Quote from: ivanpros on March 18, 2014, 12:42:28 AMQuote from: sr1sws on March 17, 2014, 11:32:19 PMOverall, the gun shoots OK, but not quite a good as I think it could/should. It seems to like Crosman 10.5g 'brown box' Premiers best. I haven't found a wad cutter that it likes for more than about 2 shots.I keep looking for something amiss, hence my question on polishing the leade.I have a Mellonair 'long probe' bolt on order, but if he's really still 12 weeks behind it will be 3 months before that shows up. They are supposed to help with accuracy - cheap enough to try.Thanks for the tips!SteveIf you want better accuracy follow the link below:http://www.tko22.com/info.htmlAdding the 2 screws and shimming the barrel bands (very important what he says about angle of the the barrel; you do not want to change this) changed my 25 yard groups from 3/8" to same hole accuracy.Been there, done that. I'm now using 2 bands - one at breech and one ~1" from barrel end. No shims. Rear band is tight to air tube and barrel, front is tight to air tube only. It's better, but I want better still... until I know it's me that's making that pellet go "there" Steve
Quote from: sr1sws on March 17, 2014, 11:32:19 PMOverall, the gun shoots OK, but not quite a good as I think it could/should. It seems to like Crosman 10.5g 'brown box' Premiers best. I haven't found a wad cutter that it likes for more than about 2 shots.I keep looking for something amiss, hence my question on polishing the leade.I have a Mellonair 'long probe' bolt on order, but if he's really still 12 weeks behind it will be 3 months before that shows up. They are supposed to help with accuracy - cheap enough to try.Thanks for the tips!SteveIf you want better accuracy follow the link below:http://www.tko22.com/info.htmlAdding the 2 screws and shimming the barrel bands (very important what he says about angle of the the barrel; you do not want to change this) changed my 25 yard groups from 3/8" to same hole accuracy.
Overall, the gun shoots OK, but not quite a good as I think it could/should. It seems to like Crosman 10.5g 'brown box' Premiers best. I haven't found a wad cutter that it likes for more than about 2 shots.I keep looking for something amiss, hence my question on polishing the leade.I have a Mellonair 'long probe' bolt on order, but if he's really still 12 weeks behind it will be 3 months before that shows up. They are supposed to help with accuracy - cheap enough to try.Thanks for the tips!Steve
You may need to start experimenting with the position of your bands. Barrel resonation is a vibration in the barrel that actually cycles up and down the length of the barrel once the gun goes off, and if the barrel is resonating at or near the muzzle when the pellet exits, it is going to do terrible things to accuracy. Changing the position of the bands will change this. I would also consider lapping the entire barrel. I lapped mine, 6 screwed the band, and thought it was gonna shoot great. Much to my dismay, it didn't change a bit until i tried moving the band around and changing how i was loading the barrel with the set screws. Now, about 1.5" forward of the original position, with the screws set right, its a tack driver.
Quote from: Mr.Bojangles on March 18, 2014, 09:42:36 PMYou may need to start experimenting with the position of your bands. Barrel resonation is a vibration in the barrel that actually cycles up and down the length of the barrel once the gun goes off, and if the barrel is resonating at or near the muzzle when the pellet exits, it is going to do terrible things to accuracy. Changing the position of the bands will change this. I would also consider lapping the entire barrel. I lapped mine, 6 screwed the band, and thought it was gonna shoot great. Much to my dismay, it didn't change a bit until i tried moving the band around and changing how i was loading the barrel with the set screws. Now, about 1.5" forward of the original position, with the screws set right, its a tack driver.Any magic formula for determining band position - or is it simply trial and error? Steve
Joe, you are definitely right. I moved my barrel bands and did 10 shot groups and it is amazing what a difference it makes. I probably did about 6 positions (60 shots) until I got it right. After all this the shimming is what finally got me where I needed to be.
No more than 1/4" at 25 yards benchrested on a Caldwell bag. This is just plinking; if I do my part they are same ragged holes conistently for 22 shots.
Moving the pivot point on the link forward reduces the trigger pull when moving the sear, but increases the travel.... If you replace the coil spring behind the trigger with a lighter one, and make no other changes, you will immediately notice what feels like a 2-stage trigger, first as you compress the coil spring, and then as the link moves the sear which is loaded by the hairpin style spring.... If you install the upper back screw, as you screw it in, you will be tilting the trigger, moving the blade back at the bottom and shortening what you are perceiving as the 1st stage.... Eventually you will have no 1st stage, only the 2nd, harder stage as you begin to move the sear against the hairpin spring.... It is at this point in the movement that changing the pivot point changes the leverage, reducing the effort but increasing the distance the trigger will move during the second stage.... The lower back screw adjusts only the "over-travel" of the trigger (ie how far it moves after the gun fires).... and THAT is the one that can cause sear drag if set too close.... because it doesn't allow the sear to drop enough to completely clear the hammer.... causing erratic velocities.... DON'T SET IT TOO CLOSE OR YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS....The third, front screw, if installed, requires drilling and tappng another hole in the space between the plastic lug and the front of the link lever, so that you can adjust the position of the front of the link lever.... Screwing it in moves the link up, pressing on the front of the sear, moving the back of the sear down and decreasing the engagement.... Taken to the extreme, it makes the gun unsafe as there is so little engagement that the gun will fire if bumped hard (or won't even cock).... If you redrill the link to move the pivot forward, the 2nd stage gets longer, and although the effort is less, you get a "creepy" trigger, which I find unsatisfactory.... You can compenstate by screwing in the third screw and reducing the sear engagement, but that will eventually make the gun unsafe....So, what is redrilling the link accomplishing?.... It is reducing the 2nd stage pull (a good thing), but it is reducing the sear travel, causing more creep for a given (ie safe) engagement (a bad thing).... Is there a better way?.... IMO, yes, instead of redrilling the link, just reduce the angle between the legs of the hairpin spring about 5 degrees by bending it carefully.... Then you can have a safer sear engagement and yet reduce the weight of the trigger pull during the 2nd stage.... It doesn't take much to drastically change the trigger pull, try it and see.... Use a protractor, or simply draw lines on a piece of paper along the legs of the spring when stock, and then push the legs towards each other until the coils tighten up and the legs are at a slightly tighter angle when relaxed.... The tighter the angle, the less force required during the 2nd stage to move the sear.... Don't go too far, or you may make the trigger unsafe.... mind you it's an easy thing to bend the legs out again to change it....The above assumes that you have replaced the coil spring behind the trigger blade with a lighter one, or you won't even feel the two stages.... I use a coil spring of the same diameter and length but made from 0.020" wire instead of the stock 0.028" wire, and find it just right.... If you want a really light 1st stage, you can go down to 0.016" wire.... Sometimes I don't even bother with the 3rd (front) screw, just replacing the coil spring, bending the hairpin spring, and installing and adjusting the two rear screws makes for quite a nice trigger, particularly for hunting.... For a target gun, adding the 3rd screw to reduce the sear engagement is nice....Bob
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