GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Daisy Airguns => Topic started by: JoeShmoe on March 01, 2018, 03:31:19 PM
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Hi All,
I just picked up a Daisy 853 form the Civilian Marksmanship Program. I'll be showing it off to my local club in an attempt to convince them that it's worth investing to start a merit badge program with the local boy scouts. Check it out, ain't she a beaut'?
I'll be posting accuracy results tomorrow after I spend all day at the range!
Cheers,
Joe
(https://i.imgur.com/0EXxsFk.jpg)
Full album:
https://imgur.com/a/86ztt
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Looks good! And good luck, I hope they see the value in a good marksmanship program.
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Welcome to the 10m club.
10m shooting can be addicting. Especially when the weather outside is crummy.
Make sure that you check out the trigger.
If the trigger is not SMOOTH, the trigger mod may not have been done, or done properly.
The pull should be SMOOTH, if you want it accurate.
You won't get it to be like skating on ice, but you can get it pretty smooth.
The main thing that you want to eliminate is any burrs that will catch during the pull. That is seriously BAD news.
And do NOT reduce the pull travel on the trigger. It isn't a precision trigger. The sear is not hardened steel, and the edge of the sear will wear. The sear needs enough engagement for safety, because it will wear. If the pull is too short, it could result in an accidental discharge.
Also when you pull the trigger, then release the trigger, the sear does NOT reset.
What this means is, if the trigger was half pulled, the sear is now half engaged, and easier to fire.
This is similar to many of my other air guns, so not unique to the x53 rifles.
This is a safety issue with kids.
Luckily, with the x53 rifles, you just recock the bolt, and the sear is reset.
This is the trigger mod thread.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=39648.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=39648.0)
gud luk on your merit badge project.
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Hi All,
I just picked up a Daisy 853 form the Civilian Marksmanship Program. I'll be showing it off to my local club in an attempt to convince them that it's worth investing to start a merit badge program with the local boy scouts. Check it out, ain't she a beaut'?
I'll be posting accuracy results tomorrow after I spend all day at the range!
Cheers,
Joe
(https://i.imgur.com/0EXxsFk.jpg)
Full album:
https://imgur.com/a/86ztt
Did you order it or did you pick it up at a CMP Store?
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Joe,
They are great. Once you get the trigger work done, you won't want to part with it. The trigger mod is not too difficult, but it does require some care and forethought. Please keep us posted.
When you tear an 853 down for the first time, be prepared to look for parts that have bounced and flown away. It is wise to work over a soft cloth.
BobH.
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[CMP] Daisy 853 ... ain't she a beaut'?
Yes it is. 🙂
If you aren't just real happy with this rifle, I will be very surprised.
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Joe,
They are great. Once you get the trigger work done, you won't want to part with it. The trigger mod is not too difficult, but it does require some care and forethought. Please keep us posted.
When you tear an 853 down for the first time, be prepared to look for parts that have bounced and flown away. It is wise to work over a soft cloth.
BobH.
I actually quite like the trigger the way it is and decided not to change anything about it.
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Hi All,
I just picked up a Daisy 853 form the Civilian Marksmanship Program. I'll be showing it off to my local club in an attempt to convince them that it's worth investing to start a merit badge program with the local boy scouts. Check it out, ain't she a beaut'?
I'll be posting accuracy results tomorrow after I spend all day at the range!
Cheers,
Joe
(https://i.imgur.com/0EXxsFk.jpg)
Full album:
https://imgur.com/a/86ztt
Did you order it or did you pick it up at a CMP Store?
They have STORES?!!? I just got mine off the internet.
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Yes they have 2 stores.
One in ANNISTON, ALABAMA and another in PORT CLINTON, OHIO.
https://thecmp.org/cmp_sales/cmp-stores/
I downloaded the CMP form, filled it out and mailed it.
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i walkied into the anniston store yesterday, and i picked one up too. 492 fps with the 8.44 jsb. tiny cloverleafs at 15 yards... love them. got it with the monte stock...
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Hi All,
I spent all day at the range and here are my results. The following album is in the order they were shot.
https://imgur.com/a/Srn20
I started with 20 shots on a different target to "season" the barrel. I suspect that might not have been enough, and perhaps some of the oil needed to stabilize in the plunger and valve. That, and the wind was intermittent an gentile at the beginning. Towards the middle and the end the wind died completely. All of these shots were taken at ~10 meters from a bench rest using a scope. I did switch to the peep sight once I decided what pellet I liked best, but I don't have photos of that. The pellet drop was so severe I was aiming at the top bull with the scope and the pellets were hitting the bottom bull!
The following album is in order of performance from worst to best. I did not measure the groups.
https://imgur.com/a/PpJq9
The order from worst to best is as follows:
21. Gamo Match Classic Training
20. RWS Diabolo Basic Basic Line
19. Gamo Match Classic Training
18. H&N Sport Sport
17. H&N Sport Field Target Trophy (fed nicely)
16. RWS Meisterkugeln Professional Line 8.2 gr
15. RWS Hobby Sport Line
14. RWS Meisterkugeln Professional Line 7.0 gr
13. RWS Superdome Field Line
12. RWS Hobby Sport Line
11. Crosman Premier Match Grade 7.9 gr
10. RWS Diabolo Basic Basic Line
9. JSB Match Diabolo Exact Express Diabolo (Fed Very Smoothly)
8. Falcon Accuracy Plus
7. H&N Sport Field Target Trophy
6. RWS Meisterkugeln Professional Line 7.0 gr
5. Crosman Premier Match Grade 7.9 gr
4. RWS Meisterkugeln Professional Line 8.2 gr
3. Falcon Accuracy Plus
2. JSB Match Diabolo Exact Express Diabolo
1. RWS Superdome Field Line
It's clear some are consistently better than others. It's also clear that the rifle may have been settling in or the very slight wind may have been a factor early on. I'm still working on getting a feel for how wind effects the pellets. I ended up zeroing with the JSB Match Diabolos because those did quite well for both rounds of shooting. The Falcon Accuracy Plus would have also been a good Choice. Really, aside from a few key pellets (Gamo Match CLassic Training, H&N Sport Sport) most would shoot acceptably for the AR-1 target size.
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How many shot groups?
Too many shots and the target gets so blasted that you can't score it.
You should use a cardboard backer, to reduce the tearing.
Guideline; only shoot as many shots into a target as you can score EACH shot.
In regulation 10m matches, it is one shot per target.
But most scouts won't be at that level of accuracy so maybe 5 shots per target, which happens to be the merit badge requirement (5-shot group).
However, if you do happen to have a real crack shot, I suggest shooting 2 targets per "group"; 3 shots on the 1st and 2 shots on the 2nd. Or going to 3 or 2 shots per bull, until they shoot the required 25 shots. Because you have to be able to score each shot. And if they group too tight, you won't be able to score each shot.
Clean the barrel and check the rifle.
That rifle shot from a rest with a scope should be able to hold the 8 ring if not the 10 "ring."
I think your aiming at the upper target to hit the lower is a factor in the group size.
Can you hold on the target with the supplied aperture sights?
My concern is, why do you have to aim so much above the target with the scope. Is this simply that your scope cannot adjust close enough for 10m, or is the velocity of the rifle REALLY LOW.
Time to check the rifle with a chronograph.
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How many shot groups?
Too many shots and the target gets so blasted that you can't score it.
You should use a cardboard backer, to reduce the tearing.
Guideline; only shoot as many shots into a target as you can score EACH shot.
In regulation 10m matches, it is one shot per target.
But most scouts won't be at that level of accuracy so maybe 5 shots per target, which happens to be the merit badge requirement (5-shot group).
However, if you do happen to have a real crack shot, I suggest shooting 2 targets per "group"; 3 shots on the 1st and 2 shots on the 2nd. Or going to 3 or 2 shots per bull, until they shoot the required 25 shots. Because you have to be able to score each shot. And if they group too tight, you won't be able to score each shot.
Clean the barrel and check the rifle.
That rifle shot from a rest with a scope should be able to hold the 8 ring if not the 10 "ring."
I think your aiming at the upper target to hit the lower is a factor in the group size.
Can you hold on the target with the supplied aperture sights?
My concern is, why do you have to aim so much above the target with the scope. Is this simply that your scope cannot adjust close enough for 10m, or is the velocity of the rifle REALLY LOW.
Time to check the rifle with a chronograph.
Oh yes, these are ten shot groups. I was checking purely for accuracy. Many of these shots didn't even make a sound as the passed through the ragged hole.
I think that when I get the scouts involved I'll have them do more than one "style" of grouping. The requirements are for a five shot group so I'll have them do that and complete their merit badge. However, who doesn't love a little competition? I'll have them finish out the course with a proper ten shot sheet, one per target! Maybe the winner will get something special.
Yea, I didn't clean the barrel when I got it, I was hoping I could get away with not doing it. Something has got me spooked with accidentally ruining my crown. I'm not so sure about the aiming problem though. The targets are pretty well held in the mount that I've got. If anything, it helped having a crisp target to constantly aim at. The center of my POA was often dead on, though I'll admit sometimes "only" within the 9 ring. It's 10 meter bench rest with a 9x40 scope, I'd be embarrassed with anything less.
I don't think the rifle has any velocity issues, I think it's just the scope and the mount set up I've got. I've had issues adjusting this scope sufficiently before. I could follow the pellet with my eyes if I was lucky, but it wasn't anything like a Red Ryder. The peep sight only required ~25 clicks up and ~5 clicks to the right to get POI to match POA. If I had to guess, the full range of the peep sight is ~100 clicks in either direction. I took a shot at an empty soda can at the end and the pellet easily passed through both sides, though it did knock it over. That's about what I would expect from 500 fps.
I was planning on chalking it up to the tiny amounts of wind, seeing has how I was shooting outside. The better shots were at the end of the day, when the wind was non-existent but the rifle was also "broken in." However, if you don't think that would be enough (I'm still not a good judge of wind effects) then I'll clean the barrel and spend another day at the range. I had loads of fun today and I've got nothing but time. Plus, I have to do SOMETHING with these literal thousands of pellets that I have.
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The main thing that you want is, to prove to yourself that the rifle+pellet combo will at least hold the 8 ring. Holding the 9 ring is even better, and is what the rifle is capable of.
Actually, having a "proof target" for each rifle, is a good idea. It will show the scouts what the rifle is capable of shooting, and will give them the confidence that they won't loose the merit badge because of a rifle that is not accurate.
You bring up a point about shooting.
10m shooting is normally done indoors, where there is no wind to affect the pellet in flight.
If you shoot outdoors, it should ideally be in a sheltered range where the effects of wind is minimal. Because otherwise, that would add wind doping to the task of shooting by the scouts, which may make it harder to hold the 6 ring.
Cleaning the 853s barrel will require pushing a cleaning rod from the front.
You can't get to the breach like with a break-barrel, and that small loading port won't let you use most pull-though cleaning devices.
An old trick for protecting the crown:
- Get a plastic straw, cut it to about 2 inches long, then cut it open length-wise.
- Then squeeze the straw so it is smaller in diameter.
- Then slip it an inch into the muzzle, and stick out at least an inch.
- Then open the straw, like a flower, so that you can hold/tape it to the barrel.
The straw will prevent the cleaning rod or jag from hitting the crown.
But if the rifle is able to hold the 9 ring, I would not bother cleaning the barrel.
Don't fix something that is not broken.
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I'd clean the barrel w/a patch or 2 at least- you just cannot know what the gun may contain, even coming straight from the CMP. I'm pretty sure these guns are not all worked on by the same armorer judging by the two I have and what others have reported. The image below is what I found in my first gun after repeated barrel cleanings didn't keep it from being fouled after a couple dozen shots. The lube had worked its way all the way through the gun, from the compression tube through the TP and out the barrel. The second gun had no such problem and in fact didn't use any black moly lube.
(http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/8/80/853_moly_lube.jpg)
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Ugh, Mark,
That would require a full tear down to clean that kind of stuff out :(
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Indeed! That gun had several issues besides too much lube (dings on the outside of the barrel, crown and breach irregularities, low power/high ES) but after a fair amount of work it now shoots very good. Had I known what I was in for, I'd have simply exchanged it. Thankfully that gun does not represent what a CMP buyer gets the vast majority of the time.
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All,
I did an at-home test today. All I had were the Crosman Premiere Wadcutters from yesterday (I keep most of my ammo at the range). Looking at yesterday's data they performed decently well, though they weren't the best. Today's shots were taken at twenty feet, prone, with a sling (my first time shooting with a sling), using the peep sights. Each group is a five shot group. I'll chalk the first group up to getting used to the sling.
I think we don't have anything to worry about with this rifle, and any accuracy problems from yesterday were likely wind-induced. That does raise the problem of how to qualify in the wind, but I suspect I'll be able to adjust the requirements to account for the wind of that day. The Boy Scouts tend to be amendable to that sort of thing. I could shoot a group myself to start off the qualification round (or whatever) and adjust the requirements accordingly.
(https://i.imgur.com/Rfm1ilx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XTsOP5W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ccjcr6C.jpg)
Joe
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I stopped by the North store yesterday. There were about ten each of the monte carlo and standard on the rack. I selected one of each based on the "nicest" wood. The rear screw was completely loose on about half of them, including the standard stock one that I bought. Luckily, it just wasn't installed correctly instead of stripped.
They are both torn apart now for a stock refinish and trigger mod.
No affiliated club membership or marksmanship training required. Anyone can stop at the store and buy them. Very nice and helpful staff.
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Joe,
That is the kind of accuracy I was expecting to see. (thumbs up)
I like your idea of using a group shot by yourself as an adjustment factor for the wind.
A few wind flags near the target would be a good idea.
Then they can try to shoot when the wind is minimal, or at least consistent for each shot.
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Ken
I'm jealous that you can just "stop by" the CMP store.
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The rear screw was completely loose on about half of them, including the standard stock one that I bought. Luckily, it just wasn't installed correctly instead of stripped.
mine is also loose... i try to tighten the rear screw but it is bottomed out... could someone telle me if there is anything else that the screw should be attached to? it only has this squareish plastic/rubber block, and the screw seems to have a "nut" half way up the threads. you only feel wiggle when you pump it. otherwise i was killing a silhouette ram at 35 yards yesterday... today im stretching it out to 45...
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The screw you are talking about is a 2-piece affair. The first half had wood threads and a hex to drive it with. This is first tightened into the stock. Then the second half- a machine thread screw- is used with the plastic insert to tighten the valve body assembly into the stock. What often happens is the whole screw assembly comes out as a unit, instead of just the machine screw separating from the first half. The screw kits Daisy sells now has a single long wood screw to replace the 2-piece assembly. This single long screw is sometimes found already installed on the CMP guns.
It’s my opinion that the 2-part rear receiver/stock retainer screw (photo below) is a better setup than the single long screw (#36 on the diagram). So if the gun is still equipped with it- and as long as it’s not stripped- I’d recommend reusing it. The 2-part screw is only a little more work to use, but it holds the rear of the receiver with less flex than the long wood screw that comes in the screw assortment.
(http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/4/4f/853_REAR_STOCK_HARDWARE.jpg)
Original photo from Tom Gaylord’s Daisy 853 article (https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2016/05/the-daisy-853-part-1/).
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Joe,
That is the kind of accuracy I was expecting to see. (thumbs up)
I like your idea of using a group shot by yourself as an adjustment factor for the wind.
A few wind flags near the target would be a good idea.
Then they can try to shoot when the wind is minimal, or at least consistent for each shot.
More testing today! I went out specifically because the wind was strong. Today it was blowing right to left, quite strongly at times. This is with the peep sites, bench rested, at ~10 meters. Both groups are five shots. For the first group I only shot when the wind was calm. The second group I tried to shoot when the winds were high. As you can see, it was actually pretty hard to time a well-placed shot during a gust of wind! All shots were aiming dead center. The rifles was previously sighted in during the calm on Friday afternoon and was shooting dead center then, if maybe a hair to the right. I was shooting the JSB exacts mentioned earlier.
Regardless, what this means is that I might not even have to bother adjusting requirements for the wind. The requirement for an AR-1 target is keeping the group inside the 6 ring! Even with the strong winds and an "improperly" sighted rifle (sighted for no wind) I still managed to qualify for my merit badge!
Cheers,
Joe
P.S. Yes, the targets were hanging upside down.
Low Wind
(https://i.imgur.com/m20lVIi.jpg?1)
High Wind (that "flyer" is REALLY high wind!)
(https://i.imgur.com/Fph6dO4.jpg?1)
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Also, I should say, I basically shot these two groups and then spent the rest of the time pickign off paintballs and wine corks. The pellet gets caught in the cork so it goes flying even though the gun is "under powered!"
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Also, I should say, I basically shot these two groups and then spent the rest of the time pickign off paintballs and wine corks. The pellet gets caught in the cork so it goes flying even though the gun is "under powered!"
I like that kind of fun ;D
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thank you Mark... on my way to the lab... muhahahaha
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Please forgive the hijack... :D
thank you Mark... on my way to the lab... muhahahaha
Some links that may be useful:
• TRIGGER MOD http://www.pilkguns.com/daisy853tm.shtml (http://www.pilkguns.com/daisy853tm.shtml)
• TRIGGER MOD II https://umdrive.memphis.edu/ksingltn/public/Daisy%20M853%20M753%20M888%20M887%20Trigger%20Modification%20Instructions%20PDF.pdf (https://umdrive.memphis.edu/ksingltn/public/Daisy%20M853%20M753%20M888%20M887%20Trigger%20Modification%20Instructions%20PDF.pdf)
• http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/853seal.htm (http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/853seal.htm)
Here's a couple tips on dis and reassembling, some may be covered in the links above. Please disregard this if it's old news to you!
The stock is retained by a type of ‘binding post’ (example in photo below). The “nuts” (#34 on diagram) are usually a tight fit in the stock. They are generally installed in the right side of the stock, but pay attention to what side they are on in case the gun being worked on is different. The reason for this caution is because the nut takes a slightly larger hole for it to seat properly, so they need to be kept in the same position. After the stock screw is removed, the rear nut can be left in place if it’s tightly held by the stock - the stock is thick enough that the nut does not protrude inside the stock to catch on anything when the action is removed. The stock is thinner where the front nut is installed, so the nut may protrude all the way through the stock a little, causing it to foul on the receiver when you go to remove it. If this is the case, it needs to be driven outward at least enough to disengage the barrel band. An easy way to do this is to unscrew the long screw several turns, then tap it to drive the nut outward. Then it can also be left in the stock if it’s a tight fit (they can be very hard to completely remove). If these nuts and screws are damaged, replacements are included in the screw assortment.
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9c/Sleeve_nuts.jpg/180px-Sleeve_nuts.jpg)
Once all the fasteners are out and the nuts clear of everything, the stock is ready to be removed. But before removing, set the safety to half and half so it will clear. Then when you go to remove the stock, open the lever and guide the hand grip through the slot in the stock. If you try to remove the action from the stock with the pump arm snapped home, the pump handle will not fit through the slot in the stock. Forcing it can get the arm stuck or worse yet, the stock could be cracked.
REASSEMBLY TIPS:
I read in one tutorial, to use a mallet to help close the trigger housing (#13 on diagram). All I can say is, I’ve not had to use a mallet to close it. I just align the trigger housing to the valve body with the rear tab of the housing inserted into the receiver and then pull the trigger rearward a little as you press the two parts together and it will snap closed without drama.
To make things easier, remember that the sear spring (#22 on diagram) does NOT need to be in place before the plastic “trigger housing” is installed. One set of instructions say to tuck the spring (while attached to the sear) through the viewing window adjacent to the spring before installing the trigger housing, another says to use a flat blade screwdriver to compress the spring before replacing the trigger housing (fine for those with three hands). I find it easiest by far to simply install the spring through the window after the trigger housing is in place. Just be careful to not let the spring fly away as you install it. This might be a good time to work inside a clear plastic bag, at least the first time this is done. But the spring installs easily this way, and it’s now the only way I do it.
A word about the sear spring- I've read recommendations saying to leave it out altogether to make the pull weight lighter. So I tried it. And while removing it does lessen the pull and the gun will cock and fire without it, you may find that without the spring, when fired the hammer can hit the lever latch with enough force that it releases the lever from being clicked in place. For that reason I use it, and live with the small increase in pull weight.
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Thank you Mark.
I needed that information.
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My Daisy 853 from CMP was delivered today.
I installed a Kruger 3-9x32 scope on it just to determine which pellets would be the most accurate.
It shoots 10 shots into 1 ragged hole with RWS R 10 Match 7.0 grains, RWS Hobby 7.0 grains and RWS Diabolo Basic 7.0 grains at 54 feet inside using sand bags on an ironing board. These are just regular pellets in the 500 pellet tins.
This was not a fluke. I shot three 10 shot groups with each pellet.
I was buying the gun because I wanted to try the peep sights.
Now I don't want to take the scope off.
Note: This used 853 is more accurate than my 953.
The 853 needed oil on the foam wiper and o-ring.
I shimmed the rear scope ring with 7 layers of electrical tape because I ran out of up adjustment.
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I'm still in the pellet testing phase but of the pellets I have shot, the one that stood out for higher MV and a low ES is the RWS Superdome. They have a softer alloy than some pellets and a thin skirt that I believe helps it to seal to the barrel better (have read this is called "obturation"). I haven't shot any targets for precision yet, but I've had good results plinking w/the Superdomes offhand.
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I refinished the stocks on both of my CMP 853's and extended the LOP. (I really need to strip and stain the sporter stock to match the walnut extender :-[) I spent a couple more dollars and purchased 753 sights for my 853 MC. The Daisy 853 from CMP just might be the best deal in this world....if one is into airguns.
BTW, my two 853's simply adore the 7.33 gr. AA Air Falcon pellets at ~505 fps each....into a single hole at 10M.
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Oldgringo, have you ever tested either the RWS Superpoint 8.2 gr or Superdome 8.3 gr pellets in your 853s? They give the best mv from my 853 but I've not tried the AA pellets you mention, so I was wondering how the AAs might compare to the RWS pellets for MV...
Really liking the LOP extensions! I need to do the same to mine, the plastic spacers look pretty cheesy on an otherwise handsome rifle, IMHO.
(http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/e/ef/853_BY_8-22-17_L.jpg)
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Oldgringo, have you ever tested either the RWS Superpoint 8.2 gr or Superdome 8.3 gr pellets in your 853s? They give the best mv from my 853 but I've not tried the AA pellets you mention, so I was wondering how the AAs might compare to the RWS pellets for MV...
Really liking the LOP extensions! I need to do the same to mine, the plastic spacers look pretty cheesy on an otherwise handsome rifle, IMHO.
(http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/e/ef/853_BY_8-22-17_L.jpg)
I've tried many pellets and the 7.33 gr. AA Air Falcons produce a single 10M hole at ~505 fps and that's good enough for me uh huh, uh huh. And yes, the plastic stock extenders that come with the rifle are ugly and ill fitting.
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Oldgringo, have you ever tested either the RWS Superpoint 8.2 gr or Superdome 8.3 gr pellets in your 853s? They give the best mv from my 853 but I've not tried the AA pellets you mention, so I was wondering how the AAs might compare to the RWS pellets for MV...
Really liking the LOP extensions! I need to do the same to mine, the plastic spacers look pretty cheesy on an otherwise handsome rifle, IMHO.
(http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/e/ef/853_BY_8-22-17_L.jpg)
I've tried many pellets and the 7.33 gr. AA Air Falcons produce a single 10M hole at ~505 fps and that's good enough for me uh huh, uh huh. And yes, the plastic stock extenders that come with the rifle are ugly and ill fitting.
It looks like you have three stacked up on there, is that true? I may order an extra, if that's the case.
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You can also use PVC pipe sections or similar tubing. That would give it a somewhat skeleton look that some match rifles have. I would put 1 spacer under the butt pad to support the center of the butt pad, then tubing between the spacer and stock.
What I am not sure of is, if the spacer serves any function for support perpendicular to the line of the stock, either side to side or up and down.
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It looks like you have three stacked up on there, is that true? I may order an extra, if that's the case.
Yes, three fit using the factory screws w/about 5/8" engagement.
The only thing that might be an issue w/using tubing as stand-offs for a single 853 spacer and buttpad is the screws are 8-32. Wouldn't take much to use a larger threaded stock insert and screws though.
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So I took all that previous data and worked through it using Range Buddy. Here are the results:
(https://i.imgur.com/KcxJiLO.png)
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Thanks for posting these results- good stuff!
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MIne should be here soon, ready to join the ranks....LOL
Just got Fed X update will be here Thursday...hope its a good un....
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Hi All,
I just picked up a Daisy 853 form the Civilian Marksmanship Program. I'll be showing it off to my local club in an attempt to convince them that it's worth investing to start a merit badge program with the local boy scouts. Check it out, ain't she a beaut'?
I'll be posting accuracy results tomorrow after I spend all day at the range!
Cheers,
Joe
(https://i.imgur.com/0EXxsFk.jpg)
Full album:
https://imgur.com/a/86ztt
Wow! You got a good one! I’ve bought a few. A couple were much less pristine than yours. Congratulations. They’re sweet shooters, that’s for sure.
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The rear screw was completely loose on about half of them, including the standard stock one that I bought. Luckily, it just wasn't installed correctly instead of stripped.
mine is also loose... i try to tighten the rear screw but it is bottomed out... could someone telle me if there is anything else that the screw should be attached to? it only has this squareish plastic/rubber block, and the screw seems to have a "nut" half way up the threads. you only feel wiggle when you pump it. otherwise i was killing a silhouette ram at 35 yards yesterday... today im stretching it out to 45...
I had a similar problem with one I received from CMP. The aluminum receiver was stripped out. I had to buy a replacement.
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I was under the impression 3 spacers come with the gun..I only received 2...with 2 the lop is 13 1/2” which I can work with...
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I have made 3 orders for 853's from CMP. I have only received 2 spacers per air rifle.
BobH.
I was under the impression 3 spacers come with the gun..I only received 2...with 2 the lop is 13 1/2” which I can work with...
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Same here... :(
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I'd contact the CMP program and ask.
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I have made 3 orders for 853's from CMP. I have only received 2 spacers per air rifle.
BobH.
I was under the impression 3 spacers come with the gun..I only received 2...with 2 the lop is 13 1/2” which I can work with...
Sorry Bob.. I didn't see this before I posted.
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TennX, I'd be interested in hearing how the 2078 sight works for you. Is it like the one below? Are you going to keep the globe front sight? IIRC they include a post insert for it.
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That’s the sight I offered to u....actually I have the gun on the money using the included peep and globe front....the front sight was wonky but once I loosened and lined up ,gun shoots fine at 10meters...I think I will work it this way for a while....I really liked the open on the ar but went ahead and scoped it...
The order form I used showed 3 spacers ...that’s why I asked..no biggie LOP is 13 1/2 with 2 I can work it... ;) if I need parts can order extra...besides I have bushings to make spacers...
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Good deal! (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
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Congrats!
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Gun is in great shape and tack driver at 10 meters....using factory sights...talked to CMP and as mentioned they only come with 2 spacers, but they are sending me a third....even though I stated 2 was fine.. ;)
PS..I like the used look, but am tempted to refinish as this is a fine looking gun..
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Very nice Phil!
I have heard both answers in the past, Would you call it "adult sized"?
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Very nice Phil!
I have heard both answers in the past, Would you call it "adult sized"?
I would with spacers in place..as I mentioned LOP is 13 1/2” from trigger to butt plate using 2 spacers...just got email CMP is sending me 1 extra free( dont think I need it)....FYI Daisy sells them in a 3 pack....
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I would also call it adult sized. Using 3 spacers, my 853 w/'sporter' stock has a 14" LOP and it feels fine for the offhand/open sight shooting I do.
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I would suggest that anybody ordering a 853 ask for a extra spacer ... ;)...even though I dont need it ..looking forward to even 14”...
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Hey TennX
Hate to be a bother, but was wondering how you purchased your 853.
Did you download and printout the mail-in form with a check and then wait?
Or did you call somebody and give them a CC number?
Do you still get to choose between the sporter and target stock?
Thanks
Ray
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Hey TennX
Hate to be a bother, but was wondering how you purchased your 853.
Did you download and printout the mail-in form with a check and then wait?
Or did you call somebody and give them a CC number?
Do you still get to choose between the sporter and target stock?
Thanks
Ray
I used a order form and sent check...but the order form has place for cc...from the time I sent check to delivery about 8 days...lot of guys fax cc # and order.. yes u can order stock preference ..order below...
http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/DaisyUsedRifles.pdf (http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/DaisyUsedRifles.pdf)
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Hey TennX
Hate to be a bother, but was wondering how you purchased your 853.
Did you download and printout the mail-in form with a check and then wait?
Or did you call somebody and give them a CC number?
Do you still get to choose between the sporter and target stock?
Thanks
Ray
I printed out the mail-in form and mailed it with a check for $119.95 to the address on the form.
There is a place on the form that lets you choose which stock you want.
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Thanks fellows
Ray
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I would suggest that anybody ordering a 853 ask for a extra spacer ... ;)...even though I dont need it ..looking forward to even 14”...
I like a short LOP because I shoot with my eyeglasses right against the peep sight.