Beeman Silver Kodiak 2X Rebuild

[BobbyHumphrey]

My Dad had one [the white one in the pic] and I saw him shoot cans at 90 yards. He would shoot the diamond on cards at 50. He would be mad if he missed. I remember him cussing and saying he was tired of breakbarrels. Now that I'm into them I think that would be awesome.

[Privateer]

My thinking is "What if Danial Boone got a bad gun?"
Say he did but was many miles from his nearest WalMart?
Oops. No WalMart back then and that means he didn't have an SUV to take it back.
It's to easy now days to exchange &^^& so no reason to make it right the first time if the final costs don't work.
In the long run? I don't see anything getting better due to 'Bean Counters'.
The massive amounts of re-calls on Cars should show you that trend!
Fix it when We get Caught!

[Paul68]

Sam, the Beeman guns are actually pretty good buys. Broken springs aren't that common. The big issues with them is the same as the other Chinese guns, and even some Turkish and higher end rifles, those being a lot of twang and piston seals damaged during factory assembly. When you get a good one, the twanginess smooths out a bit (but never really disappears) and the seal will last for well past 3k shots. These Beemans though really shine when given some attention such as a smoothing, proper lube, and new seals.

[SamTheMan]

Sam,
 If your getting good accuracy at 100 yards? Sounds like a keeper to me!
Makes me want to get this one back together even more.
 

If it can take a bottle at 70+ yards when done? I'll be happy.
I get 2" groups at that distance with the .25 Hatsan. (On a good shootin' day)
I'm pretty sure a better scope will shrink that. (old eyes don't work as well as they use to)

Hi Privateer - - yes I was shooting balloons 4" & 5" across at 100 yards with the 177 barrel and the 4x Beeman scope that came with the rifle. And its more challenging when the wind scoots them along the ground. Wind to dope and moving target.  I haven't really tried to shoot tiny groups with it, as I'm more of a hunter/field shooter. If I could shoot the end of a pop can consistently at 100 yards I'd be very pleased. I have a Hawke 2-7x 32mm AO mil-dot scope on the air rifle now and a Hawke 3-9x 40mm AO mil-dot scope on the way (am very impressed with these - great bargains in optics. Didn't know about Hawke till I came to the air gun forums).

I imagine you'll have a heckuva air rifle when youre done working on it.   

[SamTheMan]

Paul68 - thanks for your comments. That's reassuring. I sure have been impressed with my Silver Kodiak. 

BobbyHumphrey - great story about your Dad shooting diamonds on playing cards at 50. Sounds like that man can shoot !   

Best regards guys - - - -

[BobbyHumphrey]

Thanks Sam. He sure could. And the white gun on my pic started out as  a beeman rs2 from wall mart. The one on top is a Quest. The black one is a benji ss.

[hogrider04]

Hey Jeff, did you give up on this project?? After 3 weeks and 3 phone calls I finally got my parts. Now I'm waiting on the next chapter of your venture. Maybe I'll just blunder on on my own. 

[Privateer]

Haven't given up. I'm out in Stockton, California for a few weeks on a demolition job.
 
All the parts are deburred and polished where needed, the lubes should be at the house by now also.

[Privateer]

Just got home from the California job and my Super-Lube and Blue lock-tite is here.
 
I plan to put the piston assembly back together and check spaceing on the spring then shim for as tight a compression as I can safely get.
I'll also check the piston seals real close as both have some forming flash that needs trimmed.

[TutorN1]

Just bought one of these, & was wanting to ask some questions.

How to take the brake off, will it need heat?

Also, when you hone the cylinder what do you use? I have a cylinder hone with fine stones, but didn't want to do it wrong.

[Privateer]

Just bought one of these, & was wanting to ask some questions.

How to take the brake off, will it need heat?

Also, when you hone the cylinder what do you use? I have a cylinder hone with fine stones, but didn't want to do it wrong.

Don't know about the brake question.
For this Gun? The cylinder was in real good shape so I made a thing to use 400 grit wet/dry to rough it up.
I used some old pipe insulation stuff on a wooden dowel then wrapped the 400 around it.
A 5 gallon bucket and a squirt bottle to add water and went to work.

[TutorN1]

Ok, great! That's easy enough, I've got a whip stip made at work already!
How's your rebuild going, great thread and answered a lot of questions from the start!

[Privateer]

Ok, great! That's easy enough, I've got a whip stip made at work already!
How's your rebuild going, great thread and answered a lot of questions from the start!

The rebuild is going great with no surprises or regrets.
The only problem now is business is going nuts so I have little time at home!
Did nearly a month in California on a job, home for about a day and a half and now in Cincinnati for a few more days!
 

But when the money calls? One has to go.

[Privateer]

Back home and ready to get back into this rebuild.
I'm finishing up some smoothing here and there and putting it back together.

[AK73]

Back home and ready to get back into this rebuild.
I'm finishing up some smoothing here and there and putting it back together.

I'm anxious to see how it turned out!

[Privateer]

I'm stoked to see what this does compared to the Talon!

[Privateer]

Inspected the 2 new seals and one had a rough spot so picked the other one. I don't think it would have made a difference to be honest. It wasn't on the lip much.
I say much because I did touch the seal with 400 very carefully to remove a casting or mold line from the very edge of the seal.
Normal break-in and it would have worn off I'm sure but attention to detail and all that.
 
Super-lubed the whole tube, lubed other stuff as needed and put it all back in the chamber.
The new Spring was polished at both ends of course.

The screw that holds the piston seal would not come loose with the old seal. I used Vise-grips with a small piece of leather to break it loose.
I put some Blue lock-tite on it with the new seal. Not sure it's needed as it is a tight fitting screw but better safe then sorry!

[Benwaller]

Just bought one of these, & was wanting to ask some questions.

How to take the brake off, will it need heat?

Also, when you hone the cylinder what do you use? I have a cylinder hone with fine stones, but didn't want to do it wrong.

The brake will need some heat and you will have to drive it off with a piece of hardwood placed on the rear lip of the brake and struck with a hammer.  The barrel has longitudinal raised ridges under that brake, so you will either have to work them down (if you intend to put some other kind of brake there) or cut off the barrel if you want to keep the muzzle naked.  Or whatever.  You will lose about 1/8" or so of the rear of the brake as the beating you will have to give it will be sufficient to gall the soft aluminum from which that brake is made.  But that is no big deal, really, just file the damaged edge off - it will no longer be black but that's why they sell epoxy spray paint.

You've been asking for a while, just thought I'd give you the benefit of my own experience working with this gun, which by the way was depressing.

Keep the faith.

Ben

[Privateer]

just thought I'd give you the benefit of my own experience working with this gun, which by the way was depressing.

That sounds like it would be a good story to share.
 

Found the steel washer that rests against the trigger housing is bent and worn pretty good.
I raided my Stainless Steel cache for a new washer. I found 2 that I'll use.
That will shim the spring a tad but it should also allow the twist that the old one gave up on once it bent.

[Daremoe]

Privateer, I'm new here and don't want to step on your thread, but I have some pictures
of shim locations and my over-travel screw if you'd like to see them.