Congratulations! You've bought the best airgun you can find for this money. This great gun is also known as Weihrauch HW40 (labeled "Made in Germany") and Marksman 2004 Deluxe (labeled "Made in China"). What does the Beeman say? Made in U.S.A.?
Thanks for the info. Did you know that there are barrels in .20 and .22 available?Perhaps you should replace the nut under the rear sight with a safety nut.
dang mine don't have the fiber optic sights
Look at my blog: http://airgunsmith.tumblr.com/ Theres a picture of the nut. In germany we would call it a "self securing nut". Sorry, I don't know the english term.The chinese made Marksmann 2004 doesn't have a truglo sight either (the HW40 has one). I really don't miss it.
The P17 and the HW40 are not quite the same gun, but they are extremely similar. The P17 is a licensed copy. The basic differences are the materials used for the internals and some slight cosmetic changes. The polymer on the HW40 is a little nicer, too.I sure love the P17s. Awesome gun for the money, and not hard to work on.
Yeah, and the main thing that wears out is the seal on the piston, which is five minutes and a trip to the hardware store to replace. White lithium grease is never a bad idea anyway, though. My original valve seal did go bad, so I bought a bunch of these:Piston seal: http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367_123_128&products_id=5354Breech and valve seals: http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367_123_129&products_id=5387You've probably already seen this, but if you haven't, it's super handy when getting to know the gun. Just be sure and read the comments, too:http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/derricks-on-beeman-p17-overhaul-part-1.html
Haha, well, I learned about them a lot from the 'net and topics like the above blog post. I bought 6 of them for the guys in my extended family and gave them as gifts with a "free tune" coupon and a tin of JSBs. I have ended up overhauling 4 of them (mine included), so now I can do it in my sleep. I do it pretty much like the fellow recommends in the article, except I hand-polish the sear contact edge with emery cloth and sandpaper. I also use lithium grease instead of slick honey. 2 out of the ones I worked on had issues with the valve sealing which was fixed by the plumbers tape and a new valve seal, one was a worn out breech seal as I mentioned, and one would not fire because the sear would catch on the lever. The last issue was solved by polishing the seam on the face of the sear off, which I would recommend doing anyway because it adds up to 20 fps because the hammer will land more decisively. The last one I tuned (not mine, sadly) shoots Arm Arms 8.4 grain pellets at ~405 fps. Mine is 10 or so FPS less.All in all, I can see why people complain about quality control, but the issues are so easy to fix that the total cost in money and effort still makes the gun a steal.
I agree that it's a great gun for the money. It's accurate, has a nice trigger, and can be re-sealed from an automotive parts store. The nut on the valve stem works loose sometimes, but a little blue Loctite cures that. Burrs on the cylinder intake port sometimes chew up the piston seal, but a rub with some 600 grit abrasive paper fixes that. (I prefer Super Lube grease over lithium).By the way, wern0r's link shows a 2004 with a Hogue grip band. It's a good idea, but a discarded 20" bicycle tube works just as well.
Which Hogue Handall grip is that?
Quote from: silent_airman on June 05, 2013, 10:15:19 AMWhich Hogue Handall grip is that? It's called Hogue Handall Universal Slip-On Grip Sleeve Rubber. The colour is olive. I ordered it from MidwayDeutschland, so I think it will be available from MidwayUSA too
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