IZH 46 M/ and how many own one?

[be4meliz]

Give me your feedback-tips and tricks, what you use for lube,grip tuning tricks, etc Love this Russian-wish Crosman made these barrels. any info is good.Shoots ANY pellet well-some better!Can outshoot me.And look out 5meter and 10 comp.-its on- Just shot 148 3X on 5 mtr.
Steve

[WhitleyStu]

Steve,
The only mod I made was removing the 90° edge on the front let side of the grip.  Now it is very comfortable to shoot.  RWS R10, H&Ns and RWS Meisterkugeln all do well.  I have shot up all my other SWC and now just purchase RWS R10s.  A drop of chamber oil (I use RWS) once in a while on the piston seal and a wipe down of the external metal parts is all it really needs to keep it in like new condition.  Also, the trigger can be set to a very crisp low pull weight.  Fantastic pistol for the money.  I am sure you will enjoy target shooting with this Russian gem...     

And look out 5meter and 10 comp.-its on- Just shot 148 3X on 5 mtr.
Steve

BTW, beware of "Team Steyr"...

[be4meliz]

Thanks for the info- where can i get the oil? I have R-10 pellets and the Meisterkugeln w/C- which work well-
Thanks again and look forward to beating you in the 5meter- working on the 10. LOL
Steve

[Dockey 454]

WhitleyStu is right great pistol. Wife gave me one for Christmas. looking forward to shooting some matches myself this year. Already put 3 tins through it. Stoger match work almost as good as R10's. Good luck with the new gun.

[Mark@]

Is Pelloil the same stuff?

I just got one of these.  make sure you have plenty of pushpins to aim at!

These came recommended by another member when I first got my Izzy: H&N FINALE MATCH PISTOL PELLETS 4.50, 7.56 gr

[coax]

Mine shoots about anything better than I can shoot.  I use domes mostly to shoot silouhettes outdoors.  It's a fantastic pistol!  After you are done shooting, don't leave pressure on the seal, unlatch it for storage. If not it'll flatten out and leak.

[TCups]

Get yourself a quart of air compressor oil (silicone base) and the local auto parts store. Get a syringe w/ needle and file the sharp tip flat.  Use the blunt-tip needle to put a tiny (as in as small as you can dispense off of the needle tip) drop of silicone oil on the seal every few hundred shots.  One quart of silicone-based compressor oil will service every pumper you own for the rest of your shooting life much cheaper than paying a premium for a tiny 10 ml bottle of PelGun Oil.

Also, time to re-up this general info article on lubrication of firearms.

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

In addition to a quart of 30-wt, non-detergent motor oil and Dexron type ATF (the bulk "staples" of inexpensive lubricants and rust protection), small quantities of the specialized grease and oil mentioned in the article can now be purchased as a "Lubrikit".

http://www.lubrikit.com/

[Dockey 454]

My biggest problem is not geting the breach locked down tight, and chaseing the seals across the basement. Good thing I ordered some xtras.

[ac12]

The grip is bulky for a reason.
You should modify it to fit YOUR hand.
And it isn't like grabbing a block of clay.  That is a passive fit.
The various parts of the grip have a purpose and some of that is to steer the pistol.  This is an active fit.
The following is from the late Don Nygord:

Modifying Your Pistol's Grip

One thing that we can probably say for sure is that there are two kinds of pistol shooters: Those that are working on their grips and those that are going to be working on their grips. This is because while there are a zillion different hands out there to hold pistols, the manufacturers decided that maybe four or six or eight different sizes/types of grip were enough to make and stock for each pistol. So, as everyone wants to have THE perfect fit, we are left with no choice but to start modifying. But what and how? We'll try to set out some of the basics in text as fancy diagrams will have to wait for the book.
The objectives:
•   The pistol grip should be made so that your grip is reproducible. Pistol target shooting is just an exercise in repeating the same thing without deviation up to sixty or ninety times, so if the shooter grips the gun in always the same way, as Forrest Gump would say, "That's one more thing not to worry about."
•   Next, the grip should allow the sights to be aligned without having to angle the hand at the wrist. In events like Rapid Fire and Free Pistol, it is critical that when the arm is brought up and the gun allowed to settle with the eyes closed, when the eyes are opened the sights are seen to be aligned.
•   Then the grip should help support the gun and give a "secure" feeling without you having to exert a lot of force on it.
•   Finally, we can throw in at least a degree of comfort as a requirement (certainly no pain!)
The major mistake most novice grip changers make is to ADD too much "stuff". Very seldom does material need to be added to a modern generation target pistol grip! Quite to the contrary, most are too big in one or more places for the average hand.
Hold your relaxed hand out in front of you and look at how the fingers curl and how a wedge shape is defined as you go from the second finger down to the little finger. A grip should taper in the same manner.
•   Almost always the first removals should be where the web of the hand (between the thumb and forefinger) goes around the grip so the hand is not stretched out unnaturally.
•   The next thing is to taper the grip so the fingers can get around and have the second segment of the fingers perpendicular to the bore. Finger grooves are optional and if not placed perfectly can be a problem. Simpler and better is to make three tapered flats running from the top of the grip to the bottom for the finger segments to lie against.
Once these adjustments are made, the grip will usually be far more comfortable, the trigger finger will reach the trigger shoe correctly, and because the flats were proportioned for YOUR hand, the grip will be reproducible.
Next time we'll get to changes that might be needed to bring the front sight into alignment with the rear notch, and when you need to add "stuff".

Modifying Your Pistol's Grip—Part II

We discussed the general fit of the pistol grip to the hand in the last "tip", and now we need to look at the adjustments that should be made to the grip to bring the line of the sights on the gun into congruence with the line of the eye/target when in shooting position.
You often see the silly statement that the gun should be in a straight line with the bones of your arm, and also with your shooting eye. A second's thought and a quick look shows you that unless you are a contortionist, the gun will NOT be in a straight line with the bones of your arm if it comes anywhere near lining up with your shooting eye!
The gun obviously sits in the hand at a small angle to the bones of the arm—and if "cross dominant" (right-handed and left eye dominant for example), a somewhat greater angle! This angle can be adjusted by making additions or cuts to the grip.
To have it clear where to add or remove material from the grip to adjust alignment, cup your shooting hand slightly and think of the center of the hollow formed in that palm as the pivot point for right and left adjustments.
This means that if the front sight points to the left when you are in shooting position:
•   Then for the gun to move to the right, there must be LESS wood at the front of that "pivot point". Most grips have a shallow depression at the side/front where the fleshy pads at the base of the fingers can nestle. If this groove is deepened (and at the same time dimensioned for YOUR hand), then the gun can pivot to the right.
•   Now the same effect can be realized by ADDING material to the LEFT (if you are right handed) side of the grip, at the back, where the big fleshy pad at the bottom of the palm rests against the (hopefully) curved surface. This is the hypothenar muscle and where it fits against the grip is a primary index feature. When you fit the gun into the hand, you press that pad against the wood first, and then wrap the hand around the rest of the grip. So, adding material there - in BACK of the pivot point - will move the front sight to the right.
Now, obviously just the reverse of the above - taking material away from the hypothenar contact "pocket" - or - adding material to the groove in the front side of the grip - will move the front of the gun to the LEFT.
The next thing to consider as you are working on the front groove is to more sharply define and perhaps add to the RIDGE that is formed in front of the groove. This ridge should go into the crease at the bottom of the fingers where they join the palm. It is your second index feature.
As you wrap your hand around the grip after getting into the hypothenar pocket, you should feel the ridge slip into the crease. Building UP this ridge CAN move the front of the gun to the LEFT, of course. The total effect will be a very secure feel, and a grip that results in the sights being in near perfect alignment!

[be4meliz]

Thanks for all the ideas- would silicone spray be acceptable for piston seal? and diver grease on o-rings? and on to the stock- what is the best way to shape your grip-I had thought my Dremmel with a drum sander and a bit at a time, checking fit as I go-saw some ideas on stippling the finger grooves using a sharpened nail set or finish nail for better grip.

[ac12]

I shape my grip with:
removing: large and medium round files, dremel w various bits, sandpaper
adding: plastic wood, "putty" epoxy (the one that you kneed w your fingers, NOT mix w spoon)

I have not stippled my grips.  I found I don't need to.  If you feel you have to stipple the grip, there may be something else that needs to be done to make the grip fit.  The only AP that I used a rough surface on was the backstrap on a Daisy 747, and that was only because it did not have a palm rest.

ps. remove the action from the grip and wrap with plastic wrap, then put the action back into the grip.  This is to keep as much of the wood dust OUT of the action as you can.  There WILL be a LOT of wood dust.

[WhitleyStu]

I found that using a 5" round palm sander with 220 paper to be a slow and controled was to round the edges that need to be reshaped.  I kept the rest of the grip the way it came from factory.

[TCups]

I just used a small jeweler's file with the rounded face and made 3 cupped grooves for my fingers on the squared edge of the grip.  I have large hands, so the rest of the grip fit me perfectly.