GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Daisy Airguns => Topic started by: EdinGa on December 24, 2022, 02:48:15 PM
-
Who else thinks Daisy needs to offer a Daisy 35R? R being rifled barrel. I know they have the 901 and the 880 but I absolutely love my 35s and I would by another one in a heartbeat if it had a rifled barrel.
-
What am I missing about the 35? People seem to love it but I'm not sure why. Is it because it's a single pump?
Can you not switch out the barrel with one from an 880?
-
What am I missing about the 35? People seem to love it but I'm not sure why. Is it because it's a single pump?
Can you not switch out the barrel with one from an 880?
It's a multipump, makes decent power and it's a solid little gun. You can switch the barrel, but I have too many mods going as it is.
-
The PowerLine 35 ended my quest for a very accurate (and powerful and inexpensive) BB rifle. Is there any other smoothbore multi-pump out there? I bought two of the pink camo versions for about $18 each on sale from Amazon a few years back. I gave one of them away and now regret it. I might paint the stock on the one I kept...
-
@edinga ahhh I see it's a multi pump. I hear ya about the mods!!
-
The PowerLine 35 ended my quest for a very accurate (and powerful and inexpensive) BB rifle. Is there any other smoothbore multi-pump out there? I bought two of the pink camo versions for about $18 each on sale from Amazon a few years back. I gave one of them away and now regret it. I might paint the stock on the one I kept...
I have 2 already and I refuse to mod them. If there is a more perfect BB plinker, I don't know what it is. Daisy Precision Max BBs continually astonish me with the accuracy they produce in both of mine. My wife quickly claimed the first one I bought, so I made it hers and ordered another one. I just bought my 3rd and will be ordering the 880 barrel for it.
-
Who else thinks Daisy needs to offer a Daisy 35R? R being rifled barrel. I know they have the 901 and the 880 but I absolutely love my 35s and I would by another one in a heartbeat if it had a rifled barrel.
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
This is my second one I've done.
(http://i.imgur.com/e1HDOf1.jpg) (https://imgur.com/e1HDOf1)
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
-
I've been studying that thread. I just ordered the camo version and I have big plans for it.
-
Who else thinks Daisy needs to offer a Daisy 35R? R being rifled barrel. I know they have the 901 and the 880 but I absolutely love my 35s and I would by another one in a heartbeat if it had a rifled barrel.
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
This is my second one I've done.
(http://i.imgur.com/e1HDOf1.jpg) (https://imgur.com/e1HDOf1)
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
What LDC is that? I like how it doesn't add too much length.
-
Just a question but if you cut the breach side of the barrel is there a need to recrown?
Is there a difference in the pump mechanism from the 880?
I don't have a 35 so just curious.
-
Just a question but if you cut the breach side of the barrel is there a need to recrown?
Is there a difference in the pump mechanism from the 880?
I don't have a 35 so just curious.
I'm not sure but I'm interested. I've got plans to turn my new one into an indoor silent pellet shooter.
-
As far as cutting the breech end, I believe the barrel is press fit into the valve. I wouldn't want to mess up where I put the pellet in.
Trimming the the crown end and then recrowning seems simpler to me.
The LDC came from Geo, once upon a time.
The 880 comes with the valve, trigger, and aluminum pump tube. There's a difference in the length of the tube as I recall.
I switch pump tubes, keeping the 35 tube on the gun. Here ya go! Here's who I followed!
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0)
-
I got my camo 35 in and converted it. I decided to leave the barrel alone and bored out the front sight assembly instead. I did the tape mod to be a force fit inside the Buck-Rail adapter and it seems to be working well. I'm not having any issues hitting my 15 yard spinners, but I need to tear it back down and work on the trigger before I do any real accuracy testing. It's making 6.6 fpe on 10 pumps and 7.3 on 12 with RWS Supermags.
-
I got my camo 35 in and converted it. I decided to leave the barrel alone and bored out the front sight assembly instead. I did the tape mod to be a force fit inside the Buck-Rail adapter and it seems to be working well. I'm not having any issues hitting my 15 yard spinners, but I need to tear it back down and work on the trigger before I do any real accuracy testing. It's making 6.6 fpe on 10 pumps and 7.3 on 12 with RWS Supermags.
It'll make quite a difference in that trigger if you remove that little silver flat lawyer spring. ;D jmho
and, looking good!
-
I got my camo 35 in and converted it. I decided to leave the barrel alone and bored out the front sight assembly instead. I did the tape mod to be a force fit inside the Buck-Rail adapter and it seems to be working well. I'm not having any issues hitting my 15 yard spinners, but I need to tear it back down and work on the trigger before I do any real accuracy testing. It's making 6.6 fpe on 10 pumps and 7.3 on 12 with RWS Supermags.
It'll make quite a difference in that trigger if you remove that little silver flat lawyer spring. ;D jmho
and, looking good!
That's my plan and I'm going to do the Credit card mod. This thing is a blast. I've got a couple of other goodies coming for it too.
-
the conversion took literally 15 mins from dissasembly to shooting. The barrel is pressure fitted and the easiest way to cut is with a pipe cutter. lay it next to the original, mark it and cut. maybe 8 turns. recrowns with a screw head and polishing compound. cleane up with 0000 steel wool. it was accurate with bbs... but now is a laser with pellets.
-
the conversion took literally 15 mins from dissasembly to shooting. The barrel is pressure fitted and the easiest way to cut is with a pipe cutter. lay it next to the original, mark it and cut. maybe 8 turns. recrowns with a screw head and polishing compound. cleane up with 0000 steel wool. it was accurate with bbs... but now is a laser with pellets.
I decided it might be nice to have a few extra fps with the longer barrel so I didn't cut it. It's shooting great with pellets as far as a can tell with this atrocious trigger. I'm going to take it apart again as soon as I have time and do the trigger mods.
-
I snuck outside for a few minutes to snipe some sweetgum balls and found out that this Daisy barrel likes 10.3 Knockouts too. It's shooting them at 550 fps on 12 pumps.
-
At the risk of becoming annoying, I'm in love with this 35r. It's a rainy day here in Georgia and I've been sitting on the front porch plinking sweetgum balls out of the trees in the front yard. It's a laser with Daisy HPs and as soon as I get a little longer scope it will be upgraded from the red dot.
Many thanks to those that came before me and made this mod possible for the rest of us to enjoy.
-
At the risk of becoming annoying, I'm in love with this 35r. It's a rainy day here in Georgia and I've been sitting on the front porch plinking sweetgum balls out of the trees in the front yard. It's a laser with Daisy HPs and as soon as I get a little longer scope it will be upgraded from the red dot.
Many thanks to those that came before me and made this mod possible for the rest of us to enjoy.
Stonykill is the man for coming up with it.
You sound as pleased with it as I am.
My first one took a chipmunk off the front step with one pump. My wife's container garden was out there.
The living room window is at a right angle to the kitchen stone steps he was living under. So I left the window open a crack. Nailed him from 2 yards away, in one ear and out the other. 8) 8)
-
I have a question about over pumping. This thing really likes RWS Supernags at 12 pumps. We're talking nickel size groups at 20 yards with a red dot. Am I going to hurt anything going to 12? I've got a scope coming for it but don't have anything that really fits it well at the moment. I'll do some better testing when it gets here.
-
I have a question about over pumping. This thing really likes RWS Supernags at 12 pumps. We're talking nickel size groups at 20 yards with a red dot. Am I going to hurt anything going to 12? I've got a scope coming for it but don't have anything that really fits it well at the moment. I'll do some better testing when it gets here.
I seriously doubt 12 pumps will hurt anything. The weak link is the abutment pin. I think the 35 uses the same abutment pin as the 880. If so, I have slightly bent them at 20 pumps. If you don't want to worry about it you can get a piece of 1/8" oil hardened drill rod and cut it to the same length as the factory pin. It works really well and has held up in my 1977 to twenty pumps for over 600 rounds. For that matter you can use a cutoff wheel in a Dremel and cut the shank off to length of a 1/8" drill bit. If you do that, I would believe you would be safe to pump as much as you want, but valve lock would be your next issue if the pump can build that much pressure. If you hit 10 FPE I might have to get one to tinker with. I have a couple extra rifled 880 barrels looking for a home.
-
I have a question about over pumping. This thing really likes RWS Supernags at 12 pumps. We're talking nickel size groups at 20 yards with a red dot. Am I going to hurt anything going to 12? I've got a scope coming for it but don't have anything that really fits it well at the moment. I'll do some better testing when it gets here.
I seriously doubt 12 pumps will hurt anything. The weak link is the abutment pin. I think the 35 uses the same abutment pin as the 880. If so, I have slightly bent them at 20 pumps. If you don't want to worry about it you can get a piece of 1/8" oil hardened drill rod and cut it to the same length as the factory pin. It works really well and has held up in my 1977 to twenty pumps for over 600 rounds. For that matter you can use a cutoff wheel in a Dremel and cut the shank off to length of a 1/8" drill bit. If you do that, I would believe you would be safe to pump as much as you want, but valve lock would be your next issue if the pump can build that much pressure. If you hit 12 FPE I will have to get one to tinker with.
Thanks! It's mainly going to be a pinker, so I don't need more power than the 7 fpe I'm getting. The only reason I went to 12 was the groups kept getting tighter the more pumps I put in it. I was getting flyers at 10 but none at 12 so I stopped there.
I've got a lot more pellets to test, but I'm going to hold off until the scope gets here.
-
I bet one of Ron's trigger mods would be nice in a 35 also.
-
I bet one of Ron's trigger mods would be nice in a 35 also.
I took the lawyer spring out of mine but I didn't have a credit card that was thin enough to do that mod. Just removing the flat spring made a huge difference though. I'll have to look up Ron's mods.
-
Check this topic out.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=189250.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=189250.0)
-
I have several of these installed on all my 880s and 822. Very NICE!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234217993302?hash=item36887af456:g:-qAAAOSwoz5hWvbg&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoC0FOAA%2FiiTMGglTsqTvIDzSIp67Yf7nur5DHkZX4BrjD6MKcyH23UpGfxwl9tzUUBVCSrH5ahxhkX1NUJK%2Fnoy9LB%2BZae3ppvfzFZlDEYjlfqgmeVfU3HcNWnkgO%2B%2FWf%2FQ6kyxAGtsCcXajowwkg2uLpZfZjyA8dL4CGLvRpN0nKNc1TAtQN%2F%2FrJ44XTfE5LRTEDBF1h%2FWcUfQKI4QA3y4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Tj4KywYQ (https://www.ebay.com/itm/234217993302?hash=item36887af456:g:-qAAAOSwoz5hWvbg&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoC0FOAA%2FiiTMGglTsqTvIDzSIp67Yf7nur5DHkZX4BrjD6MKcyH23UpGfxwl9tzUUBVCSrH5ahxhkX1NUJK%2Fnoy9LB%2BZae3ppvfzFZlDEYjlfqgmeVfU3HcNWnkgO%2B%2FWf%2FQ6kyxAGtsCcXajowwkg2uLpZfZjyA8dL4CGLvRpN0nKNc1TAtQN%2F%2FrJ44XTfE5LRTEDBF1h%2FWcUfQKI4QA3y4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Tj4KywYQ)
-
I second that on Ron's triggers!
-
I have a question about over pumping. This thing really likes RWS Supernags at 12 pumps. We're talking nickel size groups at 20 yards with a red dot. Am I going to hurt anything going to 12? I've got a scope coming for it but don't have anything that really fits it well at the moment. I'll do some better testing when it gets here.
I seriously doubt 12 pumps will hurt anything. The weak link is the abutment pin. I think the 35 uses the same abutment pin as the 880. If so, I have slightly bent them at 20 pumps. If you don't want to worry about it you can get a piece of 1/8" oil hardened drill rod and cut it to the same length as the factory pin. It works really well and has held up in my 1977 to twenty pumps for over 600 rounds. For that matter you can use a cutoff wheel in a Dremel and cut the shank off to length of a 1/8" drill bit. If you do that, I would believe you would be safe to pump as much as you want, but valve lock would be your next issue if the pump can build that much pressure. If you hit 10 FPE I might have to get one to tinker with. I have a couple extra rifled 880 barrels looking for a home.
I took it to 15 pumps with crosman 10.5s (heaviest .177s I have) and got 7.76 fpe. I'm not going to tear it back down until my other parts get here and I'll upgrade the abutment pin then.
-
I got tracking on the carbon fiber tubes I need to finish this build and it looks like it's going to be the middle of February. :'( Oh well, I want this thing to be all that it can be so I guess there's no sense in rushing it.
-
I got tracking on the carbon fiber tubes I need to finish this build and it looks like it's going to be the middle of February. :'( Oh well, I want this thing to be all that it can be so I guess there's no sense in rushing it.
Whats the tubing for?
-
I got tracking on the carbon fiber tubes I need to finish this build and it looks like it's going to be the middle of February. :'( Oh well, I want this thing to be all that it can be so I guess there's no sense in rushing it.
Whats the tubing for?
I'm going to delete the front sight assembly. I'm going to try to fit a 10x8mm over the barrel and then slide a 12x10mm over it to match the diameter of the shroud exit.
-
I've done the carbon fiber shroud mod to a 1977. You may need to lightly sand the inner tube to fit in the outer tube. You may also need to sand the bottom of the tube as it approaches the valvebody so it does not wedge between the barrel and frame. I had to sand a pretty good flat on the cf shroud before it would slide on the frame without wedging. You will also need to figure out a good way to attach the cf shroud to the frame. I bedded the cf shroud to the front bracket on my 1977 that uses a handguard mod. I have not devised a way to do it yet with the factory forearms. I tried a screw through the frame to a nut epoxied to the cf shroud but that wasn't strong enough. I have a few ideas but I have too many projects ahead of that one.
-
I've done the carbon fiber shroud mod to a 1977. You may need to lightly sand the inner tube to fit in the outer tube. You may also need to sand the bottom of the tube as it approaches the valvebody so it does not wedge between the barrel and frame. I had to sand a pretty good flat on the cf shroud before it would slide on the frame without wedging. You will also need to figure out a good way to attach the cf shroud to the frame. I bedded the cf shroud to the front bracket on my 1977 that uses a handguard mod. I have not devised a way to do it yet with the factory forearms. I tried a screw through the frame to a nut epoxied to the cf shroud but that wasn't strong enough. I have a few ideas but I have too many projects ahead of that one.
It's definitely going to be a tight fit. I have a couple of ideas that may or may not work. We'll see when the tubes get here. I'll post updates.
-
I've done the carbon fiber shroud mod to a 1977. You may need to lightly sand the inner tube to fit in the outer tube. You may also need to sand the bottom of the tube as it approaches the valvebody so it does not wedge between the barrel and frame. I had to sand a pretty good flat on the cf shroud before it would slide on the frame without wedging. You will also need to figure out a good way to attach the cf shroud to the frame. I bedded the cf shroud to the front bracket on my 1977 that uses a handguard mod. I have not devised a way to do it yet with the factory forearms. I tried a screw through the frame to a nut epoxied to the cf shroud but that wasn't strong enough. I have a few ideas but I have too many projects ahead of that one.
Do all 35s have this barrel support? All of mine a fairly new, so I was just wondering if it's a new thing. I'm thinking about running the carbon fiber tube to this point and stopping.
-
I've read some complain about how short the 35's stock is. Will an 880 stock fit? Is it plug and play or will it require some tinkering? Edinga has got me curious about these. I'd do the 880 barrel swap.
-
I've read some complain about how short the 35's stock is. Will an 880 stock fit? Is it plug and play or will it require some tinkering? Edinga has got me curious about these. I'd do the 880 barrel swap.
I am 5'-10" tall and the 35's stock is good for me.
-
I've read some complain about how short the 35's stock is. Will an 880 stock fit? Is it plug and play or will it require some tinkering? Edinga has got me curious about these. I'd do the 880 barrel swap.
I am 5'-10" tall and the 35's stock is good for me.
Yes a 880 stock should fit, without tinkering.
-
I'm 6'1 and I don't have any issues with the 35 stock. If you use a compact scope, you have to mount it pretty far forward because of the short rail and the loading port so that helps too.
-
I've read some complain about how short the 35's stock is. Will an 880 stock fit? Is it plug and play or will it require some tinkering? Edinga has got me curious about these. I'd do the 880 barrel swap.
It does have a significantly shorter LOP than a full size rifle, but I also have no problem with it, at 6'0 with long arms. I think it's because it's so light that balance doesn't really matter.
-
Anyone have the parts diagram for the 35 handy? I'm wondering if @pblawler PBL power mod will work on the 35 also???
-
I called. Here it is. FYI
-
I called. Here it is. FYI
Thank you!
-
Anyone have the parts diagram for the 35 handy? I'm wondering if @pblawler PBL power mod will work on the 35 also???
Unfortunately not. The 35 uses a different type of piston and rod. I do wonder if I could design a higher compression piston and 3d print it, and it work. I'll add that to the list of things to try lol. Material selection is gonna be important. Not sure if ABS will work. Maybe ABS with acetone treatment. If so the piston will need a week or two to cure out after acetone vapor treatment.
-
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
...
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
Wendell,
I've read the barrel in a 35 (and probably most Daisies) is "press-fit." Does the barrel come out easily? Need heat? Just pull and twist gently? I'm liking my stock 35 as a smoothbore bb repeater popping tin cans, but there's always the urge to tinker... Thanks.
-
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
...
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
Wendell,
I've read the barrel in a 35 (and probably most Daisies) is "press-fit." Does the barrel come out easily? Need heat? Just pull and twist gently? I'm liking my stock 35 as a smoothbore bb repeater popping tin cans, but there's always the urge to tinker... Thanks.
Be careful. I have 2 that are smoothbores and I won't mod them. I bought a third one to mod. ;D
-
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
...
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
Wendell,
I've read the barrel in a 35 (and probably most Daisies) is "press-fit." Does the barrel come out easily? Need heat? Just pull and twist gently? I'm liking my stock 35 as a smoothbore bb repeater popping tin cans, but there's always the urge to tinker... Thanks.
It is pressed.in. Use a heat gun or torch to lightly heat (no where near red). Then a firm smack on the valvebody with a piece of wood while holding the barrel and it'll pop out.
-
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
...
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
Wendell,
I've read the barrel in a 35 (and probably most Daisies) is "press-fit." Does the barrel come out easily? Need heat? Just pull and twist gently? I'm liking my stock 35 as a smoothbore bb repeater popping tin cans, but there's always the urge to tinker... Thanks.
It is pressed.in. Use a heat gun or torch to lightly heat (no where near red). Then a firm smack on the valvebody with a piece of wood while holding the barrel and it'll pop out.
Excellent! Thanks for the method.
-
Finally got a chance to install the carbon fiber barrel stiffener. I'm using a 10x8mm over the barrel and then a 12x10mm over it. Since I'm still running the full length 880 barrel, I extended the inner tube to the end so it slips through the Buck-Rail adapter for a nice, snug fit. It extends into the moderator but it's still very quiet. I'm still trying to decide how to fill the gap where the front sight assembly was. I didn't get it put together until after dark and it's raining so I'll try to see if accuracy improved tomorrow.
-
It's raining again today, but front porch plinking at sweetgum balls says accuracy is at least as good as before. Maybe I can get it on paper tomorrow.
-
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
...
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
Wendell,
I've read the barrel in a 35 (and probably most Daisies) is "press-fit." Does the barrel come out easily? Need heat? Just pull and twist gently? I'm liking my stock 35 as a smoothbore bb repeater popping tin cans, but there's always the urge to tinker... Thanks.
It is pressed.in. Use a heat gun or torch to lightly heat (no where near red). Then a firm smack on the valvebody with a piece of wood while holding the barrel and it'll pop out.
Excellent! Thanks for the method.
Don't know why you'd take it apart...when you order the rifled 880 barrel from Daisy it comes with the valve/trigger group attached.
That's why after cropping and recrowning the end of the barrel I called it "drop in'... jmho
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0)
-
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
...
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
Wendell,
I've read the barrel in a 35 (and probably most Daisies) is "press-fit." Does the barrel come out easily? Need heat? Just pull and twist gently? I'm liking my stock 35 as a smoothbore bb repeater popping tin cans, but there's always the urge to tinker... Thanks.
It is pressed.in. Use a heat gun or torch to lightly heat (no where near red). Then a firm smack on the valvebody with a piece of wood while holding the barrel and it'll pop out.
Excellent! Thanks for the method.
Don't know why you'd take it apart...when you order the rifled 880 barrel from Daisy it comes with the valve/trigger group attached.
That's why after cropping and recrowning the end of the barrel I called it "drop in'... jmho
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0)
Because I don't want the 35 barrel or an 880 barrel.
After a few readings, I figured out your drop-in barrel, was a drop-in barrel/valve/trigger assembly, which isn't what I want. But figured someone reading this thread could most likely tell me how to swap out just the barrel, if possible, without destroying the valve part. Just the same, I will probably order an extra 880 (or 35) barrel assy in case I do manage to muck it up. Daisy parts are gloriously affordable!
-
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
...
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
Wendell,
I've read the barrel in a 35 (and probably most Daisies) is "press-fit." Does the barrel come out easily? Need heat? Just pull and twist gently? I'm liking my stock 35 as a smoothbore bb repeater popping tin cans, but there's always the urge to tinker... Thanks.
It is pressed.in. Use a heat gun or torch to lightly heat (no where near red). Then a firm smack on the valvebody with a piece of wood while holding the barrel and it'll pop out.
Excellent! Thanks for the method.
Don't know why you'd take it apart...when you order the rifled 880 barrel from Daisy it comes with the valve/trigger group attached.
That's why after cropping and recrowning the end of the barrel I called it "drop in'... jmho
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0)
Because I don't want the 35 barrel or an 880 barrel.
After a few readings, I figured out your drop-in barrel, was a drop-in barrel/valve/trigger assembly, which isn't what I want. But figured someone reading this thread could most likely tell me how to swap out just the barrel, if possible, without destroying the valve part. Just the same, I will probably order an extra 880 (or 35) barrel assy in case I do manage to muck it up. Daisy parts are gloriously affordable!
Take the compression tube off the vb. Heat up the vb where the barrel inserts but not to much. No where near getting red. Then give it a slight whack with a piece of wood on the vb where the compression tube slides on while holding the barrel. It will pop right off. Cut the other barrel off the same length as the factory barrel at the breach end. File off any cut marks and slide it into the valvebody and apply a light coat of JB Weld. Wait 24 hrs and then reassemble. I've done this a couple times on a 1977, 922, and an 880. If my FX 25 cal barrel ever ships ill be doing it again on a 1977.
-
The 880 rifled barrel is drop in after removing a couple inches off the barrel and recrowning!!
When you order it comes with the valve and trigger assembled SAME as 880. Measure/compare lengths of old versus new then cut/recrown!
...
Under the Bold Heading at the Top of Daisy Gate......Stonykill was the first I had ever heard doing it.
Wendell,
I've read the barrel in a 35 (and probably most Daisies) is "press-fit." Does the barrel come out easily? Need heat? Just pull and twist gently? I'm liking my stock 35 as a smoothbore bb repeater popping tin cans, but there's always the urge to tinker... Thanks.
It is pressed.in. Use a heat gun or torch to lightly heat (no where near red). Then a firm smack on the valvebody with a piece of wood while holding the barrel and it'll pop out.
Excellent! Thanks for the method.
Don't know why you'd take it apart...when you order the rifled 880 barrel from Daisy it comes with the valve/trigger group attached.
That's why after cropping and recrowning the end of the barrel I called it "drop in'... jmho
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=81383.0)
Because I don't want the 35 barrel or an 880 barrel.
After a few readings, I figured out your drop-in barrel, was a drop-in barrel/valve/trigger assembly, which isn't what I want. But figured someone reading this thread could most likely tell me how to swap out just the barrel, if possible, without destroying the valve part. Just the same, I will probably order an extra 880 (or 35) barrel assy in case I do manage to muck it up. Daisy parts are gloriously affordable!
okay, got it.
-
@matchstickshooter what barrel are you going to put in it?
-
@matchstickshooter what barrel are you going to put in it?
wasn't me
-
Sorry
@torquemaster what kind of barrel you looking to put in your 35?
-
Sorry
@torquemaster what kind of barrel you looking to put in your 35?
Shhh! It's a secret!
Ok, I thought I'd try a Daisy 499B barrel, or 2 of them concatenated, to see if I can get satisfactory BB precision at 25 yards or beyond. It's pretty good with the stock barrel, but still some wild fliers I'd like to try to eliminate.
-
Sorry
@torquemaster what kind of barrel you looking to put in your 35?
Shhh! It's a secret!
Ok, I thought I'd try a Daisy 499B barrel, or 2 of them concatenated, to see if I can get satisfactory BB precision at 25 yards or beyond. It's pretty good with the stock barrel, but still some wild fliers I'd like to try to eliminate.
Are you familiar with Black Barrel Customs on YouTube? He's using carbon fiber shot tubes in Red Ryders. Might be doable in a 35.
-
It was pretty windy here today but my best 25 yard group was with RWS Supermags at 9 pumps. I really need to tear this thing apart again and do some more trigger work.
-
Sorry
@torquemaster what kind of barrel you looking to put in your 35?
Shhh! It's a secret!
Ok, I thought I'd try a Daisy 499B barrel, or 2 of them concatenated, to see if I can get satisfactory BB precision at 25 yards or beyond. It's pretty good with the stock barrel, but still some wild fliers I'd like to try to eliminate.
Are you familiar with Black Barrel Customs on YouTube? He's using carbon fiber shot tubes in Red Ryders. Might be doable in a 35.
I have not but will, thank you! I looked into CF tubes for a different project, hadn't considered them for this. This particular manufacturer held ID to +0.002 / -0.000, so a 4.5mm tube would be 0.177xx to 0.179xx. I measured Daisy Avanti's from .1738 to .1751, so wow, that could work...
-
Sorry
@torquemaster what kind of barrel you looking to put in your 35?
Shhh! It's a secret!
Ok, I thought I'd try a Daisy 499B barrel, or 2 of them concatenated, to see if I can get satisfactory BB precision at 25 yards or beyond. It's pretty good with the stock barrel, but still some wild fliers I'd like to try to eliminate.
Are you familiar with Black Barrel Customs on YouTube? He's using carbon fiber shot tubes in Red Ryders. Might be doable in a 35.
I have not but will, thank you! I looked into CF tubes for a different project, hadn't considered them for this. This particular manufacturer held ID to +0.002 / -0.000, so a 4.5mm tube would be 0.177xx to 0.179xx. I measured Daisy Avanti's from .1738 to .1751, so wow, that could work...
https://youtu.be/vTLiZ5JRqos
-
Sorry
@torquemaster what kind of barrel you looking to put in your 35?
Shhh! It's a secret!
Ok, I thought I'd try a Daisy 499B barrel, or 2 of them concatenated, to see if I can get satisfactory BB precision at 25 yards or beyond. It's pretty good with the stock barrel, but still some wild fliers I'd like to try to eliminate.
Are you familiar with Black Barrel Customs on YouTube? He's using carbon fiber shot tubes in Red Ryders. Might be doable in a 35.
I have not but will, thank you! I looked into CF tubes for a different project, hadn't considered them for this. This particular manufacturer held ID to +0.002 / -0.000, so a 4.5mm tube would be 0.177xx to 0.179xx. I measured Daisy Avanti's from .1738 to .1751, so wow, that could work...
https://youtu.be/vTLiZ5JRqos
Thanks! I went down that rabbit hole -- Best I can tell he's using a 17/64" OD shot tube (he said .265 in comments) which leads me to believe it's an english 11/64" ID shot tube (0.171875) At -0.000 / +0.002, from my measurements, only regular Daisy BBs would reliably not get stuck. Every other brand is large enough on their high side that some won't fit. Maybe he's sanding it out to a larger ID? I may yet try 4.5mm ID though.
Thanks for the links!
-
Daisy 35 Parts
Contacted Daisy and the response was "We no longer have parts for the Model 35." They sent me a 2019 Exploded Parts Diagram, but it does not have Daisy part numbers, only part names.
I found a Daisy 35 parts list from 2014 somewhere on the 'net, which does have Daisy part numbers.
The "Valve body and shot tube" is 169437-000.
The current 880 "Valve Body / Trigger / BBL Assembly" is also 169437-000.
Curious if the Model 35 started out rifled, then revised to smoothbore with a shorter barrel??? Any Daisy 35 historians out there? Thanks.
-
I believe the 35 is a derivative of the 840 series (smooth bore SSP). i dont ever remember it being rifled, but since cutting and replacing the barrel was an option, i never went back. By the way, it was less accurate with BBs than say a RR... and i think it was because they shot the BB too fast. Mine with pellets now will easily hit a quarter at 25 yards with every shot.
-
I believe the 35 is a derivative of the 840 series (smooth bore SSP). i dont ever remember it being rifled, but since cutting and replacing the barrel was an option, i never went back. By the way, it was less accurate with BBs than say a RR... and i think it was because they shot the BB too fast. Mine with pellets now will easily hit a quarter at 25 yards with every shot.
I didn't bother cutting the barrel when I did mine. If you use the Buck-Rail adapter and suppressor it there's no need to and overall length is the same.
-
I just ordered one of Ron's triggers off eBay. I love this little rifle so much I've got to give it a nice trigger.
-
I just ordered one of Ron's triggers off eBay. I love this little rifle so much I've got to give it a nice trigger.
Ron hit a home run with that one. Be careful once the trigger wears in, the pressure drops to the point you don't wanna touch the trigger until your ready. I have one on my 87 880 and when I've been shooting my 1977s then get my 87 out I often misfire because I put too much pressure one the trigger at rest. It is really frustrating when I'm trying to train the scope on a squirrel and it goes off because I let my finger get heavy on the trigger LOL.
Yall, got me thinking about picking up a 35 to tinker with. Looks like a lotta love for the 35.
-
I just ordered one of Ron's triggers off eBay. I love this little rifle so much I've got to give it a nice trigger.
Ron hit a home run with that one. Be careful once the trigger wears in, the pressure drops to the point you don't wanna touch the trigger until your ready. I have one on my 87 880 and when I've been shooting my 1977s then get my 87 out I often misfire because I put too much pressure one the trigger at rest. It is really frustrating when I'm trying to train the scope on a squirrel and it goes off because I let my finger get heavy on the trigger LOL.
Yall, got me thinking about picking up a 35 to tinker with. Looks like a lotta love for the 35.
Thanks for the heads-up on the trigger. A have a couple of other guns with light triggers so I'll try to be mindful of it.
I don't have a 880 or a 1977, but I do have a 901. I like my 35s a lot better than the 901.