Which non expanding epoxy for bonding carbon fiber sleeves to barrel

[grumpy]

I was looking at this but it does not say anything about non expanding http://www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-9340/=s6vq0k

Thanks for  your help.

David

[Motorhead]

Just use thin viscosity "Finish / Laminating" grade epoxy.
Using a slow cure catalyst gives you all sorts of fiddle time before it starts hardening. 

Many Hobby Shops sell this grade of epoxy.

[Bullit]

Dave, I'd almost bet you have an adhesives distributer in your area code, who could help.

[grumpy]

Thanks for the tip. Any name brand you could suggest ? Folks who work at the local hobby shops aint the brightest in the book and id like to let my fingers do the shopping first.

David

[grumpy]

Or better yet anything at lowes or homedepot, those are both very close by where as hobby shops not so much. Thanks

[Bullit]

Most of the industrial suppliers are very well versed with the 3M and Devcon products.   They'll sell to you at a good price, but might also be able to give you a common brand of their product that you might be able to buy at the box stores.
Edit:  Is the fitment tight, with little gap?  Or do you have a larger gap to fill?

[lloyd-ss]

A boat shop that stocks fiberglass repair products is a good bet.  A thin (low viscosity) slow cure high strength epoxy.  Most things you can find in the box stores are way too thick.
Wrap the tube with some tape to form a shoulder to push the sleeve up against and hang it vertically from a string for curing so that everything stays centered.
Lloyd

[Bullit]

Lloyd.  That was my question about the gap exactly
I mount steel/aluminum/or composite fishing reel seats onto carbon rodblanks for heavy fishing rods.   I build up a series of dams using 1/2" masking tape...to center everything up, and hold segments of cement in place.  Don't need a bunch of epoxy to do the trick.   I personally use Devcon and it is 24hr.

[rsterne]

I would ask Sean Pero.... I believe he uses Acraglas, which is a gunsmithing epoxy....

Bob

[Motorhead]

here ya go ... been using this product for over 25 years !!
https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=A86.JyQwwIhT0ioAOm8PxQt.;_ylu=X3oDMTBsOXB2YTRjBHNlYwNzYwRjb2xvA2dxMQR2dGlkAw--?_adv_prop=image&fr=yhs-att-att_001&va=20+minute+finish+cure+epoxy&hspart=att&hsimp=yhs-att_001

It is sold as a 20 min ... but in reality unless 85* + takes far longer to set.
Using in cooler temps take a good 12+ hours to get tacky and 24 to semi harden.
* want it thinner yet ? ... a small splash of acetone thins it further to a thick water viscosity 

[rsterne]

Thinning with Acetone, in an application like sleeving a barrel, while allowing the epoxy to move into the small space easier, is NOT a good idea, IMO.... Epoxy cures by a chemical reaction, not evaporation, and in such an application the Acetone can become trapped in the matrix.... This can do two things, 1. increase the curing time or even inhibit the curing process, and 2. reduce the strength of the cured product.... It is possible to use limited thinning when laying up a composite laminate where you have a thin product with a large surface area so that the Acetone can evaporate before/during the curing process.... but I would not do it in an internal gluing operation.... where the Acetone has to travel the length of a small tolerance gap to reach the end to evaporate.... 

BTW, I spent 30+ years building R/C Racing Yachts using Glass/Kevlar/Carbon composites with Polyester, Vinylester, and Epoxy resins....

Bob

[QVTom]

The best way to thin epoxy is to warm it up.  Pick an appropriate slow cure and gently warm to the desired consistency, do not overheat.  Don't do this with a fast epoxy, it will never make it out of the pot..

Tom

[PakProtector]

There is a slo/thin one called Git-Rot...soaks into wood, then hardens. Have no idea about its strength v. the other stuff. Should perhaps look.
cheers,
Douglas

[Bullit]

Yeah, other than heat and humidity, acetone not gonna change the character...I got off that train a while ago...after fighting pitting and airholes. K.I.S.S it and just adhere (pun), to the time required, and it'll work out.

[Motorhead]

You guys are right !! ... My bad for mentioning the Acetone trick not thinking about the confined space and evap issue 
Tho using the epoxy brand shared ... have thinned it with small amounts of acetone MANY many times with no structural changes what so ever.

I too have built Race Boats ... tho the 80 mph R.C. model kind 

Good luck which ever route you take !

[rsterne]

acetone not gonna change the character

I disagree, I have had Epoxy refuse to cure for over a month when thinned with Acetone and left in a sealed pot.... When it did cure, you could crumble it with your fingers.... YMMV of course, depending on the type of Epoxy and concentration of Acetone, but that was my experience.... once!

Bob

[Bullit]

Don't know your brand, condition, concentration, etc. etx.  Doesn't matter.  Probably did crumble, as it didn't get a good chance to bind to itself with the acetone keeping separating it in a closed condition.   
I think we all agree that it's best not to use acetone, and that's what matters.

[Tommy]

This probably sounds crazy but I used Gorilla Glue to put on my homemade barrel shroud . The shroud is made from a piece of steel plumbers pipe that i ground down with my dremel. I dont think i will ever get it off.
Tommy

[grumpy]

This is not a shroud but a barrel wrap. These aint cheap and would be an expensive lesson if the wrong products use.

[Tommy]

That is why it sounded crazy.
Tommy