GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: WECSOG on February 04, 2016, 10:15:14 PM
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I picked up a nice rocker safety Blue Streak C today with Williams aperture sight, a hard case and partial tin of pellets. Good news: it shoots. Kinda. Bad news: it barely shoots. I can hear air hiss out the muzzle after I pump it. I put ND30 on the pivot points and piston, pumped it a few times, and have it standing in a corner. Contemplating how bad it's been. Maybe it will start to behave tomorrow. ;)
I gave $75 for it. S/N is 515xxx. I think I might be fudging a bit on the pre-'80 thing.
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad250/possumlivingdotcom/BlueStreak.jpg)
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You still got a deal on it. Even with a rebuild you're barely over a hundred in it. Nice find.
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Thanks! Yeah, I'm happy I got it.
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Mine sat for 30 years in an attic and I've been oiling and shooting daily. It had a small leak out of the barrel 2 weeks ago. Last 3 days and no leaks and velocity climbing also. The seals may still be salvageable. Enjoy the new rifle. What year is it?
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Thanks, Tim. Hopefully mine will come back with oiling and shooting, too.
I'm not sure of the year. S/N is 515,xxx. Crosman gives a 1985 beginning sn of 437,801 and I think that is the year Crosman bought Sheridan. But it has the rocker safety and says "Sheridan Products Racine, WIS" and the zip code, on the right side.
The guy I bought it from got it as a gift from his uncle, who had typed out a sheet of instructions for how to care for it and shoot it. The uncle, who seems to know what he is talking about, says it was from about 1973. But that doesn't match what Crosman says about the serial number.
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Man for $75 that was a great deal. I hope the ND 30wt oil work for you and it probably will considering the age of the rifle. I don't know the exact age of your gun but it's probably a Benjamin made Sheridan from the late 80's. 1985 serial numbers start at 437801 and I don't know where they ended? If they made 20,000 guns a year after that your gun would be an 1989.
Bryan
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Itsa POS!!! I'll give yer money/$75 back for it.
My favorite vintage of rocker safety! Late '80s. They are drilled for a Williams (and it HAS one!), have the slim (reminiscent of the '50s models) fore end with that svelte beauty and solid build quality of the last (best?) of the breed.
What the heck, I'll give ya $85!
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CONGRATS !!! $75? you stole that one. If that's your first I will bet another $75 that it won't be your last. I hope it seals up and comes back for you. If not, you still got a great deal even after the reseal.
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Nice find!!! Add the oil to her and let her mold over night!! You should be ok in a few days!!! Hopefully info just pm me and I'll take her off your hands!!! ;) lol
Great Find Brother Man
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;D ;D ;D hold not mold!!!! Lol this darn iPad has a mind of its own at times. Lol
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Nice find !!!!!
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75 BUCKS! :o :o :o.
that's grand theft sheridan ;D. GOOD SCORE ;D ;D ;D.
on a serious note, let it set, with the oil bath, over night. keep oiling it and shooting it. she may come around.
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I hope it comes back to life for you !
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Thanks guys! It's good to know I did the right thing, picking it up. :D
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Secret Sauce it, dry fire it 3-4 times, set it in the corner with 2-3 pumps in it over night. Good buy. 8)
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She's coming around! :) I've been following the advice you guys gave me; oiling, pumping and dry firing it. Dry firing pointed up, dry firing pointed down, occasionally firing a pellet. I can still hear the leak when I pump it and listen closely in the muzzle, but it's starting to shoot fine as long as I shoot within a minute or so of pumping. At 7 pumps it penetrates both sides of a steel soup can, and at 20 yards it swings the plates of my steel Crosman zombie target.
It has a longitudinal crack in the forearm, mostly towards the front. I guess it was there all along, but I didn't notice it until I heard it moving and it started opening more as it built pressure. I could probably inject epoxy into it, but I would really like to find a reasonably priced replacement.
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Check with either Mac-1 or Dennis Baker. I see Baker has a forearm for sale on eBay.
My bad, that was a forearm for a Benjamin. But I'd still check with either of those guys.
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Thanks, Dave. Those are the sellers I was thinking about contacting, or perhaps Boyd's to see about a new one of high-grade walnut.
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Post a pic and you might get suggestions for a home fix. Have CA'd small cracks for years as well as using very small brad/finishing nails on a few with only top of the small head of the nail showing.
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Looks nice. Mines old as dirt with all the finish worn off the stock, but still shoots pretty hard.
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Post a pic and you might get suggestions for a home fix. Have CA'd small cracks for years as well as using very small brad/finishing nails on a few with only top of the small head of the nail showing.
Thanks, Terry! Ok, first pic is with the crack closed. Subsequent pics are during and after pushing it open with my thumb. It gaps open a bit while pumping, once the valve gets a bit of pressure in it.
I'm thinking I can gap it open, put 24 hour clear epoxy in it, then clamp it shut until it fully sets. Might not even need to pin it; whattaya think?
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad250/possumlivingdotcom/IMG_20160206_161244967_zpsbmvozqua.jpg)(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad250/possumlivingdotcom/IMG_20160206_161237458_zpspyrn9pzv.jpg)(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad250/possumlivingdotcom/IMG_20160206_161222530_zpsujkoch7y.jpg)(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad250/possumlivingdotcom/IMG_20160206_161229426_zpszejpiqtp.jpg)
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Wood glue.
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I'd use wood glue. Put on a liberal amount then shoot it into the crack with some canned air. Clamp it and it should be good. I just got a '63 Dan with a leak. I lubed it with Mac-1 Secret Sauce, put 4 pumps in it and left it overnight. I did that twice and the leak was gone.
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The wood glue is much easier to clean up. After you clamp it, just wipe off whatever squeezes out with a damp/wet rag.
I've made cutting boards out of strips of hardwood held together by nothing but wood glue that have been knocked around, cut on, washed with bleach, and kept oiled with vegetable oil for 30 years and never a hint of separation. Just don't put it in the dishwasher.
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I'd use wood glue. Put on a liberal amount then shoot it into the crack with some canned air. Clamp it and it should be good. I just got a '63 Dan with a leak. I lubed it with Mac-1 Secret Sauce, put 4 pumps in it and left it overnight. I did that twice and the leak was gone.
I'm going to have to give that Secrut Sauce a try.
But mine holds air fine. Usually leave a pump or two in it. Forgot I left it loaded for a few weeks with a couple of pumps and accidentally put a pellet in the ceiling.
I always learned to keep a gun pointed up until you're ready to aim. Or sometimes down and away.
I'm holding out on the roid for now.
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I have some Gorilla Glue; both the regular and the wood specific.
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The tannish yellow stuff that's water soluble. When it starts to thicken in the bottle, just add a touch of water. I mostly jave used elmers, but I'm sure Gorilla brand is fine.
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Thanks, I'll try that. I'm gonna wait til I get it sealing first though, because I don't want to not be able to pump it for a coupla days.
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X2 on the CA, get a small bottle of the super thin stuff from a hobby shop. Soak a little into the crack and squeeze it gently in a vise and leave it over night. Use a towel to protect the wood from the vise jaws being careful not to get any glue on the towel. Wipe off any excess immediately. If you need to, sand the repaired crack down slightly and rub in some boiled linseed oil. If the color doesn't match that well, use some stain. I've repaired dozens of these. If done right you can't see the repair. Good luck.
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Gorilla glue will creep... forever. Epoxy and CA will not take any finish.
Ask any professional woodworker, the absolute best wood glue is hide glue. About the only commercial product that has hide glue in it is Titebond.
You also need to pin it with a 23ga pin nailer.
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The water soluble yellow carpenter's wood glue or Titebond and clamping, as 39M suggested, should work well on that crack/canyon! Be aware of where it will drip and mask stuff off.
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The water soluble yellow carpenter's wood glue or Titebond and clamping, as 39M suggested, should work well on that crack/canyon! Be aware of where it will drip and mask stuff off.
I've built a lot of furniture and Titebond is great stuff, I received a Benjamin 710 Pre WWll from Dennis Baker. The USPS banged her around so much that when I received her the butt stock was cracked >:( >:( >:( I opened the broken stock with a couple of little wooden wedges. Took a brush and added glue to both sides of the cracked stock. I then clamped her tight over night. Before putting her to dry I wiped the excess glue of the stock. When I removed the clamps it was very well hidden. If you plan to sand and refinish I would make sure to use water soluble carpenter's glue. It works very very well.
Best Of Luck
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After reading the comments here and doing some further research, I'm convinced. I'll get some Titebond. Thanks for the advice!
I've also been reading and watching videos about resealing the soldered-valve guns, and I'm sure I can do that, too. I might even make my own valve tool. I don't think I need to touch the pump nor the check valve, and just working on the exhaust seal will be enough. Maybe just cleaning it; if not I can probably make my own new lead seal. That's if it doesn't seal on its own pretty soon; which considering how much it has already improved is certainly not out of the question.
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Do a little research on putting that retaining nut back in. It's steel into brass threads and it will have spring tension fighting against you. If not careful you strip the threads in the valve. I offered to reseal a rescued 68 BS for another member. Evidently the old guy that had the gun before him stripped it out. Fortunately I had another BS here that I didn't have much invested in and got him up and running. I don't know if Timmy can or will solder another valve in it or if it would be too expensive to even fool with. If nothing else, I have a good parts gun.
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I've had good luck getting glue down into a crack using a drinking straw with the end cut at an angle. Push the angled end into the crack put glue into the other end and squeeze, pushing the glue deep into the crack. Titebond lll is what I would use.
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"...don't know if Timmy can or will solder another valve in it..."
He resoldered the valve back into the basket case first variant Benjamin 392 he Steroided for me.
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"...don't know if Timmy can or will solder another valve in it..."
He resoldered the valve back into the basket case first variant Benjamin 392 he Steroided for me.
Thanks, I posted in his vendor's gate. We'll see what he says.
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Have read about folks chasing/re-tapping it. The info is somewhere on the www.
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Fount it!
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1234893886/Old+Sheridan+Valve+guide+thread+size- (http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1234893886/Old+Sheridan+Valve+guide+thread+size-)
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More info.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=90789.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=90789.0)
More confusion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4duc8E_pJMg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4duc8E_pJMg)
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Get some quality wood glue, mix it with some fine sawdust and fill that crack. ( I own a handheld belt sander with a collection filter that fills up with a very fine wood powder ) and that's what I use.after that it's Just a matter of sanding and refinishing it.
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Here is and old Dan that had two large cracks the same as yours on the pump handle. I used wood glue, clamped, sanded and finished with London oil. You can barely notice and its stronger than before the cracks.
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9/32-32; huh. Guess I'll forget the idea of making my own extraction tool, for now at least. I think I might make the square wrench though, just to see if loosening and re-tightening the nut helps it to reseal.
PA has a seal kit that includes the tool, for $27.95. The seals seem subpar, though. But they also list a tool alone, https://www.pyramydair.com/product/crosman-service-station-soldered-valve-wrench-fits-select-benjamin-air?a=5336 (https://www.pyramydair.com/product/crosman-service-station-soldered-valve-wrench-fits-select-benjamin-air?a=5336) for $11.95. No picture and no reviews. If it's the right tool, that's probably the way to go. If I have to actually buy seals (which I doubt), I would rather buy the ones Timmy Mac sells.
Thanks for the offer of help, Bill. Hopefully I won't need it, but it's good to know that option is available.
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Here is and old Dan that had two large cracks the same as yours on the pump handle. I used wood glue, clamped, sanded and finished with London oil. You can barely notice and its stronger than before the cracks.
Nice job, Bruce! I'm gonna follow the consensus and use Titebond wood glue.
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Nice!!! Turned out very nice!
Congrats
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So I plinked at my backyard range for awhile today, then gave it 8 pumps and walked around in my woods plinking at rocks and stuff. 10-15 minutes between shots, and those shots still had power.
Pumped it 8 strokes and put it away. That was 1-1/2 to 2 hours ago; I just gave it one pump and it still felt fully pumped up! :)
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Woo Hooo!!! A bit of attention and oil rejuvenated another old Dan! It's like magic! Now you can begin learning to utilize the versatility of the vintage American made pumper air rifle! Might even put the others in the closet, like I have.
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9/32-32; huh. Guess I'll forget the idea of making my own extraction tool, for now at least. I think I might make the square wrench though, just to see if loosening and re-tightening the nut helps it to reseal.
PA has a seal kit that includes the tool, for $27.95. The seals seem subpar, though. But they also list a tool alone, https://www.pyramydair.com/product/crosman-service-station-soldered-valve-wrench-fits-select-benjamin-air?a=5336 (https://www.pyramydair.com/product/crosman-service-station-soldered-valve-wrench-fits-select-benjamin-air?a=5336) for $11.95. No picture and no reviews. If it's the right tool, that's probably the way to go. If I have to actually buy seals (which I doubt), I would rather buy the ones Timmy Mac sells.
That 9/32x32 is the thread size of the soldered in valve. The poppet stem/seat/valve top thread is smaller. Bought a set of valve tools from Bryan and Associates/Ron Sauls years ago and only recently re-found them.
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9/32-32; huh. Guess I'll forget the idea of making my own extraction tool, for now at least. I think I might make the square wrench though, just to see if loosening and re-tightening the nut helps it to reseal.
PA has a seal kit that includes the tool, for $27.95. The seals seem subpar, though. But they also list a tool alone, https://www.pyramydair.com/product/crosman-service-station-soldered-valve-wrench-fits-select-benjamin-air?a=5336 (https://www.pyramydair.com/product/crosman-service-station-soldered-valve-wrench-fits-select-benjamin-air?a=5336) for $11.95. No picture and no reviews. If it's the right tool, that's probably the way to go. If I have to actually buy seals (which I doubt), I would rather buy the ones Timmy Mac sells.
That 9/32x32 is the thread size of the soldered in valve. The poppet stem/seat/valve top thread is smaller. Bought a set of valve tools from Bryan and Associates/Ron Sauls years ago and only recently re-found them.
Do you know what size and pitch the stem is?
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Ooops! 9/32x32 ... IS... the valve guide puller thread.
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Here is and old Dan that had two large cracks the same as yours on the pump handle. I used wood glue, clamped, sanded and finished with London oil. You can barely notice and its stronger than before the cracks.
Nice job, Bruce! I'm gonna follow the consensus and use Titebond wood glue.
some fine sawdust might make the bond even stronger.
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Here is and old Dan that had two large cracks the same as yours on the pump handle. I used wood glue, clamped, sanded and finished with London oil. You can barely notice and its stronger than before the cracks.
Nice job, Bruce! I'm gonna follow the consensus and use Titebond wood glue.
some fine sawdust might make the bond even stronger.
Isn't that more for filling a gap? There's no gap here when I push it back together.
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BTW, nine hours later and it's still fully pressurized! :)
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BTW, nine hours later and it's still fully pressurized! :)
yeah mostly, but it does help create a tighter bond. So in your case just the glue probably would be fine, but I can't hurt to try for the tightest bond possible. ;)
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BTW, nine hours later and it's still fully pressurized! :)
Sounds like it has " recovered." Don't worry about taking it apart now, & just shoot it.
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BTW, nine hours later and it's still fully pressurized! :)
Sounds like it has " recovered." Don't worry about taking it apart now, & just shoot it.
Agreed. I did go ahead and order the tool, though. PA has 10% off through tomorrow, so I took advantage of that to order the tool and more pellets.
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Still holding pressure, and I've glued the forearm with Titebond III. I think this one is fixed. Although I probably will lightly sand and rub in some boiled linseed oil.