Question about mounting gun in a spring compressor

[Kirk B]

Sweet. I actually have some 3/4 ply that's left over from a floor repair in my last house.
Yes, I actually moved with it - I throw nothing away.  
I'll use that for the end plates. I'll still use the pine for the middle piece to hold the action.

Thanks guys for helping me get this thing together.

[daved]

Don't forget pics of the finished product, I LOVE to steal other people's ideas :-)!  Later.

Dave

[oldpink]

Don't trust that Daved guy.
He's stingy and unwilling to help as they come.

[Kirk B]

I just finished up my compressor and wanted to thank you guys again for the ideas and advice. I'll post up a pic tomorrow because it's late now and I need to warm up a little. It only took about 2 hrs but it's in the low 20's outside so I'm a little chilly. I can't wait to get heat out in my garage. My wife thinks I've lost my mind.  

Edit for photo:

Ok, here we go. I still have to drill the holes in the v plate to secure the retaining plate but I wanted to wait until I could lay the gun in there to be sure everything fits. I may epoxy the end plates to the clamp faces to help keep the plates from deflecting under load. I guess I should finish the wood with something to seal and protect it as well.

[shadow]

Look's like a great start and another safety item to have around when doing spring compression is safety glasses. I wear them when doing my work around the compressor. You want to keep the peeper's safe for shooting at your target's or critters when your done giving your shooter some TLC. Ed

[Kirk B]

Good point, thanks Ed. I'm terrible about wearing safety glasses unless my young son is working with me. I try to set a good example for him but when no one's around, you know how it is...  

[GrizzlyMan]

This is Da Thread!

How can I add a subscribe to this specific thread?

Kudos for the pics and tips, I am just terrified to open that springer and *(&^ break loose...

[daved]

Great job, Kirk, and you can be certain I'll be stealing some of your ideas :-)!  The screws for the retainer plate are a nice idea, but I suspect they'll only be use once or twice :-).  I do like the center block, I've never had a rifle slip, but I've always been extra careful, just because I know that Murphy lives in my back pocket and it was a real possibility with my very minimalist design.  On your next iteration, you might consider a hinge and draw bolt (think tool box) latch, that way it's all one piece that stays together, and is easy in and out.

One other suggestion that you may have already planned for, lots of guns need to have the spring retaining block compressed into the comp tube, impossible with a flat bearing surface.  I solved that by simply drilling a hole and slipping a bolt in it for the block to bear on.  It's a little trickier with the Diana rifles, since the safety sticks out the back, but that fits in the hole when the bolt is removed, problem solved unless you're working on a 54.

My only other suggestion would be to try and find a C-clamp with the same thread, and swap out the screws.  I had an old 6" clamp kicking around that was the right size, more than doubled my screw length.  No more worries about spring length or preload :-).

Again, great job, now go take something apart :-).  Later.

Dave 

[oldpink]

Grizzly, just click the "Notify" button at either the top or bottom of the thread.

-Scott

[ezman604]

By default, if you post in a thread, you SHOULD automatically receive an email notice any time there is a post or moderation of the thread. If not, go to your Profile tab, click on Notifications & email and check the 4 boxes. I also set mine in the drop-down box to Replies & Moderation. That way you automatically receive notice when a thread is updated that you have posted to.
Happy Shooting!!!!
Dave
 

[Kirk B]

One other suggestion that you may have already planned for, lots of guns need to have the spring retaining block compressed into the comp tube, impossible with a flat bearing surface.  I solved that by simply drilling a hole and slipping a bolt in it for the block to bear on.  It's a little trickier with the Diana rifles, since the safety sticks out the back, but that fits in the hole when the bolt is removed, problem solved unless you're working on a 54.

Yeah, I figured there would be a few accessories or mods required along the way but it should be easy to do with that flat plate to attach stuff to.

My only other suggestion would be to try and find a C-clamp with the same thread, and swap out the screws.  I had an old 6" clamp kicking around that was the right size, more than doubled my screw length.  No more worries about spring length or preload.

Good idea. Have you ever run into one that needed more preload than the original bar clamp thread length could accommodate?

[GrizzlyMan]

Shadow, What are those cylindral wood pieces?

[GrizzlyMan]

Daved, what is the name of that tool you use?

I went to Harbor Freight and was difficult for them to understand...

[shadow]

The Cylindrical pieces are wood dowels cut with different notch's in them to fit into different actions to remove trigger assemblies. I tune many different airguns and some tool's are made to fit particular airguns. Ed

[Kirk B]

Daved, what is the name of that tool you use?

I went to Harbor Freight and was difficult for them to understand...

Do you mean the pipe clamp? If so this is the one I used:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-3-4-quarter-inch-heavy-duty-cast-iron-pipe-clamp-31255.html

[daved]

Good idea. Have you ever run into one that needed more preload than the original bar clamp thread length could accommodate?

Oh, yeah.  Diana 350 and Beeman R9 both had more preload than I had screw length.  Even with the short screw it took off enough pressure that I was able to deal with the last little bit by hand.  Still, it's nice to have the longer screw, especially on reassembly.

GrizzlyMan, like Spook said, it's called a pipe clamp, they're available at most any hardware or Big Box store.  They're really not sold as a complete unit, the clamp is a two piece set, and then you buy a piece of black iron (gas) pipe however long you want or need.  You can get them to fit either 1/2" or 3/4" pipe, I've always used the 3/4" ones.  Pony used to be about the only brand you could get, but now there are other companies offering them, Home Depot sells the Irwin brand.  If you go this route, make use you get black iron pipe, not galvanized.  The galvanized pipe will let the clamp slip.  Want to guess how I know :-)?  Later.

Dave

[Kirk B]

Oh, yeah.  Diana 350 and Beeman R9 both had more preload than I had screw length.

Thanks Dave. I was just wondering though, how did you get the screw out of the c clamp? I never really looked, does the clamping pad have a snap ring or something holding it to the ball on the end of the screw?

[daved]

Main strength and awkwardness :-)!  I just unscrewed it until the clamp pad popped off, then recut the ball end in my lathe to fit the bar clamp pad.  If you don't have a lathe, a grinder and file would also work.  On my bar clamp, the screw is held in place with a rivet that can be popped out with a screwdriver.  If needed, I'd have tapped for a set screw,but the rivet still works fine.  Later.

Dave 

[Kirk B]

Cool, thx again.

[Nightstalker]

Here's mine and I live by the same rule,secure at the pivot.Thanks