XS60C PCP Repeater project

[rsterne]

Looks good....

Bob

[stalwart]

Glad you like it! Yours is pictured.

I found a way to speed these up a bit more: I was reversing to clear chips, often, to get a pretty finish. Pretty dumb... considering that that finish will never be seen, and it will get a roughening up to aid in bonding.

I'm hogging them now. Yours and T's are done, and Mike's is in the lathe. I'm pretty tickled with the new set up... it wasn't cheap, but it will pay for itself soon.

[RMM]

I think I've got the thu-tube tooling covered... finally. Took me long enough! Boring these takes forever (have to go easy to pass slots and holes)... this takes 1/2 as long.

Unless a tail is needed, they will be cut to this depth. There is no reason to go past the striker, and have to deal with re-drilling the mounting holes. This gives us the steel pin slot, and striker channel.

Very nice Eric.  Very nice indeed.

[stalwart]

Thank you sir!

Does this look vaguely familiar?

[rsterne]

How much hammer travel can you get without boring for a through tube?.... Will it still be possible to fit a longer spring and RVA that is externally adjustable?....

Bob

[RHytonen]

Glad you like it! Yours (Bob's) is pictured.

I must be misunderstanding the "through tube' thing - isn't it a one piece pressure tube that extends back through the receiver? In that case wouldn't the picture show a (nom.) 25" long tube?

Or is the idea to retain modular replaceability of the stock FD tube?

I guess this is just the receiver to show how it's hogged out....never mind
How is the through tube 'fixed?' That epoxy they use for barrels?

Looking forward to the earliest I can send you my GenI receiver. It's just sitting here....
January 3, I order a Cothran valve and some 4130 (7/8", .065) - and will hopefully have found a barrel.
Rod

[RMM]

Thank you sir!

Does this look vaguely familiar?

Heh, heh, heh Yes it do, and it's looking gooooood tooooo!!! 

Was messing with my Bobcat, setting up for JSB 18.13's (permanently), today and shot dead my chrony.  I was jut breaking that chrony in!!  No wake, she's for sure dead, but funeral will be tomorrow in the A.M..  LOL!!      On my "Notes to myself list" I added shoot a target after removing stuff from rifle before throwing lead over the chrony..  Front scope ring wasn't seated in dovetail  (the rear one was) so scope was high and barrel shot low. 

[stalwart]

How much hammer travel can you get without boring for a through tube?.... Will it still be possible to fit a longer spring and RVA that is externally adjustable?....

Bob

You mean a tail? Without a tail, we can roughly double the stroke, and the weight. IIRC, 25mm is easy.

Both are possible with a custom striker. The adjuster design for tail-less will fit stock rifles, too. I'm really hoping the Cothran lives up to it's promises... it would pay for itself in labor alone, over a tail.

Thank you sir!

Does this look vaguely familiar?

Heh, heh, heh Yes it do, and it's looking gooooood tooooo!!! 

Was messing with my Bobcat, setting up for JSB 18.13's (permanently), today and shot dead my chrony.  I was jut breaking that chrony in!!  No wake, she's for sure dead, but funeral will be tomorrow in the A.M..  LOL!!      On my "Notes to myself list" I added shoot a target after removing stuff from rifle before throwing lead over the chrony..  Front scope ring wasn't seated in dovetail  (the rear one was) so scope was high and barrel shot low. 

I've only hit mine with a P17... chewed up the sticker real good...lol. Seems everyone does it, eventually.

I'm always open to suggestions on adhesives. They get better every year.

1/2 way through a thru-tube installation, you get a great base for a lined 1.5K. This one had good threads, but a deep scratch. I'll put the lip in as discussed earlier. I did Mike's from the back, as the order was made after the barrel had been bonded

[stalwart]

Even hogged, the bores need roughing. A quick twist of 80 grit, on a cordless drill, will put teeth in them.

Second from the bottom,right, is one with the seal cut made so non-concentric, I'd bet lunch it wasn't ever going to seal.

[rsterne]

How much room is left above the top of the tube for a Crosman MRod.25 cal magazine?.... When you machine the notch does it hit the tube?.... What about the PRod mag?....

Bob

[stalwart]

None.

I plan to make a mag well floor that can be changed to a single shot tray, that attaches to the top of the block. I had planned to make inserts for the different mags, but I like your idea of changing the mag wheels a lot more.

A PRod mag well will come pretty close to the tube, if not touch it.

How much room is left above the top of the tube for a Crosman MRod.25 cal magazine?.... When you machine the notch does it hit the tube?.... What about the PRod mag?....

Bob

[rsterne]

So the tube ends up milled across the top for an MRod mag?....

Bob

[stalwart]

Yes.

[stalwart]

Is there any reason I can't powder coat (400F, 10mins) the tanks? I have an armor coating (rubberized) that would make a decent foregrip and "clank" remover.

I will have to play with textures, but could compliment the bedliner stocks nicely, I'm guessing.

[rsterne]

I can't think of any reason.... Take the regulator off first, of course, and protect the threads and O-ring seat well....

Bob

[stalwart]

The Cothran valve came, and I'm encouraged! There is enough brass in the right places to convert it to a 60. I may have to make a longer stem, but we'll see.

[tominMPLS]

Eric,, I looked at my Cothran valve and had the same thought about a longer valve stem.  Being hollow and that tiny hole makes it a bit of an issue to machine a new stem.  My thought is to use a two piece stem, like the firing pin that the lever action Marlin rifles use.  The second stem would be mounted in the valve backer block.  My thought on the subject.

Tom

[stalwart]

Tom, I hadn't noticed that tiny hole until you mentioned it. I bet you're right.

Sure is nicely made. What did you plan for yours?

[rsterne]

Never seen one, but how about machining off the back of the valve body to increase the available lift IF you think that is an issue for a big-bore?.... From lift measurements I have done, the lift is about 1/4 the throat diameter at the high pressure end of the fill range, and about double that at the low pressure end (and shouldn't be).... If the throat is 1/2", your lift range will start at about 1/8" and go up to 1/4".... In a regulated gun, properly tuned for efficiency, the lift will never exceed 1/3 of the throat diameter (and more likely about 1/4).... Of course I have no idea if those lift measurements apply to the Cothran valve....

Bob

[tominMPLS]

The hollow valve stem and that tiny hole is how that valve operates the piston.  Perhaps you haven't taken the valve apart, but it is TOTALLY different than any other valve in the way it functions.

I have had my valve for almost a year and haven't decided what to build.  Being partially disabled I don't get out to shoot much anymore as living in this stupid city means I have to drive a fair distance to do so.  I wanted to build a .308 boolit shooter but am unsure about that.  I may just sell the valve to someone that could really use it as I could build the rifle, but have no where to shoot/test it!

I think you will find a heck of a lot of power in that valve.  Best wishes for a kick-butt rifle!  Build a .30 first!

Tom