GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => 3D printing and files => Topic started by: Scotchmo on May 09, 2018, 12:52:38 AM
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I'd like to see what others are doing with 3D printing for their airguns. Printed parts, 3D models of parts, and ideas for airgun parts.
I've been doing CAD for decades, played with small CNC machines, and also lots of manual machining with lathes and mills. Now I have the 3D printer bug. I started with a small $160 Mini Delta printer a couple months ago. I recently got a bigger Delta printer so now ready to attempt some bigger jobs. I can make a lot of functional parts right at my home office without having to drive to my shop.
Here are a few of mine to get started:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/100_5241.JPG)
The scrap bin. Unlike laboriously machined parts, I don't mind scrapping a 3D printed part:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/100_5242.JPG)
A press-on 4" side wheel for a Monstrum 6-24x50 scope. Just small enough to print on the Mini Delta:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/scope-wheel-monstrum.jpg)
Part of my X-prod stock:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/stock-mid-xprod.jpg)
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Scott,
Would you PLEASE make an inner cassette for the Marauder .177 mags that uses up the wide spacing of the OEM mags 10 shot ... likely get 14 or 15 shots in there ???
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Scott,
Would you PLEASE make an inner cassette for the Marauder .177 mags that uses up the wide spacing of the OEM mags 10 shot ... likely get 14 or 15 shots in there ???
15 shot does not look like it would quite fit. Maybe 14 shot, but aluminum would be better for that. I think 12 shot is doable in plastic, maybe 13.
There's a challenge. Create an STL file for a 12 shot insert to fit an otherwise stock Marauder magazine assembly. I'll probably attempt it at some point. Anyone else want to give it a "shot"?
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Scott,
Would you PLEASE make an inner cassette for the Marauder .177 mags that uses up the wide spacing of the OEM mags 10 shot ... likely get 14 or 15 shots in there ???
Or the "12+1" magazine.
I decided to give it a try. The process and the results:
I reverse engineered the .177 Marauder magazine insert last night while watching TV:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/100_5252.JPG)
13 pellets looked like it would easily fit in the 3D model:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/marauder-mag-00.jpg)
I printed out out a 12+1 replacement insert:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/100_5251.JPG)
Stock 10 shot magazine on left. Modified 12+1 on right:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/100_5245.JPG)
It works and it would be fine except for one issue. Outside the gun, the loaded magazine can lose the 2nd loaded pellet. The loading window is oblong by necessity. With the pellets spaced so close together, two fit in the window opening. The 2nd pellet can fall out if you are not careful. Once inserted into the gun, all good. I load magazines ahead of time, so that problem makes this an unacceptable modification. An 11 shot insert should be OK. A 12 shot magazine might also work. Any more than that would require a simple change to the printed insert, but would also require a new clear cover with a narrower window.
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/100_5250.JPG)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/40495398481_d261cce8d4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24Grv8x)20180225_221538 (https://flic.kr/p/24Grv8x) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
heres one of my more complicated prints, its a holder that mounts to a vigilante and holds 2 25 gram co2 tanks and a manifold .ive never kept a record off all my projects, except in tinkercad where its just files.
another was my 2240 arrow shooter breech seen here, fun and challenging to draw
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/25198539557_26401f9b2a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EoH6Uz)20180203_150934 (https://flic.kr/p/EoH6Uz) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
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Nice work on the 12+1 Scott! I'm not a Marauder Guy so can you tell me why the long slot in the clear part?
I'm looking at 3D printers so I'm interested in everyone's work.
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Nice work on the 12+1 Scott! I'm not a Marauder Guy so can you tell me why the long slot in the clear part?
I'm looking at 3D printers so I'm interested in everyone's work.
If the slot were round rather than oblong, you would need to load pellet #1 tail first through the hole in the other side of the magazine. With the insert now locked in place, you can rotate the cover to load the remaining pellets head first from the cover side.
The oblong slot makes pellet loading easier/faster. With the oblong slot, all pellets, even #1 can be loaded head first through the cover.
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Well been doing MRod single shot trays, a scope wheel and LDC baffles as well as these keychains. Not really a part but I think they are neat. This one is a gift for a friend of mine so it was personalized.
(https://i.imgur.com/nr3nn93.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KqOihHm.jpg)
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This turned out to be a much more involved/difficult than I had originally thought it would be. There were several iterations and multiple test prints of the various aspects of the design before the final print.
Final (most recent) CAD layout:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-02.jpg)
Final (most recent) solid model:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-00.jpg)
Slicer run:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-01.jpg)
It ended up OK. Could be improved even more but it's good enough to use now:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5291.JPG)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5292.JPG)
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Scott,
That is really excellent !! Even folks with wood stock G2 m-rods would benefit.
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Scott,
That is really excellent !! Even folks with wood stock G2 m-rods would benefit.
The adjustable G2 m-rod's cheek riser mechanism and geometry looks fairly straightforward. So it might be a much better candidate for this type of accessory. It could be lower and would look sleeker than the Gauntlet version.
The Gauntlet has a complicated cheek riser and complicated surface geometry. It was difficult to reverse engineer the dimensions of the cheek riser, and then try to blend the surfaces using my 18 year old CAD program. I was originally going to make it non-adjustable with 8 magazine slots, but decided to go the fully adjustable and then was limited to 7 slots. Besides the magazine holders, this cheek piece has more vertical adjustment than the factory Gauntlet (though I don't use/need the vertical adjustment). I'm not really interested in making more of these for the Gauntlet. Now the G2 m-rod - I might try that. Vince has already offered to lend me his G2 Marauder. But it will have to wait as other projects are in the wings.
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Scot that's awesome !
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These are all great-- really considering getting into 3D printing, however I don't have (really) any CAD experience.
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These are all great-- really considering getting into 3D printing, however I don't have (really) any CAD experience.
just mess around on tinkercad at night , you will be an expert in a few weeks
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I did another magazine holder. This time for a Marauder:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5293.JPG)
The post are printed as part of the cheek piece. So not as strong as the stock metal posts. It also took a long time to print. Dimensions are not quite right but it still lined up OK after some work with a file and sandpaper.:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5295.JPG)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5298.JPG)
If you want a challenging 3D print, here is the STL file that I used for the one pictured. You will need to turn on supports. Make the walls thick so that the posts are strong enough (or use 100% fill). About half the print time was just building up the posts and supports. When finished, use needle nosed pliers to pry out the supports. And a flat jewelers file or pocket knife to scrape off the support remnants. No guarantees on this file:
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/M-rod2-cheek-01.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/M-rod2-cheek-01.stl)
If I did any more for the Marauder, I'd adjust the dimensions and probably make it 1/8"-1/4" taller with metal posts that screw on. And it would likely hold 7 magazines.
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Scott H,
Man that magazine cheekpiece is quite impressive!! I think I need to have you take my 14"x14"x16" printer home with you so you can make some larger builds!
If you were interested in selling one or two I think I have a buyer!
Cameron
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That my friend is AWESOME .....
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doncha hate talented people :)
Been learning Fusion 360, and just bought the new Monoprice printer with the 300x300x 400mm build area. Fusion is WAY easier than Sketchup...... imo.....
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doncha hate talented people :)
Been learning Fusion 360, and just bought the new Monoprice printer with the 300x300x 400mm build area. Fusion is WAY easier than Sketchup...... imo.....
Dan,
That is a good size printer you just got. I started with a Mini-delta 110x120mm (print dia x height). Now using a a larger AnyCubic Delta 230x300mm. Big enough for everything I have attempted so far.
Fortunately, I had a jump start on the learning curve as I was big into CAD during the 1980's and 1990's. These newer, cheaper 3D printers open up a lot of design possibilities for parts that would have been extremely difficult (or impossible) to make using other manufacturing methods.
If I had a big enough printer, I'd attempt a rifle stock. Still looking for a 800x200x100mm Cartesian printer.
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I started with the Delta too. Price of admission was good, learned alot on it.
GOts lots of ideas, just need to make it happen CADD wise.... lot of 2 steps forward and one back .....
Stocks? yea thats the eventual.
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the k280 is economical weith 600mm build height , its a delta ..,. I know there is an economy 800mm delta out there, i just cannot find the link.or its been discontinued since i was searching large printers.
https://www.3dprintersbay.com/he3d-k280-large-delta-3d-printer-kit (https://www.3dprintersbay.com/he3d-k280-large-delta-3d-printer-kit)
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the k280 is economical weith 600mm build height , its a delta ..,. I know there is an economy 800mm delta out there, i just cannot find the link.or its been discontinued since i was searching large printers.
https://www.3dprintersbay.com/he3d-k280-large-delta-3d-printer-kit (https://www.3dprintersbay.com/he3d-k280-large-delta-3d-printer-kit)
A tall delta printer might work for a stock. Design the stock to be printed standing on the butt end. I'm now considering that by just using taller upright rails and longer belts on an otherwise standard AnyCubic delta.
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the k280 is economical weith 600mm build height , its a delta ..,. I know there is an economy 800mm delta out there, i just cannot find the link.or its been discontinued since i was searching large printers.
https://www.3dprintersbay.com/he3d-k280-large-delta-3d-printer-kit (https://www.3dprintersbay.com/he3d-k280-large-delta-3d-printer-kit)
A tall delta printer might work for a stock. Design the stock to be printed standing on the butt end. I'm now considering that by just using taller upright rails and longer belts on an otherwise standard AnyCubic delta.
it will work scot , just alter the firmare dimension in the Z axis.. ive seen a guy mod a mp select by doing this and making the Z about 200 mm as opposed to 120
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matter of fact, thinking about it now , you might not need to flash the firmware.. just alter the mechanics, and then change cura to reflect the new Z height.. the machine wont know better,.. So , aside from raw metal materials , this can me pulled off.. the gt2 belts and pulleys are dirt cheap on ebay
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matter of fact, thinking about it now , you might not need to flash the firmware.. just alter the mechanics, and then change cura to reflect the new Z height.. the machine wont know better,.. So , aside from raw metal materials , this can me pulled off.. the gt2 belts and pulleys are dirt cheap on ebay
I believe that you are correct, as the three end stop switches determines the vertical home position. The auto leveling sequence then determines the physical axis Z zero position on the build plate. I already priced out the needed parts. About $80-$90 to extend the stock height (680mm) up to 1500mm. The standard AnyCubic delta is only $160 currently. So for $250, we could have a printer with which to attempt to print a full length stock (albeit slowly).
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haahahaaa, awesome.. ID LOVE to see this ! .. I have my printer running right now , and I run my cnc machine in the garage while im on the couch during the day.So for me, once I know the g-code is correct, I really like walking away from the machine anyway,.. I did a 14 hr print , that was the longest one I did to completion.. I slept through 8 of it (-; a stock would likely be 50-70 hrs even at .2mm layer height
What are the mechanical challenges with the delta ??could you do it to the machine you have now ?? the anycubic ?
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1822/43346600742_8c5e643be6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/293oEed)s-l1600 (https://flic.kr/p/293oEed) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
looking at the machine ( 166 on ebay shipped
it looks like the extrusion shape of the uprights would need to be matched quite well for the bearings to ridee the length of the extension. Aside from that, i dont see any complications ..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ANYCUBIC-3D-Printer-Auto-Level-DIY-Delta-KOSSEL-Pulley-Version-Heated-Bed-PLA-US/263804410382?hash=item3d6bf7da0e%3Ag%3AHykAAOSwesVbMOBW&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=anycubic+delta&LH_BIN=1&_from=R40&rt=nc (https://www.ebay.com/itm/ANYCUBIC-3D-Printer-Auto-Level-DIY-Delta-KOSSEL-Pulley-Version-Heated-Bed-PLA-US/263804410382?hash=item3d6bf7da0e%3Ag%3AHykAAOSwesVbMOBW&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=anycubic+delta&LH_BIN=1&_from=R40&rt=nc)
they accept offers, so im betting theyd take 150
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haahahaaa, awesome.. ID LOVE to see this ! .. I have my printer running right now , and I run my cnc machine in the garage while im on the couch during the day.So for me, once I know the g-code is correct, I really like walking away from the machine anyway,.. I did a 14 hr print , that was the longest one I did to completion.. I slept through 8 of it (-; a stock would likely be 50-70 hrs even at .2mm layer height
What are the mechanical challenges with the delta ??could you do it to the machine you have now ?? the anycubic ?
The machine that I currently have is the AnyCubic "Plus" model. It has linear bearing carriages rather then the cheaper roller carriages. So besides the longer extrusions, I would need to source and purchase some extra long precision linear rails. That would raise the price considerably more even after including the cost of another delta printer with roller carriages. The roller ("pulley") version has carriages that track directly on the extrusions. The roller version would make for a simple conversion.
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makes perfect sense.. as opposed to extending the extrusions on the roller model id imagine replacing them would improve rigidity greatly.. Not a bad project if the extusions can be found easily.. ~250 bux completed , and one could in theory print as full size marauder stock.. My concern , having printed as tall as 11 inches is the base to height ratio.. at some point on the way up , even with a massive raft , I can see it getting wobbly
( im sure the extrusions could actually be slightly different specs since the roller assemblies are almost always adjustable , so a slight difference in rail size may not kill the project
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makes perfect sense.. as opposed to extending the extrusions on the roller model id imagine replacing them would improve rigidity greatly.. Not a bad project if the extusions can be found easily.. ~250 bux completed , and one could in theory print as full size marauder stock.. My concern , having printed as tall as 11 inches is the base to height ratio.. at some point on the way up , even with a massive raft , I can see it getting wobbly
( im sure the extrusions could actually be slightly different specs since the roller assemblies are almost always adjustable , so a slight difference in rail size may not kill the project
The 2020 extrusions use standardized dimensions. There are some different versions (t-slot, v-slot, etc.).
A good thing with delta printers is that the part remains stationary as it is built up. Unlike many of the Cartesian printers, the Deltas do pretty well on tall slender parts.
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makes perfect sense.. as opposed to extending the extrusions on the roller model id imagine replacing them would improve rigidity greatly.. Not a bad project if the extusions can be found easily.. ~250 bux completed , and one could in theory print as full size marauder stock.. My concern , having printed as tall as 11 inches is the base to height ratio.. at some point on the way up , even with a massive raft , I can see it getting wobbly
( im sure the extrusions could actually be slightly different specs since the roller assemblies are almost always adjustable , so a slight difference in rail size may not kill the project
The 2020 extrusions use standardized dimensions. There are some different versions (t-slot, v-slot, etc.).
A good thing with delta printers is that the part remains stationary as it is built up. Unlike many of the Cartesian printers, the Deltas do pretty well on tall slender parts.
makes sense , ive only had the cartesian models and the swaying was noticeable.. hmmmmmmmmm..
so the build might be easy.. drawing the stock to spec, and possibly doing revisions on a 60 hour print might be tough ( mentally (-'
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for anyone reading this in the future , its 66 bux for the 3 1200 mm 2020 rails to replace the stock ones
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZYLtech-2020-Aluminum-T-Slot-Aluminum-Extrusion-Black-1200mm-CNC-3D-Printer/322880748331?hash=item4b2d313b2b%3Ag%3AI50AAOSwX5ZbDD%7EN&_sacat=0&_nkw=1200mm+2020&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZYLtech-2020-Aluminum-T-Slot-Aluminum-Extrusion-Black-1200mm-CNC-3D-Printer/322880748331?hash=item4b2d313b2b%3Ag%3AI50AAOSwX5ZbDD%7EN&_sacat=0&_nkw=1200mm+2020&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0)
im almost positive these are the correct ones
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for anyone reading this in the future , its 66 bux for the 3 1200 mm 2020 rails to replace the stock ones
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZYLtech-2020-Aluminum-T-Slot-Aluminum-Extrusion-Black-1200mm-CNC-3D-Printer/322880748331?hash=item4b2d313b2b%3Ag%3AI50AAOSwX5ZbDD%7EN&_sacat=0&_nkw=1200mm+2020&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZYLtech-2020-Aluminum-T-Slot-Aluminum-Extrusion-Black-1200mm-CNC-3D-Printer/322880748331?hash=item4b2d313b2b%3Ag%3AI50AAOSwX5ZbDD%7EN&_sacat=0&_nkw=1200mm+2020&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0)
im almost positive these are the correct ones
Though I'm not positive, I think what you'll actually need are the v-slot extrusions:
https://www.amazon.com/V-Slot-Linear-Rail-1500mm-Length/dp/B00YCOQO5A (https://www.amazon.com/V-Slot-Linear-Rail-1500mm-Length/dp/B00YCOQO5A)
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looks the exact same in the pics.. im not sure
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looks the exact same in the pics.. im not sure
You need to check the printer wheels to know for sure:
(http://www.diy-india.com/static/images/other/tslot_vslot_example.png)
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very good point.. be best to have the kit in hand before choosing the rails.
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note to self..... keep these two separated.
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note to self..... keep these two separated.
ahhahahaa, wed have the first 2400MM 3d printer in the country (-'
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I've shot my Gauntlet at a few FT matches, including two AAFTA GP matches. It can group well enough but daya-to-day, and even lane-to-lane consistency is not what I want. I've tried running with no shroud, with tight barrel band, with loose barrel band. With only varying degrees of success. So I'm still trying. The main problem with the Gauntlet is the weak breech connection ahead of the magazine. There is none. Guns like the Marauder have a couple of screws that go down through the tall front section of breech and through the air tube, into the valve. That stiffens up the assembly considerably. I've considered doing something similar on my Gauntlet but that would involve some significant machine work. I'm trying another approach first. A "barrel band" that ties the shroud to the main air tube (rather than the less stable air tank).
3D model:
(http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/3D-Gauntlet-breech-brace-00.jpg)
Installation required draining the air and removing the tank block:
(http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/100_5301.JPG)
Very unobtrusive once installed:
(http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/100_5306.JPG)
It stiffens up the assembly considerably. I'll need to do some shooting over time to see if it improves the day-to-day consistency.
Below is a link to the STL file for anyone else that wants to try it. I have had some issues with PLA when leaving my gun case baking in the sun. So I have been switching to ABS which is more temperature resistant. I went with tight tolerances, so you may have to scale it up about 1% if you want a looser fit. Or you can sand it out a little after printing - that is what I did. You will also need (2) M3x16mm SCH cap screws and (2) M3 nuts.
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-breech-brace-00.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-breech-brace-00.stl)
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Scott,
That Looks GREAT !
It would be of my opinion to run the barrel floated from this clamp forward rather than still hanging onto the bottle which would IMO create movement potential.
* This is ... IF the barrel within shroud is also captive by the clamp ? If the barrels floated inside shroud your not really stiffening the barrel alignment to receiver/optics mounting.
JMO ...
Scott
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Testing an LDC adaptation for a gamo Urban. Drilled holes on the existing LDC. THen printed a 2 part square LDC to be glued to the existing LDC. For the front hole, I'll use a wrap tape so that it flexes slightly.
I did something similar to an Airmax varmint and it is one of the quietest LDC in the airgun collection
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Scott,
That Looks GREAT !
It would be of my opinion to run the barrel floated from this clamp forward rather than still hanging onto the bottle which would IMO create movement potential.
* This is ... IF the barrel within shroud is also captive by the clamp ? If the barrels floated inside shroud your not really stiffening the barrel alignment to receiver/optics mounting.
JMO ...
Scott
"If the barrels floated inside shroud your not really stiffening the barrel alignment to receiver/optics mounting."
In this case that is not the main goal. The object of this mod is to prevent the front of the breech from flexing upward.
I wanted to try something that was the least intrusive first. The best would be a brace that clamped directly to the barrel and main tube. And made of aluminum. But that would require some mods/changes to the shroud mounting/interface.
I would like to keep it a general purpose mod that will fit a standard Gauntlet. This one braces about an inch or so forward of the shroud mount. Directly around the shroud mount might be better. I have an idea for that without having to cut webs in the stock for clearance.
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Scott, Thanks for a great design and the STL file. I will be printing one out tonight.
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I had tested a printed hammer for my Gauntlet a few weeks ago. Originally, it was printed with PLA. It worked good but I knew that it was not really suitable for long term use. I wanted to print it out of POM (Acetal/Delrin), but after a number of unsuccessful attempts at getting POM to work, I decided to try PA (Nylon). I ran my printer near it's maximum temperature (260C), 100C bed, and a towel draped over to retain heat. It worked well enough. I made a 3/8" OD x 3/4" long PEEK insert and pinned it into the hammer. The cocking pin is held in place by an M5x8mm socket head cap screw installed from the back of the hammer. I designed in about 3mm additional hammer throw. The final hammer weight with insert is 21 grams. It's working good so far. I did not take any pictures before installing, but here are some pictures of the solid model:
(http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/gauntlet-hammer-00.jpg)
Cutaway of model:
(http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/gauntlet-hammer-02.jpg)
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I made some models of +/- 20 inserts for 30mm Burris Posi-Align rings.
I pick them up today from the guy with the printer...
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I need extra magazines for my B96 target pistol.If I sent you one,do you think you could make me a couple?What would you need to charge?Thank you for your time.Ted Gierke trumpet1946@wavecable
w
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I picked up a Creality Ender 3 printer a few weeks ago. Printing all the upgrade parts for the printer was my learning curve.
A couple days ago I knocked the single shot tray of my .22 FlashPup off my work table. My Siberian Husky thought it was for him, so chewed it up a bit.
Designed this yesterday to learn TinkerCAD, and it turned out pretty good/functional. Here's a link to it on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3267555 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3267555)
And here's how it looks.
(https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47574095_10156750780379847_6603708334396669952_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=e37d39fc0711ad95a7ff1894478dc328&oe=5CA8C5CC)
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I picked up a Creality Ender 3 printer a few weeks ago. Printing all the upgrade parts for the printer was my learning curve.
A couple days ago I knocked the single shot tray of my .22 FlashPup off my work table. My Siberian Husky thought it was for him, so chewed it up a bit.
Designed this yesterday to learn TinkerCAD, and it turned out pretty good/functional. Here's a link to it on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3267555 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3267555)
And here's how it looks.
(https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47574095_10156750780379847_6603708334396669952_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=e37d39fc0711ad95a7ff1894478dc328&oe=5CA8C5CC)
How are you liking the Ender so far? I picked one up a couple of months ago and love it. Still need to tweak it some, my circles aren't exactly round.
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So for $250, we could have a printer with which to attempt to print a full length stock.
WOW, what you guys are showing here in this thread is awesome! Great work!
So, there is hope for those few weirdos of us who really don’t like wooden stocks, and who think that in the 21st century wood should be reserved for living room furniture, because synthetic stocks are way more robust and look like “weapon” – not like “antique wall decoration”. ;D
There are so many bullpups that are not offered in synthetic.... Zbroia Kozak; Cometa Orion; Artemis P-10; P-12; P15; JKHAN Noblesse; Vulcan;
Reading and seeing what you guys have done gave me an idea for increasing our speed to set our elevation turret (for those who are clickers).
But for those distance+pellet calibrated turret bonnets I’ll better start a new thread. :)
Here: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=151974
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Hi all,
I've been working on single trays for all my FX rifles. I didn't really like the slot type going around because you can only feed them from one side. Being semi-ambidextrous, I like the option use either side. here is what I came up with for the Crowns. when in place, both sides present the same profiles.
I do all my 3d work in ViaCAD3Dv7 and print with an original all-thread Prusa built from a kit back in 2010.
nothing quite like getting a wild-hair in the morning and having it a reality by supper.
here's an assortment of my projects.
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Here is something else that I made recently. A portable spring compressor for my QB58. Mostly out of 3D printed parts. I used a grade8 1/2-13 nut inside a PLA frame. I used a 1/2-13 x 6" long coach bolt for the main screw. I have not tested it yet and may not get a chance for some time. I did a complete rebuild of my QB58 before this was finished. I have a Picatinny/Weaver adapter on my rifle, so I used a 1", one-piece scope mount to clamp to the gun.
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/spring-compressor-00.jpg)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/3D%20print/IMG_1631.JPG)
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nice design Scott.
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I have had a month off from work and am SO bored. I made a few things. The Scope objective thumb wheel is awesome. I have made dozens of mono-core prototypes and baffles. I think the Cheek riser for the Crosman stock is probably the most effective thing. I made a bottle mounted buttstock for my CF Condor bottle. I am not sure if the buttstock is a keeper though, it works but it's fugly. I made a slingshot that is super awesome but didn't include it in the pics since it off topic.
I have been a CAD operator for most of my "career" and I love messing around and designing. I will make almost anything you guys ask for as long it's kosher with the man. I don't have any multishot magazines but if someone wants a certain set up or a mag or SS tray, please contact me. Nothing would make me happier than to contribute to the scene.
I bought two 3D printers this past summer and few rolls of filament (stupid colors but it's what the nearest store had). I hope to get a few spools of black PLA to make more more professional looking parts. I made a magwell for a .22lr pistol that turned out fantastic. I wonder if the GTA mods would start a 3D printing gate.
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i am looking for a baffle desing to go in side a tube i/d will be around 1 3/4 its for building my own ldc
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i am looking for a baffle desing to go in side a tube i/d will be around 1 3/4 its for building my own ldc
I can't tell if it would work. Your drawing of the polygon does not give enough information. Show the complete design (preferably with dimensions) and someone might be able to answer the question.
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A couple more things for the gauntlet. Cheek piece wheel (nearly 1/2 lb weight off stock) and hammer cap adjuster.
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I saw on the news where a company has built the biggest printer in the world and is building houses with it. wow
Bon
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I was at a trade show in Las Vegas last year and during the show they printed an electric vehicle and at the end of the show they drove it out the door. Neat to watch it print!
Michael
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This is awesome. the things you guys are making. I have zero computer skills. I am sure I would smash my printer in a few hours of trying to build something. Glad you guys with skills are out there to make us things. lol
Bill C!
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I recently picked up an Ender 3, and a S200 ft. It came with a .22 barrel and a .177, but only had the .22 shot tray. Drew up a tray and it worked on my first try!
I'll be making a tray for my Rapid MK2 soon. I'm printing some baffles for a moderator right now. These things sure are handy.
Cam
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It amazes me, to no end, on now accurately you can produce a part after it is calibrated.
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Just got done with my Moderator/ shroud for my rapid MK2. Looks great and is super quiet, my AZ shroud was 5-6" longer than this and wouldn't fit in the safe.
Very impressed with these printers.
Cameron
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Cameron, that is an interesting cup design. What advantage does that design have over the Marauder K baffles?
Do you know the ratio between the calipers and the cups entrance hole?
Have you done any sound checks? I'm very interested because I'm trying to tame a .30 Mrod conversion and a .357 Evanix using the standard K baffles.
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Cameron, that is an interesting cup design. What advantage does that design have over the Marauder K baffles?
Do you know the ratio between the calipers and the cups entrance hole?
Have you done any sound checks? I'm very interested because I'm trying to tame a .30 Mrod conversion and a .357 Evanix using the standard K baffles.
Honestly the biggest advantage for me was the fact that they were fairly easy to draw.
They work great, I have purchased machined aluminum ones from eBay and these work just as well. It is very quiet, I don't have a decibel meter, but it is much much quieter than without the moderator.
Also the diameter of the tube is larger than a marauder shroud, mine is 28mm ID. I will do an accuracy test soon.
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Honestly the biggest advantage for me was the fact that they were fairly easy to draw.
They work great, I have purchased machined aluminum ones from eBay and these work just as well. It is very quiet, I don't have a decibel meter, but it is much much quieter than without the moderator.
Also the diameter of the tube is larger than a marauder shroud, mine is 28mm ID. I will do an accuracy test soon.
Thanks for the update, I think that I will give that a try and start with .020" greater than caliper diameter for the entrance hole. I'm trying to get my .30 down to less than 80 dB's.
There are some FREE dB cell phone apps that work very well.
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I've also done some recent shroud work for my custom Skyhawk. After switching to a longer barrel, I wanted to make it more backyard friendly. I did not want to modify or use the factory shroud. I printed a complete shroud with air baffles but the longest I could make is 12" (84db @3" from muzzle) so I ordered a 500mm long carbon tube and made a very long shroud (82db). That made the gun too long as I want to keep the overall gun length under 34". I ended up shortening the carbon tube to 398mm (83db). The green end caps are a press fit in the tube but I'll likely glue them as well. My tube is also 28mm OD.
Printed one piece printed shroud (sanded and painted flat black):
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/IMG_1879.JPG)
Printed two piece + 398mm long carbon tube:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/IMG_1880.JPG)
Various shroud designs:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/IMG_1881.JPG)
Cutaway showing air baffle design:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/skyhawk-baffle-00.jpg)
I bought an inexpensive DB meter (it looks a lot like my wind meter). Not sure if it is very accurate but it gives me a fairly consistent reference.:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/IMG_1883.JPG)
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Scott, that is a real nice classy setup.
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A rainy cold day so I decided to fabricate some baffles, like Camron's, to fit in a 1.250" aluminum tube. I just printed 2 and have 5 to go plus the end caps.
It's takes about 40 minutes per baffle. I'm hoping that they will work better than the Marauder type baffles.
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I’ve been running a couple Prusa I3 MK3S’ for a while.
Here’s the last thing I drew up and printed from PETG.
It’s a sliding top range/spare parts box with custom text for each rifle.
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One more part.
Here’s a QB78 riser breech.
Drawn up in Fusion 360. Printed from PETG with a .6 nozzle and a layer height of .3. Total print time is 4.5hrs. It’s more than strong enough for CO2 pressures with the way the transfer port is, but I don’t have a warm fuzzy feeling about going with HPA.
I have a repeater version that takes the Marauder magazines drawn up, but it still requires the barrel to have a nub machined, and I’m assuming the bolt would need to be thinned a little to fit through the magazine.
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The length of pull was a little too long on my Skyhawk, so I replaced the adjustable buttpad with a thinner/fixed version that I printed. Spacer is PLA 100% fill. Pad is flexible thermoplastic, 1.2mm walls, 15% fill.
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Skyhawk-BP-00.jpg)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Skyhawk-BP-01.jpg)
STL files - use as you see fit.
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-BP-00.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-BP-00.stl)
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-BP-spacer.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-BP-spacer.stl)
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Most all the fill stations that I encounter have a Foster fitting on the air line. I made this so I don't keep misplacing the probe. It keeps the probe attached to the gun. It also makes it easier to attach/detach the air line.
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Skyhawk-probeR-00.jpg)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Skyhawk-probeR-01.jpg)
STL files - use as you see fit.
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-probeR-00.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-probeR-00.stl)
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-probeR-01.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-probeR-01.stl)
You'll also need (2) M3x12mm long flat head fasteners, and (2) M3 nuts,
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I've been busy the past month, having fun drawing up things and printing.
1: shorty diffusers for my Prochrono
2: Grips and a stock for my wife's 1720t
3: valve removal tool for my CZ200 (regulator should be in next week or so)
4: First sttempt at a CZ200 FT stock. Need a few more tweaks but it is about 90% perfect. Very surprised it dropped in almost flawlessly.
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May be some profit to be had for someone making probe holders.
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My son got a great deal on a cheap CTC printer and my first print was this FX single shot swivel tray.
Found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3733163 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3733163)
Seems to work well so far.
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This turned out to be a much more involved/difficult than I had originally thought it would be. There were several iterations and multiple test prints of the various aspects of the design before the final print.
Final (most recent) CAD layout:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-02.jpg)
Final (most recent) solid model:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-00.jpg)
Slicer run:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-01.jpg)
It ended up OK. Could be improved even more but it's good enough to use now:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5291.JPG)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5292.JPG)
Your design is awesome, can you share your STL?
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This turned out to be a much more involved/difficult than I had originally thought it would be. There were several iterations and multiple test prints of the various aspects of the design before the final print.
Final (most recent) CAD layout:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-02.jpg)
Final (most recent) solid model:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-00.jpg)
Your design is awesome, can you share your STL?
The Gauntlet version is not a simple project, so you are on your own in printing/using the files. There are three other printed parts to the assembly. You will also need a M8X1.25, 40mm long hex bolt, nut and washer for the threaded adjuster.
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-09.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-09.stl)
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-0-10.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-0-10.stl)
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-1-10.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-1-10.stl)
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-2-10.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-2-10.stl)
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Awesome!
Thanks Scotchmo
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This turned out to be a much more involved/difficult than I had originally thought it would be. There were several iterations and multiple test prints of the various aspects of the design before the final print.
Final (most recent) CAD layout:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-02.jpg)
Final (most recent) solid model:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-00.jpg)
Slicer run:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-01.jpg)
It ended up OK. Could be improved even more but it's good enough to use now:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5291.JPG)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5292.JPG)
Your design is awesome, can you share your STL?
Love to have this setup on my Urban.
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Me too just for the riser alone. We would have to buy a EU stock to get the adjustable part then start designing and thats not in my interest.
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Happy New Year everyone! I'm posting here in the hopes of learning something! I have a Snapmaker 3-in-1 machine coming. I ordered it because of the reviews and it being sold as an entry level machine. I also want to learn how to carve images into the stocks of rifles, thus the decision to go with the Snapmaker over just a 3D printer.
Does anyone else have a Snapmaker? If so, any experience with the CNC Carving? That part does not appear to be integrated into the software that comes with the machine and requires the use of Fusion 360. I don't have the machine yet, but have installed the Snapmaker and Fusion 360 programs on my computer to play with before it arrives. I'll tell you, I am a total beginner at this, and that Fusion 360 program seems very complex and intimidating!
In any event, I hope to learn something from the rest of you guys and maybe someday be able make some airgun parts and even carve a nice wildlife relief onto the side of a wood stock!
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Does anyone else have a Snapmaker? If so, any experience with the CNC Carving? That part does not appear to be integrated into the software that comes with the machine and requires the use of Fusion 360. I don't have the machine yet, but have installed the Snapmaker and Fusion 360 programs on my computer to play with before it arrives. I'll tell you, I am a total beginner at this, and that Fusion 360 program seems very complex and intimidating!
In any event, I hope to learn something from the rest of you guys and maybe someday be able make some airgun parts and even carve a nice wildlife relief onto the side of a wood stock!
I don't have Snapmaker but it seems like a nice machine. I do have and use a Creatity CR10S 3D printer that I had for a few years and a CNC Mill. I agree that Fusion 360 does has a long learning curve but it is a very powerful program and does a great job of creating 3D print files from your designs. The best tool to learn Fusion 360 is YouTube.
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I prefer to use cura as my slicer.
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Does anyone else have a Snapmaker? If so, any experience with the CNC Carving? That part does not appear to be integrated into the software that comes with the machine and requires the use of Fusion 360. I don't have the machine yet, but have installed the Snapmaker and Fusion 360 programs on my computer to play with before it arrives. I'll tell you, I am a total beginner at this, and that Fusion 360 program seems very complex and intimidating!
In any event, I hope to learn something from the rest of you guys and maybe someday be able make some airgun parts and even carve a nice wildlife relief onto the side of a wood stock!
I don't have Snapmaker but it seems like a nice machine. I do have and use a Creatity CR10S 3D printer that I had for a few years and a CNC Mill. I agree that Fusion 360 does has a long learning curve but it is a very powerful program and does a great job of creating 3D print files from your designs. The best tool to learn Fusion 360 is YouTube.
do you do cam in 360 also ? ( i felt that the cam was easier than the cad to learn which is odd.. the Cad is very steep
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Does anyone else have a Snapmaker? If so, any experience with the CNC Carving? That part does not appear to be integrated into the software that comes with the machine and requires the use of Fusion 360. I don't have the machine yet, but have installed the Snapmaker and Fusion 360 programs on my computer to play with before it arrives. I'll tell you, I am a total beginner at this, and that Fusion 360 program seems very complex and intimidating!
In any event, I hope to learn something from the rest of you guys and maybe someday be able make some airgun parts and even carve a nice wildlife relief onto the side of a wood stock!
I don't have Snapmaker but it seems like a nice machine. I do have and use a Creatity CR10S 3D printer that I had for a few years and a CNC Mill. I agree that Fusion 360 does has a long learning curve but it is a very powerful program and does a great job of creating 3D print files from your designs. The best tool to learn Fusion 360 is YouTube.
do you do cam in 360 also ? ( i felt that the cam was easier than the cad to learn which is odd.. the Cad is very steep
No clue! I'm just starting out and am completely overwhelmed! LOL! Also, it seems there is a new version of Fusion 360 that was just recently released (within the past 6 months it appears), so none of the YouTube videos I have seen seem to be using the latest version. The names and placement of some of the menu options have changed, so it's difficult to follow along when what's on my screen doesn't match what's on YouTube!
I did figure out how to load the Snapmaker configuration file in Fusion 360, and I can find the bits in the tool section, but even after selecting one, I'm still being told I don't have a valid tool path. I don't even know what that means, so I have no clue how to fix it! I feel like I'm trying to follow along as my Granddaughter does new math! :o
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"it seems there is a new version of Fusion 360 that was just recently released (within the past 6 months "
open to being wrong, but IIRC there is a setting to put the interface back to the "classic look"
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"it seems there is a new version of Fusion 360 that was just recently released (within the past 6 months "
open to being wrong, but IIRC there is a setting to put the interface back to the "classic look"
That would be nice, if you know how, I'm open to trying it. It might make it easier for me to follow some of the tutorials! Thanks in advance!
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Paul , if youre brand new to 3d printing ,its not bad . get a 200 dollar machine , install cura on the desktop or laptop..The hard part is learning to draw your own parts.. Tinkercad makes life easy and you can be become proficient in a few weeks,., then export those drawings as STL and upload into cura for slicing .. it becomes easier the more u mess with it.. Cura has a bunch of machines memorized, so look for yours in the machine settings dropdown.., fusion is much harder to learn to draw in , might take a few months before u can draw anytjing worthwhile.. BUT its the better platform to learn longer term when u really get fancy and want internal odd pitch threeads in a print.
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Paul I use a premade Gcode that dose not heat up and print to level my bed it runs to 5 positions repeatedly. There may be one out there that works with your printer. I use a 4 and 2 thou feeler blades to level it cold in my experience first layer is what it is but more consistent bed level the better as the next 2 3 layers it wont matter any more. Caveat to that is knowing how to use a feeler blade because it is easy to stuff one in and think its good it needs to glide in with just a slight drag. I am on my second 3D printer and I am not the end all master but what I have learned along the way i watched a few vids then just did it my self.
Keep in mind its going to print at .2mm thick per layer as that is the average for 1.7mm filament out of a .4mm nozzle. So if your printer has a .4mm nozzle your best performance will be at a .2mm layer height 50mm a second head speed with 95-100% feed rate. Temps I find that hotter the better and I am using Overture filament which is very cheap off amazon and I run the max temps for the print head and print bed its where I am getting the best resolution.
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Paul , if youre brand new to 3d printing ,its not bad . get a 200 dollar machine , install cura on the desktop or laptop..The hard part is learning to draw your own parts.. Tinkercad makes life easy and you can be become proficient in a few weeks,., then export those drawings as STL and upload into cura for slicing .. it becomes easier the more u mess with it.. Cura has a bunch of machines memorized, so look for yours in the machine settings dropdown.., fusion is much harder to learn to draw in , might take a few months before u can draw anytjing worthwhile.. BUT its the better platform to learn longer term when u really get fancy and want internal odd pitch threeads in a print.
I had the opposite result. couldnt get _anything_ to draw in TinkerCard, but Fusion360 was almost intuitive when I opened it. Did wathc a BUNCH of vids before hand. There's also Sketchup, but I could never come to grips wiht it. Lots of cad programs out there, all will require some effort to learn, and some will bend yourwallet as much or more than a good airgun
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I've completed a couple lessons in Tinkercad, I do need to spend some more time on that. I was able to create a couple g-code files using Fusion 360. I have a relief of a bear and a fox to try on the CNC Carver once the machine arrives. I've also downloaded a couple items from Thingiverse to play with. One was baffles for a Talon SS. I have been able to resize them to hopefully fit in the can that came with my FX Crown Continuum, since there was noting in it! I'm hoping maybe 3-4 of these printer baffles will fit and it will quiet it down some more...
All these projects and I haven't even receive the machine yet! LOL! FedEx says it should be delivered next Wednesday!
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"it seems there is a new version of Fusion 360 that was just recently released (within the past 6 months "
open to being wrong, but IIRC there is a setting to put the interface back to the "classic look"
That would be nice, if you know how, I'm open to trying it. It might make it easier for me to follow some of the tutorials! Thanks in advance!
try this. its 4 months old, but might still work.
"you can revert back to a close approximation of the old toolbar by clicking on your username up in the right corner, selecting Preferences > General > and checking the very last checkbox -- "Use old toolbar UI." But supposedly this is for a limited time only, "
that from Reddit (who has a great 3d printing subs,a nd a great one for F360), the AutoDesk forums have a lot of great info, but they are deep and dense...... Google is yer friend, but my issue has always been WHAT to ask Google to get decnet results.....
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I just checked, unfortunately, "Use old toolbar UI." is not an option on the version I'm using. It's okay though, I have started to figure out that just some of the names have changed, but the locations and functions are still pretty much the same. Model is now Design and a few others changed as well, but the locations have remained the same so I'm able to follow along better than I was.
I've looked at the Autodesk forums, talk about difficult to navigate! That and I got chastised because I asked a question in my introduction! I was told there was a specific location for the topic I was asking about, unfortunately, not being an expert with Fusion, I couldn't figure out where that specific location was! What a bunch of snobby nerds!
I did find a good series of tutorials by Lars Christensen that I have found to be very helpful. Again, he's using an older version of Fusion, but he goes slow enough I can follow along and figure out what he's doing by watching the location of the menu items he selects. It would be easier if I was able to select the old menus and toolbars, but I'm slowly muddling through...
Thanks for the tips and suggestions!
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Wow what a warm bunch. I think I would sling it right back saying it must be nice born knowing everything when you were born or must be nice to forget what it was like to be new to this.
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in machining , cnc , 3d printing , there are a lot of ^*%$#@ contests and and people who will taker the opportunity to attack a newb , especially online.
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Personally I imagine them as a fat bum that wears glasses makes noises just breathing that hasn't bathed in 3 weeks and living in his moms basement surrounded by fast food containers. I don't really think that is true but it dose make me laugh as the only way they are a BA is behind a keyboard.
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Well for being a bunch of techno-nerd brainiacs, their forum is the worst I have ever visited! I guess they are too busy 3D printing dungeon and dragon toys to worry about designing a user friendly, usable forum!
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Paul,
I'm just barely ahead of you. I just got one of the small 3018 cnc machines so I can learn the workflow. One thing that has been useful, I made up some blocks of machinable wax. It cuts effortlessly and lets you practice and figure out what all the options do. I catch as much of the chips as I can and just remelt into a new piece. I got the recipe from the web but it is basically Paraffin and LDPE (#4: bottle tops, soft plastic bags etc.). For me the bottle tops work better than the bags for some reason. You want to melt it outside and the temperature gets hot so you have to stay below the flash point.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Machinable-Wax/ (https://www.instructables.com/id/Machinable-Wax/)
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Dont forget some times some routine maintenance will prevent headaches. I encountered this tonight. Lead to a clogged nozzle and hard to push the filimant through.
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Dont forget some times some routine maintenance will prevent headaches. I encountered this tonight. Lead to a clogged nozzle and hard to push the filimant through.
Same for me a couple days ago.
Filament had been getting difficult to retract. I started hearing periodic clicks and grinds and was getting prints with some layers only partially filled, and some layer separation.
I decided to check it out. But when attempting to disassemble, I found that the Teflon tube was stuck in place. I removed the nozzle and burned/cleaned it out. And then I turned on the hotend and got it up to 200 C. I was able to pull out the Teflon tube and use it to push the melted gunk out of the hotend passage while it was hot. I clipped off the buggered end of the Teflon tube and re-installed it, and also re-installed the clean nozzle. All good so far.
I suspect the Teflon tube was damaged in my attempts to print Nylon and Acetal. A couple of times, I ran it at higher then recommended temps.
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From my research with the ender3 this is a common problem and I had some capricorn PTFE tube and fittings to slam into it on hand so now all is well. I have some parts printing out for one customer as a sample then I have a prototype part for another to print out after that for another customer.
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Well, after some trial and a lot of error, I finally got some parts to print. I was able to successfully print 2 baffle that I had scaled to fit in the can that came with the Crown Continuum. The 3rd print messed up right at the end, but the baffle was still usable. So, now I have an expansion chamber and 3 30mm baffles in the can. I tested it today and it did quite it down a bit, there was no damage to the baffles and POI did not change! I'll call that success!
I also printed a 3D part designed to ease focusing the laser on the laser etcher module. For practice, I made two prints on some small chunk of 3" X 3" plywood. The turtle was for my wife and the logo for my Daughter, that's the logo for her Hair Salon in Georgia. I need to pick up some 2X4's and curve the surface to imitate a gun stock and then try laser etching something onto that...
Then, the last thing I need to try is the CNC Carving, but I'm a little hesitant because I don't want to set something wrong and drill through the bed! LOL!
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nice Paul , thats some fast progression u got going .. for the cnc , if your planning 1mm depth of cut lets say , start out with the bit zeroed a hair over the top of the wood.. this way , ur not gonna go too deep even if the settings are slightly off.. Also set the cut depth per pass to the lowest sertting in the program , generally thats about .2mm or .010 depending on the carve program
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nice Paul , thats some fast progression u got going .. for the cnc , if your planning 1mm depth of cut lets say , start out with the bit zeroed a hair over the top of the wood.. this way , ur not gonna go too deep even if the settings are slightly off.. Also set the cut depth per pass to the lowest sertting in the program , generally thats about .2mm or .010 depending on the carve program
Thanks Rob! The wood block I have is 12mm thick, and I had the depth set to 2mm with a cut depth per pass of .1mm. I think I should be okay, but I still have a bit of research to do on the set up before I attempt it. We are in for a rainy weekend, so probably will have time to play, since I doubt I'll get to shoot!
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Nice progress Paul!
I'm having Insanity print me out a single shot thing for the Evanix I found at Thingiverse.
The STL files are for .177 and .22
After I have one in the .22 I'll start editing the files for a .30 and hopefully a .50 cal version for my Guns.
I have plenty of 3D programs and converters to allow me to edit files.
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Thanks Jeff. I've been printing up a storm here lately! I have a barrel band to print for my Gauntlet, but all I have at the moment is white PLA filament, so need to order some black. I've printed a fence for the bed of my machine to help catch shaving when I CNC carve and also designed and printed a long nozzle for my small shop vac so I can not so good up the shaving as it carves. Since I have it inside, I'm trying not to make too big a mess!
I also designed and printed a try that hold the batter for my ATN Scope, it sits in my Cauldwell Dead Shot tripod and hold it nice and secure. I'm starting to get the hang of TinkerCad, and have been having fun designing a few things. I just did a new baffle for the FX Can, but haven't had a chance to print it yet... I think I'm becoming addicted to another hobby!
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One of my hobbies for YEARS has been 3D work.
Mostly stuff for Games that include AirCraft and Ships and such.
Mostly in the WWII era.
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Paul if you buy the overture brand filamat they send fresh print beds that you can cut down for your use. They are too small for my printer and I use a glass bed now. I could send the 2 I have out if you want them.
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Paul if you buy the overture brand filamat they send fresh print beds that you can cut down for your use. They are too small for my printer and I use a glass bed now. I could send the 2 I have out if you want them.
Matt, thank you! The bed on my machine is only 125mm by 125mm, what size are the print beds? Are they the stick on type? That's what my machine uses, it came with one extra, but it would be nice to have a couple spares. Thank you for your generosity!
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One of my hobbies for YEARS has been 3D work.
Mostly stuff for Games that include AirCraft and Ships and such.
Mostly in the WWII era.
Jeff, that sounds complex and probably well above my experience level, but they do sound really cool!
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Paul if you buy the overture brand filamat they send fresh print beds that you can cut down for your use. They are too small for my printer and I use a glass bed now. I could send the 2 I have out if you want them.
Matt, thank you! The bed on my machine is only 125mm by 125mm, what size are the print beds? Are they the stick on type? That's what my machine uses, it came with one extra, but it would be nice to have a couple spares. Thank you for your generosity!
See the picture I added and they are stick on.
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Paul if you buy the overture brand filamat they send fresh print beds that you can cut down for your use. They are too small for my printer and I use a glass bed now. I could send the 2 I have out if you want them.
Matt, thank you! The bed on my machine is only 125mm by 125mm, what size are the print beds? Are they the stick on type? That's what my machine uses, it came with one extra, but it would be nice to have a couple spares. Thank you for your generosity!
See the picture I added and they are stick on.
They look good to me, I guess as long as they are larger than 5” square they can be cut down to size. Just let me know what you need from me, I’ll gladly take them off your hands! Thanks again!
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Paul if you buy the overture brand filamat they send fresh print beds that you can cut down for your use. They are too small for my printer and I use a glass bed now. I could send the 2 I have out if you want them.
Matt, thank you! The bed on my machine is only 125mm by 125mm, what size are the print beds? Are they the stick on type? That's what my machine uses, it came with one extra, but it would be nice to have a couple spares. Thank you for your generosity!
See the picture I added and they are stick on.
They look good to me, I guess as long as they are larger than 5” square they can be cut down to size. Just let me know what you need from me, I’ll gladly take them off your hands! Thanks again!
PM me your address and Ill let you know.
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PM me your address and Ill let you know.
PM sent! Thank you!
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Matt printed out a prototype single shot tray for the Evanix today and delivered it to me.
Our plan is to do them for the .30 and up Evanix
Having the solid prototype in hand I am now working on adjusting the design in 3D.
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From what we discussed these should work better than trying to single load by hand or sticking 1 slug in a mag at a time.
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paul , still waiting to see a carving ... Ill show u one of mine , lemme upload the pic
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paul , still waiting to see a carving ... Ill show u one of mine , lemme upload the pic
Rob, I haven't tried a carving yet, I hope to have some time this weekend to experiment. Looking forward to seeing what you've done!
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From what we discussed these should work better than trying to single load by hand or sticking 1 slug in a mag at a time.
Exactly! I only need to refine the golden ratios.
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heres something i made for my daughters room , nothing complicated... its recycled aluminum ingot , made from beer cans and car rims.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49386896202_81383a4e43_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2if9KCo)20200114_154300_HDR (https://flic.kr/p/2if9KCo) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
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That is very cool!
However.
Had I done the same for my daughter when she was young?
I'd have had to listen to her say,
"So you took parts from a hoopty then your beer cans to make that? Your not a good dad!!"
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lol, thankfully she can just say " juice " and " NO " for now.
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My daughter stopped talking to me years ago.
:(
I'd actually love her to just call me and say juice or no.
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well, if shes an adult she will realize you only get 2 parents.. ( hopefully
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Did some AXA tool holders.
Nothing fancy, but they are definitely functional.
Printed from Atomic Filament carbon fiber reinforced PETG.
These were based off of ones I found on Thingiverse that were designed to be held with a wood screw. I wanted to be able to move mine around if needed.
2020 extrusion mounted to the lathe splash guard with M5x15mm machine screws with hammer nuts in the channel.
Tool holders have a tab that fits into the extrusion channel. Held in with a M3x40mm machine screw with a hammer nut in the channel. 1/4 turn loosens the holder so it can be moved around if needed.
Still need to make end caps for the extrusion eventually.
It’s a lot of tool holders, but I hate swapping tools in and out of them, and I’m a hoarder so...
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heres something i made for my daughters room , nothing complicated... its recycled aluminum ingot , made from beer cans and car rims.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49386896202_81383a4e43_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2if9KCo)20200114_154300_HDR (https://flic.kr/p/2if9KCo) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
That looks nice! You're motivating me to give it a try! Thanks...
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Did some AXA tool holders.
Nothing fancy, but they are definitely functional.
Printed from Atomic Filament carbon fiber reinforced PETG.
These were based off of ones I found on Thingiverse that were designed to be held with a wood screw. I wanted to be able to move mine around if needed.
2020 extrusion mounted to the lathe splash guard with M5x15mm machine screws with hammer nuts in the channel.
Tool holders have a tab that fits into the extrusion channel. Held in with a M3x40mm machine screw with a hammer nut in the channel. 1/4 turn loosens the holder so it can be moved around if needed.
Still need to make end caps for the extrusion eventually.
It’s a lot of tool holders, but I hate swapping tools in and out of them, and I’m a hoarder so...
i gotta do something like this , i got tool holders alll over the place.. its like a juggling act.
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Paul , thats good .. stick to wood on the small machine though.. Metals are very unforgiving ..
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I'm hoping someone with a Benjamin Armada and 3d printer will see this. I would like to have an armada barrel band implemented into the factory one that just goes into the end of the fore grip. I think it would benefit from a tighter fitting one like Tim does for the marauder. It would definitely stop the POI from shifting around. I already have a semi solution to the issue. I have some of the camo wrap around the shroud and it is pretty snug on the inside of the fore end grip. But an actual fabricated piece would be very cool.
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I'm hoping someone with a Benjamin Armada and 3d printer will see this. I would like to have an armada barrel band implemented into the factory one that just goes into the end of the fore grip. I think it would benefit from a tighter fitting one like Tim does for the marauder. It would definitely stop the POI from shifting around. I already have a semi solution to the issue. I have some of the camo wrap around the shroud and it is pretty snug on the inside of the fore end grip. But an actual fabricated piece would be very cool.
i think INSANITY does printing for hire.. you can PM him , but youd need a comprehensive drawing im sure.
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I would have to purchase one from Crosman or send him mine and have my gun down. That's why I was hoping someone who owns an armada and was into 3D printing seen the post lol. I've recently even thought about eliminating the fore end guard altogether and running one of Tim's. Or cutting it down some would allow the same results.
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I dont have the armada stock but a drawling and mesurments I can do something with.
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I dont have the armada stock but a drawling and mesurments I can do something with.
Says the Guy what can't speel.
LOL!
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Numbers are easier to deal with than letters.
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One more functional print for the lathe.
Made a collar for a tailstock DRO. I’ve done these out of aluminum once and steel once, but I didn’t want to deal with all the work this time. All the ones in the past blocked my ball oilers, so I set out to keep them easily accessible.
I looked at putting the scale on the back of the tailstock, but the barrel lock gets in the way. The top would require me to remove the scale every time I needed to oil the tailstock, so the front it was.
The collar is split, and then tightened on the barrel of the tailstock with a single through screw. It’s thick and wide for strength and surface bearing area. Also, no shimming or anything else to screw the DRO slide on. It takes up a little room on the barrel, but all my drill chucks have room to eject normally.
This one was printed with a .6 nozzle using Atomic carbon fiber PETG. So far PETG has stood up to every oil I use in the shop, so I expect the same out of this part. 4 wall thickness. 50% 3D honeycomb infill. All hardware is M3, but it looks like I need to upsize the screw that actually holds the slide on the collar.
I’m not sure where I actually want to mount the display yet. It’s magnetic, so it can be moved anywhere, but for now I’ll see how it works where it is in the photos.
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That is cool I wasn't aware you could get simple DROs like that.
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That is cool I wasn't aware you could get simple DROs like that.
I think they usually sell them as milling machine quill DROs.
This ones a mash up of a Grizzly kit and an Igauging Kit. The Grizzly scale fit better, but the Iqauging display was much nicer.
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I never really liked the fact the spool was on top of the printer. I have it stuck in my head that the added weight up top can affect print quality buy flexing the frame. My next mod may be adding a second screw on the other side to help support the carriage on the off side. I have some stepper motors that I can use to drive it but I really think a belt and cog setup will be easier.
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I had a print malfunction so yesterday I replaced my nozzle and releveld my bed. Also after talking some 3D printing stuffs with another member I bumped my layer height from .2mm to .3mm I see no discernible difference in visual aspect.
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I picked up a arduino uno and some jumper wires today at microcenter. I need that so that I can upload a boot loader and flash it with a better firmware that includes a nice run away heat safety feature and it adds in some added tuning parameters.
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This turned out to be a much more involved/difficult than I had originally thought it would be. There were several iterations and multiple test prints of the various aspects of the design before the final print.
Final (most recent) CAD layout:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-02.jpg)
Final (most recent) solid model:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-00.jpg)
Slicer run:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/Gauntlet-cheek-01.jpg)
It ended up OK. Could be improved even more but it's good enough to use now:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5291.JPG)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5292.JPG)
interesting, i like it
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Here is a small project from today. A single shot loader for my Armada. I've been testing the .22 JSB Beast pellets and they are too long for the magazine. I got tired of loading with tweezers:
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Armada/IMG_2425.JPG)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Armada/IMG_2426.JPG)
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Armada/IMG_2423.JPG)
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Very nice design.
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Im seriously considering a 3d gate or child gate. Ive been 3d printing from day 1 when they became available commercialy and own several printers now. havt to figure out how we can save STL. files on here to share.
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Have to figure out how we can save STL files on here to share.
That would be awesome!
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Im seriously considering a 3d gate or child gate. Ive been 3d printing from day 1 when they became available commercialy and own several printers now. havt to figure out how we can save STL. files on here to share.
couldn't the stl file be zipped up in a .zip, or .7z, or even .rar?
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Im seriously considering a 3d gate or child gate. Ive been 3d printing from day 1 when they became available commercialy and own several printers now. havt to figure out how we can save STL. files on here to share.
couldn't the stl file be zipped up in a .zip, or .7z, or even .rar?
When I DL a file from thingiverse its a .zip file. If I were more apt I could at least design a SST for at least a DAR .25. I have access to a new DAR .25...
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This is a test. I have attached a 3D STL File for a Gauntlet Breech Brace. This attaches to the breech and the barrel like the way the new Gauntlets are now coming. It has really helped my 1st Gen Gauntlet. The file is attached as a .zip file.
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i can see the file and a folder inside the zip for mac. don't have software installed for .stl file and recognized as a certificate trust list on my end.
edit:
I did get it to open in google sketch up after adding in a plugin. it does work.
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This is a test. I have attached a 3D STL File for a Gauntlet Breech Brace. This attaches to the breech and the barrel like the way the new Gauntlets are now coming. It has really helped my 1st Gen Gauntlet. The file is attached as a .zip file.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143205.msg1488782#msg1488782 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143205.msg1488782#msg1488782)
Why zip the file when it's fairly small? Just link to the STL file directly, and let the user download it.
www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-breech-brace-00.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-breech-brace-00.stl)
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This is a test. I have attached a 3D STL File for a Gauntlet Breech Brace. This attaches to the breech and the barrel like the way the new Gauntlets are now coming. It has really helped my 1st Gen Gauntlet. The file is attached as a .zip file.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143205.msg1488782#msg1488782 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143205.msg1488782#msg1488782)
Why zip the file when it's fairly small? Just link to the STL file directly, and let the user download it.
www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-breech-brace-00.stl (http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-breech-brace-00.stl)
The premise is to upload it to the forum not a 3rd party like thingiverse, more particularly files we design our selves. If its on TV I will just link it but if I desighn it and want to share only here I would like that as a option.
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That works too! LOL! But, if someone doesn't have it hosted on line somewhere, then a zip file can be uploaded as an attachment where just the .STL file can't.
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That works too! LOL! But, if someone doesn't have it hosted on line somewhere, then a zip file can be uploaded as an attachment where just the .STL file can't.
OK - I was not aware of the limitation on file types. zip it is.
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Im seriously considering a 3d gate or child gate. Ive been 3d printing from day 1 when they became available commercialy and own several printers now. havt to figure out how we can save STL. files on here to share.
A child gate for the NC stuff (3D print and CNC) that covers both machines and projects would be great. Maybe a sticky for collecting model info/files people want to share.
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I’d bet there’s an “Approved” file list somewhere in the forum software that could be modified to include .stl files
thst might be the easiest way....
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The Downside to 3d stuff is the seemingly infinite number of selections the slicer -Cura 3.6 in my case- gives you. I printed these “cubes” with tje infill patterns i use the most.
really helps visualize the who-what-where of using those patterns in yer models
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Actually, the .zip approach that Thingiverse uses that includes an image and brief description/slicer settings works well.
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The Downside to 3d stuff is the seemingly infinite number of selections the slicer -Cura 3.6 in my case- gives you. I printed these “cubes” with tje infill patterns i use the most.
really helps visualize the who-what-where of using those patterns in yer models
Downside? I consider it an upside.
I use Cura 15.04.6 (the simple version). So my infills are simple grids. I usually use either a 20% grid or solid infill.
I have the more sophisticated version of Cura, but it's slower and the simple one does most everything I need.
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I too use 15 04 06.. thats too funny ,and yes its very efficient .
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I am using cura 4.5.0 and a lot of the features I don't use but have been slowly getting into some of the more fine tuning just to see what happens. I still have to flash my printer so I can make fine adjustments on it also and add in some features you get with the newer ones.
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Very much thinking about getting this printer to go with my other to keep them company LOL
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJQHZ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8DKO6HP8H5CQ&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJQHZ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8DKO6HP8H5CQ&psc=1)
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The Downside to 3d stuff is the seemingly infinite number of selections the slicer -Cura 3.6 in my case- gives you. I printed these “cubes” with tje infill patterns i use the most.
Downside? I consider it an upside.
meh, all perspective. i say the same thing about Photoshop and my video editing programs. Cura at least gives you the option of not displaying stuff yer not using. :)
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Very much thinking about getting this printer to go with my other to keep them company LOL
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJQHZ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8DKO6HP8H5CQ&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJQHZ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8DKO6HP8H5CQ&psc=1)
I've got an older Anycubic Delta that I'm please with. That FLSUN that you linked is bigger, but Anycubic also has a newer, bigger Delta printer. Take a look at it for comparison:
https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-predator-fdm-printer (https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-predator-fdm-printer)
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Very much thinking about getting this printer to go with my other to keep them company LOL
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJQHZ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8DKO6HP8H5CQ&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJQHZ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8DKO6HP8H5CQ&psc=1)
I've got an older Anycubic Delta that I'm please with. That FLSUN that you linked is bigger, but Anycubic also has a newer, bigger Delta printer. Take a look at it for comparison:
https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-predator-fdm-printer (https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-predator-fdm-printer)
455 z , that's a monster and reasonably priced
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Very much thinking about getting this printer to go with my other to keep them company LOL
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJQHZ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8DKO6HP8H5CQ&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJQHZ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8DKO6HP8H5CQ&psc=1)
I have that one and it's been absolutely trouble free. I did initially have a problem with it talking to my Mac, but found it much easier to just save my G-Code files to the SD card and just print from it. I don't know which one you current have, but I think you'll like it!
I also have the original Snapmaker and have had a lot of bed adhesion problems with it. I have had no issues at all with the FLSUN.
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heres the tallest delta im aware of at a reasonable price
https://www.amazon.com/HE3D-Printer-Printing-280X600mm-Heating/dp/B076FT5RQK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=600mm+delta&qid=1587298759&s=industrial&sr=1-1 (https://www.amazon.com/HE3D-Printer-Printing-280X600mm-Heating/dp/B076FT5RQK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=600mm+delta&qid=1587298759&s=industrial&sr=1-1)
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Has anyone modeled / printed a 2289 backpacker forearm yet? I'd buy one. Can't seem to find them anymore.
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No, but if you find the .STL file for one, I'll print you one for free! ;D
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Here ya go gang! https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=250.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=250.0)
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No, but if you find the .STL file for one, I'll print you one for free! ;D
Thanks for the offer! So all I have to do is find the file? Hmm, wonder where on earth one would find it. I did look on Thingiverse, grabcad, 3dmdb, and yeggi for a while. Nada. Wow, some of these sites have atrocious search engines. No selectivity, don't support - or not.
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No, but if you find the .STL file for one, I'll print you one for free! ;D
Thanks for the offer! So all I have to do is find the file? Hmm, wonder where on earth one would find it. I did look on Thingiverse, grabcad, 3dmdb, and yeggi for a while. Nada. Wow, some of these sites have atrocious search engines. No selectivity, don't support - or not.
LOL! Yea, I tried searching those as well and came up empty handed. Hopefully, someone may find one and post it, I know I could use a couple of them!
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I think thingiverse has gotten worse with their new search layout. Some times I have better luck with a google search if it exists then it will find it or at least help you find it easier.
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Could you please design a fatty forearm for the P1322 that looks like one for the backpacker
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That would be a popular item
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This is my latest moderator. The baffles are designed to push high pressure air around the bends to a larger volume of space, diverting the air around corners and out the holes in the baffle and eventually going out the hole in the back of the moderator. I've used carbon fibre tubes for the housing and the back end accepts a 1/2 unf bushing.
IMO having bleed holes in the moderator makes it quieter from the muzzle end. Because if you can bleed off as much air before the pellet goes out the muzzle the better.
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I think thingiverse has gotten worse with their new search layout. Some times I have better luck with a google search if it exists then it will find it or at least help you find it easier.
The new layout is horrible, it took several attempts to introduce the new layout, but the search function is junk, it takes forever to find things, if they can even be found.
I still find stuff to print.
I don’t even mind the ads, could they have added advertisements without compromising the ability to find stuff.
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I think thingiverse has gotten worse with their new search layout. Some times I have better luck with a google search if it exists then it will find it or at least help you find it easier.
The new layout is horrible, it took several attempts to introduce the new layout, but the search function is junk, it takes forever to find things, if they can even be found.
I still find stuff to print.
I don’t even mind the ads, could they have added advertisements without compromising the ability to find stuff.
The easiest way to search Thingiverse is to use the Google advanced_search page (too new to post links but google dot com/advanced_search)
Search for item in 'all these words:' then thingiverse dot com down at the lower part of the page 'site or domain:' then click advanced search button.
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Finally getting around to some minor upgrades on my CP1. The trigger guard was a little tight and the base was proud of the grip so it interfered with my finger. So I stretched it and reduced the base height. Now a little paint
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Groot printed on My Delta using Rainbow pastel PLA today.
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This for a customer. It's the highest I ever had to print on this printer I say it turned out well.
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12 Monkeys?
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Yes.
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No joke. I was finishing the TV series 12 Monkeys on Hulu just as Corona started making waves in China. Talk about art imitating life!
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Thanks guys. Following.
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Dang it Matt! That was a secret project!
LOL
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Well somebody is going to have to go back and fix it :-X
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Dang it Matt! That was a secret project!
LOL
Lol you were annomus till now.
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Anyone have ideas about a Daystate magazine holder (3-6 magazines)? Great to see some ideas, but since I cant get to the library to print, perhaps I can purchase a few.
Thanks,
JT
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If you can supply a file Im sure one of us will be happy to print one out for you.
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I've seen a couple different .STL files posted for a speed loader for the large capacity FX Impact magazines, anyone seen any for the new side load style Crown and Dreamline magazines?
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Does anyone have a RTI Priest 2 looking for a 3D printed Single Shot Mag and an adjustable Cheek Riser For a Lefty
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Now if someone would do an affordable magazine breech for 22xx and 13xx guns ;)
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https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=2240+magazine&type=things&sort=relevant (https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=2240+magazine&type=things&sort=relevant)
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I have printed that mag and it dont work all that great.
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https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=2240+magazine&type=things&sort=relevant (https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=2240+magazine&type=things&sort=relevant)
I'm talking about a breech that will accpept a MRod mag.
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Matt, which one did you try?
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Both.
This one worked ok but jammed up a lot.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3214381 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3214381)
This one there is a stem on the internal rotor that breaks easy and I printed it in several orientations to make it strong. I sent several replacements to my customer who bought it and it broke after a few cycles every time.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3116633 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3116633)
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Thanks,
I wonder if a thread for Thingiverse fails (airgun related) would be useful.
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FX Wildcat Butt Hook. My design and print. It's actually my first ever design, so I am pretty pleased with the outcome. :)
As you will see, there was a lot of DOE to get the base of the butt plate to match the actual shape of the Wildcat butt, but only 8 attempts.
NAIAD
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Being a lefty and far away from people/companies that make grips, I've done a few conversions myself, where I use MeshRoom with around 30 photos of the original grips, to capture them using photogrammetry.
I then use Blender to clean things up a little.
So far I've done the Daisy 747, and Webley Tempest, working on the Gamo Compact and Baikal.
I'm also quite proud of the PP700S-A silencer I made, as it incorporates a fill-port dust-cover slide.
(takes it down from ~108 dB to ~93 dB on my 10J limited pistol)
And finally I made some mounts for the Crosman 1377 which are easy to snap on and off.
As well as another set for my first ever airgun, a second-hand generic no-name underlever, that had no sights at all.
I'm "noshbar" on Thingiverse and "dirkderkdurk" on MyMiniFactory, should anyone want to download any of them.
Thanks everyone for sharing what you've made!
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Thank you for sharing that Dirk!
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Just finished a new
LDC LDragonC...I still need to add a pin front sight.
Commenting "he has too much time on his hands" is probably fair. ::)
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Oh wow, that LDragonC is super impressive work! I assume you painted instead of dual-filament, right?
I was thinking of making some decorative ones myself, but went DeadPool instead of class.
Really nice going.
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Thanks, It is a remix of a thingiverse art piece. Printed red and removed the paint from the highlights.
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I should have joined this forum earlier there are some great ideas and prints here!
Let me show and share one of my ownIt's a 6 slug holder for a Dragon Claw .50 PCP making reloading so much faster! It's mounted on a "Hawke 11 - 22mm Adapter 137mm"
Post-print settings material ABS (PLA wont work) nylon would also work. Layer height 0.1 or smaller if you can.I hope the pictures and file will show it's the first time i use the build in attachment function here ;) The last picture shows how to cut off the 'stem' from the base making the C shaped slug holders come free. Because these will become stuck when printing and needs to be separated to make it work properly.
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Very handy thanks for sharing!
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I should have joined this forum earlier there are some great ideas and prints here!
Let me show and share one of my ownIt's a 6 slug holder for a Dragon Claw .50 PCP making reloading so much faster! It's mounted on a "Hawke 11 - 22mm Adapter 137mm"
Post-print settings material ABS (PLA wont work) nylon would also work. Layer height 0.1 or smaller if you can.I hope the pictures and file will show it's the first time i use the build in attachment function here ;) The last picture shows how to cut off the 'stem' from the base making the C shaped slug holders come free. Because these will become stuck when printing and needs to be separated to make it work properly.
very cool! and useful...
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I'm designing/building a breech for an Armada. It will eventually be aluminum via a lost PLA process. In the mean time, I tested it after 3D printing a 100% infill PLA+ version. It is a single load design with full .218" porting for a .22 barrel. I tested it yesterday with a Cothran Powerhouse valve. I got 1156fps (101 fpe) at 3000psi with 34gr JSB .22 Jumbo Beast pellets. I shot it a couple dozen times and the PLA actually seems to do fine. I hope to test the aluminum casting in a couple of weeks.
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Wow, I'm beyond impressed with what you guys have come up with! My contribution is a magazine, baffle core, and probe cap for my Gamo Urban.
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Both.
This one worked ok but jammed up a lot.
(Apparently I can't even quote this because I'm not allowed to post external links...)
I printed one of these. It feeds JSB Jumbo Heavy's probably 4/5 times, everything else I have on hand jams. The Heavy's are the only ones (that I have) that are big enough not to spin sideways and jam in the channel through the gate. Even with those, it doesn't lock to the breech firmly, so the bolt shoves it around some and that also causes feed issues. Plus I'm not super thrilled about the bolt being used to push up the gate and dragging the breech o-ring across the bottom of the gate over and over. It's not a terrible idea, but rotary mags avoid the issues it has. Plus those don't scrape the probe, and usually have a magnet, flange, slot, something, to keep them firmly aligned with the barrel.
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Made an underslung moderator for my Webley Nemesis. With it attached, it's so quiet you'd think it was out of CO2 if the targets weren't getting hit. ;D
At some point I'm going to shorten it and see how much I can get away with and stay quiet, maybe even make a .22 version. It's printed without threads and a 1/2-20 UNF tap to finish. Might add threads to the model...but I suspect it'll still benefit from tapping to make a clean connection to the barrel.
STL, and Fusion3D design files are on Thingiverse. (I'd post a link, but I'm 'too new' and it won't let me...)
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I made a hose holder and fill adapter protector combo for my china pump. I only have one pcp rifle so the fill adapter was going to stay on the pump all the time anyway -- why not kill two birds with one stone?
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Looks good gents thanks for sharing.
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New barrel clamp for my cheapo Chinese chronograph. Much better than the metal bracket that came with it.
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Could anyone here be talked into making a .172 slug wheel to fit inside a .25 mrod mag?
I don’t yet even have a loading tray and little slugs are hard to get started in the cold.
I use my airguns to put food on the table and a magazine can greatly increase the amount of grouse I get and the time it takes to get them.
P.m. for specifics?
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Grips for my Crosman Vigilante. Drilled and tapped the frame for a 6-32 bolt. Only one side needs to come off to replace the cartridge. The grip doesn’t cover the backstrap like the factory one which reduces the trigger reach. The angle and thickness is more like my powder burning pistols and has a fiber front sight to match as well.
Quite a few failed models that didn’t quite fit and then some errors of a wandering drill bit on the first hole in the frame and broke the tap in the second hole trying to do it too fast. But I like the end result.
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Nice mod thanks for sharing.
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Here is a moderator I designed for a 1377. It clamps around the barrel in front and behind the front sight post and locates on both diameters. The front site sticks thru just enough to still be able to be used.
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Current project right now is to try and make some screw adjustable sights for a 1377. We’ll see if I can make them work. I have it laid out to use some 4-40 bolts and nuts and some small springs but we’ll see if I can get the tolerances and gaps right between the moving surfaces.
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Finally managed to pinch my hand pumping my 1377, decided a fatter grip would be nice, too cheap to pay for a wooden one, so...
I'm thinking of making the grip a bit wider, maybe further back for even more leverage. As soon as I can figure out where I got the base forearm model from (so I can properly credit them) I'll throw it up on Thingiverse.
The one in the pic is PLA+, has been used for a few hundred rounds, so a few thousand pumps so far without issue.
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I designed and printed the stock, adjustable cheek piece, adjustable shoulder piece, hamster, bottel/bipod adapter
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that looks awesome nice work
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Brilliant! Awesome owrk!
how long did it take to print?
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Scope wheel for my BSA 6-24x44 SF scope. Top has reduced radius to be level with top turret for storage. Full radius from 10 yds to 100 yards. Locational interference fit to the side focus knob, 1 set screw to secure.
Vertically adjustable butt-plate (dovetail interface). The upper buttpad screw serves as the locator, engaging holes at 8mm intervals. Loosen it, slide to new position (see alignment marks on right side), then tighten.
Both designed by me (SolidWorks), printed in ASA on a Fortus 380mc.
Btw. Also has an aluminum target-style trigger shoe that I designed and machined myself.
JMJinNC
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Nicely done John.
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Yes, nicely done.
Dave
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Did theses the other day Weihrauch HW100 .22 cal mags and today some HW100 .20 cal mags, the new printer works great.
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Looks good!
What material are you using?
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Looks good!
What material are you using?
Hatchbox PLA.
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Printed a front rest adapter. My Akela has a rounded forestock that is a lot narrower than my Caldwell Rock Jr. front rest. This provides a flatter interface, and the small wings allow me to push into the rest a bit.
Single screw to mount, easy to put on and take off. It is curved to match the forestock and has flocking tape to prevent pressure marks.
JMJinNC
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Very nice thanks for sharing!
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Looks good!
What material are you using?
Hatchbox PLA.
thanks
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I took the original syock off my Nova Vista Liberty, and fitted this new tactical idea. All parts printed with PETG except for the two side plates with my logo on them.
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I took the original syock off my Nova Vista Liberty, and fitted this new tactical idea. All parts printed with PETG except for the two side plates with my logo on them.
That's a good looking Liberty, Nice job... ;)
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Brackets for air/moisture filter.
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Nifty is that your design or one you found?
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My design. Willing to share
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my airbolt o-ring nock design
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Been a while and learning Fusion. here are a few things I'm working on. Did a custom picatinny mount that goes between trigger and fore stock on Airforce guns. And currently .25 cal 15 shot rotary pellet holder. A few 11mm Airforce rail to picatinny mounts.
And my, under development of a fully adjustable impact butt hook. it also has a monopod Hole in bottom for 3/8" rod. Currently having some bed adhesion issues about halfway into the main body of the impact hook. trying to sort the cause. all my other parts adhere with no problem
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Printed this mount for the holosun red dot on the Ataman AP16.
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Printed this mount for the holosun red dot on the Ataman AP16.
Wow, that looks really nice! Much cleaner than the Picatinny to dovetail adapter I have for my AP16!
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Tried my hand at printing some .22 hyper velocity lead free diabolo pellets with zinc coated steel BB tips. Thus far the outlook is very good. They weigh in at 7.2gr and hit easily as hard as pure lead pellets, though the force is concentrated on the 4.5mm BB rather than the 5.5mm lead pellet face. I'm still playing with the specifics but so far they work. The BBs do not touch the barrel, only the plastic diabolo does.
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Wonder how they will do I have seen people print pellets but with no real success.
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So far my biggest issue has been keeping the BB in the cup of the pellet at loading. Throughout the process I have loaded many a non-glued pellet in the single shot tray only to hear the BB immediately come off and rattle down inside my suppressor. I have been printing various sizes to try to get it to the point that I do not need to superglue the BB in place since it is designed for the BBs to "snap" in and stay.
On an amusing note, the magnets in my .22 PCP gun breech areas keep these pellets from dropping off the single shot trays. I can turn my guns upside down with a pellet sitting on the tray and they just hang there, so when I finally have everything tuned correctly I won't have to worry about dropping ammo in the woods while loading.
small update: Just tried out my latest print with my Umarex Origin against the steel side of an old copy machine, nothing technical since it's cold and dark out but I wanted to see what it could do. CPHPs just flatten out and leave a dent. These things punch straight through and make a decidedly non-backyard friendly bang like a 22LR, likely due to going way past the sound barrier.
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Printed this mount for the holosun red dot on the Ataman AP16.
Wow, that looks really nice! Much cleaner than the Picatinny to dovetail adapter I have for my AP16!
Thanks! Its not my design though, I got it off thingiverse. Having the sight at the rear feels more natural while aiming and it also gives a cleaner profile to the gun.
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Printed this mount for the holosun red dot on the Ataman AP16.
Wow, that looks really nice! Much cleaner than the Picatinny to dovetail adapter I have for my AP16!
Thanks! Its not my design though, I got it off thingiverse. Having the sight at the rear feels more natural while aiming and it also gives a cleaner profile to the gun.
Thank you! I found it on Thingiverse and will give it a try. I don't have a Halosun red dot, but do have a Tricon, hopefully they mount the same.
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Airforce Butt pad is my latest creation
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Looks good Dan!
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Airforce Butt pad is my latest creation
Looks good. What material? I've used medium soft TPU for a butt pad and it works well.
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Airforce Butt pad is my latest creation
Looks good. What material? I've used medium soft TPU for a butt pad and it works well.
I use PETG for all my airgun stuff. Haven't messed with TPU yet. Heard it stinks and a lot of what I do needs strength.
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Airforce Butt pad is my latest creation
Looks good. What material? I've used medium soft TPU for a butt pad and it works well.
I use PETG for all my airgun stuff. Haven't messed with TPU yet. Heard it stinks and a lot of what I do needs strength.
I typically use PLA/PLA+ for strength and ABS for better heat resistance. I have not noticed any objectionable smell with TPU but I only use it on rare occasions as it works well as a substitute for rubber.
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Here is a project that my friend John Bergquist and I did. An auto-reset mechanism for GAMO and Umarex field targets. It eliminates the pull strings that are normally used to reset the targets, and it has audio feedback when knocked down to add some fun to the game. Most of them have a small built-in speaker but some use external PA speakers so they can be heard from a long distance. A small 7.4v lithium battery gives about 400 cycles between recharges. Units that are left out indefinitely have small solar panels to keep the batteries charged. John did the initial breadboard design and all of the electronics and I did the mechanical parts in mostly PLA.
Single unit test:
http://www.scotthull.us/videos/gamo-auto-00.mp4 (http://www.scotthull.us/videos/gamo-auto-00.mp4)
Battery life cycle test setup:
http://www.scotthull.us/videos/gamo-auto-01.mp4 (http://www.scotthull.us/videos/gamo-auto-01.mp4)
We have about 45 units already assembled and have used 40 of them in matches at two different FT courses.
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managed to duplicate fx Impact .25 cal mags. need a bit more refining. will fit .368" long slugs currently and awaiting a magnet order to arrive. Next up will be the .22 cal. Mags take about 3 hours to print.
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ones for AEA Max hp .357 as well. ready to go just need to make springs. the ones where I'm squeezing them is proof of extreme cold stress test. they sat in my zero-degree freezer for 16 hours and then stressed to see if they would crack or break. they held fine.
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Looking good!!!
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My fx impact .25 cal mags are now set and work awesome. I got the springs made up for the AEA mags and awaiting the last shell to finish printing so they can be assembled.
Ty Tejon. I put a lot of work and effort into the Fx mags. Now to get the .22 cal ones done. I only have one of them. I now have 5 mags for .25 cal. 3 factory and two of mine.
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Very nice work.
Dave
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Very nice work.
Dave
Ty David
Working on the .22 cal fx impact mags now. i only have one of them. I got a mess of .25 cal mags now.
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Very nice work.
Dave
Ty David
Working on the .22 cal fx impact mags now. i only have one of them. I got a mess of .25 cal mags now.
.22 cal mag prototype is on the printer currently. My inner wheel matched up good to the factory. so now printing my outer shell.
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Made this the other day, it's going into my Shin Sung Fire 201 9mm, just finished the Aluminum Moderator housing today
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got the .22 cal mags sorted and working as they should.
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Very nice Dan.
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Thanks Matt.
Now to get the ambidextrous cheek pad done for both the frame only and ST riser. Frame version is printing now. major upgrades to my ender3 have this cheek pad at 4 hours print time versus the 8-12 of the prototype units
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ones for AEA Max hp .357 as well. ready to go just need to make springs. the ones where I'm squeezing them is proof of extreme cold stress test. they sat in my zero-degree freezer for 16 hours and then stressed to see if they would crack or break. they held fine.
Way to go on those HP Max magazines! I would love to be able to print my own and try out some different mechanisms. I have to learn more about springs and how to source them before I get started.
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ones for AEA Max hp .357 as well. ready to go just need to make springs. the ones where I'm squeezing them is proof of extreme cold stress test. they sat in my zero-degree freezer for 16 hours and then stressed to see if they would crack or break. they held fine.
Way to go on those HP Max magazines! I would love to be able to print my own and try out some different mechanisms. I have to learn more about springs and how to source them before I get started.
Not much to the springs. way easier to wrap your own spring versus trying to source some out. In my case I went with one gauge wire diameter smaller than what the factory had in them. finding the proper mandrel size to get the finished spring diameter was the tricky bit. But I have since bought a copy of the Machinery's handbook 15th edition and it has a very convenient table of mandrel wire gauge to finished size in it. And goobs of other good info.
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I agree with making your own springs being easier. Once I went through the short learning curve, any spring is possible.
Took a while to build up my stock of music wire.
Most important thing I’ve learned is to stress relieve in oven at 450.
Been making my springs for over 10 years now. I can’t imagine having to go back to find springs from stock sources.
Dave
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got tired of cleaning my Orion cam. so made some dust caps for it. green and grey are the caps.
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Dust will now rue the day it gets past those caps.
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Happy accident on the green cap. It was intended to fit into the scope ring. Not sure how I crossed things up. But it fit the camera body fine and I don't mind having to slide the scope ring a bit forward to place/remove the cap. The grey cap is just a quick turn, and it pops clear.
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Got a new one. Range empty chamber flag for impacts
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Thanks for sharing it's really helping this gate out a lot.
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I just got a cults3d account setup and some files on it to for those who have printing capabilities. they can grab the files at a modest price and print themselves.
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This is a core I printed to go in a shroud on one of my air guns. The airstripper shunts air back into the space behind the muzzle. Have not tested it yet.
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Now that is an interesting design there. K-style baffle yet a cup integrated to roll the air back and down the outside of the cone. I got a nice 30mm carbon fiber tube unit I built that has k-types in it 4 or 5 that is 6.25" long that needs the baffle design changes as it didn't work as well as I had intended.
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I just got a cults3d account setup and some files on it to for those who have printing capabilities. they can grab the files at a modest price and print themselves.
I didn't see your fx .25 cal magazines on your cult3d account. When will you upload the files for purchase?
Rod in San Francisco
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Now that is an interesting design there. K-style baffle yet a cup integrated to roll the air back and down the outside of the cone. I got a nice 30mm carbon fiber tube unit I built that has k-types in it 4 or 5 that is 6.25" long that needs the baffle design changes as it didn't work as well as I had intended.
It quieted my .357 aea max to tolerable sharp hiss / pneumatic sound on the first test. On the e second test my housing failed (i made a decision not to add a second grub screw at one hold point which was a mistake). Kaboom and the core actually hit what I was aiming at about 10m away. Nearly jumped out of my socks even though I was taking precautions because I was aware that exact outcome was possible with the volume and pressure of air inside the shroud. I just got some thing from bin Tac. A 5” longer shroud with about 7 stacking cup baffles, an expansion spacer and three spring washers. The only place it seems the spring washers have an impact is between the expansion chamber and the first baffle or between the muzzle of the gun and the expansion chamber. They nest inside of each of the cup baffles in so they can’t be put between the two baffles or after a baffle. My first assumption was that this went at the very end between the last baffle and the endcap, but in that position they just fall inside of the baffle cup and don’t do anything but rattle around. Does anybody know where those spring spacers are supposed to go in the stack?
Eventually I will definitely be printing my own cores for this shroud and see how they compare with the factory made metal battles.
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I just got a cults3d account setup and some files on it to for those who have printing capabilities. they can grab the files at a modest price and print themselves.
I didn't see your fx .25 cal magazines on your cult3d account. When will you upload the files for purchase?
Rod in San Francisco
Mags are now listed
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On my CP1-M shroud, I needed an offset in the mount for it to clear the tube. Image of the muzzle mount section (test piece) shows the offset and lots of open space back into the shroud.
This was straight forward in 3D print but would have been a pain to machine.
Mr. P, good to see you have someone on hand to check your drawings.
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The cat (“Gato”) was getting all up in my business as usual. He is a great companion in his own way - kind of spazzy so he provides many laughs.
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This is a core I printed to go in a shroud on one of my air guns. The airstripper shunts air back into the space behind the muzzle. Have not tested it yet.
that's a cool design, it's like a Funnel Sombrero..... Let us know how well is works.
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This is a core I printed to go in a shroud on one of my air guns. The airstripper shunts air back into the space behind the muzzle. Have not tested it yet.
that's a cool design, it's like a Funnel Sombrero..... Let us know how well is works.
I was only able to test one shot because the housing I was using wasn’t quite durable enough. I had the one shot testing it in a home made extended shroud for the Hp max. Turned the bang into a loud sneeze kind of. The second shot, the moderator became a missile and actually went through the target but ricocheted back out of the trap again. I put the retaining screw too close to the end of the aluminum housing and it just tore off around the grub screw that retained it.
Maybe it was a bullseye …Scared the *%#% out of me as it always does when a new design fails in the testing stages…
Here is a Tesla valve insert I designed yesterday for a narrow shroud space. 11mm bore in a 22 mm i.d. I went the Tesla valve route because there’s not a lot of space for conventional baffles I think and they might just perform well in this circumstance. Who knows. Three of these will fit in the shroud tubes I have and I can just print it as a monocore or separate baffles.
I should have my HP max in hand for testing at the end of this week or early next week. I know there’s a lot of volume occupied by those thick walls but I don’t want to start with something flimsy. If this works at all then I’ll start hollowing out a little more volume and maybe contouring the baffle rims to direct air flow backward rather than trapping it in a corner and forcing it back due to filling.
I don’t know if we’re supposed to talk about this stuff in any detail so I will post the picture, you can private message me if you have a question about function. Moderators, I respect your call on this so please alter / delete as needed.
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Thanks Matt.
Now to get the ambidextrous cheek pad done for both the frame only and ST riser. Frame version is printing now. major upgrades to my ender3 have this cheek pad at 4 hours print time versus the 8-12 of the prototype units
Hi Dan,
Does your impact cheek riser fit the M3 and is it the same height as the stock cheek riser or higher?
Rod in San Francisco
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Thanks Matt.
Now to get the ambidextrous cheek pad done for both the frame only and ST riser. Frame version is printing now. major upgrades to my ender3 have this cheek pad at 4 hours print time versus the 8-12 of the prototype units
Hi Dan,
Does your impact cheek riser fit the M3 and is it the same height as the stock cheek riser or higher?
Rod in San Francisco
It is the same height as the factory. Is just more comfortable as an ambidextrous cheek pad as it has small wings on both sides. As far as adjustability if you have the Saber tacticle Riser and unless they changed their design it should fit with no issues.
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I've been tinkering with my marauder pistol and I'm surprised I'm not seeing much for it in regards to 3d printed parts... Am I looking in the right place?
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Here’s my bottle butt plate I did for my pv2 in my avatar
Dave
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I've been tinkering with my marauder pistol and I'm surprised I'm not seeing much for it in regards to 3d printed parts... Am I looking in the right place?
Check out Buck Rail, he has a bunch of 3D printed parts for the P-Rod, very reasonable prices as well. I know you were probably asking about .stl files for P-Rod parts, but at his prices and given the time and testing to get a part just right, it was worth it to me to let someone else do the engineering, research and development on parts I only really one of each! Here's my P-Rod outfitter with Buck Rail's AF Buffer Tube, Pistol Grip, Fore Grip and LDC. All parts are very well made and fit perfectly.
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I've been tinkering with my marauder pistol and I'm surprised I'm not seeing much for it in regards to 3d printed parts... Am I looking in the right place?
Check out Buck Rail, he has a bunch of 3D printed parts for the P-Rod, very reasonable prices as well. I know you were probably asking about .stl files for P-Rod parts, but at his prices and given the time and testing to get a part just right, it was worth it to me to let someone else do the engineering, research and development on parts I only really one of each! Here's my P-Rod outfitter with Buck Rail's AF Buffer Tube, Pistol Grip, Fore Grip and LDC. All parts are very well made and fit perfectly.
You're exactly right. Would it save me time and money buying from Buckrail? Probably, but international shipping would kill it. Honestly, if I had to pay for a well done .stl file, i would
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So sorry, I didn't realize you were one of our North of the Border Brothers! Terry offers free shipping on all U.S. orders, you may want to just reach out and ask him what shipping to Canada would be. The parts are all very light weight, so it may not be super expensive. But, I do get why you'd prefer a well done .stl file, those could be shipped for free via e-mail! ;D
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Here’s my bottle butt plate I did for my pv2 in my avatar
Dave
That looks great - nice job.
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Made a bf type trigger housing and ar style grip for one project.
Ender 3 pro dual gear and silent stepper upgrade.
(https://i.ibb.co/s50RVvL/005-A8-C1-E-B666-4-C36-A564-256-C53885-BE5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HNW4HDm)
Grip turned out good on my optimized print settings, trigger housing was fast mode but turned out to be only 3min faster but way worse quality.
Marko
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Printed a very basic clamp-type bipod mount for my Akela. This eliminates the picatinny adapter, and frees up the forestock for better handling. Clamps right to the reservoir solidly without point-loading the cylinder.
I did not want a barrel band, so this fits the bill nicely. Bipod folds up compactly. Printed in ASA.
JMJinNC
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got the .22 cal mags sorted and working as they should.
I got bored last night and got some plans coming up. So, I sat down and designed some clam shell speed loaders for my .22 cal mags. the .25 ones will be the next ones to get sorted. these will be able to fit the MP mold slugs as well
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Designed and Made this Biathlon side lever handle for my HW100's today, inserted a 3mm carbon rod for additional strength in the handle.
fit's perfectly, no need for any securing screw... ;)
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Designed and Made this Biathlon side lever handle for my HW100's today, inserted a 3mm carbon rod for additional strength in the handle.
fit's perfectly, no need for any securing screw... ;)
Can I buy one from you? I want one for my DAR!! :o
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got the .22 cal mags sorted and working as they should.
I got bored last night and got some plans coming up. So, I sat down and designed some clam shell speed loaders for my .22 cal mags. the .25 ones will be the next ones to get sorted. these will be able to fit the MP mold slugs as well
AHHHHHHHH!!!
I recognize that orange! Did I get single pellet loaders from you for my DAR? ;D
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got the .22 cal mags sorted and working as they should.
I got bored last night and got some plans coming up. So, I sat down and designed some clam shell speed loaders for my .22 cal mags. the .25 ones will be the next ones to get sorted. these will be able to fit the MP mold slugs as well
AHHHHHHHH!!!
I recognize that orange! Did I get single pellet loaders from you for my DAR? ;D
No pm's from you in my mailbox so I don't think so and I can't recall doing any DAR parts. I just in the past month or so got some orange to play with. same with the lime green.
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Designed and Made this Biathlon side lever handle for my HW100's today, inserted a 3mm carbon rod for additional strength in the handle.
fit's perfectly, no need for any securing screw... ;)
Can I buy one from you? I want one for my DAR!! :o
Here's the Tinkercad link, you can download it, it has a hole in the handle for a 3mm Carbon or Metal rod, use epoxy or other glues to secure the rod in place, it will add strength to the handle.
it is a snug slip on fit so you might need to modify the fit to your side lever.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQeISqv8aiD-hw100-biathlon-lever-handle-ver-22 (https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQeISqv8aiD-hw100-biathlon-lever-handle-ver-22)
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Can I buy one from you? I want one for my DAR!! :o
Here's the Tinkercad link, you can download it, it has a hole in the handle for a 3mm Carbon or Metal rod, use epoxy or other glues to secure the rod in place, it will add strength to the handle.
it is a snug slip on fit so you might need to modify the fit to your side lever.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQeISqv8aiD-hw100-biathlon-lever-handle-ver-22 (https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQeISqv8aiD-hw100-biathlon-lever-handle-ver-22)
Thank you Kevin. ;D
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Can I buy one from you? I want one for my DAR!! :o
Here's the Tinkercad link, you can download it, it has a hole in the handle for a 3mm Carbon or Metal rod, use epoxy or other glues to secure the rod in place, it will add strength to the handle.
it is a snug slip on fit so you might need to modify the fit to your side lever.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQeISqv8aiD-hw100-biathlon-lever-handle-ver-22 (https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQeISqv8aiD-hw100-biathlon-lever-handle-ver-22)
Thank you Kevin. ;D
anytime.... ;)
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got the .22 cal mags sorted and working as they should.
I got bored last night and got some plans coming up. So, I sat down and designed some clam shell speed loaders for my .22 cal mags. the .25 ones will be the next ones to get sorted. these will be able to fit the MP mold slugs as well
Got the .25 cal speed loaders sorted and working. Also came up with a mounting for the cheap tactical zoom flashlights for picatinny rails.
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Nice work!
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thanks, having too much fun doing all this. lol
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I designed a moderator for when I get an 18 inch barrel for my crosman 2240.
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I designed a moderator for when I get an 18 inch barrel for my crosman 2240.
Wyatt, are you going to be printing some of those out?
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I designed a moderator for when I get an 18 inch barrel for my crosman 2240.
Wyatt, are you going to be printing some of those out?
I don't have a printer, I send files to a friend and he prints them for me.
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5335301/files (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5335301/files)
link
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Great design!
What kind of printer is your friend using? I have one of the filament type and it wouldn’t be able to print something like that because of all of the unsupported overhangs.
I have come up with some printable multi baffle moderators, but designing them with no overhangs so they can print in one go presents some challenges.
Here is one for .25 cal that is a single print. I need to make better use of the volume but this works nicely up to 150 fpe on my airforce guns. It is designed to go inside an aluminum housing. There are vents in the first chamber that flow air back into shroud space behind muzzle.
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Great design!
What kind of printer is your friend using? I have one of the filament type and it wouldn’t be able to print something like that because of all of the unsupported overhangs.
I have come up with some printable multi baffle moderators, but designing them with no overhangs so they can print in one go presents some challenges.
Thanks, I think he is using a dremel digilab 3d40.
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I made my own one-piece-rest, elevation adjustment printed from resin
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AEA hp 22 magazine.
Still in prototype phase. I printed it in cf nylon (it’s all I have at the moment).
Cover is some plastic from an old washing machine (it was the thickness I needed). Cf nylon cover didn’t allow rotor to spin as easy. Another filament would work a lot better.
This here works perfect so far. Although it went from 12 factory to 10 shot. I can get probably get 11 but it’s not a big deal to me.
Dave
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Looks good thanks for sharing.
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AEA hp 22 magazine.
Still in prototype phase. I printed it in cf nylon (it’s all I have at the moment).
Cover is some plastic from an old washing machine (it was the thickness I needed). Cf nylon cover didn’t allow rotor to spin as easy. Another filament would work a lot better.
This here works perfect so far. Although it went from 12 factory to 10 shot. I can get probably get 11 but it’s not a big deal to me.
Dave
If you decide to make more, I would be interested in a few.
Good work, David!
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I can share the files when I get all the kinks worked out. It needs to be printed in a different filament. No need for the cf nylon, in my opinion.
Dave
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I got some petg for this. I have no idea why I picked white. Didn’t even consider color when I was ordering. Oh well.
It works great and way easier to post process. Really slick too.
Didn’t mention springs before. I use .028” music wire wound up on a 5/16” rod. Oven at 450 for an hour. Then cut a 1/4” worth and form the legs.
Dave
ETA
I have the cover spun up on one. If you wind this mag up and drop a pellet, you can load the rest like a standard AEA, only you don’t have to flip to other side on the first. The petg is flexible enough I can just put a pin to keep it from rotating when it’s in your pocket.
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Lookin good, Dave! 8)
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Made a magazine/SST holder for my Akela.
There’s a magnet inside to retain the mag.
Holding magazine
(https://www.snapagogo.com/images/2022/05/14/B0036FF6-E127-4F22-BE65-8698A65B70A0.md.jpg) (https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cGfVVK)
With SST.
(https://www.snapagogo.com/images/2022/05/14/9839F386-BFFD-4EDC-9548-2463DBFEDE7C.md.jpg) (https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cGfIyq)
Backside
(https://www.snapagogo.com/images/2022/05/14/B1E0BF98-C732-4D15-B7F5-ECD536A29827.md.jpg) (https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cGfuaI)
Also visible is my non-adjustable cheekrest. It covers the length of the pic rail. Height is the same as the adjustable cheekrest at its lowest setting.
JMJinNC
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Pretty slick dood.
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Made a magazine/SST holder for my Akela.
There’s a magnet inside to retain the mag.
Holding magazine
(https://www.snapagogo.com/images/2022/05/14/B0036FF6-E127-4F22-BE65-8698A65B70A0.md.jpg) (https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cGfVVK)
With SST.
(https://www.snapagogo.com/images/2022/05/14/9839F386-BFFD-4EDC-9548-2463DBFEDE7C.md.jpg) (https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cGfIyq)
Backside
(https://www.snapagogo.com/images/2022/05/14/B1E0BF98-C732-4D15-B7F5-ECD536A29827.md.jpg) (https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cGfuaI)
Also visible is my non-adjustable cheekrest. It covers the length of the pic rail. Height is the same as the adjustable cheekrest at its lowest setting.
JMJinNC
That is awesome! You plan on producing any more and maybe selling them? I would be interested!
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The outside profile matches the rounded cutout in the stock. Not perfect, but pretty close.
(https://www.snapagogo.com/images/2022/05/14/EDA9A71A-E349-450F-BC8D-19196E8BA8A2.md.jpg) (https://www.snapagogo.com/image/cGfoEQ)
I tapped the boss holes on the left side, #6-32. The right side has the chute for the magazine. The chute has no “bottom” but instead uses the inside surface of the left side as it’s bottom.
I glued a strong magnet to the chute opposite the screw in the magazine. It offers just enough retention. I pressed in a metal slug in the SST so it will also be retained by the magnet.
I applied flocking tape to the curved surfaces that touch the stock - this provides a snug fit without leaving press marks.
Sorry, but I have no plans to produce more, but can supply stl files to those who PM me. I know I can upload them here, but I prefer to supply them to those who ask. That way, if my designs show up being sold on eBay, I’ll know how that happened.
JMJinNC
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Thank you! I just sent you a PM... :D
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Made a magazine/SST holder for my Akela.
There’s a magnet inside to retain the mag.
Also visible is my non-adjustable cheekrest. It covers the length of the pic rail. Height is the same as the adjustable cheekrest at its lowest setting.
JMJinNC
Is that a single shot tray I see there too?
And what about that adjustable but bad on that Akela? That's a necessary add in my mind. I've been looking for one.
Thanks
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Texasplinker, Pm me for the files.
Happy to share.
JMJinNC
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looking for files for the stormrider
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would you print a FFH spring guide in which material? im thinking PLA in extended mode should be more than enough..
i mailed AoA for the FFH and it does not ship here
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my first painting on a print, i call him kirby
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well other than never seeing with that sort of look on his face...he might pass for Mr. Puckett when he was towards the end of his time here...Need to put a Twins hat on him.. ;)
Kirby
https://www.minnpost.com/sports/2008/03/eye-care-center-announced-honor-second-anniversary-kirby-pucketts-death/ (https://www.minnpost.com/sports/2008/03/eye-care-center-announced-honor-second-anniversary-kirby-pucketts-death/)
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no idea what you are talking about
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-kirb-46858 (https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-kirb-46858)
printed mr kirby a couple months ago
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A clamp on globe sightband inserts I designed and 3D printed at work during some freetime. I made it to fit on my Beeman Sportsman which didn't have iron sights.
Then I went and left it at work so I haven't had a chance to do a test fit yet.
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no idea what you are talking about
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-kirb-46858 (https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-kirb-46858)
printed mr kirby a couple months ago
I think he was making a Kirby Puckett joke.
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A clamp on globe sightband inserts I designed and 3D printed at work during some freetime. I made it to fit on my Beeman Sportsman which didn't have iron sights.
Then I went and left it at work so I haven't had a chance to do a test fit yet.
I like it. Will be interesting to see how it looks/works when mounted.
Thanks for sharing,
Dave
Btw, don’t forget to bring it with you from work…there, I’ve helped remind you, lol
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no idea what you are talking about
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-kirb-46858 (https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-kirb-46858)
printed mr kirby a couple months ago
I think he was making a Kirby Puckett joke.
no, i didn't know this guy i swear xD
my first "lower" went cheap on the support but it came allright
i know, looks like a pp750 wannabe