yes there is an occasional grinding noise when cocking. But judging by the amount of metal powder along the edges of the cocking slot and the rough edge on one side of it, this may be the source of the grinding. I decided to open the gun up after I noticed a dramatic and sudden loss in accuracy. I was shooting fine all day and then all of a sudden I couldn't hit anything. I may or may not have heard a click while I was cocking at one point. I thought I heard it but the gun still seemed to operate normally so I dismissed it as me probably just hearing things. When I look into the cocking slot I can see at least 4 coils of the spring that are touching. I don't know if this is normal on a RWS 34 spring or not.
The gun only about 2 weeks old. I have put maybe 1300-1400 shots through it. This is the original spring, no modifications of any kind have been made on the gun.How is Umarex's customer service? I am thinking about sending them the photo to get their opinion on it.
Bahhh this is frustrating. Anybody out there with a plain ole stock 34 that can take a look at the spring and see if it looks like mine?I think I am going to take Bullit's suggestion and give them a call so I can get an answer right away instead of waiting around for an email. I can send them a picture if it would help with diagnosis. I hope I don't have to send it back because I don't want to be without my gun for several weeks (and pay shipping on top of that) but if it is what needs to be done then so be it. I will also have them lube the internals if I do send it back because it came pretty dry it seems.
I have a Diana 34, and your spring looks normal (from what I can see.) The spring is under "some" tension even when the rifle is not cocked. When you break a spring, it is usually pretty obvious (you can see it, and it is shinny and clearly cracked) but not always. I would NOT advise you to put oil or the RWS spring oil on the spring. That stuff is thin, and runs. If it runs down the length of your compression chamber, you will get a "Boom" which is known as a detonation. That will break your spring, and rip your piston seal. Then you will have problems not covered by warranty. Don't oil it from the outside. It needs a "paste" lube known as Moly. I suspect that you are hearing an awful noise when you cock the rifle, and it probably doesn't feel real smooth when you cock it? That's because they sell them to us without any lube. There's a hard rubber seal attached to the end of the piston. When you cock the rifle, that hard rubber seal is dragging against the inside of the gun (the compression tube). Again, you need a moly paste applied. I would not send the rifle to Umarex! Ever! If you send the rifle to Umarex, and they determine nothing is wrong with it, they will bill you, and hold your rifle hostage until you pay. You will pay shipping both-ways regardless if it is a waranty issue or not. That's how it is, and I'm writing from experience. I call it the "Umarex experience". Please don't believe you have a warranty, or that Umarex cares. Please don't misunderstand me: the Diana Rifle is good; Umarex is not. Here's your best play: take the rifle's action out of the stock, and look at the two cross pins near the trigger. Those two pins are pushed out, and then the trigger group comes out the rear, followed by a spring guide and your main spring. Then your piston with the piston seal attached at the front. Don't push them out without a spring compressor! That is the only way to really inspect the spring. I would suggest you build a simple spring compressor, take it apart, and order a lube kit from JM ($25.00 or so). Clean out the compression tube really good, put a lite coat of molly on the piston, and a bit in the compression tube, the black tar grease on the spring, and reassemble. If you don't like the results, take it apart, and add or remove a bit of lube and try again. The JM Kit provides enough lube to do 10 guns. If you are near Palm springs, I'll let you borrow (have) some. No one can tell you exactly how much Moly Lube to apply because it might be hotter or colder where you live, higher or lower elevation, dusty or not, etc. Plus, no two rifles are the same. I've used the factory spring with a lube tune only, using JM's lubes. It's okay. I've used the Vortek kit, and it was great while it lasted, but the spring lost power really fast. (I had other issues with Vortek as well). I don't want to change springs every few thousand pellets, and I can no-longer recommend the Vortek kits. I ended up reinstalling the factory spring, and I may go with a JM Kit. Look, making a spring compressor isn't difficult to do, and taking the 34 apart isn't difficult. After you do it a couple of times, you'll be very confident. If you don't learn to do it yourself, you probably will never be happy with the 34, or any spring gun for that matter. You can take the rifle apart, and clean/re lube as often as you want. If you shoot it alot, these guns are not a "plug and play" type device. You are going to have change springs from time to time, perhaps piston seals, etc. Using the RWS Spring oil and "chamber lube" isn't a good idea, and it's just a product that RWS sells. By the way, never put that RWS chamber lube in the air-chamber, I don't care what the Umarex videos say. Here's a couple of shots of a spring compressor I built. If you look at the white block of wood, there's a hole there where the rifle's safety slips in. This keeps the wood from busting the safety. That block of wood is pushed into the trigger slowly as you turn the clamp, and that takes a little spring tension off the pins, you push out the pins, and then slowly loosen the clamp. Pretty simple. Good luck. P.S. Read this post. It explains and has lots of step-by-step photos: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=14743.0
Quote from: Ishootforblood on June 18, 2014, 04:49:14 AMI have a Diana 34, and your spring looks normal (from what I can see.) The spring is under "some" tension even when the rifle is not cocked. When you break a spring, it is usually pretty obvious (you can see it, and it is shinny and clearly cracked) but not always. I would NOT advise you to put oil or the RWS spring oil on the spring. That stuff is thin, and runs. If it runs down the length of your compression chamber, you will get a "Boom" which is known as a detonation. That will break your spring, and rip your piston seal. Then you will have out. problems not covered by warranty. Don't oil it from the outside. It needs a "paste" lube known as Moly. I suspect that you are hearing an awful noise when you cock the rifle, and it probably doesn't feel real smooth when you cock it? That's because they sell them to us without any lube. There's a hard rubber seal attached to the end of the piston. When you cock the rifle, that hard rubber seal is dragging against the inside of the gun (the compression tube). Again, you need a moly paste applied. I would not send the rifle to Umarex! Ever! If you send the rifle to Umarex, and they determine nothing is wrong with it, they will bill you, and hold your rifle hostage until you pay. You will pay shipping both-ways regardless if it is a warranty issue or not. That's how it is, and I'm writing from experience. I call it the "Umarex experience". Please don't believe you have a warranty, or that Umarex cares. Please don't misunderstand me: the Diana Rifle is good; Umarex is not. Here's your best play: take the rifle's action out of the stock, and look at the two cross pins near the trigger. Those two pins are pushed out, and then the trigger group comes out the rear, followed by a spring guide and your main spring. Then your piston with the piston seal attached at the front. Don't push them out without a spring compressor! That is the only way to really inspect the spring. I would suggest you build a simple spring compressor, take it apart, and order a lube kit from JM ($25.00 or so). Clean out the compression tube really good, put a lite coat of molly on the piston, and a bit in the compression tube, the black tar grease on the spring, and reassemble. If you don't like the results, take it apart, and add or remove a bit of lube and try again. The JM Kit provides enough lube to do 10 guns. If you are near Palm springs, I'll let you borrow (have) some. No one can tell you exactly how much Moly Lube to apply because it might be hotter or colder where you live, higher or lower elevation, dusty or not, etc. Plus, no two rifles are the same. I've used the factory spring with a lube tune only, using JM's lubes. It's okay. I've used the Vortek kit, and it was great while it lasted, but the spring lost power really fast. (I had other issues with Vortek as well). I don't want to change springs every few thousand pellets, and I can no-longer recommend the Vortek kits. I ended up reinstalling the factory spring, and I may go with a JM Kit. Look, making a spring compressor isn't difficult to do, and taking the 34 apart isn't difficult. After you do it a couple of times, you'll be very confident. If you don't learn to do it yourself, you probably will never be happy with the 34, or any spring gun for that matter. You can take the rifle apart, and clean/re lube as often as you want. If you shoot it alot, these guns are not a "plug and play" type device. You are going to have change springs from time to time, perhaps piston seals, etc. Using the RWS Spring oil and "chamber lube" isn't a good idea, and it's just a product that RWS sells. By the way, never put that RWS chamber lube in the chamber, I don't care what the Umarex videos say. Here's a couple of shots of a spring compressor I built. If you look at the white block of wood, there's a hole there where the rifle's safety slips in. This keeps the wood from busting the safety. That block of wood is pushed into the trigger slowly as you turn the clamp, and that takes a little spring tension off the pins, you push out the pins, and then slowly loosen the clamp. Pretty simple. Good luck. P.S. Read this post. It explains and has lots of step-by-step photos: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=14743.0 Thanks for the response, sorry about your terrible experience with Umarex. That doesn't inspire a lot of hope in me. I kind of wish I read more into the problems people have with the D34 before I decided to buy one. I only really read good things about it until I started experiencing problems myself. However, I read your post in the other thread (thanks for the link by the way, that thread and one of the threads linked in it are super helpful, I have them bookmarked now) and you seemed to be in the same position as me, new to airguns, got a supposedly good gun, weren't happy with it, and took it upon yourself to fix it. That inspires a little confidence in me that I can do it. The more I read about spring compressors and disassembly of the gun the more it seems like it isn't all that easy to screw it up. As long as you don't mess with the trigger assembly it seems like just sliding some pieces out of a tube, cleaning and lubing them, then sliding them back in. I will look into building a spring compressor soon. I like the design of the one you made, the two side-by-side 2x4's look very stable.
I have a Diana 34, and your spring looks normal (from what I can see.) The spring is under "some" tension even when the rifle is not cocked. When you break a spring, it is usually pretty obvious (you can see it, and it is shinny and clearly cracked) but not always. I would NOT advise you to put oil or the RWS spring oil on the spring. That stuff is thin, and runs. If it runs down the length of your compression chamber, you will get a "Boom" which is known as a detonation. That will break your spring, and rip your piston seal. Then you will have out. problems not covered by warranty. Don't oil it from the outside. It needs a "paste" lube known as Moly. I suspect that you are hearing an awful noise when you cock the rifle, and it probably doesn't feel real smooth when you cock it? That's because they sell them to us without any lube. There's a hard rubber seal attached to the end of the piston. When you cock the rifle, that hard rubber seal is dragging against the inside of the gun (the compression tube). Again, you need a moly paste applied. I would not send the rifle to Umarex! Ever! If you send the rifle to Umarex, and they determine nothing is wrong with it, they will bill you, and hold your rifle hostage until you pay. You will pay shipping both-ways regardless if it is a warranty issue or not. That's how it is, and I'm writing from experience. I call it the "Umarex experience". Please don't believe you have a warranty, or that Umarex cares. Please don't misunderstand me: the Diana Rifle is good; Umarex is not. Here's your best play: take the rifle's action out of the stock, and look at the two cross pins near the trigger. Those two pins are pushed out, and then the trigger group comes out the rear, followed by a spring guide and your main spring. Then your piston with the piston seal attached at the front. Don't push them out without a spring compressor! That is the only way to really inspect the spring. I would suggest you build a simple spring compressor, take it apart, and order a lube kit from JM ($25.00 or so). Clean out the compression tube really good, put a lite coat of molly on the piston, and a bit in the compression tube, the black tar grease on the spring, and reassemble. If you don't like the results, take it apart, and add or remove a bit of lube and try again. The JM Kit provides enough lube to do 10 guns. If you are near Palm springs, I'll let you borrow (have) some. No one can tell you exactly how much Moly Lube to apply because it might be hotter or colder where you live, higher or lower elevation, dusty or not, etc. Plus, no two rifles are the same. I've used the factory spring with a lube tune only, using JM's lubes. It's okay. I've used the Vortek kit, and it was great while it lasted, but the spring lost power really fast. (I had other issues with Vortek as well). I don't want to change springs every few thousand pellets, and I can no-longer recommend the Vortek kits. I ended up reinstalling the factory spring, and I may go with a JM Kit. Look, making a spring compressor isn't difficult to do, and taking the 34 apart isn't difficult. After you do it a couple of times, you'll be very confident. If you don't learn to do it yourself, you probably will never be happy with the 34, or any spring gun for that matter. You can take the rifle apart, and clean/re lube as often as you want. If you shoot it alot, these guns are not a "plug and play" type device. You are going to have change springs from time to time, perhaps piston seals, etc. Using the RWS Spring oil and "chamber lube" isn't a good idea, and it's just a product that RWS sells. By the way, never put that RWS chamber lube in the chamber, I don't care what the Umarex videos say. Here's a couple of shots of a spring compressor I built. If you look at the white block of wood, there's a hole there where the rifle's safety slips in. This keeps the wood from busting the safety. That block of wood is pushed into the trigger slowly as you turn the clamp, and that takes a little spring tension off the pins, you push out the pins, and then slowly loosen the clamp. Pretty simple. Good luck. P.S. Read this post. It explains and has lots of step-by-step photos: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=14743.0
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