How often do you Zero

[emu rider]

Hello everyone, As a matter of curiosity, how often do you need to zero. I zero at 25yards then go hunting and seem to find that after a session I'm out of zero again. It's kind of annoying. Is this the norm or do I have a poor gun and or scope? I have a German made Walther 1250 .22 with a Walther 8-32x56. It's all screwed down tight. Wish it was set and forget.

[kaz]

Im new to air rifles and by no means an expert of the guns or scopes. I done some searches however and Walther's didnt pop up on any of the "best" scopes for air rifles. Brands that did and were listed as suited for air rifels and their model types i found here. http://www.airgundepot.com/airgunscopes.html
I have a leapers utg 4x32 and it was fairly cheap ($60) and ive had no issues with it loosing zero so far.

[stretch]

You should only have to zero your scope once.  Otherwise it means something is moving.  Either the mounts or something internal to the scope.  If its the mounts, try using blue locktite.  If its the scope hopefully its under warranty.

[Mod90]

Some scopes can be a little tricky & need to settle in after being zeroed. If they aren't the zero will change. But there are a few things you can try before you run out & shell out more $$ for a new scope.
Reset the turrets by turning the turret all the way to it's end till you no longer heard any clicks & there is no more adjustment. Be careful not to turn with too much force at the end, you don't want to damage any internal springs. Then turn it in th opposite direction, counting the clicks till you reach the other end of adjustment. Then divide the number of clicks you get by 2 & turn it back by that number of clicks. Do this for both elevation & windage, most scopes would have the same number of clicks for each one. Then tap the scope tube moderately lightly, just enough to vibrate the tube without denting it, with a dowel or your fingers, on both sides of the turrets, fore & aft. This will help settle the springs into their final relaxed position.

Then replace the scope on the gun & the gun on a stable rest & zero the scope. After you zero, tap the scope again while on the gun. Then take a few shots to check if there is movement. If there is, adjust again then tap again & shoot to see if there is movement. If it still moves, you need a new scope.

[MRT949]

Good info.

[condor22]

 A couple of things to try, remove the scope and use the iron sights, or Remove the scope and install your backup scope. If either result is good, the first scope is wandering and won't hold zero.

 Make sure all the stock screws are tight, being careful not to over tighten. I have never had to 'Tap on the Turrets' to make the scope settle in, and never saw anyone shooting at a match do the tapping thing either. If you have to tap on the scope for zero IMO it's a bad scope or you just need to Retap for re zero. 

[Mod90]

Make sure all the stock screws are tight, being careful not to over tighten.

The Walther 1250 is a PCP, stock screw tension would be more of an issue with a springer. As long as the action isn't rattling around in the stock this isn't an issue.

Remove the scope and install your backup scope. If either result is good, the first scope is wandering and won't hold zero.

If he doesn't have a back up scope this isn't an option

I have never had to 'Tap on the Turrets' to make the scope settle in, and never saw anyone shooting at a match do the tapping thing either. If you have to tap on the scope for zero IMO it's a bad scope or you just need to Retap for re zero. 

Just because you've never had to use this trick doesn't mean it doesn't work. Just means you've never had to. The methods I mentioned is the way to check if the tensioner springs in the scope needed to settle after adjustment, as well as to re-center  the reticle prior to any adjustment.
Competition shooters generally try to tune & tweak their optics all they have to prior to a match, needing to make only minor adjustments on the lanes, quite often making no adjustments at all during a match other than magnification or adjusting AO focus & they generally use higher end optics to avoid these types of issues.
Tapping the tube after the POA-POI has been shifted will have no effect other than settling the reticle into it's new incorrect position in relationship to POA-POI

[condor22]

Make sure all the stock screws are tight, being careful not to over tighten.

The Walther 1250 is a PCP, stock screw tension would be more of an issue with a springer. As long as the action isn't rattling around in the stock this isn't an issue.

Remove the scope and install your backup scope. If either result is good, the first scope is wandering and won't hold zero.

If he doesn't have a back up scope this isn't an option

I have never had to 'Tap on the Turrets' to make the scope settle in, and never saw anyone shooting at a match do the tapping thing either. If you have to tap on the scope for zero IMO it's a bad scope or you just need to Retap for re zero. 

Just because you've never had to use this trick doesn't mean it doesn't work. Just means you've never had to. The methods I mentioned is the way to check if the tensioner springs in the scope needed to settle after adjustment, as well as to re-center  the reticle prior to any adjustment.
Competition shooters generally try to tune & tweak their optics all they have to prior to a match, needing to make only minor adjustments on the lanes, quite often making no adjustments at all during a match other than magnification or adjusting AO focus & they generally use higher end optics to avoid these types of issues.
Tapping the tube after the POA-POI has been shifted will have no effect other than settling the reticle into it's new incorrect position in relationship to POA-POI

 If 'tapping' 'rattles'  the erector tube around in your scope it is obviously bad or very Cheap!
 If you don't have a backup scope, it's time get one, as it would make trouble shooting much quicker and easier. Doesn't matter the type of airgun, checking for loose screws is good maintenance, could be loose from the factory and because of course I do it? 

[cryptoad]

I have the standard stock scope that came with my Beeman Silver Kodiak X2 and it has held zero for a long time.  Instead of using blue Locktite thread locker on the mounting screws, I used nylon plumbers tape to wrap around the screw threads.  I did this for stock screws as well.  All I can say is it has worked for me.

Incidentally, the scope that came with the Beeman is a bit nicer than the one that came with my Vantage (both are 4X32).

[LDP]

If you have to tap your scope to "settle it in" you have a bad scope and or a very cheap scope. If tapping it settles it then it can move and if it moves it will not hold zero. I have some cheap scopes and some good scopes and I dont need to tap any of them and I have never needed to tap any good scope I have owned. Dont confuse good with expensive. A good scope can be adjusted and shot then re adjusted and shot again with no problem. Have you ever done a box test? If so did you have to tap it during the test to get it to settle? If so bad scope. Do you think a sniper adjust his scope to be on the target then taps it before taking the shot? In my opinion if a scope has to be tapped to get the adjustment to take then it is not going to perform as it should.

[Jtwizzle]

Some scopes can be a little tricky & need to settle in after being zeroed. If they aren't the zero will change. But there are a few things you can try before you run out & shell out more $$ for a new scope.
Reset the turrets by turning the turret all the way to it's end till you no longer heard any clicks & there is no more adjustment. Be careful not to turn with too much force at the end, you don't want to damage any internal springs. Then turn it in the opposite direction, counting the clicks till you reach the other end of adjustment. Then divide the number of clicks you get by 2 & turn it back by that number of clicks. Do this for both elevation & windage, most scopes would have the same number of clicks for each one. Then tap the scope tube moderately lightly, just enough to vibrate the tube without denting it, with a dowel or your fingers, on both sides of the turrets, fore & aft. This will help settle the springs into their final relaxed position.

Then replace the scope on the gun & the gun on a stable rest & zero the scope. After you zero, tap the scope again while on the gun. Then take a few shots to check if there is movement. If there is, adjust again then tap again & shoot to see if there is movement. If it still moves, you need a new scope.

I agree, and good info. I believe this is indeed mostly for the not-so-expensive models. Especially those with caps needing removed to make adjustment.(more so when making large adjustments)
Though if you are shooting a springer, it likely would not take to many shots for it to settle with the strong recoil.

[Mod90]

Usually that trick is used on cheaper/lower quality units, & it does work more often than not IME. Mid-spectrum to higher quality units built with quality components & QC controls usually don't have these kinds of issues where this could be needed.

I only made the recommendation that the OP try it to see if it helps his situation until he can find time & resources to get better optics. Hence the last sentence of my first post in this thread.

[LDP]

Ricky i know what you are saying and i am not arguing against that. What i was trying to say is if the scope does not move correctly by adjusting the turret alone then i would consider it a faulty scope and i would replace it or have it fixed if it is under warranty. I guess ultimately it would be up to the user if they wanted to keep the scope and just deal with that issue.

[Mod90]

No worries Leland, I understand that's one perspective.

[f4milytime]

Hmmmm... Maybe the scope is just bad, and needs to be replaced.

[condor22]

 I check zero often, change of season is typical.  If it gets knocked, bumped, or falls, then Zero. When I change weight or shape, of pellet, Zero again. When I find the guns favorite pellet, typically, I don't change around unless it's not available.

[Bullfrog]

I check zero often, change of season is typical.  If it gets knocked, bumped, or falls, then Zero. When I change weight or shape, of pellet, Zero again. When I find the guns favorite pellet, typically, I don't change around unless it's not available.

This. If I'm doing serious hunting of larger game that requires the most precise of shot placements I check my zero every time I go out. Who knows if a bump against a tree truck last time out was just enough to move the zero? 

More generally, not with airguns but with powderburners, I check my zero once a season and then again if there seems to be a problem. I haven't found that expensive scopes hold their zeros any better than cheap scopes. The difference in price usually goes towards low-light image brightness and clarity. I use high-dollar Leupolds on most of my deer rifles and they are some of the worst about changing zeros from season to season. Some of my cheaper scopes do the best at holding their zeros forever until I willfully change something.

When I find a scope and rifle pairing where the zero never moves from year to year, I'll never remove that scope. For example, I have a Rugar .204 that has a cheap and ancient Bushnell on it with sad image quality, but that zero hasn't shifted in 7-8 years so therefore I leave it be.

[blakecowen]

I have a BSA scope. I wouldn't recommend it by any means but it holds zero and it has been bumped a good bit. For what its worth (nooot much).

[Mod90]

One more thing to keep in mind fellas.
Sometimes POA_POI changes aren't caused by the scope either. In this thread the OP believes it is, & that's fine, but that's not always the case. A knock to the barrel or even a barrel that's not properly secured in the breech will cause all kinds of accuracy issues.

[emu rider]

Thanks for all the advice, the springs needing to settle makes sense, however if this is happening I will be cut. My mate bought the same gun and his loses zero also. it's realy upsetting. It's no longer under warranty and that's another story, only had it 6months and had to change the valve over now this, my brand new pump leaks and I sent that back today. Pay more get less, get shafted hard. This is how Australia is going. I have no confidence in anything I buy anymore. I thought German made would be top quality but it's not. My wife will be chasing me round with the thing if I tell her it needs a new scope cos its a lemon. I'll just go give it a little tap tap tappy, just tap it in.