Author Topic: Got a Blue Streak today! (Read 8491 times))

WECSOG · « **Reply #20 on:** February 06, 2016, 06:43:21 PM »

Quote from: Yrok on February 06, 2016, 04:21:06 PM

Post a pic and you might get suggestions for a home fix. Have CA'd small cracks for years as well as using very small brad/finishing nails on a few with only top of the small head of the nail showing.

Thanks, Terry! Ok, first pic is with the crack closed. Subsequent pics are during and after pushing it open with my thumb. It gaps open a bit while pumping, once the valve gets a bit of pressure in it.
I'm thinking I can gap it open, put 24 hour clear epoxy in it, then clamp it shut until it fully sets. Might not even need to pin it; whattaya think?

39M · « **Reply #21 on:** February 06, 2016, 06:52:12 PM »

Wood glue.

brewbean · « **Reply #22 on:** February 06, 2016, 07:02:52 PM »

I'd use wood glue. Put on a liberal amount then shoot it into the crack with some canned air. Clamp it and it should be good. I just got a '63 Dan with a leak. I lubed it with Mac-1 Secret Sauce, put 4 pumps in it and left it overnight. I did that twice and the leak was gone.

39M · « **Reply #23 on:** February 06, 2016, 07:29:50 PM »

The wood glue is much easier to clean up. After you clamp it, just wipe off whatever squeezes out with a damp/wet rag.
I've made cutting boards out of strips of hardwood held together by nothing but wood glue that have been knocked around, cut on, washed with bleach, and kept oiled with vegetable oil for 30 years and never a hint of separation. Just don't put it in the dishwasher.

39M · « **Reply #24 on:** February 06, 2016, 07:33:32 PM »

Quote from: brewbean on February 06, 2016, 07:02:52 PM

I'd use wood glue. Put on a liberal amount then shoot it into the crack with some canned air. Clamp it and it should be good. I just got a '63 Dan with a leak. I lubed it with Mac-1 Secret Sauce, put 4 pumps in it and left it overnight. I did that twice and the leak was gone.

I'm going to have to give that Secrut Sauce a try.
But mine holds air fine. Usually leave a pump or two in it. Forgot I left it loaded for a few weeks with a couple of pumps and accidentally put a pellet in the ceiling.
I always learned to keep a gun pointed up until you're ready to aim. Or sometimes down and away.

I'm holding out on the roid for now.

WECSOG · « **Reply #25 on:** February 06, 2016, 07:38:36 PM »

I have some Gorilla Glue; both the regular and the wood specific.

39M · « **Reply #26 on:** February 06, 2016, 07:45:24 PM »

The tannish yellow stuff that's water soluble. When it starts to thicken in the bottle, just add a touch of water. I mostly jave used elmers, but I'm sure Gorilla brand is fine.

WECSOG · « **Reply #27 on:** February 06, 2016, 07:56:04 PM »

Thanks, I'll try that. I'm gonna wait til I get it sealing first though, because I don't want to not be able to pump it for a coupla days.

scottblair1950 · « **Reply #28 on:** February 06, 2016, 09:02:30 PM »

X2 on the CA, get a small bottle of the super thin stuff from a hobby shop. Soak a little into the crack and squeeze it gently in a vise and leave it over night. Use a towel to protect the wood from the vise jaws being careful not to get any glue on the towel. Wipe off any excess immediately. If you need to, sand the repaired crack down slightly and rub in some boiled linseed oil. If the color doesn't match that well, use some stain. I've repaired dozens of these. If done right you can't see the repair. Good luck.

454ho · « **Reply #29 on:** February 06, 2016, 09:39:22 PM »

Gorilla glue will creep... forever. Epoxy and CA will not take any finish.

Ask any professional woodworker, the absolute best wood glue is hide glue. About the only commercial product that has hide glue in it is Titebond.

You also need to pin it with a 23ga pin nailer.

anuthabubba · « **Reply #30 on:** February 06, 2016, 09:42:48 PM »

The water soluble yellow carpenter's wood glue or Titebond and clamping, as 39M suggested, should work well on that crack/canyon! Be aware of where it will drip and mask stuff off.

Extreme · « **Reply #31 on:** February 06, 2016, 11:49:31 PM »

Quote from: Yrok on February 06, 2016, 09:42:48 PM

The water soluble yellow carpenter's wood glue or Titebond and clamping, as 39M suggested, should work well on that crack/canyon! Be aware of where it will drip and mask stuff off.

I've built a lot of furniture and Titebond is great stuff, I received a Benjamin 710 Pre WWll from Dennis Baker. The USPS banged her around so much that when I received her the butt stock was cracked

I opened the broken stock with a couple of little wooden wedges. Took a brush and added glue to both sides of the cracked stock. I then clamped her tight over night. Before putting her to dry I wiped the excess glue of the stock. When I removed the clamps it was very well hidden. If you plan to sand and refinish I would make sure to use water soluble carpenter's glue. It works very very well.
Best Of Luck

WECSOG · « **Reply #32 on:** February 07, 2016, 01:11:36 AM »

After reading the comments here and doing some further research, I'm convinced. I'll get some Titebond. Thanks for the advice!

I've also been reading and watching videos about resealing the soldered-valve guns, and I'm sure I can do that, too. I might even make my own valve tool. I don't think I need to touch the pump nor the check valve, and just working on the exhaust seal will be enough. Maybe just cleaning it; if not I can probably make my own new lead seal. That's if it doesn't seal on its own pretty soon; which considering how much it has already improved is certainly not out of the question.

avator · « **Reply #33 on:** February 07, 2016, 01:28:03 AM »

Do a little research on putting that retaining nut back in. It's steel into brass threads and it will have spring tension fighting against you. If not careful you strip the threads in the valve. I offered to reseal a rescued 68 BS for another member. Evidently the old guy that had the gun before him stripped it out. Fortunately I had another BS here that I didn't have much invested in and got him up and running. I don't know if Timmy can or will solder another valve in it or if it would be too expensive to even fool with. If nothing else, I have a good parts gun.

daveb50 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 07, 2016, 02:25:28 AM »

I've had good luck getting glue down into a crack using a drinking straw with the end cut at an angle. Push the angled end into the crack put glue into the other end and squeeze, pushing the glue deep into the crack. Titebond lll is what I would use.

anuthabubba · « **Reply #35 on:** February 07, 2016, 02:33:47 AM »

"...don't know if Timmy can or will solder another valve in it..."

He resoldered the valve back into the basket case first variant Benjamin 392 he Steroided for me.

avator · « **Reply #36 on:** February 07, 2016, 02:35:54 AM »

Quote from: Yrok on February 07, 2016, 02:33:47 AM

"...don't know if Timmy can or will solder another valve in it..."

He resoldered the valve back into the basket case first variant Benjamin 392 he Steroided for me.

Thanks, I posted in his vendor's gate. We'll see what he says.

anuthabubba · « **Reply #37 on:** February 07, 2016, 02:43:02 AM »

Have read about folks chasing/re-tapping it. The info is somewhere on the www.

anuthabubba · « **Reply #38 on:** February 07, 2016, 02:45:36 AM »

Fount it!

http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1234893886/Old+Sheridan+Valve+guide+thread+size-

anuthabubba · « **Reply #39 on:** February 07, 2016, 03:06:05 AM »

More info.

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=90789.0

More confusion.

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Got a Blue Streak today!

Author Topic: Got a Blue Streak today! (Read 8491 times))