Spring compressor

[Perry]

John, that may work but it can also be very dangerous if the action slips out of the clamp.

[oldpink]

Here are a couple more pics of the spring compressor. The bottom board is a 2X6 as well as the blocks. The blocks are screwed into the bottom of the board. All three of my springers have shrouded barrels that have a diameter of about one inch so the smaller hole was drilled into the first block using a 1" bit at the same height of the end of the bar clamp. The other block was cut in half and a hinge was installed so it can open up. The hole is 1 1/2" with a groove cut out for the cocking arm to fit. The hole was drilled first before cutting the block in half and is also the same height as the clamp screw.  As you can see, I also cut grooves into the blocks at the bottom so the bar clamp will be held down tight onto the platform with an additional block at the end enabling the bar clamp to be adjusted. Finally I drilled a hole in the clamp handle and inserted a stainless steel dowel to help when tightening the clamp but it isn't really necessary.

Warren, the carabiner is used to secure the hinged block down on the action for safety reasons but isn't visible in the pics below. I have a piece of string keeping the block held down.

Okay, I used Perry's basic idea to make a version of my own.
It's not perfect, and I am pretty sure I will have to make some small modifications, such as cutting a groove in the right hand upright block for the cocking arm.
One thing I did to modify it was to cut the left hand block, then add a hinge and hasp to it, as with the right, to facilitate inserting the rifle without having to remove the front sight assembly.
As you can see, I already have two carabiners to keep both hasps secured.
It's a bit crooked and certainly not as pretty as Perry's, but I am eager to use it for the first time.


Total board length - 40"
Right side of board to right side of right upright - 14.75"
Distance between uprights - 16.5"

Anyway, I will be using this pretty soon to do a complete tune and seal job on my .177 Gamo CFX, which is definitely showing signs of being sick.
The most obvious indicator is that the muzzle velocity for the JSB Exact has declined from 750fps to 600fps.
And, yes, both of my Gamos wear Bob's magnificent gold trigger, so they are both tunable.
I just have some questions for those of you who may have done this job on the CFX.
1) What exact parts do I need from Jiim Maccari, including the seal for the transfer port?
2) What additional hand tools will I need for this, such as polishing stones, pin punches, etc?
3) Are there detailed instructions here or elsewhere to explain each step for tuning the CFX, especially that tricky transfer port seal?
4) Since I also have a gas ram CFX in .22 caliber, is it any different to do the tune only on it and keep the ram?
5) I assume I will also need some lubricants especially formulated for airguns, so what will I need, and can I get them from Maccari, or is there a better (i.e. cheaper) source?
6) What special little tricks specific to the CFX are there that you gurus might know?
7) Is there anything else I should know or need for this job?

Thanks, guys.

[Lochlainn]

Nice work! Looks great

[Perry]

oldpink, it looks like it will do the job!

Let us know how it works after you get your CFX in there.

[oldpink]

Thanks, guys.
I just need to get a ton of info before.
I believe LongIslandArcher is at least one guy who has some good information on the CFX.

[LITEHAMMER]

Here's one I made. Safe and simple. The central block is split horizontally, for access to action.