Beeman Silver Kodiak 2X Rebuild

[BobbyHumphrey]

Maybe a little off subject but does anybody know if a brushed nickle paint and plenty of clearcoat could re-create that look?

[avator]

Maybe a little off subject but does anybody know if a brushed nickle paint and plenty of clearcoat could re-create that look?

Polish up a piece of steel and try it

[BobbyHumphrey]

Good idea.

[hogrider04]

I've been following this thread so I'd be ready when/if my spring broke. The WHEN happened today. Lost 150fps so I tore it down and found a busted spring. At least I had my teardown tool built and was ready for it. Got the parts ordered from Beeman. At least they threw in some breech seals and a piston seal screw to sweeten the deal. The darn rifle had less than 3000 rounds thru it, but I guess that's par for an inexpensive rifle.

It's all your fault Jeff. The rifle was fine till I started following this thread. 

Jerry

[AK73]

I've been following this thread so I'd be ready when/if my spring broke. The WHEN happened today. Lost 150fps so I tore it down and found a busted spring. At least I had my teardown tool built and was ready for it. Got the parts ordered from Beeman. At least they threw in some breech seals and a piston seal screw to sweeten the deal. The darn rifle had less than 3000 rounds thru it, but I guess that's par for an inexpensive rifle.

It's all your fault Jeff. The rifle was fine till I started following this thread. 

Jerry

Well the one I used to have (the one Jeff has now) had its piston seal go bad in only ~1000 shots. But I think he'll turn it into a nice rifle he'll be happy with.

[hogrider04]

Well the one I used to have (the one Jeff has now) had its piston seal go bad in only ~1000 shots. But I think he'll turn it into a nice rifle he'll be happy with.

Funny thing is, my seal looked good, a whole bunch better than some I've replaced. Still don't know why they can't come up with a more durable spring. This thing hasn't been abused and only shot .22cal 14.3gr thru it.

Oh well,
Jerry

[Privateer]

Oh! Bad luck Jerry! Just glad the info for the socket adapter was provided by Paul.
 

On the piston seal in this AG, you can see the smashed and mashed area in the pictures.
That was where the port had a chunk of metal sticking out. (The Hatsan I have had the same thing)
Once it started breaking down it left bits of metal in the compression chamber. Some you can see embedded in the seal.
One piece took a chunk out of the edge and allowed lube past and then detonation fried the seal.

I have a 18 1/4 inch long drill bit I changed the angle on a bit to remove any burrs left on the port.

[avator]

Heavy tar on those springs seems to help alot.

[hogrider04]

Oh! Bad luck Jerry! Just glad the info for the socket adapter was provided by Paul.
 

On the piston seal in this AG, you can see the smashed and mashed area in the pictures.
That was where the port had a chunk of metal sticking out. (The Hatsan I have had the same thing)
Once it started breaking down it left bits of metal in the compression chamber. Some you can see embedded in the seal.
One piece took a chunk out of the edge and allowed lube past and then detonation fried the seal.

I have a 18 1/4 inch long drill bit I changed the angle on a bit to remove any burrs left on the port.

Now that you point that out, I think I have the same problem. It appears something has been eating at the center of the seal.  I'll compare it to the new one and decide then what to do. Take a look at the pic while I ponder the situation over a cool one.

Jerry

[hogrider04]

Heavy tar on those springs seems to help alot.

You're probably right. How many buckets of tar do you think it'll take to fix this. 

Jerry

[Paul68]

Oh! Bad luck Jerry! Just glad the info for the socket adapter was provided by Paul.
 

On the piston seal in this AG, you can see the smashed and mashed area in the pictures.
That was where the port had a chunk of metal sticking out. (The Hatsan I have had the same thing)
Once it started breaking down it left bits of metal in the compression chamber. Some you can see embedded in the seal.
One piece took a chunk out of the edge and allowed lube past and then detonation fried the seal.

I have a 18 1/4 inch long drill bit I changed the angle on a bit to remove any burrs left on the port.

Now that you point that out, I think I have the same problem. It appears something has been eating at the center of the seal.  I'll compare it to the new one and decide then what to do. Take a look at the pic while I ponder the situation over a cool one.

Jerry

Very common on these guns. The erosion at the area where the seal meets the port is most likely due to the heavy dieseling these guns are prone to when new. The combustion of the oils at the exit point of the port slowly eats at the seal material because the small diameter of the screw compared to typical seal buttons exposes more of the seal area to that effect so close to the port. After rebuilds, proper lubing, and new seals I haven't seen this continue to occur. 

[hogrider04]

Thanks Paul, that does make sense. Unlike the Crosman pistons, this one has an end that is free to rotate which probably makes it even worse.

Jerry

[grizz]

I bought one of these about 3 months ago . mine seems to really like the rws superdomes in both calibers.
mounted a cp 4-16 on a one piece mount. am ooking forward to doing a tune on this rifle.
finaly got to shoot some the otherday and at 10 yd whith rws domes .22 cal from a rest was able to make one big hole.
this rifle sure shoots better than I do . I am really happy whith it sofar.

[Privateer]

Now that you point that out, I think I have the same problem.

I took some of the bits of metal embedded in my seal out and checked with a magnet to be sure it wasn't lead maybe sucked back into the chamber from rebounding.

You can see in my image it's a very deep impact a number of times where yours shows what Paul pointed out.
I took a small piece of wire and checked the inside edge and could feel what burr was left.
The long drill bit fixed that.

[hogrider04]

I checked the port and no burrs, so I'm good to go there. I did have a lot of dieseling in the beginning. I think it took a tin (500) of pellets before it stopped. I guess the broken spring was telling me it's time for a lube/tune.  If I do it right, maybe the new seal won't get that way and the spring won't break as soon. Not sure what the mileage is supposed to be on springs, but hope the new one will last longer than 3000 rounds. I don't want to have to replace it every 3 months if I can keep from it. 

Just an FYI, I've only used CP 14.3's in this rifle. None lighter and none heavier.

Jerry

[Paul68]

If you clean it up, smooth everything, and lube it lightly with moly you should have no problems with heavy dieseling, although it will still take about 100 shots to seat the seal well before all dieseling stops. The OEM seals are ok, but nowhere near the quality of an aftermarket from Vortek or ARH. Still, I don't think you'll have any problems with seal erosion after a basic cleanup and moly lube.

I've had the same stock spring in mine for around a year now, and probably 3k shots on it, still going strong. My gun has been cleaned up, lube tuned, trigger worked, barrel chopped, recrowned, loading port smoothed, and shrouded.  It has a stock OEM replacement spring and seal. The spring is actually an old one that had been removed because it was down on power. I mounted the spring on a steel rod, heated it to cherry red with a torch, oil quenched it, and then did some mild tempering to remove the brittleness. It surprised me by producing 18 fpe and staying there for over 3,000 shots. I still need to get around to refinishing the stock.

 

[hogrider04]

Jeff, you never said if you got your seal screw loose or not. I'm curious because mine was tight but unscrewed fine. You asked a few posts back about loctite for this screw. Did you ever get an answer?? Mine had no signs of anything on it. Oh yeah, got any parts yet?? Mine won't be shipped til Monday.

Paul, my rifle looks like yours except when I shortened the barrel I installed an Air Venturi ported muzzlebrake. Did the trigger, loading port and crown. Now it looks like I'll do all the inside stuff. Hope the new spring holds up cause I know nothing about heat treating a spring. I'd probably end up melting it. 

Jerry

[grizz]

I emailed a guy from utube that says I can install a spring from a tf 89 or an ar1000 that should boost the power.
don't know if this is accurate or not as I am new to springers. would just like to boost the power for the .22 cal
as that is what I shoot the most.have you had any luck getting the muzzlebrakes off? was looking at mine and
itapears that there is a red locktight  along whith the set screw holding it on. would like to get it off and not mess it up
so I can recrown the barrel.i have about 600 rounds through mine now and it shoots well seems to have a decent amount of power
would like to find someone whith a crony to see what it is doing as I shoot mostly rws superdomes. any help would be greatly appreciated. im glad you did this thred on a tear down am enjoying it very much.

[Privateer]

Jerry,
I haven't messed with the seal screw yet. I tried before I cut the seal off and it wouldn't budge. I'll use blue locktite just to be safe.

grizz,
I'd get specs on the spring before I ordered one. Maybe Paul has more info about this?
Since I did order a new spring to check against the old one? I may do the heat and oil quench like Paul said and see if there's a difference.
The new chrony will come in handy and I'd offer you access to mine but your a bit of a drive away.
 

[Paul68]

Retempering the spring was really an experiment for me and it takes a little finesse. You have to do the initial heat and quench, then another light heating not allowing it to get past around 500 degrees to get rid of the brittleness, then letting it cool off as slowly as possible. Fun experiment though if you have a new spring coming and aren't worried about the old spring failing.

The only aftermarket spring I know of for these guns is the E8970 spring from Air Rifle Headquarters. Otherwise you're stuck using an OEM spring.
http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251488/6825218.htm

The stock RS2 spring (same spring for AR 1000 and TF89) should be around 44-46 coils, .120" diam wire, .465 inner diam, .717 outer diam,  12-12.5" free length un-set. I give "should be" measurements because I have seen some variation in new OEM springs.

The stock spring will have a compressed height of around 5.28" to  5.52" depending on number of coils (44 or 46), the ARH spring will have a compressed height of 4.68", so it might need shimming. I believe the ARH spring is better quality material and has a greater pitch, which lets it produce more power despite having fewer coils.



The problem with the Beeman RS2 guns is the spring is an unusual small diameter design. It isn't too hard to make larger guides to run a larger spring, but the inside diameter of the piston pretty much kills any chance of doing that. So you're stuck trying to find a small diam spring that will fit within the piston.