GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: FuzzyGrub on February 27, 2017, 11:30:53 AM
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OK, after doing some checking over the weekend, I think I have come up with my next project. It is going to be a meld of a Maximus and Prod/Mrod parts. The key first step will be fitting a Prod valve to the maximus air tube. It looks like the valve will fit, but only have two of the three valve retainer screws. So with Magnum Airgun upgraded screws, it will only be a 2400psi max fill, unless I find a way to secure a 3rd screw. Note: there is a hole in the maximus air tube too close to drill for the standard spot on the prod valve.
WARNING! This thread shows modifications done to the air tube. These modifications may have extreme safety consequences. No analysis or testing has been done to verify any safety margins. Any modifications done are at the risk of those performing them.
One question I have is about the maximus gauge block. While pictures I’ve seen it looks like a disco gauge block, but from the maximus schematic it has a different part number. That leads me to something has changed in it, and my suspicion is the length is slightly different. I suspect that change might have been necessary to go with new valve but keep gauge port hole the same for stock compatibility. I am planning on using the Prod gauge block, but if it is too long, would have to mod a maximus one. Anyone know what the change was?
Other Parts:
- Mrod Gen 1 trigger
- Prod Breech & Bolt (need to drill air tube)
- Prod End cap/adj & Hammer
- Mrod barrel
- Custom length shroud
Initial parts were ordered this AM. Ordered the syn stock for now, was only $18 and change. A boyd's will probably replace it, once the project gets near completion.
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Seems like a lot of work.
How much total money and time will you have invested in this project?
What will make the end result better than something you could have bought off the shelf for around the same money?
I'm sincerely asking. :)
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hey Fuzzy love the hybrid builds as you know, will be watching and learning... ;D
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hey Fuzzy love the hybrid builds as you know, will be watching and learning... ;D
Kirby, we'll see how these crosman lego's go together. :) This shouldn't be a busy time for crosman, and might have the parts by the end of the week. I have a prod air tube, so making the drill template should go well.
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Interesting project!
Curious what your goals are. And why the Prod valve instead of the Disco or.Maximus? Higher shot count maybe?
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Interesting project!
Curious what your goals are. And why the Prod valve instead of the Disco or.Maximus? Higher shot count maybe?
Two of the Prod breech screws thread into the valve. I don't believe the maximus or disco valve have enough material in that area. Even if they did, getting it right with DIY caveman tools would be a challenge.
It will be the mate to this rifle:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MProd.jpg)
It will start off life as a 22 cal, because that is what barrel and bolt I have. Plan would be to go to 177 cal (waiting for F&T barrel) and would probably get a regulator at that time. Mrods are about as heavy a gun as I'd like to carry, but prefer something lighter.
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I like this idea of a lighter weight repeater with the shrouded barrel.
Of course I don't know much about pressure tolerances of the mixing and matching parts from different guns with different fill pressure.
But the valve and retainer screws are the weak link and not the tube itself?
The Disco and Maximus tubes are equal in strength?
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I like this idea of a lighter weight repeater with the shrouded barrel.
Of course I don't know much about pressure tolerances of the mixing and matching parts from different guns with different fill pressure.
But the valve and retainer screws are the weak link and not the tube itself?
The Disco and Maximus tubes are equal in strength?
the tubes are the same strength and in both models the valve pinning is the weakest link..
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This project excites and intrigues me. I like the purpose of this type of build, and seeing a bunch of fun Lego bits come together with a little elbow grease in a pellet delivery package just shows why Crosman deserves our money.
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It's a shame that it is hard to use a Maximus barrel in this project, as it is in a Mrod. As the Maximus/new barrel from Crosman is Vastly superior in the accuracy department.
I would love to see the New Barrels come to the Mrod and Prod lines. I understand that the New Mrod FT does have the new barrels.
I too, mostly due to severe back issues, very much enjoy and appreciate the lightweight of the Maximus. ;) 8)
I have opened the valve port, tp, and barrel port, and am very pleased with the results in the Maximus. It is exactly where I want it with JSB 18's
It was at 760 fps factory, and now at 890's with the mod's. With the adjuster for the hammer spring I picked upo from Discos R Us, it will easily go higher. And can be turned down just as easily for the CPL's. ;)
Knife
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So, there is no modding required to mount the Mrod barrel to the Prod receiver?
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Michael,
You could, but it would need to go to a machinist. They will cut about 1/2" off the breech end and machine it for the prod tp style and location, along with leade and o-ring groove. Talk to rocker1 if you are interested in doing that. That is where the custom length shroud will come from. ;)
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So, there is no modding required to mount the Mrod barrel to the Prod receiver?
I have done that a few times. It takes minor modification to fit. Mostly it is the two set-screw and shroud mount flats have to be filed into barrel at the different locations. If the mag is too tight, might have to take a little off the breech end of barrel. Somewhere here there is an old thread on GTA when I first did it, with pics.
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Just received a UPS notice, parts should be at the house, end of day Wednesday. :)
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Interesting project!
Curious what your goals are. And why the Prod valve instead of the Disco or.Maximus? Higher shot count maybe?
Two of the Prod breech screws thread into the valve. I don't believe the maximus or disco valve have enough material in that area. Even if they did, getting it right with DIY caveman tools would be a challenge.
It will be the mate to this rifle:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MProd.jpg)
It will start off life as a 22 cal, because that is what barrel and bolt I have. Plan would be to go to 177 cal (waiting for F&T barrel) and would probably get a regulator at that time. Mrods are about as heavy a gun as I'd like to carry, but prefer something lighter.
What are the specs on that beauty?
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What are the specs on that beauty?
That has a custom airtube by Jim at MM, and a Blaster stock from Disco R Us. A little shorter than a disco or maximus tube, otherwise the same as what was planned for this. The key is the much more affordable tube from crosman.
Please Note: In this picture the Prod breech is shimmed and uses a Mrod shroud. It currently does not have the riser and has a Prod dia shroud followed by LDC. That worked better and got the cheek weld lower and more manageable.
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How much weight do you expect to save over a Synrod?
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How much weight do you expect to save over a Synrod?
My guess would be that the mods would only add 8-12ozs to the maximus.
My 25 cal Synrod with a simmons 44 mag scope is 9.8lbs. My 22 cal Mrod with BSA scope is 10.2lbs. The Blaster with a Leapers scope is 8lbs. 2lbs is allot, and probably more with the max syn stock.
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Very cool idea.
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Good Looking! 8)
I do enjoy the feather weight of the Maximum Stock. One of the things that sold me on the gun. That, and the Anschutz/CZ .22 pb style stock. ;)
Knife
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Interesting project!
Curious what your goals are. And why the Prod valve instead of the Disco or.Maximus? Higher shot count maybe?
Two of the Prod breech screws thread into the valve. I don't believe the maximus or disco valve have enough material in that area. Even if they did, getting it right with DIY caveman tools would be a challenge.
It will be the mate to this rifle:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MProd.jpg)
It will start off life as a 22 cal, because that is what barrel and bolt I have. Plan would be to go to 177 cal (waiting for F&T barrel) and would probably get a regulator at that time. Mrods are about as heavy a gun as I'd like to carry, but prefer something lighter.
Gotcha
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Interesting project!
Curious what your goals are. And why the Prod valve instead of the Disco or.Maximus? Higher shot count maybe?
Two of the Prod breech screws thread into the valve. I don't believe the maximus or disco valve have enough material in that area. Even if they did, getting it right with DIY caveman tools would be a challenge.
It will be the mate to this rifle:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MProd.jpg)
It will start off life as a 22 cal, because that is what barrel and bolt I have. Plan would be to go to 177 cal (waiting for F&T barrel) and would probably get a regulator at that time. Mrods are about as heavy a gun as I'd like to carry, but prefer something lighter.
John
I posted on the Disco upgrade thread also but will post here as well. I was not aware that there is a difference between the Disco and Maximus tubes that would prevent the Prod valve from working in the Disco tube. I was not aware that crosman had released the part list for the Maximus yet or did you have them send you one when you called to order parts.
I am interested in this conversion as well.
Mike
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Well, the box was on the deck when I got home. :) I haven't been through all the parts yet, but had to know if the valve was going to work. Boy, they do put allot of oil in those tubes to prevent rust! And the answer is, it fits! :) I slid the valve in the tube and using two screws from Magnum Airpower, and the exhaust sits dead center in the TP hole. The screw heads were a very good fit, not like some of the prod/1720T ones I have. The bottom hole for the 3rd screw is offset, as I suspected. Not sure yet if I'll find anther position to make it a 3K psi gun. But, if not, good to 2400, will be good enough.
I also slid in the prod gauge block and my fears were unfounded. It is dead center in the hole butted up against the valve. :)
Anyway, going to get back to the inventory of parts. I'll post some pics latter this evening.
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this is awesome.so you will have a solid mounting base from the p-rod breech to p-rod valve on the disco tube.. I wonder how we all missed this for soo long.. WELL done sir@
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Couldn't agree more with Rob. Every time I've seen this asked it was stated that the transfer port wouldn't line up. This is great news.
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I think everyone assumed this was just a disco in syn clothing. I did hear some rumblings about the valve being different, but didn't think much of it until I saw some pics posted by a GTA member.
Here is a pic of the transfer port. My Prod stub tube is shown, and can see the four holes I need to drill for breech.
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-TP.jpg)
Here is the bottom view and can see the screw offset issue.
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-bottom.jpg)
And side view showing the fit of the Magnum Air Power valve screws.
(http://joefish.homestead.com/publishImages/Maximus-Prime~~element2.jpg)
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John
I posted on the Disco upgrade thread also but will post here as well. I was not aware that there is a difference between the Disco and Maximus tubes that would prevent the Prod valve from working in the Disco tube. I was not aware that crosman had released the part list for the Maximus yet or did you have them send you one when you called to order parts.
I am interested in this conversion as well.
Mike
The maximus schematics were released a couple of weeks ago, but you can't see that kind of detail. I was surprised that the air tube has separate part numbers based on caliber. The difference only being the caliber is printed in small letters on one side.
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i keep looking at the rear breech screws wondering if and how that affects the hammer .. i see now , the screws need to go to the rear cap
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i keep looking at the rear breech screws wondering if and how that affects the hammer .. i see now , the screws need to go to the rear cap
Yes, you have to use the Prod end cap which is more squared off than the max/disco. From looking at the syn stock, I'll have to take a bit off for that to fit. The plus for max owners, you get a power adjuster with it. :)
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makes sense, and skips the need to tap 2 new holes in the stock rear cap..
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Sounds close to my build. I bought a maximus. I got the 2400 PSI screws, using a Gmac 2240 multi shot breech. Only had to tap one hole to make it work. A aftermarket trigger. Everybody like could have bought a Mrod for what you paid to build you.
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(http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y536/familyman811/Mobile%20Uploads/20160801_212718_zps0h8zqnju.jpg) (http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/familyman811/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160801_212718_zps0h8zqnju.jpg.html)
Sounds similar to what I did with the .177 LW 2300kt... worked out amazingly well. I did something similar with my frankendisco in .22 started In '15 as a boss valve beast 14 gr @ 1100 fps heavies were a hammer..and then a prod valve attempt I botched lol ruined the valve..
Settled on mostly stock parts with a brass trigger and a few goodies. I have my .177 Maximus arriving tomorrow along with the Mrod trigger kit and those same valve screws you have... too "dang" much fun to tinker with
(http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y536/familyman811/IMG_20140706_014424_569_zps57ddefc8.jpg) (http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/familyman811/media/IMG_20140706_014424_569_zps57ddefc8.jpg.html)
(http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y536/familyman811/Mobile%20Uploads/20160907_195504_zpson9hsuay.jpg) (http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/familyman811/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160907_195504_zpson9hsuay.jpg.html)
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some of the pictures here did not' load. What would be the problem with drilling and tapping holes in the Maximus valve and tube for this conversion?
The Maximus already has the smaller dia. valve stem. So it can easily be made to flow better. Mine sure does! :D A little valve work, gage block work, transfer port and barrel port work and polish, and she is getting up to 930 with JSB 18 gr. compared to 760 out of the Box.
Would love a repeater breach though. ;)
Knife
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i keep looking at the rear breech screws wondering if and how that affects the hammer .. i see now , the screws need to go to the rear cap
Yes, you have to use the Prod end cap which is more squared off than the max/disco. From looking at the syn stock, I'll have to take a bit off for that to fit. The plus for max owners, you get a power adjuster with it. :)
John
I have a Prod end cap on my Maximus now and the stock does not need to have clearance made for it to fit. It fits perfect and I have drilled out the small threads on the outer side and tapped them to the same threads that the adjuster uses so spring changes are a breeze and do not require the end cap removed.
Mike
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John
I have a Prod end cap on my Maximus now and the stock does not need to have clearance made for it to fit. It fits perfect and I have drilled out the small threads on the outer side and tapped them to the same threads that the adjuster uses so spring changes are a breeze and do not require the end cap removed.
Mike
Good to know. I just did a visual, and hadn't laid the parts in the tube yet.
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So, is it just the transfer port that is in the wrong spot for this to work in a disco tube? Or is it all the screws are in the wrong spot for this to work in a disco tube?
I've already fit a disco valve to my 2400, I'm thinking if all I need to do is drill the tube for the correct TP location, this is a fairly easy upgrade even for 22xx/disco owners with access to the right equipment. Even if they almost overlap, one could counterbore the valve slightly for a tubing transfer port (or teflon if you're so inclined).
I know someone will set me straight!!
Kevin
Edit: To clarify, I'm talking about fitting a PROD valve in a disco/22xx tube and fitting a PROD breach on top of it.
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Sounds close to my build. I bought a maximus. I got the 2400 PSI screws, using a Gmac 2240 multi shot breech. Only had to tap one hole to make it work. A aftermarket trigger. Everybody like could have bought a Mrod for what you paid to build you.
It looks like it must use some type of thimble (built in the block) to use the oem barrel. If I was starting with a max, I'd have to cut and crown the barrel to get it in a manageable length shroud. If there is no choke, that wouldn't be much of a problem. As I mentioned earlier, not too fond of the mounting of the breech with only two screws, one very tiny. If you are happy with it, that is all that matters.
Gun builds do not have a positive roi. "Built" guns very seldom bring much money. Almost always, need to return gun to stock and sell the mod pieces separately. It is the enjoyment of doing and having something that not everyone has. It might be more economical for someone starting from a prod and wants a rifle, but that is their decision. I have fun and post the info such that others can use and decide what they would do.
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So, is it just the transfer port that is in the wrong spot for this to work in a disco tube? Or is it all the screws are in the wrong spot for this to work in a disco tube?
I've already fit a disco valve to my 2400, I'm thinking if all I need to do is drill the tube for the correct TP location, this is a fairly easy upgrade even for 22xx/disco owners with access to the right equipment. Even if they almost overlap, one could counterbore the valve slightly for a tubing transfer port (or teflon if you're so inclined).
I know someone will set me straight!!
Kevin
Edit: To clarify, I'm talking about fitting a PROD valve in a disco/22xx tube and fitting a PROD breach on top of it.
The disco tp hole location is right where it needs to be for the breech. It is the valve screw holes that don't align. You would have to redo them in the valve or the tube or both. Trying to drill holes in the tube that match the prod valve will be very close to the existing, and the bottom one is out. Trying to drill new holes in the prod valve is no easy matter. The current ones are at the back of the valve where there is more "meat". Moving them forward means you can't drill too deep or will hit valve cavity or pocket. You also need to machine a flat for each screw to get the right strength loading.
Someone here on GTA has done it though, I believe they drilled new holes in the breech. There is always a way, just different shades of difficulty. For myself, if I had to use the disco tube, I would probably choose an aftermarket breech.
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It definitely sounds like a mod better suited to the maximus than the disco/22xx for sure. Like you said, with the right tools/time/money anything can be done, whether one wants to undertake it is a completely different matter!
Thanks John. I'm gonna keep watching nonetheless.
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I am pretty sure a person could use secure a prod valve in a disco tube using the stock valve screw holes. You would just have to drill a new t-port in the tube. The Breech would sit a little bit forwards from the end of the tube.
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I am pretty sure a person could use secure a prod valve in a disco tube using the stock valve screw holes. You would just have to drill a new t-port in the tube. The Breech would sit a little bit forwards from the end of the tube.
Which I believe would also change your hammer throw? Is there enough bolt travel on the stock PROD breech to accommodate sliding it forward/back in relation to the trigger sears? I definitely think this is further down the rabbit hole than I'd want to go (at least on my 2400 HPA conversion).
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I am pretty sure a person could use secure a prod valve in a disco tube using the stock valve screw holes. You would just have to drill a new t-port in the tube. The Breech would sit a little bit forwards from the end of the tube.
Which I believe would also change your hammer throw? Is there enough bolt travel on the stock PROD breech to accommodate sliding it forward/back in relation to the trigger sears? I definitely think this is further down the rabbit hole than I'd want to go (at least on my 2400 HPA conversion).
Cut the extra off the tube. You might have to use a dremel to lengthen the hammer pin slot. ;)
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wouldnt the slot be longer on the disco/ maximus tube? Mayeb using the p-rod spring with the disco hammer?
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I guess you just spend the extra $26 and use the maximus tube. Or, if one was so inclined, it looks like you could potentially redrill the 2400/disco tube for the new valve locations knowing they almost overlap. Joe posted pics over on the guild (http://airgunguild.com/pcp-c02-and-helium-powered-airguns/the-power-maximo/msg14763/#msg14763) showing the specific differences between the 2 valves, and the direction that the screws move means the thin section between the existing discovery screw clearance in the tube and the screws required to fit a PROD valve would not be in the direction of pressure; HOWEVER, I have no idea what the result would be if this was ever accidentally overloaded. Personally, I'd want to do a pressure test and make sure all was safe.
Since those pics show that the transfer port are in the same spot, I don't really see why you couldn't just use the discovery valve and drill/tap for the PROD breech screws?
I'm guessing this is the fella that mated the PROD breech to the disco: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=100696.msg945401#msg945401 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=100696.msg945401#msg945401)
That being said, John, sorry for hijacking your thread!
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I am pretty sure a person could use secure a prod valve in a disco tube using the stock valve screw holes. You would just have to drill a new t-port in the tube. The Breech would sit a little bit forwards from the end of the tube.
You would have to cut the hammer and trigger sear channels longer. Not sure where the trigger pack mounting holes will end up. The big killer can be the gauge port. The valve would block it from being in correct position. I can look more closely at it tonight, but just off-hand this approach would be even more work and higher probability for other issues.
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I guess you just spend the extra $26 and use the maximus tube. Or, if one was so inclined, it looks like you could potentially redrill the 2400/disco tube for the new valve locations knowing they almost overlap. Joe posted pics over on the guild (http://airgunguild.com/pcp-c02-and-helium-powered-airguns/the-power-maximo/msg14763/#msg14763) showing the specific differences between the 2 valves, and the direction that the screws move means the thin section between the existing discovery screw clearance in the tube and the screws required to fit a PROD valve would not be in the direction of pressure; HOWEVER, I have no idea what the result would be if this was ever accidentally overloaded. Personally, I'd want to do a pressure test and make sure all was safe.
Since those pics show that the transfer port are in the same spot, I don't really see why you couldn't just use the discovery valve and drill/tap for the PROD breech screws?
I'm guessing this is the fella that mated the PROD breech to the disco: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=100696.msg945401#msg945401 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=100696.msg945401#msg945401)
That being said, John, sorry for hijacking your thread!
No, issue with discussing the disco tube. It is the reason I went with the max, because I didn't see a relative easy way to do it with disco. If there was, be glad to hear about it.
Yes, that is the build I was talking about. He does excellent work.
I also agree that the load bearing side of the valve screws would be opposite of the screw hole that may break into. Is that good, don't know.
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John
I just looked closer at my Maximus for interference between the end cap and the stock and it does have just a very slight interference at the lower portion of the stock in the 4 and 8 o clock positions. I will be removing the action to relieve the stock on mine in those areas. It appears that action is possibly sitting just a smidge high at the rear in the stock and the end cap has forced some of the plastic of the stock outward in those areas.
Thank you for mentioning that as I did not catch it when installing the action in the stock since its so slight it was not noticeable till you mentioned it.
Mike
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For the mrod trigger, I think I'll add the 3rd screw for better integrity. I'll have to do a small relief in the valve like the mrod has. What did bother me is the standard stock lug. It is same for disco and max. That is a very small diameter screw which holds the stock and stock screw. I'd think it would be very easy to strip out. Someone has probably come up with fixes for this already, so thought I'd ask.
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What did bother me is the standard stock lug. It is same for disco and max. That is a very small diameter screw which holds the stock and stock screw. I'd think it would be very easy to strip out.
Funny you should mention that. I've only had my Disco a few months and the lug hole is already stripped. It appears the lug was machined slightly too long, my valve has a definite indention from the end of the lug. I guess I'll add an airtube and lug to my next Crosman order.
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I had the stock lug hole strip out in one of my Disco tubes as well and it was hitting the valve also. I was able to fix it with a similar type standoff part t had in my nut and bolts drawer. it was metric threads with 6mmx1.0mm pitch for the stud and lug so I carefully taped the tube to 6mmx1.0mm and ground the stud to clear the valve and found a beveled screw in 6mmx1.0mm to hold the stock in place and is still doing good now.
It was similar to this standoff and I believe this would work as well.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#92499a505/=16l1tf5 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#92499a505/=16l1tf5)
Mike
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Thanks. I'll check the local hardware store and try that first.
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It looks like the original was 8-32 male and 1/4-20 on the female.
The male length is 7/16", along with hex size and length.
Measuring the thickness of the trigger pack and tube, shouldn't come close to hitting valve, since it is in that relief area.
I think I'll stay with the existing, and make sure it is blue loctited in. Still going to do 3rd screw as long as valve has some roon for the clearance.
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It looks like the original was 8-32 male and 1/4-20 on the female.
The male length is 7/16", along with hex size and length.
Measuring the thickness of the trigger pack and tube, shouldn't come close to hitting valve, since it is in that relief area.
I think I'll stay with the existing, and make sure it is blue loctited in. Still going to do 3rd screw as long as valve has some roon for the clearance.
Yea if the tube is not stripped I would Loctite it and just tighten enough to keep the trigger pack tight and shorten so it is not hitting the valve.. My tube was stripped and I did not want to wait for a new tube to be mailed to me. It worked out good.
Mike
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John
I just looked closer at my Maximus for interference between the end cap and the stock and it does have just a very slight interference at the lower portion of the stock in the 4 and 8 o clock positions. I will be removing the action to relieve the stock on mine in those areas. It appears that action is possibly sitting just a smidge high at the rear in the stock and the end cap has forced some of the plastic of the stock outward in those areas.
Thank you for mentioning that as I did not catch it when installing the action in the stock since its so slight it was not noticeable till you mentioned it.
Mike
Mike,
I did a test fit tube to stock, with and without an end cap. Yes, it will take a little trimming of the stock. Dowel rod or dremel won't be hard.
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-Endcap.jpg)
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-NoEndcap.jpg)
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-MrodT.jpg)
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Oh wow that trigger really fits🤔
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never been much of a Schnabel fore stock fan... to make it worse it looks like/is a plastic tulip... worth it for the low price and light weight... just wish it looked like a disco stock...
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John
I just looked closer at my Maximus for interference between the end cap and the stock and it does have just a very slight interference at the lower portion of the stock in the 4 and 8 o clock positions. I will be removing the action to relieve the stock on mine in those areas. It appears that action is possibly sitting just a smidge high at the rear in the stock and the end cap has forced some of the plastic of the stock outward in those areas.
Thank you for mentioning that as I did not catch it when installing the action in the stock since its so slight it was not noticeable till you mentioned it.
Mike
Mike,
I did a test fit tube to stock, with and without an end cap. Yes, it will take a little trimming of the stock. Dowel rod or dremel won't be hard.
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-Endcap.jpg)
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-NoEndcap.jpg)
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-MrodT.jpg)
Yep I saw that today when I checked the fit and its not much at all that will need trimmed to clear the cap.
The Mrod trigger fits real good in the stock, so what trigger housing are you going to use. Will you be installing the challenger trigger guard like most do or are you going to try to fit another more conventional guard in place instead.
Did you use any kind of shim under the Mrod trigger or change out the sear with one that has a lower profile. If not then how will you compensate for the difference in tube thickness.
Mike
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I'm exactly the opposite. Always Loved the Anschutz/CZ Sporter Stocks, and the Max. is very close. On the other hand, I always found the Disco stock to be extremely cheap, and poorly designed. Butt ugly to me. ;D ;D
And exactly why different seats for different rears! ;)
Knife
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Looking good grub .. I stripped my stock lug installing my Mrod trigger kit today :-[
But have another lug on its way. Seemed like I had but 2 or 3 threads a best after spacer.. how was yours if you recall?
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The trigger pack was just mounted for the test fit. No shims yet, but those are easy to make from plastic or thin brass washers. Good point FM, those shims lesson the thread engagement. :( When I test fitted on the Prod stub, the threads barely made it to the inside of tube. My search on MC did not find the oem size or one just slightly bigger. It won't be the first sear I had to file. Just can't go back on a Mrod.
I'm not a big fan of the challenger trigger guard. I haven't decided exactly what I'll do yet. Try making one or find another crosman one that might fit. 2 1/2" pipe hanger? ;)
As far as the stock, it is not bad. It is sturdier in the fore grip than the Mrod syn stock. The mrod you can twist back and forth, but it is also floated to the air tube. This, the air tube snaps into. Found the secret to remove the butt plate (remove sling stud). It is hollow as I thought. It will need some form of cheek riser for the higher breech, and I like to stuff/pack with Styrofoam peanuts, to lesson that hollow sound. I believe it will be balanced, but if muzzle heavy there is room for counter weight.
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Looking at the valve, that 3rd trigger screw relief lines up with the thinnest part of the valve. The thread length will be critical.
Does anyone have the maximus valve inside measurements? Specifically exhaust and pocket behind poppet? Need to open the prod valve for the lower pressure range. I found a spring in my stash that is weaker than prod, but seems the same as the disco. I'm thinking 0.120 - 0.140" on exhaust. The pocket is more limited.
3rd valve screw: It looks like if I used a larger head disco valve screw it would cover that slight offset screw hole on the bottom. Dremeling that hole is going to be a test of my skills. It will also require making the flat on the valve a little wider.
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The trigger pack was just mounted for the test fit. No shims yet, but those are easy to make from plastic or thin brass washers. Good point FM, those shims lesson the thread engagement. :( When I test fitted on the Prod stub, the threads barely made it to the inside of tube. My search on MC did not find the oem size or one just slightly bigger. It won't be the first sear I had to file. Just can't go back on a Mrod.
I'm not a big fan of the challenger trigger guard. I haven't decided exactly what I'll do yet. Try making one or find another crosman one that might fit. 2 1/2" pipe hanger? ;)
As far as the stock, it is not bad. It is sturdier in the fore grip than the Mrod syn stock. The mrod you can twist back and forth, but it is also floated to the air tube. This, the air tube snaps into. Found the secret to remove the butt plate (remove sling stud). It is hollow as I thought. It will need some form of cheek riser for the higher breech, and I like to stuff/pack with Styrofoam peanuts, to lesson that hollow sound. I believe it will be balanced, but if muzzle heavy there is room for counter weight.
Maybe try this?... it's a conventional looking nitro piston 1 guard
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I have one from a vantage, but thought I tried it way back when, and it wasn't long enough. Not sure, so worth finding and trying again. Thx for the reminder.
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WARNING! This thread shows modifications done to the air tube. These modifications may have extreme safety consequences. No analysis or testing has been done to verify any safety margins. Any modifications done are at the risk of those performing them.
Made a template from a plastic gal water bottle. The translucent help with locating the holes. Top 3 are reference and then the breech screws.
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-Template.jpg)
Then transfer to the max tube:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-Mark.jpg)
Also marked for the 3rd valve screw, larger disco screw, and the trigger screw::
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-BottomM.jpg)
Breech results:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-BreechS.jpg)
Valve screw results. 3rd trigger screw drilled and tapped to 8-32:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-3rdValveS.jpg)
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Valve Mods:
Exhaust opened from 0.110" to 0.125"
Pocket opened from 0.200" to 0.225"
Slight Inlet increase
Drilled cap to fit the conical spring
Filed flat relief for 3rd trigger screw
Filed flat for larger 3rd valve screw
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-Valve.jpg)
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lookin awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Air tube pressurized for the over night leak test.
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Looking good John.
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looks like a very delicate balance with those longer screws for the breech going through the valve..
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I couldn't hold out. Shot a string of JSB's. A couple things need to be tweaked, of course, trigger, etc I put in request for a 24" shroud and LW hammer. Also placed order for Huma reg. I will open valve up some more since going reg. (0.140- 0.160")
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looks like a very delicate balance with those longer screws for the breech going through the valve..
Not sure what you mean, they are just the standard 4-40 x 1.125" SHCS. I just ran them in to make sure they were not contacting the edges of the air tube holes.
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i simply meant the risk of leaking.. since i wasnt sure if the rear of the valve is sealed to the tube... but think i see now the front 2 are sealed off from any air
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i simply meant the risk of leaking.. since i wasnt sure if the rear of the valve is sealed to the tube... but think i see now the front 2 are sealed off from any air
You are correct. That part is sealed off. The holes run all the way through the valve, and do not enter into valve cavity. The front o-ring and there is an internal o-ring that keeps everything in check.
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gotcha .. i cannot wait to see a pic of the breech installed
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Looking real good so far and since you could not wait and shot it some already. Is it worth the effort so far in just the preliminary shots showing an increase in performance.
Its likely to early to get shot counts or accuracy results..
Mike
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Here are a couple of pictures. I just pulled a scope off the shelf, and slid a shroud on for the pics.
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-SideA.jpg)
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-SideB.jpg)
The spring was not long enough, but still had JSB's 18.1g shooting 750-800fps, with low preload. And remember the barrel length has been reduced down to 20".
Accuracy, with no scope or sights, I never missed the wood stove opening at 10yds. ;)
The reg wil take a couple of weeks to arrive, and my friend David (Rocker1) confirmed a shroud and LW hammer. :) So plenty of time to work the nits and stuff.
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that looks awersome man ! 8)
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Valve Mods:
Exhaust opened from 0.110" to 0.125"
Pocket opened from 0.200" to 0.225"
Slight Inlet increase
Drilled cap to fit the conical spring
Filed flat relief for 3rd trigger screw
Filed flat for larger 3rd valve screw
(http://joefish.homestead.com/MaxP-Valve.jpg)
John,
Do you have any photos of the (Drilled cap to fit the conical spring) or even a few measurements would be appreciated.
I picked up some of the TA 2122 century springs and I havent modded the valve to fit them yet.
Thx Randy
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John,
Do you have any photos of the (Drilled cap to fit the conical spring) or even a few measurements would be appreciated.
I picked up some of the TA 2122 century springs and I havent modded the valve to fit them yet.
Thx Randy
Randy, I don't have any pictures of that but when I open it up some more, will take some. Basically, the conical spring I have, the large end did not fit in the cap, and was a little shorter than stock. I just picked a drill that it would fit in, and only drilled about half way down. Hope the verbal helps.
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Hey John, thanks for the tip on openning up the valve cap.
Verbal is fine, no worries on not having any pic's :D
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That's going to look really good with a full shroud on the barrel and a trigger guard in place. Almost like a baby Mrod and looking forward to the shot strings after its tuned and the accuracy with the shorter barrel.
Mike
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Almost like a baby Mrod
That is the goal. :) Well, maybe a young adult, late teen, etc. All the spunk, just not the weight. ;)
Shot count target is 30 at 30FPE. Anything more is gravy.
David said the shroud is done already! wow.. LW hammers are next, The reg will take a week or two.
I have the valve back out and doing more work. Exhaust is now 0.160" and will take the pocket a little further, then clean it up.
I might put on my 20" LW barrel, and if so, need to modify the shroud mounts for the larger OD.
and still have to do some trigger adjusting.
But, the hard stuff / unknowns are over. :)
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Yes I would go with the LW barrel on it. I have a LW 20 inch barrel from a Daisy Avanti that will be used on a disco tube gun I have for a project in the works.
You can buy the LW barrels for the Avanti from daisy for 65 bucks that include the valve body and barrel. Then press the barrel out of the valve body and cut the spigot off the breech end and drill for TP port and rework the leade and makes a cheap LW barrel for use in a crosman.
Mike
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WARNING! This thread shows modifications done to the air tube. These modifications may have extreme safety consequences. No analysis or testing has been done to verify any safety margins. Any modifications done are at the risk of those performing them.
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Valve exhaust is now 0.160" and pocket is 0.230" and TP 0.160". Assembled with the 20" LW barrel and test string was throwing JSB 18.1g over 870 fps with minimum hammer, to bellow 1.3Kpsi.
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How many shots at that power level are you getting out of it now. What is the fill pressure you start it at. Looks like its a powerhouse for sure.
Mike
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How many shots at that power level are you getting out of it now. What is the fill pressure you start it at. Looks like its a powerhouse for sure.
Mike
I have a leak at the gauge block, so starting pressure was down to 2.6K. I shot 3 mags, 24 shots. Peaked around 920fps.
Really was just testing that the porting was plenty for the lower pressure that the reg will be set to. Just have to see if I'll have enough plenum.
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How many shots at that power level are you getting out of it now. What is the fill pressure you start it at. Looks like its a powerhouse for sure.
Mike
I have a leak at the gauge block, so starting pressure was down to 2.6K. I shot 3 mags, 24 shots. Peaked around 920fps.
Really was just testing that the porting was plenty for the lower pressure that the reg will be set to. Just have to see if I'll have enough plenum.
That's not bad from 2600 to 1300 psi for 24 shots above 30 fpe. It shaping up to be a good light gun making very good power with fairly easy mods.
Mike
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Keep us posted on that block ... I have a leak there too.. at least I think.
It passed the 10 for 10 at PA they said it didn't leak anyway came bout 1000 psi
I have had it apart 3 times now .. new O rings throughout, checked poppet..even tried a new spare block and it's still leaking ever so slowly.
Fill nipple?
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I have verified mine was leaking at the gauge port with soap suds. The prod gauge block rotated in the tube pushing it down with dowel rod. I imagine I sliced an o-ring rotating it at the hole.
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About forgive my ignorance...soap suds?
Like just get some dish suds all around it?
I was so desperate to solve it I debated submerging lol
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About forgive my ignorance...soap suds?
Like just get some dish suds all around it?
I was so desperate to solve it I debated submerging lol
No, one of those hand soap dispensers, that when you pump it, produces a foam. I just cover the area around the gauge hole and watch.
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I have a tool I got from the vendor we cannot mention here that fits on the tube that has a protrusion on it to fill the hole in the tube so the o ring does not push up as it passes over the hole in the tube for Mrods that works very well. I do not think they make one for the Disco, Maximus or Prods but I use my thumb lubed up with silicone grease pressed hard into the hole as I push the block in to do basically the same thing preventing the o ring from being cut on the hole.
I have also used a hole deburring tool to remove any sharp edges in the inner lip of the tubes as well. It can be frustrating to keep having a leak at the gauge block from cut o rings as I had my share till I bought the tool for the Mrod and learned to use my thumb on the others.
Mike
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That is the most common way to nick the o-ring. I know of the tool you are speaking about. I just use the side flat blade screw driver to press down on the o-ring.
In this case, I rotated the gauge block while the 1st o-ring was across the hole. I shouldn't have done that. :-[
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Replaced the gauge block O-rings and seems to be holding steady.
Installed the TSS, and ran a string with no preload. I was not expecting a low Es string, since I went to a light poppet for the reg/LW hammer that is coming, but thought I'd try it anyway. 3K to 1.4K, 864-946-866 for 27 shots with JSB 18.1g pellets. From 2.6K to 1.6K, 911-946-909 for 18 shots. The center 10 shots were 943-946-942.
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Does anybody know if there is enough clearance to mount the Marauder shroud on the Discovery using the factory steel breech without a riser?
Obviously the barrel would have to be shortened, and possibly the air tube, along with some sort of custom barrel band.
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Does anybody know if there is enough clearance to mount the Marauder shroud on the Discovery using the factory steel breech without a riser?
Obviously the barrel would have to be shortened, and possibly the air tube, along with some sort of custom barrel band.
Neither the Mrod shroud or the smaller diameter Prod shroud will fit a steel breech without a riser.
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Does anybody know if there is enough clearance to mount the Marauder shroud on the Discovery using the factory steel breech without a riser?
Obviously the barrel would have to be shortened, and possibly the air tube, along with some sort of custom barrel band.
Neither the Mrod shroud or the smaller diameter Prod shroud will fit a steel breech without a riser.
OK. Thanks.
I've been watching your build, and parts buying list.
I like the idea of building what you want in a rifle, and although I have not yet owned a PCP I want a lot of the same things. But I figure I could suffer through single loading for a while until I just had to have something better.
I was actually thinking the shroud flush on top of the air tube with a custom barrel band would be the way I wanted to go.
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I was actually thinking the shroud flush on top of the air tube with a custom barrel band would be the way I wanted to go.
The shroud would be above your dovetail, need custom fittings, custom off-set baffles that don't rotate, and will have poi issues with riding along the length of airtube.
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I see.
So it is larger diameter than the steel breech.
I'll have to ponder that a while...
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I see.
So it is larger diameter than the steel breech.
The Mrod shroud for sure, because that is slightly larger than the width of a prod breech. I suspect the 3/4" OD of the Prod shroud is also larger than steel breech, but don't have any of those to measure to be 100%. Anything smaller than Prod shroud, won't help much in its required function.
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Man, I just caught this one. Looks interesting. You answered the M-Rod trigger question for me. Now my Power Maximo will have a friend. I got a .180 exhaust Cothran PowerHouse valve and installed into a Disco tube. Then I just moved my Maximus .177 upper to said tube. Over 1000fps. Took it out yesterday and I really have to slow it down. Just shotguns all my ammo, even the Piledrivers which are 21gr. Going to cut down the 13XX spring even shorter. I hope to get it to dial in next time I take it out. Shown with Paris 'D' LDC and my "Have a nice day" bolt handle.
(http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag124/josephb1969/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170312_101701417_zpsco4az718.jpg)
(http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag124/josephb1969/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170312_101723629_zpsougcjtkj.jpg)
(http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag124/josephb1969/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170308_164116190_zpsu0swpmow.jpg)
The Monkey
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I see.
So it is larger diameter than the steel breech.
The Mrod shroud for sure, because that is slightly larger than the width of a prod breech. I suspect the 3/4" OD of the Prod shroud is also larger than steel breech, but don't have any of those to measure to be 100%. Anything smaller than Prod shroud, won't help much in its required function.
Yeah, you'd need a breech riser to get a shroud to fit with the steel breech.
Joe
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Been under the weather a few days so just getting caught up with this thread. Yes to use either a Prod or Mrod shroud on a steel 13/22xx breech will require a breech riser or taller repeater style breech for the shroud to clear tube.
Yea I have had the same issue with the gauge block rotating when installing it and have yet to figure out any way to stop it from rotating in the tube that works well. I use a piece of PVC pipe to push them into the tube and found that if the pipe has a square end it helps prevent the block from turning if the pipe is kept straight when pushing the block into place. I also put my hand that is not pushing with the PVC pipe at the end of the tube so I can apply pressure to the pipe to prevent it from being able to slip and push the block in past the gauge hole accidentally and cut the o ring. I have not cut any o rings since doing it that way and the block does not rotate out of alignment easily either.
Those Cothran valves are really making tons of power in the guns they are going in and require a different approach to tuning than a regular valve since from what Rsterne has found they don't have a normal curve or knee on the strings but rather have a plateau with a steep cliff that is very narrow in terms of the adjustments so that its more of a on/off type of knee in the curve. It takes very little changes to fall off the plateau of the curve with the Cothran valve but well worth the effort once tuned properly.
Mike
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Man, I just caught this one. Looks interesting. You answered the M-Rod trigger question for me. Now my Power Maximo will have a friend. I got a .180 exhaust Cothran PowerHouse valve and installed into a Disco tube. Then I just moved my Maximus .177 upper to said tube. Over 1000fps. Took it out yesterday and I really have to slow it down. Just shotguns all my ammo, even the Piledrivers which are 21gr. Going to cut down the 13XX spring even shorter. I hope to get it to dial in next time I take it out. Shown with Paris 'D' LDC and my "Have a nice day" bolt handle.
(http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag124/josephb1969/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170312_101701417_zpsco4az718.jpg)
(http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag124/josephb1969/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170312_101723629_zpsougcjtkj.jpg)
(http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag124/josephb1969/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170308_164116190_zpsu0swpmow.jpg)
The Monkey
sounds like it just might work for the 30g BBT with a .22 Max upper...
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Yeah, not my first rodeo with the PowerHouse valves, just for what I want. Should be fun.
Joe
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wonder how the bombs n nasty 27g destroyers work out of the new Barrels..?
rodeo... dad rode with Cayse Tibbs a few times back when he was fresh off the ranch in 1950's... ;)... true tho
not your first, deja voo...
3/13/15 thread.. ;)
https://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php?topic=15109.0 (https://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php?topic=15109.0)
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The regulator has hit the states, and the shroud and hammers will be shipped this week. :)
I still have to figure out a trigger guard. The NP one was too small, and one from a Gen II Mrod stock, is too big. Time to find some metal to bend.
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The regulator has hit the states, and the shroud and hammers will be shipped this week. :)
I still have to figure out a trigger guard. The NP one was too small, and one from a Gen II Mrod stock, is too big. Time to find some metal to bend.
as far as I know the only trigger guard that fits is the challenger, which requires modding the stock on the maximus, and threading a hole in the trigger pack
I should have some sample 3d printed ones in a couple days if you would like to try one?
But I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
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wonder how the bombs n nasty 27g destroyers work out of the new Barrels..?
rodeo... dad rode with Cayse Tibbs a few times back when he was fresh off the ranch in 1950's... ;)... true tho
not your first, deja voo...
3/13/15 thread.. ;)
https://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php?topic=15109.0 (https://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php?topic=15109.0)
My Sumatra carbine loves the Destroyers, the Bombs are to inconsistent in quality and it shows when shooting them after 20yds.
Thanks for the info on your dad, pretty cool.
Joe
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as far as I know the only trigger guard that fits is the challenger, which requires modding the stock on the maximus, and threading a hole in the trigger pack
I should have some sample 3d printed ones in a couple days if you would like to try one?
But I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
That's a great idea of a new product to market. Good thinking.
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The regulator has hit the states, and the shroud and hammers will be shipped this week. :)
I still have to figure out a trigger guard. The NP one was too small, and one from a Gen II Mrod stock, is too big. Time to find some metal to bend.
as far as I know the only trigger guard that fits is the challenger, which requires modding the stock on the maximus, and threading a hole in the trigger pack
I should have some sample 3d printed ones in a couple days if you would like to try one?
But I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Joe, I'm going to be out of cmmision for a few days. 😩
I'd be vary interested in what you come up with. I was starting down the road to mount direct to stock vs trigger assy.
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Farmer Joe
That's great. Not many choices for trigger guards out there. A strong, light, affordable trigger guard, that drops right in and fits like a glove!
Steve
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Hope everything's alright.....
And thanks for letting us follow along with your build. It's looking to be close to what a lot of people would want in an all-around PCP rifle.
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Ok, if they end up working(it make take a retry or two) I'll send you one to get your thoughts on.
I have one that I just have to make a couple tweaks to for the discovery but that is pretty straight forward compared to the maximus ::) ...
In other news, I got in a maximus valve today so now I have to reread this thread so I can better understand what you did with the valve.
but I was a bit surprised to just how different it is from the disco valve, not a bad looking bit of bling either:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4240/35481413422_7f9e4b5316_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W4nw4h)P_20170314_175949 (https://flic.kr/p/W4nw4h) by Joseph Snyder (https://www.flickr.com/photos/149892234@N03/), on Flickr
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As a few of you know, had an "event" early this week that will slow me down some. Luckily, pcp builds are not considered "heavy lifting". :)
I received the Huma reg and rebuild kit:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/Huma-Kit.jpg)
(http://joefish.homestead.com/Huma-Reg.jpg)
I have installed it and run a couple of stings. These strings were slightly low on the power I am wanting, and low on the shot count. I am concerned that the plenum is too small. It is wasting allot of air with the lighter poppet spring and still using the oem hammer weight.
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Also received my package from David today. :)
Shroud:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/DF-Shroud.jpg)
He sent me three hammers of different weights:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/DF-Hammers.jpg)
For those that know David, he always includes other goodies. :)
Here are a bunch of things that screw into Prod shrouds:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/DF0Extras.jpg)
and some useful tools for the DIY work:
(http://joefish.homestead.com/DF-tools.jpg)
Thanks yet again, David. :)
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Now that's what I call a goodie bag for sure. David is always going above and beyond for the forum members.
mike
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You would just have to drill a new t-port in the tube. The Breech would sit a little bit forwards from the end of the tube.
I sold my disco tube, so can't check that. If the breech is moved forward, then you will have some modification to the end cap which the breech screws go into. It would also change the trigger pack screw location.
When I had it, I stared at it for a long time, and there are just so many interrelated parts that it "scared" this DIYer away. The max tube was relatively easy.
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I had set this down for a bit. I had to make a front air stripper shroud mount for the 0.480" LW barrel. I turned a 25 cal Mrod one down in my Dewalt lathe. To fit the barrel had to add some soda can shims. There is not much room between the barrel and ID of shroud. David is making me a more permanent one.
Accuracy seems to be good, so far. A starling fell out of a tree at 45yds with one shot, this last weekend. ;)
Now that the shroud is on, noticed noise that was a leak at the bolt/barrel o-ring. Ordered some 90D and metric oversize O-rings.
I have some stock mods to do yet:
- Make plug for gauge hole
- Fill stock cavity with foam
- Need about a 1/4" cheek risor
- Get and install 3D DiscoRus trigger guard
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DiscoRus 3D Printed Trigger Guard for Mrod trigger group:
I received a prototype 3D printed trigger guard from Joe, just before I left on vacation. Now that I'm back, had a few minutes to install it. It comes with a mounting screw, but you will need to tap the Mrod trigger assy for the right threads. I was already using a 3rd mounting screw to the airtube, so just got one a little longer.
(http://joefish.homestead.com/GEDC2088.JPG)
For the maximus stock, you need to make some very easy cuts so the guard will fit. Basically, you just make it 3/4" longer, going toward the muzzle. I used a hacksaw blade and made very quick work of it. There is already a flat in the stock which makes for easy alignment.
(http://joefish.homestead.com/GEDC2094.JPG)
(http://joefish.homestead.com/GEDC2090.JPG)
Looks very good, and much better than anything I could come up with. THX Joe.
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So John, how do you like this build you've done?
Joe
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Initial parts were ordered this AM. Ordered the syn stock for now, was only $18 and change. A boyd's will probably replace it, once the project gets near completion.
Looks like a cool project.
Maximus stock for $18? Will a Disco drop in this stock? Can I get the Part# ?
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Will the trigger guards be a production piece? Looks great!
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So John, how do you like this build you've done?
Not quite done, but not sure if they are ever 100% done. Light weight, well balanced, decent power and shot count, but it is the same length as a Mrod.
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Looks like a cool project.
Maximus stock for $18? Will a Disco drop in this stock? Can I get the Part# ?
While I don't have a disco, a number of members have reported the stocks are swappable. The stock lugs are different lengths, so need to get that as well.
Syn Stock: GBMP22-105
Stock Lug: 397-041
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Yes they are a drop in stock on a disco
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Will the trigger guards be a production piece? Looks great!
Yes, John received the first of our production run, and we will have them up on the website in a few days.
And just to confirm the Disco and maximus stocks are fully interchangeable just need the correct stock screw as John pointed out.
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Will the trigger guards be a production piece? Looks great!
Yes, John received the first of our production run, and we will have them up on the website in a few days.
And just to confirm the Disco and maximus stocks are fully interchangeable just need the correct stock screw as John pointed out.
Thanks Joe! Will be picking one up when available
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Looks like a cool project.
Maximus stock for $18? Will a Disco drop in this stock? Can I get the Part# ?
While I don't have a disco, a number of members have reported the stocks are swappable. The stock lugs are different lengths, so need to get that as well.
Syn Stock: GBMP22-105
Stock Lug: 397-041
Thanks for the Info.
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Well, the box was on the deck when I got home. :) I haven't been through all the parts yet, but had to know if the valve was going to work. Boy, they do put allot of oil in those tubes to prevent rust! And the answer is, it fits! :) I slid the valve in the tube and using two screws from Magnum Airpower, and the exhaust sits dead center in the TP hole. The screw heads were a very good fit, not like some of the prod/1720T ones I have. The bottom hole for the 3rd screw is offset, as I suspected. Not sure yet if I'll find anther position to make it a 3K psi gun. But, if not, good to 2400, will be good enough.
I also slid in the prod gauge block and my fears were unfounded . It is dead center in the hole butted up against the valve. :)
Anyway, going to get back to the inventory of parts. I'll post some pics latter this evening.
Aha, found another useful info!
This brings me closer to what I have in mind ;D