GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => China/Asian AirGun Gate => Topic started by: texgunner on January 14, 2014, 01:26:01 AM
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First off I want to give a shout out to Mike Melick for digging up a couple breach seals for the old XS-B18 rifle I have, this rifle has been an excellent shooter for several years now, but the breach seal was just wore out and flush with the receiver so I figured it would be a good idea to replace it so everything would be sealed up again like it should be, no on to my issue and question.
I have been able to shoot dime to nickel size groups out to 20-25yds with the rifle using Stoeger 8.64gr X-Field Pellets until today after I replaced the breach seal, I did have to shim it a few thousands to get the height to just a few .001" above flush so that it would seal good, all that looks just like it did when gun was new now and I can tell I have a very good seal, probelm is that my accuracy is gone right out the window with this gun now, and I mean out the window....... like 3-4" groups at 30ft now.....! LOL
this rifle is all over the place now, I still have the same cheap little Tasco 4x32 pronghorn scope on it, which isn't the greatest scope by any means but it has always held an excellent zero and worked nice on this rifle for hitting soda pop can size objects all day long out to 40 yds or so.
Any of you experts here think the increased velocity from replacing the seal is my problem and maybe I need to a couple other pellets to see if I can find something it may like better now? I'm just amazed that replacing the breach seal could have made this gun shoot so different, it isn't good enough for hunting at all now, I have never had one of my air rifle shoot as bad as this thing is shooting now and it was one of my most accurate rifles.
Any advise or ideas are much appreciated, I plan to go to wally world tomorrow maybe and pick up a can of Crosman Premier HP's and run some lead through it to see if it will start coming back together, if not I'm not sure what I will do with this one,I emailed Mike and hope he can shed so light on this for me, I think he may be gone to a shot show so I may not hear back from him for a few days so I thought I'd post this and pick a few other peoples brains on the matter.
Thanks, Shan
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I think I read somewhere that if the breech seal is too proud, it can produce vertical stringing. You'll see the shots line up more or less in a vertical line.
If that's the pattern you're seeing, try backing off on the shim(s) behind the new seal (or give the new seal time to set a little).
Other than that you could check to make sure your stock screws and barrel pivot haven't become a little loose.
Just my first thoughts early in the mornin'. I'm sure there'll be more ideas as the sun comes up.
Blue
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Just as a test,... I think I'd remove the shims completely, and shoot a couple of groups.
Then,... if no improvement is made, I'd try the old seal in it again for another couple of groups.
That way, you will have established a baseline, and possibly found a cause and/or effect.
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Thank you Blue and Ron,
I'll check everything over again and I may try a slightly thinner shim under the seal, the old seal got seriously damaged when I removed it and the paper shim that was under it from the factory got tore up also, I tried to use the original shim but it made the seal stick up so much the barrel wouldn't lock into place, so I made a shim from .012" mylar which wasn't enough and the shim was a bit recessed, so I made another that is .008" I know I can easily reduce height by .005" with another shim I have made up so I may try that and see what my results are.
I've added a couple pix here to show how the seal looks in the breach currently.
Thanks again for the replies and suggestions, texgunner
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Ok I have some results to report, after the rifle sat through the night it seems the seal has become better conformed since being pressed tightly, I decided to take a few shots before making any changes to seating depth of seal in breach and have found that the Stoeger X-Field 8.64 grn pellets don't seem to group well anymore after the FPS increase from the new seal, but I run 5 Predator 8.0 grn pellets through it at 27ft and the group tightened up nicely, by the way these shots were not from a rest, just sitting on couch with rifle propped on my knee so results are not as precise as they would be from a solid rest.
below are some pix of the target results of how it's shooting now with the X-Field pellets and the Predators, I'm going to town in a while to pick up a can of Crosman Premier HP's and see how they act, it seems that the rifle is gonna settle down as is, just need to try a few pellets to find out which it will end up liking the best, the Crosman Premiers have worked very nicely in this rifle in the past so hopefully that will still be the case, if not I'll order several 25ct samples off of ebay like I did for my Benji Disco and do some range testing from a solid rest and hopefully get this thing back to where it was so I can be confident when I pull the trigger on a bird or a fuzzy tailed Tree Rat.
Peace, texgunner
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Sorry to Chime in, But I need help removing the rear safety from my QB-18, Any Help??Thank's, Andy.
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Sorry to Chime in, But I need help removing the rear safety from my QB-18, Any Help??Thank's, Andy.
This is what is called High Jacking a thread, you should post your question in the correct place not in the thread I started here, you should post your question in this area and start your own thread... (:~)
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=3.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=3.0)
texgunner
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Found what may be my biggest problem with the XS-B18, scope mounts are not holding on receiver, I noticed that the scope had slid back close to 1/4" so I'm now I plan to get a better mount on it which I have ordered and probably a better scope while I'm at it and then I can get a good shooting session in to find out what pellet this thing is gonna like the best and if the Stoager pellets were the issue after the seal change or if it was the scope moving around the entire time that was causing my issues, I'll update this thread as I move along with this rifle, thanks again for all the comments and advice, I'm new here but can tell already that this is a great place to be and there are a bunch of great people here.
texgunner
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Terribly Sorry,,,,No Dis-Respect intended there, Amigo, and as I said "Sorry for Chiming in", but I'm at my wits end, I've posted this question more than a few times, Just felt sort of Invisible. Once again, Sorry to've upset you. Cheer's, Andy.
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Terribly Sorry,,,,No Dis-Respect intended there, Amigo, and as I said "Sorry for Chiming in", but I'm at my wits end, I've posted this question more than a few times, Just felt sort of Invisible. Once again, Sorry to've upset you. Cheer's, Andy.
You didn't upset me at all brother, I was just saying what I did because I was thinking you would get more attention to your question if it was put somewhere other than here in this thread, sorry if I came across as being upset, that wasn't my intension at all, when words are all we have to go by and we cant see expression or hear tone of the voice it's easy to type things out in a way that can be taken wrong, you did NO harm to me here at all....
I'm thinking your QB-18 may be the same basic gun as my XS-B18 it's been so long since I have had this thing out of the stock I can't even remember for sure what the trigger group looks like or maybe I could help you with the question you have on removing the safety, I'll do some digging and see what I can come up with and if I find something useful I'll post it here for you bro.
txgunner
EDIT:
After doing a quick search on youtube, I can see that the QB-18 is a different looking trigger and safety than my XS-B18, sorry cant help on this one Andy.
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Just a short update here on the XS B18 rifle on mine, lately the last few time I have got it out to shoot I've shot it indoors at 10 meters, it has been shooting horrible with every pellet I've tried and it seemed like the fps had fallen because even at 10 meters there was a space between when I heard the rifle shoot and then I would hear the pellet hit the target, I knew that wasn't right with this gun because it had shoot at much higher velocity in the past, as I tried several different pellets yesterday I noticed the power continuing to drop off until I could aim at top of target and pellet would drop over 12" at 10 meters and I heard a different sound from the rifle on the last 4-5 shots, the cocking effort still seems the same but power has gone, I'm assuming I have a blown out piston seal and possibly a broken spring, I wont know until I get into it when I have the time.
Could anyone here please point me in the right direction for a new spring and piston seal for this rifle, I'm sure it shares the same parts as other Chinese rifles but I don't know which ones it would be, and I was also wondering if since it's a clone of the Gamo 220/440 rifle, will the Gamo spring and seal work in the XS-B18....?
Any advise and a point in the right direction will be much appreciated..... ;D
Thanks, texgunner
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I go to Air Rifle Headquarters for my piston seals.
If it's the same B18/19 that Crosman uses, I think the Apex Small ($10) is the one that fits.
I've never bought a spring but I think he's got them too. Everything's pretty well labeled as to what it fits but if you're not sure, I bet Jim can help you figure out your options.
Blue
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Shan, if you could post some photos of the rifle it may be helpful in. I may be wrong, but I think the B18/19 platform is a clone of the Gamo 220. If so, Crosman will be the source for the cheapest parts. ARH will have springs and seals of higher quality, but a bit more pricey. QB18 IIRC is a SAG rifle and different rifle altogether. Check out the "Chinese Airgun Portal" link at the top of China Gate it is full of info about Chinese AG's.
Scotty
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Thanks fellas,
From what I have read, the XS-B18 is a clone of the 220/440 Gamo rifle and yes it is the same as the B18/19 so I will go on that and see what I can dig up.
Here are some pix I dug up.
(http://www.airguns.net/images_reviews/xs_b18_4.jpg) (http://www.airguns.net/images_reviews/xs_b18_3.jpg)
(http://www.airguns.net/images_reviews/xs_b18_1.jpg) (http://www.airguns.net/images_reviews/xs_b18_2.jpg)
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I'm gonna email ARH and ask about the correct spring and seal I will need for the B18, I have broke down several chinese air rifles and put automotive type moly grease on the springs and not knowing any better put a dab of 3 in 1 oil in as chamber lube and on all other moving parts, since coming to this forum I have learned that the silicone oil is the way to go and I want to be sure I use the correct spring grease and apply it right if I'm able to find the parts I'm needing, being a big powder burner guy and since I been working on them all my life I just assumed that the same oils would be fine for the air rifles, I see now that I was wrong so I want to go back together with this little B18 the right way so it will shoot good and last, I think I bought this rifle back in 1999 if I remember right so I figure a new spring might serve it well along with the seal, I'd love to get the performance up as good as possible so I can get good results with the heavier .177 pellets, when I first got this rifle it would shoot completely through a soft white wood board that was 3/4" thick with the pointed Crosman pellets, I was very impressed and I killed several squirrels and many birds at up to 45-50 yards in some cases, it was very accurate and I even took several coons and Opossums and few few other country side pesky animals I cant mention here...LOL!
I figure the best way to make sure I get what I need is to just give ARH a call and get the right parts coming if they have them.
Thanks again for all the excellent advise and if anyone has anymore ideas on how I should go about getting this gun back in good as new or better condition please let me know, I'm all ears and wanting to learn all I can about doing this right.
Peace, texgunner
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The ARH Tarantula and E3650 springs work with the B18/19. The apex small seal is for the piston.
The Tarantula spring produces very good power, better than stock, but I have to state that I had two break in less than 2k shots. And that was in a gun that was fully cleaned up, honed, smoothed, and lubed. The 3650 produces less power but a nicer shot cycle. You'll probably need to shim the 3650
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The ARH Tarantula and E3650 springs work with the B18/19. The apex small seal is for the piston.
The Tarantula spring produces very good power, better than stock, but I have to state that I had two break in less than 2k shots. And that was in a gun that was fully cleaned up, honed, smoothed, and lubed. The 3650 produces less power but a nicer shot cycle. You'll probably need to shim the 3650
Thank you sir, I just ordered the Tarantula spring and the apex small seal, I didn't order any of the moly paste grease though, seems $8 is a bit much for a dab of moly grease, I have some high grade moly grease and I'm thinking I may take a dap out and mix in some dry graphite and use that for lubing the piston and outer edge of the seal, I do plan to purchase some high quality silicone oil for the chamber lube though since all I have and normally use on my PD rifles is 3 in One oil.
Looking forward to getting the new spring and seal, and thinking it may be necessary to shim the spring for best power, do you have any idea how much I may need to shim the spring, I noticed that Air Rifle Headquarters offers some shims and it seems like the .150 shim was recommended for the Tarantula & E3650 springs to get power up a bit, I have many tools and even a lathe and mill so I can make whatever I need pretty much, I guess I may have to experiment and see what I come up with, my next purchase will be a chrony so I will be able to tell what my results are,I want accuracy over raw power but I also want as much power as I can get and still be accurate from 30-50yds with around 10+ grain pellets in the .177, maybe I'm asking to much from this old china gun, but it will be fun tinkering to see what I can get from the old gal, in it's out of the box state, it was a real winner and hit harder than any air rifle I have ever owned as far as fps goes, my old Benji 342 & 347 and the old Sheridan 5mm/.20 silverstreak are good guns with plenty of terminal power out to a reasonable distance but the XS-B18 would out shoot all of them in the FPS category, hoping to get that back and maybe just a tad more with the better seal and spring, I'll be building a scope stop for the XS-B18 also, I haven't been able to keep a scope solid on it yet so I'll be using better mounts and I will either drill and tab the receiver and install a stop or I will make a stop and braze it to the receiver while I have the rifle apart so I can keep a scope solid on this rifle.
Thanks again for all the great advise and help
Peace, texgunner
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The ARH Tarantula and E3650 springs work with the B18/19. The apex small seal is for the piston.
The Tarantula spring produces very good power, better than stock, but I have to state that I had two break in less than 2k shots. And that was in a gun that was fully cleaned up, honed, smoothed, and lubed. The 3650 produces less power but a nicer shot cycle. You'll probably need to shim the 3650
Thank you sir, I just ordered the Tarantula spring and the apex small seal, I didn't order any of the moly paste grease though, seems $8 is a bit much for a dab of moly grease, I have some high grade moly grease and I'm thinking I may take a dap out and mix in some dry graphite and use that for lubing the piston and outer edge of the seal, I do plan to purchase some high quality silicone oil for the chamber lube though since all I have and normally use on my PD rifles is 3 in One oil.
Looking forward to getting the new spring and seal, and thinking it may be necessary to shim the spring for best power, do you have any idea how much I may need to shim the spring, I noticed that Air Rifle Headquarters offers some shims and it seems like the .150 shim was recommended for the Tarantula & E3650 springs to get power up a bit, I have many tools and even a lathe and mill so I can make whatever I need pretty much, I guess I may have to experiment and see what I come up with, my next purchase will be a chrony so I will be able to tell what my results are,I want accuracy over raw power but I also want as much power as I can get and still be accurate from 30-50yds with around 10+ grain pellets in the .177, maybe I'm asking to much from this old china gun, but it will be fun tinkering to see what I can get from the old gal, in it's out of the box state, it was a real winner and hit harder than any air rifle I have ever owned as far as fps goes, my old Benji 342 & 347 and the old Sheridan 5mm/.20 silverstreak are good guns with plenty of terminal power out to a reasonable distance but the XS-B18 would out shoot all of them in the FPS category, hoping to get that back and maybe just a tad more with the better seal and spring, I'll be building a scope stop for the XS-B18 also, I haven't been able to keep a scope solid on it yet so I'll be using better mounts and I will either drill and tab the receiver and install a stop or I will make a stop and braze it to the receiver while I have the rifle apart so I can keep a scope solid on this rifle.
Thanks again for all the great advise and help
Peace, texgunner
You don't need to lube the chamber with silicone oil at all, it will just cause strong detonation. Just use moly on the piston and all metal to metal contact points instead. The plain "moly" grease you get from the automotive or hardware store is just regular grease with a tiny bit of moly added. It is a poor choice for air rifles. The ARH moly is very high moly content grease and is far more effective.
A drop or two of silicone oil on the piston button will help when installing the new seal.
Check the lube guides in the GTA library for more detailed info.
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The ARH Tarantula and E3650 springs work with the B18/19. The apex small seal is for the piston.
The Tarantula spring produces very good power, better than stock, but I have to state that I had two break in less than 2k shots. And that was in a gun that was fully cleaned up, honed, smoothed, and lubed. The 3650 produces less power but a nicer shot cycle. You'll probably need to shim the 3650
Thank you sir, I just ordered the Tarantula spring and the apex small seal, I didn't order any of the moly paste grease though, seems $8 is a bit much for a dab of moly grease, I have some high grade moly grease and I'm thinking I may take a dap out and mix in some dry graphite and use that for lubing the piston and outer edge of the seal, I do plan to purchase some high quality silicone oil for the chamber lube though since all I have and normally use on my PD rifles is 3 in One oil.
Looking forward to getting the new spring and seal, and thinking it may be necessary to shim the spring for best power, do you have any idea how much I may need to shim the spring, I noticed that Air Rifle Headquarters offers some shims and it seems like the .150 shim was recommended for the Tarantula & E3650 springs to get power up a bit, I have many tools and even a lathe and mill so I can make whatever I need pretty much, I guess I may have to experiment and see what I come up with, my next purchase will be a chrony so I will be able to tell what my results are,I want accuracy over raw power but I also want as much power as I can get and still be accurate from 30-50yds with around 10+ grain pellets in the .177, maybe I'm asking to much from this old china gun, but it will be fun tinkering to see what I can get from the old gal, in it's out of the box state, it was a real winner and hit harder than any air rifle I have ever owned as far as fps goes, my old Benji 342 & 347 and the old Sheridan 5mm/.20 silverstreak are good guns with plenty of terminal power out to a reasonable distance but the XS-B18 would out shoot all of them in the FPS category, hoping to get that back and maybe just a tad more with the better seal and spring, I'll be building a scope stop for the XS-B18 also, I haven't been able to keep a scope solid on it yet so I'll be using better mounts and I will either drill and tab the receiver and install a stop or I will make a stop and braze it to the receiver while I have the rifle apart so I can keep a scope solid on this rifle.
Thanks again for all the great advise and help
Peace, texgunner
You don't need to lube the chamber with silicone oil at all, it will just cause strong detonation. Just use moly on the piston and all metal to metal contact points instead. The plain "moly" grease you get from the automotive or hardware store is just regular grease with a tiny bit of moly added. It is a poor choice for air rifles. The ARH moly is very high moly content grease and is far more effective.
Ok thank you for the great advice, im not new to air guns as far as using them but Im new to knowing the proper care of the springers so I really appreciate the advice about the grease, I can across a type of grease on ebay that has a high PTFE content that is recommended for springer air rifles also, just wondering if its as good as the moly paste....
Im gonna call first thing in the morning and have some moly paste added to my order so maybe Ill get the seal, spring and moly all at the same time.
Shan
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There's a "bundle" of moly, heavy tar, and clear tar. Everything you need to tune a springer and cheaper than buying each separately. You'll have enough to do multiple tunes.
Blue
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There's a "bundle" of moly, heavy tar, and clear tar. Everything you need to tune a springer and cheaper than buying each separately. You'll have enough to do multiple tunes.
Blue
Thanks for the heads up on the lube kit.
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Well got the b18 apart this evening after making a redneck compressor and here is what I found, wish I had known that the 3 in 1 oil was gonna ruin the rifles piston seal, I had noticed a steady power loss with this gun for a long time but had no idea it was in such bad condition, I have new seal and spring on the way and I just went back to Jim's site and ordered some heavy tar and some super moly paste, im gonna do some serious polishing to the piston and other internal parts, chamber is very smooth with a mirror finish so Im gonna leave it along and just make sure that everything that goes in it is just as slick and smooth as it is.
Im thinking this rifle will be better than it ever was after Im done with it.
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You're gonna be sooooo surprised when you get it back together!
If you haven't already, read Bob's springer tuning guide up in the library (or google CDT supertuning B-18). It's got all the details on what to polish, how much to polish, and what to polish it with while you've got it apart.
I was absolutely shocked at the difference with the first rifle I tuned at home.
Blue
p.s. BIG thanks to everyone here at the GTA for all the time, money, and frustration you've all saved me.
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You're gonna be sooooo surprised when you get it back together!
If you haven't already, read Bob's springer tuning guide up in the library (or google CDT supertuning B-18). It's got all the details on what to polish, how much to polish, and what to polish it with while you've got it apart.
I was absolutely shocked at the difference with the first rifle I tuned at home.
Blue
p.s. BIG thanks to everyone here at the GTA for all the time, money, and frustration you've all saved me.
Ditto......
And I'll check out the tuning guide.
Thanks a lot to everyone and I'll continue to keep this thread updated on my results.
Shan
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here are some pix of the seal, piston and spring I took out of the B18, also a pic of the make shift compressor I threw together to get it apart.
Also the original spring is 36 Coils with a .118 wire size & .540 ID, the New Tarantula Spring I ordered is 32 coils with a larger .128 wire size & .513 ID, so it seems that the new spring will probably be stronger than the factory China spring, if the total length of the Tarantula Spring is shorter than the original spring I'm wondering if I should shim it out to make up for the length difference...?
I have got to get a Chrony so I will know for sure what is happening with the velocity, I'm really hoping to end up with an accurate rifle shooting somewhere between 800-900 FPS with 8 grain pellets.
I also would like to shorten the travel on this B18 Trigger if possible so if anyone that reads this has any advice or a known good mod with these triggers I'd sure appreciate the info on it.
Shan
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Multiply the wire diam of the old spring by the number of coils to determine full compressed height, then do the same for the new spring. That will show how much spacing will be needed if any. I'd do it but short on time.
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Multiply the wire diam of the old spring by the number of coils to determine full compressed height, then do the same for the new spring. That will show how much spacing will be needed if any. I'd do it but short on time.
Thank you sir,
Using this formula, old spring figure is 3.27 and new spring figure is 4.00, a difference of ( 0.073 )
I can make a spacer for this small amount easily.
Thank you very much for the information Paul
Shan
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Multiply the wire diam of the old spring by the number of coils to determine full compressed height, then do the same for the new spring. That will show how much spacing will be needed if any. I'd do it but short on time.
Thank you sir,
Using this formula, old spring figure is 3.27 and new spring figure is 4.00, a difference of ( 0.073 )
I can make a spacer for this small amount easily.
Thank you very much for the information Paul
Shan
I believe that's a difference of .73 not .073... huge difference
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Multiply the wire diam of the old spring by the number of coils to determine full compressed height, then do the same for the new spring. That will show how much spacing will be needed if any. I'd do it but short on time.
Thank you sir,
Using this formula, old spring figure is 3.27 and new spring figure is 4.00, a difference of ( 0.073 )
I can make a spacer for this small amount easily.
Thank you very much for the information Paul
Shan
I believe that's a difference of .73 not .073... huge difference
Yes that is correct almost 3/4" about 11/16"
I can build a spacer to make up for that difference no problem.
Shan
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Obviously this spring isn't the right one for this B18 rifle but im gonna try to make it work if I can.
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The old spring is 4.24 the new spring is 4.096
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The old spring is 4.24 the new spring is 4.096
Your right Paul....not sure how I messed up but I hit something wrong on the calculator, probably doesnt help that I work 12 long nights and was about half asleep when I did my figuring.....lol!
Thank you very much for that correction, so I would roughly only need to space the spring 3/16" to have it be the same length as original unless the old spring has weakened and is actually shorter than it was when new, im thinking I may make a .125" spacer washer and see how that works.
Thanks again to all who have helped me out on this, I really do appreciate it.
Shan
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You sure got your moneys worth out of that old piston seal!
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Sorry!, It's me again,,,If I can ask you a question or two,Did you encounter an automatic rear safety when you pulled the plastic rear cap off, that needs screws to be removed in order to take it out?,,,,I
m still lookin',,,Hopefully one day soon, I'll find the info I need, Cheer's, and Thank's, Andy.
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You sure got your moneys worth out of that old piston seal!
LOL.....! You know how us southern country folk are, we don't waist nothin, and we always ride that ole mule out for all she's worth.....!
yes sir, that seal came out in multiple pieces, and as the old saying goes "it's harder than dicks hat band" just deteriorated all to pieces, i dont know how that thing was even shooting as long as it was, I was out at the range shooting nickel size groups with that rifle about 3 weeks ago at 15 & 20 yds, I have been noticing a power loss with it but I didn't realize just how bad it actually was, I pulled out the Crosman TR77 today and fired it and now I can for sure notice just how badly that B18 was shooting, it would shoot the lighter wad cutter lead pellet supersonic when it was new and put them completely through a soft white wood 3/4" board unless it hit close to a knot or hard spot in the wood, I'm gonna be tickled to get this ole gal hitting hard again and hoping the accuracy will still be there with the tune job I plan to do and the new spring.
Shan
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Sorry!, It's me again,,,If I can ask you a question or two,Did you encounter an automatic rear safety when you pulled the plastic rear cap off, that needs screws to be removed in order to take it out?,,,,I
m still lookin',,,Hopefully one day soon, I'll find the info I need, Cheer's, and Thank's, Andy.
No sir, the XS-B18 doesn't have an automatic safety, the safety is a lever that just flips back and forth in front of the trigger just like on my Crosman TR77, it has that same type trigger and safety set up as the XS-B18 rifles, hope the image below heps you to see what the XS-B18 trigger I have looks like and hope you get your issues with the QB18 worked out soon, sorry I dont remember exactly what the troubles you're having are but I'm sure someone here will be able to lend a hand at some point, You may try emailing Mike Melick and just ask him about your issues or maybe just send the rifle to him and let him do the fix and tune it up real nice for ya if he has the stuff for that rifle.
Best wishes sir, Shan
http://images.nitrosell.com/product_images/13/3058/large-crosman-trigger-unit.jpg (http://images.nitrosell.com/product_images/13/3058/large-crosman-trigger-unit.jpg)
(http://images.nitrosell.com/product_images/13/3058/large-crosman-trigger-unit.jpg)
I'm assuming that this is your gun here:
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/index.php?PHPSESSID=b62ed3c47477af91b387eb59ae6609ae&action=dlattach;topic=2893.0;attach=1320;image)
And this is your safety
(https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/images/01-02-08-safety.jpg)
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Yup, You got it,,,Any info, or experience with that variation?, Cheer's, Andy.
I'd love to send the gun to somebody, but finding a "tuner" up here is like looking for the proverbial needle, And sending it down to the states(worst case scenerio)could end up being confiscated by C Customs, There would need to be a lot of accompanying paper work all saying that its 500fps max, but who knows what pellet they would use to test, So, It doesn't seem worth it, going through all that crappolla anyways, I know the gun would come back shooting like a dream, Oh Well, I'll just have to keep my eyes peeled for anyone I can send it to. Cheer's, and Thank's for all of your help, and understanding, Andy.
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You're very welcome Andy, I wish I could help you out my friend, its a bad thing the government has messed things up so bad for y'all up there, we been fighting like h@ll to stop ours from doing the same to us........
Best wishes a keep me posted on any and all progress you have with it, pm me or just put the update right here on my thread and that will be just fine with me.
Shan
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The old spring is 4.24 the new spring is 4.096
Your right Paul....not sure how I messed up but I hit something wrong on the calculator, probably doesnt help that I work 12 long nights and was about half asleep when I did my figuring.....lol!
Thank you very much for that correction, so I would roughly only need to space the spring 3/16" to have it be the same length as original unless the old spring has weakened and is actually shorter than it was when new, im thinking I may make a .125" spacer washer and see how that works.
Thanks again to all who have helped me out on this, I really do appreciate it.
Shan
Not a problem, just trying to help ya avoid any headache if I see one comin.
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Thanks Paul, I always appreciate a good heads up when I've made a mistake or about to possibly make one.
I got the new Tarantula Spring & new Seal in the mail day before yesterday, the new spring is close to 1 1/2" longer than the original spring that came out of my rifle, and it is much stiffer than the original spring also, my old spring has an area about three inches long that is somewhat collapsed because the coils are way closer together than the coils are just a few inches down the spring, so I'm thinking that much of the difference in length between the two spring is due to the old one being partially collapsed in a 4" section of it.
I'm studying in my head on what I will due to fix another issue I found when I took the B18 apart, the small roller that is on that small pin on the cocking arm than rolls against the rifle stock when it is cocked was broken in two pieces and just fell out when I removed the action from the stock, not sure what I will do about that yet, but I know I can fix something up to replace it with a little engineering, sure wish I could just stick another new plastic roller on there and be done with it though...
Thanks again Paul
Shan
The old spring is 4.24 the new spring is 4.096
Your right Paul....not sure how I messed up but I hit something wrong on the calculator, probably doesnt help that I work 12 long nights and was about half asleep when I did my figuring.....lol!
Thank you very much for that correction, so I would roughly only need to space the spring 3/16" to have it be the same length as original unless the old spring has weakened and is actually shorter than it was when new, im thinking I may make a .125" spacer washer and see how that works.
Thanks again to all who have helped me out on this, I really do appreciate it.
Shan
Not a problem, just trying to help ya avoid any headache if I see one comin.
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I'm just spitballing early in the morning here but you might have luck finding replacement parts (the broken roller bit) from Crosman.
Since they use the B-18 as a base for some (a lot?) of their rifles you might be able to order it from them. Look through their diagrams and parts lists, or maybe post the question specifically in the Crosman Gate asking for the specific part number.
I have heard that as long as you know the part number, ordering from Crosman is easy and inexpensive.
Blue
p.s. Has the new spring been set yet? If it hasn't been compresses before, it may seem longer than it will end up once it gets cycled a few times. I remember seeing replacement springs at one time that you could have pre-set so (I think) installation was easier. I haven't been down the replacement spring rabbit hole yet so please excuse me if I am mistaken.
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I'm just spitballing early in the morning here but you might have luck finding replacement parts (the broken roller bit) from Crosman.
Since they use the B-18 as a base for some (a lot?) of their rifles you might be able to order it from them. Look through their diagrams and parts lists, or maybe post the question specifically in the Crosman Gate asking for the specific part number.
I have heard that as long as you know the part number, ordering from Crosman is easy and inexpensive.
Blue
p.s. Has the new spring been set yet? If it hasn't been compresses before, it may seem longer than it will end up once it gets cycled a few times. I remember seeing replacement springs at one time that you could have pre-set so (I think) installation was easier. I haven't been down the replacement spring rabbit hole yet so please excuse me if I am mistaken.
I never thought about checking out the Crosman part # for a possible replacement roller, I'll have to look at it a bit closer but it seems that mine was installed over the axle pin and then the end of it was flared out to prevent it from sliding off, not sure how I would get a new roller over that pin without removing the flare with dremel tool and then keeping the new roller from coming oof the pin while in use, I'll check it out a bit closer and then when I have a chance I'll take a couple pix of the broken roller and the pin it rolls on and I'll post them.
I know the Crosman Quest looks almost Identical to the XS-B18 and probably basically is so maybe it uses the same roller, I'll do a bit of digging and see what I come up with on that, Thanks for the idea and the Crosman part..... that gave me a big DUH........! moment. LOL!
Never heard of setting the spring as you mentioned but then again for me to not hear of many things related to the springer air guns is not unusual since repair to them and mods are fairly new to me on the springer guns, I have dabbled with them and had several of them apart over the years to replace leather seals in some of the old chinese models and I have replaced a few springs in them, but I never got into the mods other than some shims and and just polishing the internals for smoother operation, but I can see how what you say could be the case to an extent, because once the spring is under full tension a few times it is bound to settle in a bit from where it is when never being compressed before, the preload on the Tarantula spring I have will be pretty high to begin with no doubt but I'm sure it will settle in and be very strong in my rifle based on the fact that it is 0.010 larger wire size than the original and I can tell by just handling the two that it is a much stronger spring, very rigid and stiff, the old spring can be compressed some just in my hand and its a bit floppy feeling compared to the Tarantula Spring.
Thanks Again Blue
Shan
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Did some looking and it seems that I was right about the roller being a permanent item on the cocking lever, so I will call Crosman and try to order a new lever from Crosman, I found the part # B18-07-00 it is the same part on the Quest 800, Quest 1000, & Storm 1000 and I'm sure a few others also, so if it isn't to high I will just order a new arm and be done with it.
Shan
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Just wanted to post an update and say that I finally had time time get the XS- B18 rebuilt today, Tarrantula spring and seal installed along with everything deburred and well polished, chamber honed heavy tar on spring and the good moly lube on seal and a good thin coating on piston, haven't done and work on the trigger yet but it is stronger and smoother firing than it has ever been, cant wait to put a couple hundred rounds through it and then see what the accuracy is gonna be like.
I think im gonna be really happy with this rifle when its all said and done.
Shan
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how did the b18 come out? we are due for an update...
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how did the b18 come out? we are due for an update...
I know this is an old thread and hasn't had a post in several months, but I have not been on here in a while either so since I seen this request for an update I wanted to give it.
Short and sweet update is that the XB-18 is an excellent shooter now, super accurate and hit like a freight train, I am very impressed with how this little rifle performs after installing the Tarantula Spring and new seal, the tar on the spring made this rifle so quiet and smooth, very happy with the results.
Peace, Shan