remember putting the knurled pin in the hammer and not the trigger. Oh well, just gives me a reason to go back into it. I wanted to look at the fit of the barrel into the receiver and check the seals. I haven't been that far into this gun yet. I get out of work at around 4:00 on Wed. morning and won't have to be back until Monday morning when I go back to 1st shift. I'll see if I can squeeze it into my "to do" list.
Maybe some pics of the modded hammer? :D
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LOL... I need some sticky notes.
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LOL... I need some sticky notes.
Actually, I think I got it now. I went back to the post with the colored lines and realized they had nothing to do with the "hump shape". It took seeing the pic of trigger and hammer engaged to know how hammer let-off was accomplished.
The long vs. short spring discussions I'm still ignorant about - hopefully if I just ride out the discussion it will make sense later on ;D
Lots of good stuff lately, very thourough like when pump mods came up but I did just "spot" a reference in the non productive gate I really don't recall seeing;
Shim the bolt magnet to extend the bolt probe.
Food for another thread perhaps?
At least I feel better knowing I wasn't the only one confused by the colored lines :P
Thanks Bill, you too Tom for not giving up on us ;D ;D ;D
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I can try to get better pics. My camera clearly isn't as good as the camera's some of you guys have.
Trust me, it took me a lot of looking and thinking to "get" the trigger myself. As simple as it is, it took a while for me to get it.
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Tom ...as far as pictures go...it helps a lot to use a TRIPOD whenever possible...like shooting, breath and squeeze...working with my cheaper CANNON, I always turn off the AUTO FLASH and try to illuminate shadowed areas with a small light source or extra small lamp...most cameras have a MACRO setting ( NORMAL/MACRO) below center button...and this is mostly used for detail...but watch your distance from the object...if you don`t have a tripod try to brace against a solid object...you can also BOUNCE light into an area by using a WHITE BOARD or sheet of white paper...but above all avoid using the flash..I hope you don`t mind the suggestions...PHIL
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I can try to get better pics. My camera clearly isn't as good as the camera's some of you guys have.
Trust me, it took me a lot of looking and thinking to "get" the trigger myself. As simple as it is, it took a while for me to get it.
Tom,
The tail on the left of the "assembled" group looked like a spring seat and I thought that was what you were referring to (long/short/cut coils). You meant the one between, right? Looks like that tail could serve as an overtravel stop?
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I can try to get better pics. My camera clearly isn't as good as the camera's some of you guys have.
Trust me, it took me a lot of looking and thinking to "get" the trigger myself. As simple as it is, it took a while for me to get it.
Tom,
The tail on the left of the "assembled" group looked like a spring seat and I thought that was what you were referring to (long/short/cut coils). You meant the one between, right? Looks like that tail could serve as an overtravel stop?
I'm not sure what you are refering to as a tail.
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I can try to get better pics. My camera clearly isn't as good as the camera's some of you guys have.
Trust me, it took me a lot of looking and thinking to "get" the trigger myself. As simple as it is, it took a while for me to get it.
Tom,
The tail on the left of the "assembled" group looked like a spring seat and I thought that was what you were referring to (long/short/cut coils). You meant the one between, right? Looks like that tail could serve as an overtravel stop?
I'm not sure what you are refering to as a tail.
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I can try to get better pics. My camera clearly isn't as good as the camera's some of you guys have.
Trust me, it took me a lot of looking and thinking to "get" the trigger myself. As simple as it is, it took a while for me to get it.
Tom,
The tail on the left of the "assembled" group looked like a spring seat and I thought that was what you were referring to (long/short/cut coils). You meant the one between, right? Looks like that tail could serve as an overtravel stop?
I'm not sure what you are refering to as a tail.
That is what the Safety engages.And yes, I hve done mods to both the safety and eliminated the safety on a few and used that for an overtravel stop.
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I can try to get better pics. My camera clearly isn't as good as the camera's some of you guys have.
Trust me, it took me a lot of looking and thinking to "get" the trigger myself. As simple as it is, it took a while for me to get it.
Tom,
The tail on the left of the "assembled" group looked like a spring seat and I thought that was what you were referring to (long/short/cut coils). You meant the one between, right? Looks like that tail could serve as an overtravel stop?
I'm not sure what you are refering to as a tail.
That is what the Safety engages.And yes, I hve done mods to both the safety and eliminated the safety on a few and used that for an overtravel stop.
Well I really was asking cause the talk about the spring - just me trying to follow along.
Why not put a hole in safety bore facing 6:00, threaded hole in safety lining up with that hole when in fire position, grub screw as overtravel stop to limit that tails movement into the safety.
Would that preserve the safety (if it would hold up...)?
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I can try to get better pics. My camera clearly isn't as good as the camera's some of you guys have.
Trust me, it took me a lot of looking and thinking to "get" the trigger myself. As simple as it is, it took a while for me to get it.
Tom,
The tail on the left of the "assembled" group looked like a spring seat and I thought that was what you were referring to (long/short/cut coils). You meant the one between, right? Looks like that tail could serve as an overtravel stop?
I'm not sure what you are refering to as a tail.
That is what the Safety engages.And yes, I hve done mods to both the safety and eliminated the safety on a few and used that for an overtravel stop.
Well I really was asking cause the talk about the spring - just me trying to follow along.
Why not put a hole in safety bore facing 6:00, threaded hole in safety lining up with that hole when in fire position, grub screw as overtravel stop to limit that tails movement into the safety.
Would that preserve the safety (if it would hold up...)?
Well the simpler solution is to partially fill the groove in the safety with JB Weld, and then remove JUST enough material for the gun to fire.
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has anyone combined the flat spring removal mod with the soup can mod? sounds like it would be a very light and crisp trigger
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I just did the flat spring removal to my new 880S, and what an improvement! ;D The last 880S I owned had a decent trigger, but the new one was very heavy. I had never been into the trigger on one of these, but it really wasn't that hard to do this, thanks to all who contributed to this thread. 8)
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I've got one I can't figure out.
Took her apart (880) new style and polished cleaned and lubed. Reassembled and when I pump her to five she shoots fine.
6 and I get a small fart, if I pull the receiver port handle back and forth I'll get another small fart. Three of them for 6 pumps 4 if I pump it 8 times.
I did remove the flat spring and re inserted it, makes no difference same behavior.
What might I have done wrong? Could I have removed too much material from the trigger assembly
any clues??
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You can remove too much material with these modifications.
When I did mine, I had a different problem. I got the trigger travel so small, that it was very close to pulling the valve open even before the trigger was pulled. If I "squeezed" the trigger as I was taught, the air would leak out slowly and the pellet barely pop out of the barrel...
If I YANKED the trigger the air would dump suddenly and the pellet zing out of the barrel.
Needless to say, I need to install a new trigger set....
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Yellow
Thanks - that's what I was thinking.
On mine I filed 1/2 of the "hook" on the trigger that holds the hammer. Basically I cut the travel in half. It looked to do the same as the "soup can" not letting the trigger go all the way forward. But it did nothing for the "downward" pressure.
For 12 bucks I figure it's worth a shot
I just took off a bit of material from the hook as well. I filed it down gently and removed only a small amount of material. I filed it flat with no rounding of any edges. I then polished the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. The only other trigger modification was the removal of the leaf spring.
It shortened up the pull necessary to get the gun to fire. In my case it put it at a rather predictable location just beyond pulling in the initial "slop" in the trigger. It's much easier to use now because it's an easier distance to "fire" for my finger to judge.10/10 would file down trigger hook again.
Here's an image with an arrow pointing to that hook that I filed down. This is an unchanged trigger, but I really didn't take off much material:
(http://i.imgur.com/lR9LmkN.jpg)
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Hi All
This is my first post.
This is a very informative Thread.
I have a Daisy 822 it is a .22 And has a wood stock.
They made them for about two years in the U.S.A. before changing to Daisy 882 SG,
I just did the trigger mod and it worked very fine.
I will be shooting this airgun a lot more now.
the 822 has a flat piston not dish so if you need a flat piston this should work in the other gun in this family.
let me add some thing. all these airguns have a barrel shroud. check and see if the end of the barrel fit tight with no slop.
mine had some slop so i used one round of masking tape to take up the slop at the muzzle and it is a tack driver now.
it shoots better with no slop.
dlparish
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Hi All
This is my first post.
This is a very informative Thread.
I have a Daisy 822 it is a .22 And has a wood stock.
They made them for about two years in the U.S.A. before changing to Daisy 882 SG,
I just did the trigger mod and it worked very fine.
I will be shooting this airgun a lot more now.
the 822 has a flat piston not dish so if you need a flat piston this should work in the other gun in this family.
let me add some thing. all these airguns have a barrel shroud. check and see if the end of the barrel fit tight with no slop.
mine had some slop so i used one round of masking tape to take up the slop at the muzzle and it is a tack driver now.
it shoots better with no slop.
dlparish
everyone does the tape mod because they all have that play in the shroud , welcome to the daisy craziness !
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Hi All
This is my first post.
This is a very informative Thread.
I have a Daisy 822 it is a .22 And has a wood stock.
They made them for about two years in the U.S.A. before changing to Daisy 882 SG,
I just did the trigger mod and it worked very fine.
I will be shooting this airgun a lot more now.
the 822 has a flat piston not dish so if you need a flat piston this should work in the other gun in this family.
let me add some thing. all these airguns have a barrel shroud. check and see if the end of the barrel fit tight with no slop.
mine had some slop so i used one round of masking tape to take up the slop at the muzzle and it is a tack driver now.
it shoots better with no slop.
dlparish
everyone does the tape mod because they all have that play in the shroud , welcome to the daisy craziness !
Mine came without any need for a Tape mod. It's one of the new Purple stocked :-\ 880's.
I do have a wood stock 822 that I will check for barrel slop at the barrel end .
Thanks
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Yellow
Thanks - that's what I was thinking.
On mine I filed 1/2 of the "hook" on the trigger that holds the hammer. Basically I cut the travel in half. It looked to do the same as the "soup can" not letting the trigger go all the way forward. But it did nothing for the "downward" pressure.
For 12 bucks I figure it's worth a shot
I just took off a bit of material from the hook as well. I filed it down gently and removed only a small amount of material. I filed it flat with no rounding of any edges. I then polished the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. The only other trigger modification was the removal of the leaf spring.
...
Here's an image with an arrow pointing to that hook that I filed down. This is an unchanged trigger, but I really didn't take off much material:
(http://i.imgur.com/lR9LmkN.jpg)
Thanks a lot for the photo. I also plan to do mine but still not 100% clear on some details:
1. Did you still "file along the yellow line"? Is the purpose to make the original square corner (of the protruded block on sear) to a 45-degree "chopped" corner?
2. And then you file out a little height of the trigger hook. About how much percentage of the original height?
Thanks a lot for the clarification!
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Mine came without any need for a Tape mod. It's one of the new Purple stocked :-\ 880's.
I do have a wood stock 822 that I will check for barrel slop at the barrel end .
Purple? I haven't seen any purple stocks for 880s.
I've seen PINK, but no purple.
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Ok so maybe it's supposed to be dark brown.
Maybe it is brown to some. To me it's Oxblood purple.
I liked the plastic Blond wood.
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(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/data:image/jpeg;base64,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Yellow
Thanks - that's what I was thinking.
On mine I filed 1/2 of the "hook" on the trigger that holds the hammer. Basically I cut the travel in half. It looked to do the same as the "soup can" not letting the trigger go all the way forward. But it did nothing for the "downward" pressure.
For 12 bucks I figure it's worth a shot
I just took off a bit of material from the hook as well. I filed it down gently and removed only a small amount of material. I filed it flat with no rounding of any edges. I then polished the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. The only other trigger modification was the removal of the leaf spring.
...
Here's an image with an arrow pointing to that hook that I filed down. This is an unchanged trigger, but I really didn't take off much material:
(http://i.imgur.com/lR9LmkN.jpg)
Thanks a lot for the photo. I also plan to do mine but still not 100% clear on some details:
1. Did you still "file along the yellow line"? Is the purpose to make the original square corner (of the protruded block on sear) to a 45-degree "chopped" corner?
2. And then you file out a little height of the trigger hook. About how much percentage of the original height?
Thanks a lot for the clarification!
I did not file down any other parts. Removing the leaf spring is the only other trigger mod I've done. I wasn't 100% convinced that filing down the yellow line mentioned earlier in this thread would give me a trigger feel I wanted (then again, I know very little about triggers other than what a basic understanding of mechanics gets me). It seemed to me like it would result in a less predictable trigger. Again, someone who knows more can tell me why I'm wrong.
As for the amount of material I removed, I would have to guess at only 10%. Remember, this mod will move the break point in the trigger forward, but it can't be moved back once you do. If you're unsure, just remove less than you think is necessary. If it's still more travel than you'd like, take it apart and remove a little more. Again, I only removed about 10% (mayyyyybe 25%) so go slow!
On the other hand, it's a cheap part, so you can always just order a new one if you don't like the results.
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I should really say, I took out the "roundess" of the trigger hook and maybe a tiny bit more. Call that whatever percent you want. You would not be able to tell I filed it down from a side-on glance. I only filed down the vertical face and none others.
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Thank you so much for your follow-up reply.
I totally agree with your suspicion on filing along the yellow line. I couldn't figure our the rationale behind either. That was why I would like to check with your experience. I did remove the flat spring long ago so my trigger weight has drop at least 50% already. Still I would like to reduce the pull length of the trigger.
I have not had a chance to work on the 880 either (too much shooting fun with my 853, ;D) I'll study the trigger action when I do. And I'll report back my trigger mod result.
Thanks again!
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Last night I worked on 880 a little bit and studied on the trigger action. After working on my CMP 853 and 499B so much now, I become quite comfortable to work on it. After some observation, I understand the purpose of previous mods and also came up my own mod. ;D
My mod is very simple and reversible. I used a small piece of cut out from credit card and inserted it between one contacting surfaces of the trigger and sear. The piece is just adhered there by lubricant. The result is about 1lb super crispy trigger (no 1st stage AT ALL) and it can be tuned by the card thickness. Initial test is very promising and I will test it further and report back.
DISCLAIMER: not responsible for any issue or damage by this suggestion. Be very careful working on trigger.
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Obviously a newbie. Very old (compared to most folks on here I'm sure) but decided to try this 880 so I could have fun with my son's & hopefully grandkids some day. I think I'm having more fun then them. Anyway, great little gun but like most folks have already mentioned...probably the worst trigger on the market. So...I found this quote from a thread back in 2013 & was wondering if anyone else has tried it? If so, give me your thoughts & please post any pics u might have. May even be on this thread...just don't know what to look for. Heck I can't even remove the butt stock. Thought the thing would come off with just the 6 screws.
Anyway...thanks' in advance.
Grind the trigger down where it holds the sear. You'll see that it's square and you want to round it so it will take less lbs of pull to fire it. Sand then lube and you'll feel a big difference. When your 880 bites the dust remove the trigger and install it in a new 880 if you plan to get another one.
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Marty, you would be very surprised to see how many of us old farts are here. I think I might suggest to you that you try a few reversible mods on that trigger before you start grinding. Like the one just before your post with the nib of credit card. If you grind too far one of two things can happen. The gun won't engage the sear or the gun will fire with the slightest bump rendering it unsafe. It's not like parts can't be ordered cheap from Daisy but bad things can happen in the meantime. Not doubting your abilities old friend, just a friendly heads up.
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** Before you do any grinding, you may want to take out the "flat spring on top of the receiver assembly first **
The firing action of the the trigger happens when the "「" block on trigger piece slide around the corner of the rectangular block (the "square" in you quoted post) on sear. (It will be more clear if you see the picture on my "Credit Card Trigger Mod" thread.) By rounding the corner that it touches with the trigger's "「" block, you ease up the effort for it to slide "around the corner" and fire. It is really a trial and error process, but if you take out too much material, there is no way back and you have to buy a new sear (cheap though).
The credit card mod that I proposed (see the independent thread) will be reversible and easy to fine tune. You might want to check it out.
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** Before you do any grinding, you may want to take out the "flat spring on top of the receiver assembly first **
The firing action of the the trigger happens when the "「" block on trigger piece slide around the corner of the rectangular block (the "square" in you quoted post) on sear. (It will be more clear if you see the picture on my "Credit Card Trigger Mod" thread.) By rounding the corner that it touches with the trigger's "「" block, you ease up the effort for it to slide "around the corner" and fire. It is really a trial and error process, but if you take out took much material, there is no way back and you have to buy a new sear (cheap though).
The credit card mod that I proposed (see the independent thread) will be reversible and easy to fine tune. You might want to check it out.
Exactly.
However, If you happen across my thread on putting new model 880 guts into the Ted Williams 799 and the 881 you'll see that I DID opt for grinding. I only did this after having some prior trial and error experience and after reading a few years worth of other peoples' posts. The credit card mod is cheap, fast and reversible. It can be adjusted back and forth by using thicker and thinner stock. Grinding is a one shot deal.
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Marty, you would be very surprised to see how many of us old farts are here. I think I might suggest to you that you try a few reversible mods on that trigger before you start grinding. Like the one just before your post with the nib of credit card. If you grind too far one of two things can happen. The gun won't engage the sear or the gun will fire with the slightest bump rendering it unsafe. It's not like parts can't be ordered cheap from Daisy but bad things can happen in the meantime. Not doubting your abilities old friend, just a friendly heads up.
Sound advise from a seasoned Vet. Maybe once I get familiar with the 880's anatomy I can venture into some of those other mods.
Appreciate it Bill.
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The credit card mod that I proposed (see the independent thread) will be reversible and easy to fine tune. You might want to check it out.
dukja can you do me a favor & post the link to your thread. New here & still trying to learn how to navigate your site.
Thanks
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I found the credit card mod to work well, and is easily reversible, but it makes the safety inoperable. I didn't like that as my kids use the 880 and I want them to get in the habit of using the safety.
I ended up grinding bit by bit until the trigger was light enough. It took a while and several trial-and-error disassemblies, but the safety still works.
Somehow I missed the removal of the flat spring as an option. Guess I have to go back in sometime and try that. That flat spring does make it more difficult to assemble properly too, so with it gone it should go back together much easier.
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Yeah, some of us just take for granted that the flat spring is essentially the first thing to go. That really lightens the pull. The CC mod shortens the pull but also sets the trigger's home position more to the rear. Grinding shortens the pull leaving the trigger's home position forward just as it is stock. Basically not affecting the safety at all, but again, baby steps. To go even further... while you have the trigger and sear out of the group, hold them together and simulate the moving as if the trigger were being pulled. It becomes apparent where they rub and make contact with each other. These are the areas you will want to polish and apply preferred lube. I use moly paste because it tends to stay put better. You don't want to remove any material, just smooth it up and much as possible. I also cram a dab of moly in the holes where the pins go in. The nibs on the clamshells hold the pins so they can't slide out once the gun is back together. The top of the "square block" and the bottom of the "hook" also can be smoothed and lubed. I like to leave the edges where the "hook" leaves the "square block" sharp. (not rolled) This makes a very crisp break. Remember, any material you remove changes things.... a lot!
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The credit card mod that I proposed (see the independent thread) will be reversible and easy to fine tune. You might want to check it out.
dukja can you do me a favor & post the link to your thread. New here & still trying to learn how to navigate your site.
Here is the link:
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=116786.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=116786.0)
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Dukja, thanks for the link. Great description & photo's (I'm a visual learner...or maybe technically challenged) :(. I certainly want to give this a go but like Bill mentioned; baby steps (kinda like that one). ? though; Scott mentioned the card mod nullifies the safety. Is this the case with your method?
Not really a hard core competitive shooter (not by a long shot ;D). A 1lb pull would be great but not for my boy's or future grandkids. However, I like the idea that shims can be placed at different thicknesses to adjust to anyone's comfort level & it is reversible.
For now I think I will start by removing the flat spring & see if that is enough for what I'm looking for. If not, on to step two.
Thanks guys. Great stuff!
Oh ya...& the mid barrel support.
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LOL.... don't forget the cup shim, silicone caulk in the butt stock, foam heat tape on the pump arm to reduce pumping noise and the other 9999 little mods that we all do.
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LOL.... don't forget the cup shim, silicone caulk in the butt stock, foam heat tape on the pump arm to reduce pumping noise and the other 9999 little mods that we all do.
Definitely the silicone. Cup shim for sure if the card cancels out the safety. Foam heat tape? Lost me...(which if you haven't learned by now isn't brain surgery, or maybe it should be) ???
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Just to reduce that clackety clack pumping noise so you don't scare everything within 100 miles away when you pump it. You can get rid of the spring that holds the pump arm closed because once your shim the piston cup the cam over holds the pump arm shut. Then you can put a strip of 1/8" self sticking foam heat tape in the channel to silence the pumping noise.
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Ok...took about 1 hour to complete flat spring removal & straw barrel tape wrap. You guys are having way too much fun. I don't think I would attempt mods like these on my high powered rifles, but with this $40 pea shooter...made me feel like a gun smith ;D. Nice improvement on the trigger. Although I am sure the card mod will come sooner rather than latter. But again, can anyone tell me if this card mod eliminates the safety?
I am sure the tape wrap will also be a big improvement. Tried counting the number of wraps but forget that idea (+ - + -) until it finally snugged up just about right.
Off to purchase a tube of silicone...
Bill...Thanks. Your right about the pump racket. Can you post a link to this mod?
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I'm not sure if there is a thread on it. You'll know the spring because you have to put it back in if you take the clam shells apart. The pump arm has a bit of a notch near the trigger guard that clips to the spring when you close the pump arm. Just leave the spring out. You'll want to shim the pump piston cup first so the cam over (pressure from the cup pressed against the nose of the valve) keeps the pump arm from flopping open. The main reason to shim the piston cup is to eliminate all head space. This will give you all possible compressed air into the valve with each stroke. The local hardware store sells rolls of closed cell 1/8" thick X 2" wide foam pipe wrap tape. They could even call it window/door insulator. One side is peel and stick. Just cut a strip to fit into the channel that the pump arm fits into when closed. It prevents plastic from smacking plastic while pumping. Some guys even use the fuzzy side of Velcro. If you just plink and don't mind the noise it's really not important. I just find it annoying and use it on all my pumpers.
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Thanks Bill. Will attempt it for sure soon.
Back to the Flat Spring; I dry fired the gun & the trigger definitely appeared shorter. However, just finished firing a few rounds & I was mistaken. The only difference for me is the trigger pull is smoother but the travel is the same :-\. Anyway sure would like to try the credit card shim but if I am not mistaken, I think I read somewhere that this mod illuminates the safety, or did I mistake this mod for another? Someone...anyone?
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CC mode will shorten the travel effectively. Not sure about the safety since I never used it and have no chance to try it yet (work).
“THIS IS MY SAFETY, SIR.” - Black Hawk Down. ;D
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Ok thanks. Any one else? Have you tried this "CC" mod & if so, does your safety still work?
Maybe it's just me but a gun w/o a safety isn't for me.
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Scratch that. Checked some old threads & there isn't any interference with the safety. Will try this CC mod tomorrow. Sounds like a great idea. In addition, also need to buff all the rough edges of the trigger & sear, & re-tape the straw barrel (shots were everywhere ???) but I'm having fun.
Thanks guys.
One more thing; since I will be buffing these parts what oil should I use? 30 weight non detergent oil? Any need to grease other parts? What kind of grease? Anything at Walmart I can pick up?
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I personally havn't tried the CC mod because I have had spare triggers laying around for various reasons to tinker with. I have seen at least one post that their safety didn't work after the mod. In all fairness to the CC mod, only that poster knows exactly what he did and how he applied the mod. Obviously the thickness of the CC affects the results. As for lube, as I stated before, I use moly paste from Jim Macarri. I have that on hand because it came with a few springer kits I ordered. As far as the flat spring... that has nothing to do with the length of the trigger pull. It merely makes it smoother and lighter and easier to cock the bolt. In my experience, the only way to shorten length of trigger pull is with the CC or grinding... I do remember something about a soup can mod but I never tried that either. Even as I type I also remember yet another way is to fill some of the notch on the safety bar itself with JB Weld. Never tried that either. When Stonykill wraps up his landscaping season for the year and gets back to the GTA regularly he is a wealth of Daisy information. You may also search his past threads on the Daisy.
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Point well taken Bill. I decided to dive right in anyway & so far all is good with the safety. After 7 hours non stop, to say the results are amazing would be an understatement. This little guns trigger is sweeter than those on my high powered rifles. Hopefully I can figure out how to post pics & I will get some up before too long.
At any rate this is a summary of what I did;
1. Sanded all the burrs on both the trigger & hammer.
2. Buffed & polished all contact points including both pins.
3. Washed all parts with mild detergent & finished w/alcohol.
4. Here is where my method changed slightly; I mounted the shim on the trigger instead of the hammer (krazy glue). I found this spot a little easier to glue & file as needed.
5. Assembled, dry fired, & filed the shim several times until I had the right amount removed.
6. Lubed pin shafts, hammer & trigger
7. Re-taped straw barrel
8. Siliconed butt stock
9. Flat Spring (gone)
10. Rotated my 3x9 scope 90 degrees to get the windage out of the way.
Like I mentioned before...time consuming but the end result was well worth the effort! Hat's off to Dukja & Stonykill!
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Here are the pics referencing the above post...
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Awesome job.. pics speak volumes. So many questions get answered through pictures. If I'm not mistaken, Dukja actually originally suggested the CC on the trigger. You did it correctly. Dude, you are going to be surprised what you've done for accuracy. Consider this.... I've found that even the 880 is going to have a favorite pellet.... ours happen to all three like the Winchester domes best of what we've tried. That is perfect for us because they are cheap and local ($4.59 for a tin of 500 @ TSC) We buy 4 - 6 tins every bi-weekly trip to town. Look around and maybe stumble onto a worn out metal receiver/metal pump arm beater and move all your tuned up guts into it. I pick my TW 779 or the 881 up and I can hardly put them down.
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Thank you Bill. Means a lot.
Yes absolutely with regards to seemingly no limits as to what can be done with this model. Looking forward to trying out several different loads to see which ones this gun likes best. Thanks for your recommendations. Should quicken my search. Off to TSC in the morning for chicken feed. Will pick some Winchester's up while there.
Also looking forward to checking out the all metal conversions. I would imagine that if Daisy did that for us the $ amount for this model would go through the roof.
Thanks again.
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Nice work and I am glad that everything work out for you!
Yes, the shim is supposed to put on the trigger. And it is easy to try different thickness while the receiver is assembled. No disassemble/reassemble is needed in the trial stage.
I am interested to hear that your safety still works. In my case, I may push the thickness farther and my safety cannot be engaged (I finally checked it last night).
And thanks to the photo of CC mod. When I invented it, I didn't know it will work so well, so i never take any picture of it. :-[
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Thanks Dukja. Amazing mod you came up with. Brilliant!
As for the safety; Once the safety was released (gun under pressure) the gun fired. Happened a couple of times & then I felt something give as if though the safety mechanism seated itself. No problems since. Also banged on the gun a couple of times to make sure it wouldn't go off accidently.
I will pay close attention to the safety to make sure it's cured. Just curious; what is it about this mod that affects the safety's mechanism?
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I have no idea why this mod may affect the safety, as I never used safety in my 10-m target shooting. Someone takes a closer look at the safety mechanism may quickly discovery the possible solution. In my experience with Daisy 853, I suspect the CC mod may case the trigger to moved and interfered with the safety rod. I would imagine some notching work may cure the problem.
I am sorry that I am too busy to shoot my guns (let along to work on 880) at this moment. Someone may come up a solution faster than I can atm. ;)
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Awesome job.. pics speak volumes. So many questions get answered through pictures. If I'm not mistaken, Dukja actually originally suggested the CC on the trigger. You did it correctly. Dude, you are going to be surprised what you've done for accuracy. Consider this.... I've found that even the 880 is going to have a favorite pellet.... ours happen to all three like the Winchester domes best of what we've tried. That is perfect for us because they are cheap and local ($4.59 for a tin of 500 @ TSC) We buy 4 - 6 tins every bi-weekly trip to town. Look around and maybe stumble onto a worn out metal receiver/metal pump arm beater and move all your tuned up guts into it. I pick my TW 779 or the 881 up and I can hardly put them down.
Are these them Bill? I've been using Crosman "Premier Hollow point" 7.9gr thinking a harder hit on small game. Although much more drag I'm sure.
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Awesome job.. pics speak volumes. So many questions get answered through pictures. If I'm not mistaken, Dukja actually originally suggested the CC on the trigger. You did it correctly. Dude, you are going to be surprised what you've done for accuracy. Consider this.... I've found that even the 880 is going to have a favorite pellet.... ours happen to all three like the Winchester domes best of what we've tried. That is perfect for us because they are cheap and local ($4.59 for a tin of 500 @ TSC) We buy 4 - 6 tins every bi-weekly trip to town. Look around and maybe stumble onto a worn out metal receiver/metal pump arm beater and move all your tuned up guts into it. I pick my TW 779 or the 881 up and I can hardly put them down.
Darn...double posted. Can't delete. Sorry.
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Yep, thems the ones.
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NOTE: I updated this post to change the term "sear" to "flat spring" for consistency, since that seems to be the preferred term by those who have contributed to this post. - T.J.
I have been working on the Daisy 880 trigger for a while, and have come up with some mods that lighten the trigger pull. I have been preparing an 880 for a local air gun silhouette shooting event. The Daisy has the power and the accuracy for the event, I but needed to do something about the trigger.
In order to explain the mods, I think it would be useful to discuss how the 880 trigger works:
* When the bolt is pulled back it pushes down on a lever at the back of the hammer, rolling the hammer back and closing the valve.
* As the hammer rotates back, the hammer spring pushes on the trigger, which repositions the trigger into the firing position. The trigger also has a stop that locks the forward movement of the hammer, so the hammer cannot rotate to the valve open position unless the trigger is pulled.
* The trigger is pegged to a bent steel plate that slides above the hammer pivot. This plate also moves back as the trigger repositions to the cocked position, and it locks the trigger in place. I am going to call this bent metal plate the flat spring (see unmodified flat spring jpeg). You can see part of the flat spring angling up out of the “valve body” (#8 on the 880 parts diagram) if you pull the bolt back and look in the slot where the bolt lever moves (see flat spring in valve body jpeg).
* As the bolt is pushed forward, the bolt block depresses the sear, and the front edge of the flt spring engages a step in the aluminum valve body (see flat spring on the step jpeg). This unlocks the trigger.
* When the trigger is pulled, the trigger pushes the flat sping forward and the sear jumps off the step. As the trigger rotates forward, it compresses the hammer spring and unlocks the hammer, driving open the valve.
In looking at the step where the flat spring engages on the valve body, I could see that the front edge of the steel flat spring was digging into and hanging up on the aluminum step. The front edge of the flat spring had sharp corners from being stamped and formed.
I think the flat spring sticking on the aluminum step is what caused the heavy but crisp trigger pull. After a bit of trial and error, I found I could lighten the trigger pull by bending the front of the flat spring downwards and polishing off the sharp corners. This allows the flat spring to still engage on the step, but it now it slides past the step when the trigger is pulled rather than sticking and jumping off.
The front surface of the flat spring that engages the step is very short. To modify it, I clamped the short front surface of the flat spring in a smooth-jaw vice up to the first bend and then just pushed it a bit with my finger. It took a few tries to move it to where the front surface would slide past the step rather than stick to the step (See modified flat spring jpeg, left side in the image). As you can see on the modified flat spring, the front surface is no longer parallel with the back surface; it is bent down a few degrees. The flat spring was lubricated with a Teflon based bicycle chain lube during reassembly.
Another mod I did was to replace the hammer spring with a shorter, stiffer one (1 3/16 X 3/8 X .054 Ace #136). I cut the spring to be ½ inch long. This was done mostly to make it a lot easier to reassemble the trigger, because there is no preload on the spring. I think the stiffer spring also takes some of the squish out of the trigger (see hammer spring jpeg).
The third mod was to make a trigger shoe out of a piece of wood and glue it to the trigger. The shoe widens the contact surface from ¼” to ½”. It also reduces the curvature of the trigger (see trigger shoe jpeg).
I have been testing the trigger for a few weeks and have not seen any indication that it will accidentally discharge from a bump. Cocking the 880 does not put pressure on the flat spring to release, because you have to pull on the trigger to supply the pressure. However, please proceed carefully with any trigger mod, and test it to make sure it still works safely. These mods are reversible if you decide you don’t like what they do.
YMMV
Tradeoffs
* Slightly less crisp release but I think more predictable
T. J. can you tell me where you found the spring in your first pic? I am assuming at Ace Hardware... Thanks
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Yes, the spring came from Ace Hardware.