Umarex RWS D34

[TooJung2Die]

Clean the barrel using Goo Gone on a pull through from the breech. Check the crown for burrs with a q-tip. Make sure the three stock screws are snug before you shoot. Then check them again after every hundred shots. If they are coming loose use Loctite blue on the threads. Mike at Flying Dragon Air Rifles has often said if you can't afford a tune just shoot it a couple thousand times. That'll smooth it out.

[Donewiththis]

I'm really new to air rifles, and I just installed a Vortex kit in my 34.   Long story (Rant) short, I bought the rifle new, and I was unable to sight it in with the iron sights.   I exceeded the mechanical limitations of the rear sight, and I was still 10" low at 10 yards.   I contacted Umarex, and they suggested I just scope it.   So, I read all about "droop", and then ordered a droop mount, and then a second adjustable Hawke droop mount.   They kind of work, but I'm not happy with it.   The rifle was dry, and difficult to cock.   I watched an Umarex You tube video on how to care for it.  So, I ordered the $50.00 RWS "Shooter's kit", and then I did what "Glen and Danny" of Umarex suggested in their video: I put two drops of chamber lube directly into the air chamber, and 4 drops of spring oil on the main spring.   I subsequently busted the spring within a few shots.   I returned it to Umarex, and they tried to hold the rifle hostage, demanding $200.00 in repairs because I over-lubed it!    I refused to pay, and filed a credit card dispute with the vendor I bought it from.   Umarex returned the rifle "repaired".   The rifle had no power, and the droop was worse than before.   I demanded a new rifle, and naturally they refused.   I filed a Better Business Bureau complaint (Umarex has a bunch of complaints, and I encourage everyone to report them).   So, I did some research & subsequently built a spring compressor.   It's all pretty straight forward.  Anyway, I found a big .25" size piece of the piston seal missing.   It actually looks like it was carved out with a knife.  HMMM?     I used some fine files, and tried to "de-burr" the slots.    I sprayed the insides out with gun scrubber, and mopped it up with clean patches.  It looked pretty clean.  I really don't know what I'm doing, and Vortex didn't include real directions.   I put a little molly on the piston, and on the spring.   I left the seal dry.    After a few shots, I noted smoke, so I opened it up again, and wiped the seal down, and removed some of the molly I had on the piston.  I just left it sticky.   Not sure if that's right.   I had cleaned the bore with Goo Gone, so perhaps the smoke is from that effort.    I'm going to shoot it some.    I supposed I can always add more molly later if it feels dry, and perhaps order another seal if I cook this one.     I'm going to put the scope back on it, and see if it holds up.   The take away here is that I'm not real pleased with Umarex.   First they sell you the rifle for 200 to 250, and then the snake oil kit for 50.00 (Chamber and spring oil).     They basically tell you to put chamber lube directly into the air chamber, which will destroy the seal and perhaps the spring.   Then, when the rifle detonates and breaks the spring and cooks the seal, they say you are responsible for the damages because you "over-lubed" the rifle.    Like I said, I was really new, and actually believed Umarex would put me in the right direction.    One guy on another form described Umarex as "liars and thieves", and that seems to be an accurate characterization of their business practices.   Had I known what I was getting into, I would have built a spring compressor first, and cleaned and lubed the rifle correctly.    I won't buy another Umarex product, be it an air rifle or an MP-5 .22 clone, etc.  I just won't do business with Umarex.   If anyone can give me direction on exactly where to put the molly inside the gun, I would appreciate it.  I keep reading "behind the seal" and something about the piston "skirt".   I'm not clear on exactly what that means.   Perhaps I would have been better off buying an HW, and I can't recommend anyone buy an RWS/Diana/Umarex product.   They are just bad people.     I’m sure there are lots of people that bought an RWS 34, and had no problems, and are completely happy.    Well, I’m not one of them.    I’m still learning, and so far I’ve learned not to listen to Umarex or buy their products.   Good luck to everyone.           

[chet]

 don't know if ya want to call them liars or thieves. i will never go umarex again, as i mentioned in the first post, rip it down to be safe, i feel Umarex is gonna sink faster than the Titanic, just give them some time, what goes around comes around.

  Chet

[Donewiththis]

Thanks for the response.   The 34 calmed down, and the smoke stopped.   Actually, I opened it up again (twice) and removed some of the molly I had on the piston, and wiped the seal clean (again).   All looks good after about 100 pellets.   I don't know if I had too much molly on the piston and it worked down to the piston seal, or if the smoke was just a result of the Goo-Gone being shot out of the bore.   Nothing appeared burnt or blackened.   Whatever the case, the smoke has stopped.   Here's a couple of photos of the old seal.   It obvious that something was amiss.    So far, I'm happy with the way the Vortex kit smoothed everything out.   Thanks again.