GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => 3D printing and files => Topic started by: BigBird on June 16, 2020, 10:24:27 PM
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Oval pellet pickle?
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7373)
Son has a new 3D printer. Printed this for the 1377. Can anyone tell me what went wrong? Per guidelines, we are not discussing how to make one just what went wrong and what to do differently.
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either in cura, or the drawing program one axis ( x or y) wwere stretched while moving the object.. go back into cura and check the x and y dimensons ( assuming this is printed standing up
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Thanks. I didn't change the drawing from the thingaverse stl. other than to accept defaults in Cura.
I am going to check the resistance (physical) on the rollers and try to print something smaller but round. I hate to waste this so I'll put it on the lathe and put some round holes in it. ;D
either in cura, or the drawing program one axis ( x or y) wwere stretched while moving the object.. go back into cura and check the x and y dimensons ( assuming this is printed standing up
...and I got the roller suggestion off the internet so I guess I'm asking if you think that would be a good assessment.
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not a good assesment unless everything round is printing oval.. If thats the case, where any cylinder is oval then the machine has an issue ( belts, rollers , bearings whatever //
If its downloaded from thingiverse , Beware.. for whatever reason , a lot of the stuff put out there is " almost complete " or the file was edited after the fact after people requested xy and z ..
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not a good assesment unless everything round is printing oval.. If thats the case, where any cylinder is oval then the machine has an issue ( belts, rollers , bearings whatever //
If its downloaded from thingiverse , Beware.. for whatever reason , a lot of the stuff put out there is " almost complete " or the file was edited after the fact after people requested xy and z ..
Good to know. I will print something else round and check. Son is smarter than I so I'll have him check Cura file. Thanks
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theres a scale tab at the bottom of cura, when printing a cirlce , the x and y should be identical numbers.
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What does the hole at the other end look like? In your picture, the pellet hole looks a lot more eccentric than then the outside diameter.
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The OD looks as if but in a different direction. I have messed up a lot of prints but that is one way I have not yet. Let us know what caused it.
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As an aside, what is the guideline for pickle files. Can one point to a Thingiverse ID number?
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As an aside, what is the guideline for pickle files. Can one point to a Thingiverse ID number?
I wont tell you how to make it and you have to find it there.
Here are all the things tagged 1377 in thingaverse. It is the V2 one (black). It's not mine so I cant vouch for it yet.
https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:1377 (https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:1377)
The OD looks as if but in a different direction. I have messed up a lot of prints but that is one way I have not yet. Let us know what caused it.
This might be the issue. In assembly we put the belt ends up, which acted like a squeegee when the printer extruder switched directions. It caused a little bit of resistance which affected the motion. I'm going to call it a newbie error. I printed a few things and it seems to look much more round.
Before:
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7375)
After
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7376)
Started a P17 pickle and had a different problem. PLA that came with the printer snaps and then prints hot air. Im trying to use that up.
Perfecting Plastic Parts Production per P17 Ported Pickle with PLA and a whistle that isn't wooden but it wouldn't whistle :o
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7377)
Also printing a Daisy 856 front sight (version #3) in white.
P.S.
What does the hole at the other end look like? In your picture, the pellet hole looks a lot more eccentric than then the outside diameter.
The hole for the barrel was also oval.
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theres a scale tab at the bottom of cura, when printing a cirlce , the x and y should be identical numbers.
Good to know. I have literally just used Cura as a converter (edit: )(.stl files to Gcode). I need to figure out how to use CAD so I can combine (remix) a Daisy front sight and a Pickle so I can make a pink 35 into a short range sparrow popper for my son. I used to use CAD back in the 1990s for kitchens and bath work with take-offs from blueprints. I'm not sure the software is the same now.
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If not stored pla will draw moisture and break also. I switched to petg it's more durable and not as reactive to sun light.
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If not stored pla will draw moisture and break also. I switched to petg it's more durable and not as reactive to sun light.
Ok. That info is good to know. I have one roll sitting out.
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Moderator please redact any parts that may violate rules. This discussion could be for any 3d part.
I figured out how to use a free program (TinkerCAD - https://www.tinkercad.com/ (https://www.tinkercad.com/)) last night and remixed a the 856 front sight and P17 pickle. It is fairly easy to use. I literally googled 3 or 4 processes that I needed and looked at the resulting tutorials (Z axis, reduce using holes or something, merging). I used the align function but the sight is not concentric to the hole. For some reason it actually snapped right over the pickle and I zoomed all around to check it was good. The print is good and the seam is solid. However there are a few internal strings where the seam is that I will pop out. I will add an internal 🍩 in the area to mitigate. But I am pleased for my first try.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7378)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7379)
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What are your retraction settings?
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What are your retraction settings?
Ill have to check. I havent changed any settings on it (or many) as I am a newbie. I do know that I cannot print a "ledge in open space" without any support below it. I think that is what it may have been doing since there may have been a part of the front sight there. I reduced (cut off) the front of the sight and the rear of the pickle. I probably shouldnt have reduced the sight. Can you tell me about retraction? Should I set the nozzle temp lower for these ledges?
Put pickle on the pink 35 and it works ok but I think I need to do the tape mod as the barrel channel is larger than the original.
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What are your retraction settings?
Ill have to check. I havent changed any settings on it (or many) as I am a newbie. I do know that I cannot print a "ledge in open space" without any support below it. I think that is what it may have been doing since there may have been a part of the front sight there. I reduced (cut off) the front of the sight and the rear of the pickle. I probably shouldnt have reduced the sight. Can you tell me about retraction? Should I set the nozzle temp lower for these ledges?
Put pickle on the pink 35 and it works ok but I think I need to do the tape mod as the barrel channel is larger than the original.
Retraction pulls the filimant back into the nozzle a few mm reducing stringing on rapid movements. I set mine to 6mm.
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Increasing the retraction will help with the stringing inside the “pickle”.
From what information I have read and watched the retraction settings for the default cura profile for the ender3 used to be 12mm but it was reduced, 6mm would be a good start, sometimes I put mine to 8mm with a higher retraction speed. You can play with the nozzle temperature. Mine is set to 205 with my current filament, sometimes I go lower, but I have my layer height at .28 and my speed at 80 mms.
My settings may not work well for you, but I did print a file from thingiverse which is a slip on moderator for the HW97 and it’s been working well. (Upscaled to 120%)
Very little internal stringing.
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What works with my ender3 may not work the same for you. Everyone has really great tips but change one thing at a time. I chased my tail changing more than 1 setting at a time before. We want it to work and work perfect right now but spending several hours tuning will net repatable results later.
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Dan.
Thanks for pointing out/reminding me of the P17 pickle on Thingiverse. With a slight nudge on scaling to get a gentle press fit, it only adds 4 in, and does a good job of muting the lead dust screams.
(the little spots on there are drizzle during the photo)
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Note, I did dremel a relief on the bottom of the P17, otherwise you can make a longer mount section.
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I really should get back into 3D printing, I started out when there were few if any designs out there for air rifles, so I took the harder route and had to try and get there from scratch. Another winter project, along with my .30 cal. 1400 build :-[
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Dan.
Thanks for pointing out/reminding me of the P17 pickle on Thingiverse. With a slight nudge on scaling to get a gentle press fit, it only adds 4 in, and does a good job of muting the lead dust screams.
(the little spots on there are drizzle during the photo)
I didnt have to scale it at all but now I see why you did. If you can make the narrow end longer it may allow it to work better. I see why a relief would help. I broke it ::) No worries, I will figure out how to stuff it down one of my freedoms.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7387)
Painted the Daisy 35 merged pickle Pink to match the Muddy Girl pattern and filled the piston at the same time. 7.9 gr CPHP at 645 and BBs a7 671 (magic number: FPE is grain size) and quiet.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7386)
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The p17 breakage is simply the way it is printed. Regardless of setting and material I have found that it is not the case. Lay it down horizontal and the layers will be perpendicular and resist breakage. You wont get the best looking in the end but it will be stronger. Make sure that internal support is not turned on. Now if you can find a 2 piece that makes it easier to print one part horizontal and the other vertical.
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I printed one of those p17 moderators today. It turned out great.
Stronghero PLA galaxy black
205 nozzle
50 bed, glass with glue stick.
6 walls with no infill
80 mm/s
increased retraction distance and speed.
It fit one of my three p17’s well.
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The p17 breakage is simply the way it is printed. Regardless of setting and material I have found that it is not the case. Lay it down horizontal and the layers will be perpendicular and resist breakage. You wont get the best looking in the end but it will be stronger. Make sure that internal support is not turned on. Now if you can find a 2 piece that makes it easier to print one part horizontal and the other vertical.
I tried a horizontal pickle and it didnt come out very good. It looked melted on the bottom and didnt align with the hole. I tried it for kicks in the basement and the pellet was directed up and hit the wall. :o. Although I realize now it is because I have no clue about all the settings. As evident by Dereks post:
I printed one of those p17 moderators today. It turned out great.
Stronghero PLA galaxy black
205 nozzle
50 bed, glass with glue stick.
6 walls with no infill
80 mm/s
increased retraction distance and speed.
It fit one of my three p17’s well.
It is nice to have these moderators posted. What printer do you have? I have an Ender 3 Pro.
Based upon these "numbers" I have a lot to learn.
I only just found the retraction setting number (1250).
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Yes, broke the pickle. Though I broke it trying to remove it (tight fit and relatively fresh paint). The Z print direction is weaker, but I think to print it horizontal, you probably have to design for that.
I made some tweaks, longer mount section, a couple of hits with the belt sander, and relief on the P17 and now I can get full range of motion.
The pickle works well enough that it is probably worth tweaking the design to get the clearance.
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Dan, I have an Ender3 as well. I'm using Cura and CHEP's profiles have been working pretty well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSKT2WOVG8I (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSKT2WOVG8I)
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Yes, broke the pickle. Though I broke it trying to remove it (tight fit and relatively fresh paint). The Z print direction is weaker, but I think to print it horizontal, you probably have to design for that.
I made some tweaks, longer mount section, a couple of hits with the belt sander, and relief on the P17 and now I can get full range of motion.
The pickle works well enough that it is probably worth tweaking the design to get the clearance.
Looks familiar. I wonder if lengthening the insert and shortening the ldc would work too. TinkerCAD it.
So last night I tightened another roller and printed a perfectly concentric 1377 pickle to replace my 1" plain PVC pickle (works great). But it broke too (one of the internal tube sides)! I am super gluing it back together. I will watch the video later today.
I wonder if white PLA has anything to do with it too. Maybe it cools faster and needs a higher temp? It seems easier to break. Maybe there is a heat treatment for PLA?
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7388)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7389)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7390)
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You could mod it so that it uses a piece of pipe that slips in both the LDC and p17. As nice as it is to have the 3d printer do all the work some times you get better results with adding is better parts.
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Yeah, a piece of thin wall tubing as a liner would go a long way. That way the 3D print still provides the diameter match to the P17.
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A quick 3D mod for the P17. For paper punching, I didn't like the glow sights. I took them out. The rear sight was easy to mask. The front sight post is too narrow and rounded on top. So I made a simple 8X4X4 mm block and mounted it in the gap. The Frankenstein screws and double sided tape are temporary to see how I like it, eventually just bond it on.
So far it is working great. Fills the notch well with a square profile and provides a nice flat top.
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Maybe a Newbie "duh" here. This may be at least part of my problem. 20% infill probably isnt good enough for attachment points.
I am trying to print a 100% fill 1377 - 1/2-20 adapter. It takes 2.5 hours. Probably too much infill but it will provide a point of reference.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7396)
The broken 1377s both worked great after a little fixing on the lathe. However, this one snapped reall quick.
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A quick 3D mod for the P17. For paper punching, I didn't like the glow sights. I took them out. The rear sight was easy to mask. The front sight post is too narrow and rounded on top. So I made a simple 8X4X4 mm block and mounted it in the gap. The Frankenstein screws and double sided tape are temporary to see how I like it, eventually just bond it on.
So far it is working great. Fills the notch well with a square profile and provides a nice flat top.
I feel there are not enough air gun parts on Thingiverse. I can think of a bunch of remixes and scratch builts. I always wanted a higher front sight for any gun I put my Daisy peep on but didn't have access to a printer. I think your sight would be easy to do in TinkerCAD.
I am working on a custom scratch built Pickle that I need to print out overnight (or for several days at 100% infill) ;D
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2.5 hours is nothing just do it. I have prints I do for a repeat customer that takes 12 hours for 10 parts 100% infill.
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I’ve been 3D printing for around 5 years now. I’ve tested all kinds of filaments and all kinds of print settings on maybe 30 printers from entry level to pro-sumer over the years.
In my opinion, unless you’re going to be tapping holes in, or through bolting your print, 100% infill is a waste in most applications. Strength comes from wall thickness in most prints.
When I print my LDCs or other parts I shoot for 50% infill with 4 walls at .5mm for a total wall thickness of 2mm.
3D honeycomb infill has always tested the strongest all around on everything I’ve printed.
For filament, I use PETG 90% of the time. It’s easier to print and stronger than most of your other non exotic filaments. It has decent thermal qualities, and is easy to machine if needed.
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I’ve been 3D printing for around 5 years now. I’ve tested all kinds of filaments and all kinds of print settings on maybe 30 printers from entry level to pro-sumer over the years.
In my opinion, unless you’re going to be tapping holes in, or through bolting your print, 100% infill is a waste in most applications. Strength comes from wall thickness in most prints.
When I print my LDCs or other parts I shoot for 50% infill with 4 walls at .5mm for a total wall thickness of 2mm.
3D honeycomb infill has always tested the strongest all around on everything I’ve printed.
For filament, I use PETG 90% of the time. It’s easier to print and stronger than most of your other non exotic filaments. It has decent thermal qualities, and is easy to machine if needed.
I don’t have the same amount of experience but I agree, the infill isn’t what adds strength, I only use enough infill to support overhangs of the model.
The P17 moderator I printed with 6 walls was to eliminate infill completely, 5 walls may have been enough.
I slice files then I look for problems or things I don’t like and chance settings.
My printers are an Ender 5, Cr-20 pro and Cr-10
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(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7397)
Ok. Newbie duh again. Advice taken (seen after the fact). I didnt put much pressure on it.
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Have you had any issues with your extruder?
I downloaded and sliced the file with my settings and when I was looking at the layer view I saw that there really isn’t much material where the threads start. So it’s probably not you this time.
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3d printing is definitely a lot trial and error, but that’s part of the fun I think. If something comes out wrong, you don’t really lose much aside from the time it took to print it.
I just wanted to share a few things I’ve picked up over the years, and hopefully help anyone reading this.
My biggest complaint starting off was that sometimes the same filament from the same manufacturer printed different than the roll before. I switched to pretty much only printing 3DXTech filament and Atomic Filament, and those issues went away. I chased everything on my printers before I finally figured that one out.
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Dan,
One approach I took was to make an adapter/housing that used the trail NP internal baffle that is available from Crosman or Pyramyd for a few dollars (not my original idea though I can't remember which thread it came from). I first made a test adapter that fits on the crosman barrel and has the thread to accept the baffle. Once I did a fit check with that, I added to the design an integral outside tube which was the right length so that when baffle was screwed in, it closed off the end of the tube. This gave me the threads, the baffle itself and the outside tube to resist bending. It appears fairly stout, though I didn't try to break it. I just avoided overtightening the baffle so it didn't stress the printed threads.
Moderator, if this is too much detail, please delete
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3d printing is definitely a lot trial and error, but that’s part of the fun I think. If something comes out wrong, you don’t really lose much aside from the time it took to print it.
I just wanted to share a few things I’ve picked up over the years, and hopefully help anyone reading this.
My biggest complaint starting off was that sometimes the same filament from the same manufacturer printed different than the roll before. I switched to pretty much only printing 3DXTech filament and Atomic Filament, and those issues went away. I chased everything on my printers before I finally figured that one out.
I have wasted a few spools myself.
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Have you had any issues with your extruder?
I downloaded and sliced the file with my settings and when I was looking at the layer view I saw that there really isn’t much material where the threads start. So it’s probably not you this time.
If you are talking about this file:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881213 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881213)
yeah, I had issues with it even at 100% fill. I think it needs a fix or a remix.
This happened:
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7398)
Probably making the walls thicker may help?
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Have you had any issues with your extruder?
I downloaded and sliced the file with my settings and when I was looking at the layer view I saw that there really isn’t much material where the threads start. So it’s probably not you this time.
If you are talking about this file:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881213 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881213)
yeah, I had issues with it even at 100% fill. I think it needs a fix or a remix.
This happened:
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7398)
Probably making the walls thicker may help?
What’s your layer height and print speed?
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Dan,
One approach I took was to make an adapter/housing that used the trail NP internal baffle that is available from Crosman or Pyramyd for a few dollars (not my original idea though I can't remember which thread it came from). I first made a test adapter that fits on the crosman barrel and has the thread to accept the baffle. Once I did a fit check with that, I added to the design an integral outside tube which was the right length so that when baffle was screwed in, it closed off the end of the tube. This gave me the threads, the baffle itself and the outside tube to resist bending. It appears fairly stout, though I didn't try to break it. I just avoided overtightening the baffle so it didn't stress the printed threads.
Moderator, if this is too much detail, please delete
Ok that would help the Trail thing. I should have extended my aluminum walker back a little farther on mine to add a stop like you've got. Air comes out the back otherwise.
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Have you had any issues with your extruder?
I downloaded and sliced the file with my settings and when I was looking at the layer view I saw that there really isn’t much material where the threads start. So it’s probably not you this time.
If you are talking about this file:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881213 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881213)
yeah, I had issues with it even at 100% fill. I think it needs a fix or a remix.
This happened:
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7398)
Probably making the walls thicker may help?
What’s your layer height?
I have to check. Will that help? It was probably default as I was trying to do one setting at a time. I probably wont do 100% again for a while. I have a P17 pickle printing with quality increased and 50% fill.
Thanks for the help.
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So the big strands hanging out in the middle look like when I print with a volcano toolhead and have too high of a layer with too much speed.
It looks like the filament is being pulled away from the previous layer before it has time to bind.
It also looks like it may be the an overhang there? Is that an undercut 90 degree overhang inside there?
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Typically default is .2mm
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So the big strands hanging out in the middle look like when I print with a volcano toolhead and have too high of a layer with too much speed.
It looks like the filament is being pulled away from the previous layer before it has time to bind.
It also looks like it may be a an overhang there? Is that an undercut 90 degree overhang inside there?
That dose not look like typical stringing.
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So the big strands hanging out in the middle look like when I print with a volcano toolhead and have too high of a layer with too much speed.
It looks like the filament is being pulled away from the previous layer before it has time to bind.
It also looks like it may be an overhang there? Is that an undercut 90 degree overhang inside there?
That dose not look like typical stringing.
Looking again, I definitely think there’s an overhang there, and what you can see in the photo is the filament just extruding into air because there’s nothing under it for it to bind on.
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With my experiences it looks like a few different issues all at once. Mostly it looks like layer adhesion from one of a few issues. One the filament which is not common was not at the proper diameter. 2 my most common issue is the hot end did not keep temps up for the speed I demanded. 3 see 2 but the extruder skipped on the filament. 4 the filament was junk and that was only with PLA.
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So the big strands hanging out in the middle look like when I print with a volcano toolhead and have too high of a layer with too much speed.
It looks like the filament is being pulled away from the previous layer before it has time to bind.
It also looks like it may be an overhang there? Is that an undercut 90 degree overhang inside there?
That dose not look like typical stringing.
Looking again, I definitely think there’s an overhang there, and what you can see in the photo is the filament just extruding into air because there’s nothing under it for it to bind on.
I may have my settings different but I do not have issues with gaps and small overhangs like that. My settings will print the ID OD then infill not cross a gap like that until the next layer.
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With my experiences it looks like a few different issues all at once. Mostly it looks like layer adhesion from one of a few issues. One the filament which is not common was not at the proper diameter. 2 my most common issue is the hot end did not keep temps up for the speed I demanded. 3 see 2 but the extruder skipped on the filament. 4 the filament was junk and that was only with PLA.
I think I had the nozzle setting at 210 degrees. Not sure of the speed. I think the printing uses the lawn-mower and criss crosses the next layer (like my sophisticated neighbors do with their lawn) and not totally sure but I think it crosses over holes. Again, not totally sure. What settings can I change to fill in walls first?
The P17 pickle turned out really well HOWEVER, I just noticed it aims up (Pickle is straight) and I now have leaded paint AND drywall. I just put a relief in the bottom of the muzzle too. :'(
Time to work on some
METAL
for my big bore. It is usually about the same trial and error with that too but slower fails. Hopefully all slow fails when it comes to pressure!
Actually, I really like the design part of this and am having fun with TinkerCAD. When I figure out the print settings I'll see if these things work. TinkerCAD design
is easy to learn and it fills that creative niche. In my mind, 3d printing is much less expensive than a lathe and tooling and gets you. Away from tunnel (spindle) vision working with only round things. ;)
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I printed one tonight, it doesn’t appear to have any issues, but I’ve adjusted a lot of my settings and the extruder has been upgraded.
So here are my settings.
.2 layer height
Wall thickness 2.4 yes 6 walls
No change to top and bottom thickness
Infill 60
Pattern triangles, as recommended by the guy who remixed it.
Printing temp is 205
Plate temp is 50, I use glue on a glass plate and adhesion is great.
Print speed 80.0 mm/s
Retraction enables
Print cooling enabled
Fan speed 100
No support and no extra adhesion
Retraction is 6.5 and speed is 25
Minimum layer time is 10 seconds
Minimum speed is 10 mm/s
Total print time was 1hr 34 minutes, the estimate is very accurate.
This was printed on my Ender 5.
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I printed one tonight, it doesn’t appear to have any issues, but I’ve adjusted a lot of my settings and the extruder has been upgraded.
So here are my settings.
.2 layer height
Wall thickness 2.4 yes 6 walls
No change to top and bottom thickness
Infill 60
Pattern triangles, as recommended by the guy who remixed it.
Printing temp is 205
Plate temp is 50, I use glue on a glass plate and adhesion is great.
Print speed 80.0 mm/s
Retraction enables
Print cooling enabled
Fan speed 100
No support and no extra adhesion
Retraction is 6.5 and speed is 25
Minimum layer time is 10 seconds
Minimum speed is 10 mm/s
Total print time was 1hr 34 minutes, the estimate is very accurate.
This was printed on my Ender 5.
Ok. My retraction is 1250 not sure how that translates? 12.5?
I think most of the other settings are about the same. Have to check height. That is related to "quality" overall setting.
I just looked at a 2289 print that I did a while back and it has the same thing. Not sure if it is related.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7401)
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Sorry if you’ve already posted it, but you’re printing with PLA correct?
Looking at that photo it looks like adhesion. Those look like complete lines of filament just not sticking to the previous layer.
As far as retraction, I would think in just about any slicer retraction would be in mm. For a Bowden tube setup anywhere between 6 and 15 is usually where I’ve ended up, the 15 Mark was with a printer with a super long Bowden tube though. I want to say on the Ender 3 Pro I had, I ended up between 6-8 most of the time. You would want a lower retraction for PLA as it has a tendency for heat creep. Want to keep the molten filament out of your heat break.
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I guess you could cheat and put the thread portion of a 5/16 flare fitting in the transition.
https://store.fedhillusa.com/p125.aspx (https://store.fedhillusa.com/p125.aspx)
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Sorry if you’ve already posted it, but you’re printing with PLA correct?
Looking at that photo it looks like adhesion. Those look like complete lines of filament just not sticking to the previous layer.
As far as retraction, I would think in just about any slicer retraction would be in mm. For a Bowden tube setup anywhere between 6 and 15 is usually where I’ve ended up, the 15 Mark was with a printer with a super long Bowden tube though. I want to say on the Ender 3 Pro I had, I ended up between 6-8 most of the time. You would want a lower retraction for PLA as it has a tendency for heat creep. Want to keep the molten filament out of your heat break.
Ok. Ill try that next time. I guess I set it to 6-800 instead of 1250.
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Dan,
You probably solved the breakage problem with your 1377 print by now.
I tried a different approach and left the front sight assembly in place and made a mount that slips over the existing sight. It fit well but I did add a 4-40 screw to pinch the ends together. It works well so far. Actually, I'm going to add a short sleeve over the barrel under the pinch screw so that it clamps down on the barrel as well. I think it will act as a barrel clamp to some extent and improve on stock.
I printed with 100% fill
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Dan,
You probably solved the breakage problem with your 1377 print by now.
I tried a different approach and left the front sight assembly in place and made a mount that slips over the existing sight. It fit well but I did add a 4-40 screw to pinch the ends together. It works well so far. Actually, I'm going to add a short sleeve over the barrel under the pinch screw so that it clamps down on the barrel as well. I think it will act as a barrel clamp to some extent and improve on stock.
I printed with 100% fill
Oh man! Funny. I had a similar thought! It would be a remix of the weaver rail that is already on Thingiverse. I have been working on a buch of other ones HOWEVER my 1377 ones all fail when I am putting them on or taking them off. My print issue IS fixed. I figured out there is a low spot in the middle. I dont have a glass plate but when I level down to absolute minimum on the corners it seems to work for the middle. I printed another 1377 pickle again for 16 hours and the thing still broke at the hinge insert area.
Working on a Nova Freedom insert now. I've got a daisy pickle too. Are we allowed to post .stl pickles here? That might go against rules??
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The Ender 3 bed on a 4 point mount is always under some bending, especially at temperature. Last time re-leveled, I did it at temperature. I think it helped.
It should be OK to post the mount portion of the pickle without the forward section. It is easy enough to add a preferred pickle section in CAD.