Older Sheridan stock refinish

[pipestone]

Anyone know what kind of finish they came with?...and what have some of you done for a refinish.

In the past I've used many..many..many..and many coats of Boiled linseed oil over the coarse of months and years to fill the grain, put them back in action during the curing process....like 4-5 years and then went over with a hand rub poly, I didn't do this intentionally, the wait period that is but they turned out real nice. From old guys that knew their stuff, they say you shouldn't apply anything over BLO, that it just doesn't work, but it did for me after such a long wait and cure.

I wonder if you can use tung oil with a shorter wait period to fill with and then use the H R poly? The oils are nice by themselves with the feel and warmth but you can't beat the poly for durability.

Just pondering this evening what approach I want to take and thought I'd throw It out there.

Thanks for your time-

Dana

[longhunter]

Tung oil is my go to, but, I've done a few with satin poly. Either one will give you a good, long wearing finish.

[bantam5s]

I just go with a few hand rubbed coats of BLO or danish oil finished with some beeswax.
I don't go crazy because I like the look of USGI walnut.

[RBQChicken]

Get some Minwax antique oil finish.  It's like an oil/varnish blend. Super easy and foolproof to use. Soaks in like oil, so it brings out the grain. Liberally apply, let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes, then wipe it all off with a rag.  If it got too tacky in the meantime to wipe off, you just add a little more, then wipe it off.  Let dry overnight.
 One or two coats is all you need (unless you're trying to fill the grain) and it is very hard.  Satin finish, but you could add more coats if you wanted a little more sheen.
Because you're wiping off all the excess, it's an In-the-wood (not on the wood) finish.
The only other finish I've worked with is Tru-oil, and the Minwax is far superior in every way.

[tennx]

I like them OG..so I leave them alone….good luck

[pipestone]

I do appreciate the reply's, but Phillip is OG stand for original?

I do wonder what the original finish consisted of...maybe or probably a varnish?

What I have is a big dent in one of them that I was planning on trying to steam out, but to do a 'good job', with the best chance of success you have to remove part of the original finish

Thanks-
Dana

[Rick67]

Get some Minwax antique oil finish.  It's like an oil/varnish blend. Super easy and foolproof to use. Soaks in like oil, so it brings out the grain. Liberally apply, let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes, then wipe it all off with a rag.  If it got too tacky in the meantime to wipe off, you just add a little more, then wipe it off.  Let dry overnight.
 One or two coats is all you need (unless you're trying to fill the grain) and it is very hard.  Satin finish, but you could add more coats if you wanted a little more sheen.
Because you're wiping off all the excess, it's an In-the-wood (not on the wood) finish.
The only other finish I've worked with is Tru-oil, and the Minwax is far superior in every way.

Read about it and it’s quite a rarity and expensive as well 👍

[HPP-Mechanic]

I just finished-up a 1975 Blue Streak last night. It had green industrial paint splattered all over the entire gun. The paint came off the metal parts with my fingernail, but the wood was permanent. The gun didnt build pressure & had a broken bolt, so I wasnt too worried about experimenting on the wood. I wet-sanded the green paint off w/600grit & went over the rest of the wood. I didnt over-do it, but I sanded it completely. I rinsed it & let it dry overnight. I went with Tru-Oil and it turned out pretty good. I rubbed it on w/my fingertips sparingly & let it dry overnight; 3 coats, and 0000 steel wool between coats. Im not happy with the hi-gloss, but I decided to call it done.  I wish Tru-Oil came in a satin sheen... It looks better in person. For some reason, I cant get the pics to post from my phone...

[pipestone]

Frank I redid a couple of 700 series Marlin .22 cal. a 783 & 780 stocks with Tru-oil and had the same results as you...that is they turned out pretty nice and the stuff is easy to work with but a little too shinny. I took one of the synthetic brown pads, like the green and burgundy, white and went over them to tone it down a little, worked well; some use real fine steel wool.


Thanks-
Dana

[19Sheridan57]

   Everyone has their own opinion on what works the best . Rarely do I ever refinish a Sheridan stock. Many of the Sheridans I get have been sitting in a closet, neglected for for decades. The wood does not look bad after a good cleaning. But the wood seems terrible dry, so I will use some " Howard's Feed & Wax ," or something similar. I imagine similar products work just as well.

[JPSAXNC]

I had completely striped a couple of old Sheridan stocks. The factory finish was a light cherry stain with a slightly yellowish clear finish over that, giving the stocks that warm orangish color. After striping and a clear finish, the stocks had the usual brownish walnut color.

[tennx]

I do appreciate the reply's, but Phillip is OG stand for original?
Dana

Yes…

[pipestone]

I'm going to take Phillips wisdom and just keep it original...life's too short 


Thanks for all the input..do appreciate it

[tennx]

I'm going to take Phillips wisdom and just keep it original...life's too short 


Thanks for all the input..do appreciate it

For some reason after several years here… I fell in love with the 100,101 and 102 …restored versions are things of beauty…mine are rebuilt (not by me) and I almost sent them off…for restoration…but like u I chose to leave them alone….something about shooting a 75+ year old gun…I wish they could talk…good luck

[OneDollarBob]

Anyone know what kind of finish they came with?...and what have some of you done for a refinish.

In the past I've used many..many..many..and many coats of Boiled linseed oil over the coarse of months and years to fill the grain, put them back in action during the curing process....like 4-5 years and then went over with a hand rub poly, I didn't do this intentionally, the wait period that is but they turned out real nice. From old guys that knew their stuff, they say you shouldn't apply anything over BLO, that it just doesn't work, but it did for me after such a long wait and cure.

I wonder if you can use tung oil with a shorter wait period to fill with and then use the H R poly? The oils are nice by themselves with the feel and warmth but you can't beat the poly for durability.

Just pondering this evening what approach I want to take and thought I'd throw It out there.

Thanks for your time-

Dana

You can mix them together (1/3 tung oil,  1/3 oil-based Poly, 1/3 mineral spirits ), and they will dry much faster.
2 or 3 coats make a pretty nice-looking and protective finish.