GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Air Head on July 11, 2020, 03:57:09 PM
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Howdy Gents!
I started a poll a few weeks ago and Tru-Oil beat out Tung Oil here on GTA.
So I gave it a shot. It is indeed easier to work with than Tung Oil, similar results though. I have to say I am impressed.
This is a 1963 Blue Streak, I resealed it with a Mac 1 kit, drilled and tapped it for a Williams peep sight. Refinished the stock with Tru-Oil
and the barrel and pump tube with Brownells Aluma Hyde II.
I also had a poll as to scope it or not, I followed the purist views I read and kept it more classic and stream line with the Williams.
Thanks to all for the input!
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That looks very nice! Good job on very good wood.
If you really want to get impressed with Tru-Oil try using the "Armor-All magic elixir" method. I'm not joking. You can apply twice the number of coats in the same time and it goes on smoother. You have to use original formula Armor-All for it to work. Google "Tru-Oil magic elixir" and you'll find several links. I think the best description is on Rimfire Central by the person who discovered it.
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That looks very nice! Good job on very good wood.
If you really want to get impressed with Tru-Oil try using the "Armor-All magic elixir" method. I'm not joking. You can apply twice the number of coats in the same time and it goes on smoother. You have to use original formula Armor-All for it to work. Google "Tru-Oil magic elixir" and you'll find several links. I think the best description is on Rimfire Central by the person who discovered it.
Thank you! I'll check it out.
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Small game huntin' machine, ready for a few more decades of service! Nice.
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Was the aluma-hyde hard to work with? Did you seal it somehow afterwards?
Fantastic job!
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I've been experimenting with the armor-all trick. It's really fast to cure. I don't know what's in Armor-all, but it really kicks the process.
Hunter
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Armor All? Gotta check that out. I sprayed several fairly heavy coats of Tru Oil on a stock once and it took a week before I felt confident handling it and a month before it smelled cured (i.e., little or no odor). Came out nice but won't be doing that again.
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Was the aluma-hyde hard to work with? Did you seal it somehow afterwards?
Fantastic job!
Thank you!
The Aluma-Hyde was a bit of a pain to work with. I recommend purchasing spare tips (Brownells sells them, They should include spare tips with the rattle can!)
When I do it again I'll change tips between coats whether it needs it or not. It clogged and spit out a several glops. I followed their 4 coat procedure they have on YouTube to a "T".
They failed to mention it has a tendency to clog.
I had to lightly sand it down with a scotch bright sanding pad to remove the splatter. I bought new tips and gave it 2 more light coats. I again lightly sanded it with "fine" Scotch brite pad
after it cured.
I used Brownells semi-gloss but it looked too shiny in my opinion. That's why (along with smoothing it out) I lightly sanded it. To bring back the luster a bit I used Johnson's Paste
Wax with 000 steel wool. There's a good video on the Tube about it. You can make it as shiny as you want with this method. In all honesty it looks better than the pictures I posted,
and seems to be pretty durable, after cure.
If you try this be sure to have your spare tips ready, shake well, and you can warm the can in hot water prior. Watch their video on the proven 4 step procedure. You can adjust the sheen or
gloss as I described above. The cure time is for real, I'd wait 7 days before reassemble.
I reviewed many finishes, GunKote, Cerakote, they both compared better, Aluma-Hyde II was no slouch though, it was cheaper and did not require baking. I didn't want to bake it because I
had already resealed it.
I will use it again, you just need to know what to expect.
Rich
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Small game huntin' machine, ready for a few more decades of service! Nice.
Thanks Mike!
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I've been experimenting with the armor-all trick. It's really fast to cure. I don't know what's in Armor-all, but it really kicks the process.
Hunter
If you’re interested 😃
According to patent documents, Armor All typically contains water, PDMS (silicone), diethylene glycol, glycerin, and various additional chemical compounds.[1]
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I put Tru-oil on the wood and rub it in, then I spray Armour-all and rub it with the Tru-oil for a few minutes. I wipe off the excess and it will be dry to the touch in 15 minutes.
The guy that I read about sprayed the AA first, then applied the T.O. I read about another guy that mixed them before applying to the wood. I did my own thing. T.O., soak, spray AA then wipe and leave it to dry/cure.
I am considering getting a wood stocked BB gun from Wal-Mart to try first. At this point I'm just testing the process on pine 2x4's.
I hope that anyone who tries this will tell us about their experiences.
Hunter
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Brownells has a special clean out nozzle as well as the extra tips for the Aluma-Hyde. It has a large spray hole in it. You use it between coats with the can turned upside down to clean out the spray tube in the can so it does not form the glops, then use either the same tip if its clear or a new one. Since I found out about that I've had no problems with clogs. I like the Matt Black better, then after it cures spray some clear satin seal coat if I want some sheen. I don't know why they do not list the clean out nozzle with the extra ones. It's kind of lost on later pages. Also on parts that will not be harmed by heat, like 2240 frames, you can bake in the oven at 190 degrees for about 2 1/2 hours for a quick cure.
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I hope that anyone who tries this will tell us about their experiences.
I've used the "magic elixir" of Armor All and Tru-Oil on several stocks. I won't do it the old way anymore, it takes too long to build up enough layers to fill the grain. First, I always wear nitrile surgical gloves. It makes the finish smoother and you'll never leave fingerprints. Spray a small amount of Armor All on the area you are going to treat. Don't try to cover large areas. Use enough Armor All to make the area shiny but not wet. Dip a couple of fingers in the Tru-Oil and start spreading and rubbing it in. In a few minutes the catalyst in the Armor All begins to kick in and it will harden the Tru-Oil while rubbing. The Armor All comes to the surface and lubricates the hardening Tru-Oil as you rub. You can feel the change take place as you're rubbing. It's amazing. In about 15-20 minutes you can add another coat of Armor All and Tru-Oil.
After at least 6 coats comes the part I hate but it's mandatory. Using 220 grit sandpaper, sand off the layers you just put on. Then build up another 6 or more layers of Tru-Oil. If you see any pores or evidence of the wood grain showing, sand it off again. Yes I know you feel like you're ruining all the work you did. But it pays off in the end. Eventually the finish will harden perfectly smooth and every pore in the wood will be filled. It will be as smooth as glass. Add another couple of coats and you have a professional gun stock finish.
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Found that link on Rimfire Central, fascinating stuff, he discovered it by accident.
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331108&highlight=blond (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331108&highlight=blond)
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Wow, Rich! You did a beautiful job with it!
Stay safe,
J~
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Wow, Rich! You did a beautiful job with it!
Stay safe,
J~
Thanks Jeff!
You stay safe too!
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Curious the need to fill the grain, most of my classic vintage gun have the grain visible, adds to feel and beauty of the wood. Total mirror gloss does not have as much character to me?
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I agree, although having the grain all filled doesn't mean you have to have a gloss finish.
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There's no rule that says you have to fill the grain. It's quicker and easier not to fill the grain. I learned the finishing method I like to use from Mike Chavka's Stock Making 101 manual. It's still in the GTA archives: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA2/PDF/MikeChavkaStockMaking101.pdf (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA2/PDF/MikeChavkaStockMaking101.pdf)
The chapter on finishing with Tru-Oil begins on page 96. The only thing I do differently is using the Armor All method.
Here's a sample of Mike's stock making and finishing art:
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Curious the need to fill the grain, most of my classic vintage gun have the grain visible, adds to feel and beauty of the wood. Total mirror gloss does not have as much character to me?
That's my thoughts too. My vintage guns look great without the walnut grain completely filled. A few modern guns of mine had beautiful walnut figure but looked artificial due to the glass slick finish. They really looked great after using Klean-Strip spray. The factory plastic looking finish foamed up and came right off in sheets. Then I sanded and applied an oil finish that did not completely fill the grain and no one has to ask if it is real wood anymore. True Oil finish that fills the grain does look better than the plastic stuff though. Just a matter of personal taste I guess.
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I apply many coats and knock it back down to wood just to fill the grain. The final finish is so thin it looks like bare wood without the pores. A factory doesn’t have the time or labor to apply finish this way. It takes days to accomplish even with Armor All. A factory finish is put on with a spray gun. It would have to be thick to be smooth.
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put me in the camp that likes the grain mostly unfilled. A super light light sandng is usually enough for my tastes Not a fan of the glass plastic finish at all. I try and leave much of he natural finish as possible ,work with whats there. Sometimes a little distress leaves a bit of original flavor / character , we know the factory spent little time with the finish . I kinda like the feel of the grain shooting wise as well. Its all good though...what ever floats your boat ..LOL.
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Curious the need to fill the grain, most of my classic vintage gun have the grain visible, adds to feel and beauty of the wood. Total mirror gloss does not have as much character to me?
I did intentionally stop before the grain and pores were filled. I too enjoy feeling and seeing the texture of wood.
I applied 8 thin coats buffing lightly with 0000 steel wool between coats.
I probably didn't post the best photo's, but the Tru-Oil really did bring out the sheen.
Here's a couple more that that may better represent the finish I achieved.
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The armor all trick may look good but I would be wary to apply anything that contains water to a wood stock I am trying to seal with oil.
The hand rubbed oil finish on a stock serves two purposes- look good AND Seal the stock! You are trying to keep the water out!
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Was the aluma-hyde hard to work with? Did you seal it somehow afterwards?
Fantastic job!
Thank you!
The Aluma-Hyde was a bit of a pain to work with. I recommend purchasing spare tips (Brownells sells them, They should include spare tips with the rattle can!)
When I do it again I'll change tips between coats whether it needs it or not. It clogged and spit out a several glops. I followed their 4 coat procedure they have on YouTube to a "T".
They failed to mention it has a tendency to clog.
I had to lightly sand it down with a scotch bright sanding pad to remove the splatter. I bought new tips and gave it 2 more light coats. I again lightly sanded it with "fine" Scotch brite pad
after it cured.
I used Brownells semi-gloss but it looked too shiny in my opinion. That's why (along with smoothing it out) I lightly sanded it. To bring back the luster a bit I used Johnson's Paste
Wax with 000 steel wool. There's a good video on the Tube about it. You can make it as shiny as you want with this method. In all honesty it looks better than the pictures I posted,
and seems to be pretty durable, after cure.
If you try this be sure to have your spare tips ready, shake well, and you can warm the can in hot water prior. Watch their video on the proven 4 step procedure. You can adjust the sheen or
gloss as I described above. The cure time is for real, I'd wait 7 days before reassemble.
I reviewed many finishes, GunKote, Cerakote, they both compared better, Aluma-Hyde II was no slouch though, it was cheaper and did not require baking. I didn't want to bake it because I
had already resealed it.
I will use it again, you just need to know what to expect.
Rich
Rich, the reasons you state are the exact reasons why I use Brownells Dura-Coat instead. It is a 2-part paint that requires an airbrush to apply, but dries rock hard in 24 hours, and the semi-gloss is a perfect match for Crosman 101's and looks good on Blue Streaks too.
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Whatever the effort spent and process used certainly hit the mark. The wood looks great.
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Whatever the effort spent and process used certainly hit the mark. The wood looks great.
Thank You!
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Rich, the reasons you state are the exact reasons why I use Brownells Dura-Coat instead. It is a 2-part paint that requires an airbrush to apply, but dries rock hard in 24 hours, and the semi-gloss is a perfect match for Crosman 101's and looks good on Blue Streaks too.
Jeff I'm sure it's the way to go. In reality I should have finished the barrel and pump tube before I resealed, and I don't own an airbrush......
yet ;).
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I agree it is a beautiful gun. You did a great job there.
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Jeff I'm sure it's the way to go. In reality I should have finished the barrel and pump tube before I resealed, and I don't own an airbrush......yet ;)
I have a nice dual action airbrush for artwork and a $10 single action Harbor Freight airbrush. 90% of the painting I do is single color so the cheap Harbor Freight special gets the most use by far. I've had it for many years and the only thing that it's needed is one o-ring. It's all you need to get started if you have an air compressor.
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Jeff I'm sure it's the way to go. In reality I should have finished the barrel and pump tube before I resealed, and I don't own an airbrush......yet ;)
I have a nice dual action airbrush for artwork and a $10 single action Harbor Freight airbrush. 90% of the painting I do is single color so the cheap Harbor Freight special gets the most use by far. I've had it for many years and the only thing that it's needed is one o-ring. It's all you need to get started if you have an air compressor.
John I do have a compressor. I never associated it with something as delicate and small as an airbrush. It's a small porter cable pancake compressor I use for pneumatic tools.
I will check it out and see if it would be compatible with an air brush. I have a few Harbor Freight's close by.
Thanks for the heads up, I thought the set up might be pricey.
Rich
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If the air compressor has a regulator that goes down to 25-30 psi that's all you need. The airbrush kit has the adapter for standard air hose thread to fit the tiny hose in the kit. I don't have an oil trap or filter on my compressor output and it's never been an issue. The kit is under ten bucks if you have a 20% off coupon.
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I agree it is a beautiful gun. You did a great job there.
Thanks Bryan!
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BTW .....meant to congratulate you on this restoration effort ! I liked the refinish on the barrel and tube as well.
The 1963 CBW is my favorite Sheridan Streak , for me it has all the best features and materials of the 50's and 60's rolled into one , Im particularly partial to the partridge front sight and Williams peep on yours ! Combine that with the lovely American walnut and you have keeper .
Cheers !
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Your Blue Streak came out nice! Was wondering how you like the peep site? I had ordered one and it came today finally.
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Your Blue Streak came out nice! Was wondering how you like the peep site? I had ordered one and it came today finally.
Thank you,
After much deliberation, I chose not to scope it. (afraid of added stress and barrel separation on a 57 year old rifle). Glad I went that way,
I really do like it. Easy to sight in, streamline, and fast acquisition of a target. If it could bring me a beer, I'd.....well, that's another story ;).
I think you'll enjoy it! Have fun,
Rich
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BTW .....meant to congratulate you on this restoration effort ! I liked the refinish on the barrel and tube as well.
The 1963 CBW is my favorite Sheridan Streak , for me it has all the best features and materials of the 50's and 60's rolled into one , Im particularly partial to the partridge front sight and Williams peep on yours ! Combine that with the lovely American walnut and you have keeper .
Cheers !
Thank you!
I intend to keep her!
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Your Blue Streak came out nice! Was wondering how you like the peep site? I had ordered one and it came today finally.
Thank you,
I really do like it. Easy to sight in, streamline, and fast acquisition of a target.
Rich
^. This ..... when im in the woods .....thats what I want . No squirrel is safe . :D
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Fantastic job Rich, Your research and devotion paid off!!
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Fantastic job Rich, Your research and devotion paid off!!
Thanks Scott!