The Black Ops Sniper trigger system is easily adjustable by YOU. Here is a quick and easy block of instruction and a look at the internals so that you'll know precisely what you are dealing with and what the two screws do.
Once you have done some trigger adjustments you will find that this rifle is MUCH better to shoot.
What you will need: A small precision flat blade screwdriver....that's it.
Ok, so there are TWO screws. A very small one in FRONT of the trigger, and a larger one BEHIND the trigger (there is an access hole in the trigger guard to get to the rear one). Have a look.
Ok, let's have a look at the trigger outside of the chassis and see what we're dealing with.
Here is a close up look at the FRONT adjustment screw. This is the one that does NOT have an access hole. The front adjustment screw, in my humble opinion, is the more important of the two. This is the screw that adjusts the length of trigger pull
. From the factory the trigger doesn't just have what people would call, "a little creep". It has a 15 mile road march before it releases the sear. It is the longest that I have ever encountered and those that shoot this rifle will probably agree.
The way this adjustment works is that the more the screw is tightened in, the LESS amount of travel that the trigger has to make to release the sear. By looking at this pic, it will help you understand. Tighten the forward screw and you reduce the amount of trigger pull...righty-tighty, clockwise to tighten. This is a tough one because, as seen in the above photos, there is no access hole to get to this adjustment screw and it is a SMALL one. Not only that, the more you tighten it, the deeper into the hole it goes, therefore making it harder to make contact with the screwdriver.Safety Note: If you manage to somehow tighten this forward screw TOO much, you may get it to the point where the sear will NOT engage the trigger when you cock the spring mechanism. You'll know it's too far when it just will NOT catch when you try to cock it. I don't think you'll get it too deep by adjusting the front screw while it is in the chassis (stock). If you take the rifle out of the chassis and really crank it down, you could end up going too far. My suggestion is to do this adjustment while you are out shooting your rifle. Tighten, cock, shoot. If it goes too deep and will NOT cock, back the screw out until it WILL cock and then back it out another half turn for safety purposes.
Ok, now that you have your length set, let's look at the screw to the rear. This is the WEIGHT of PULL adjustment screw
. How this works is there is a spring, as you pull the trigger it compresses the spring. The tighter this screw is, the HEAVIER the pull will be, because the spring is already partially compressed. You do want to be careful not to loosen this screw too much because the screw does need to put a little pressure on that spring to keep it where it is supposed to be. Have a look.
This is a pic of the rear screw from behind.
See how the screw meets the spring? Tight=heavier, Loose=lighter pull. Trick: Loosen it slowly until you notice NO pressure, then tighten it ONE full turn. Remember, righty-tighty.
I promise that when you adjust that forward screw to eliminate the 76 miles of travel and then lighten up the weight a little bit, this rifle will surprise you at how NICE the trigger feels and it puts a ton of fun factor back into this rifle!
I hope this little tutorial helps a lot of people and teaches a thing or two about how this mechanism works. Please feel free to link this tutorial to any thread concerning the Ignite Black Ops Sniper .177 air rifle.