Bruce,If color and light are models for filtering, where some parts of the spectrum are reflected and some absorbed, would the resonance frequency of each expansion chamber in an airgun muffler predict which frequencies would be amplified and which absorbed?
From a musical perspective, a one inch long air tube would have a pretty high resonant frequency, at one atmosphere. Inside a muffler the pressure would start out at several atmosphere, then decay to level still above an atmosphere when the air leaves the front bore. Higher air pressure should raise the resonant frequency. I suspect that for baffle bore lengths of 0.5 to 2" a lot of that will be in the ultrasound range. If I am right, the question is what does that do to the other frequencies?
An expert on AGN forum states that all airgun muffler are doing is converting audible frequencies to inaudible ones, like a dog whistle. I think there are designs where that principle is used and others not. My toroidal baffle design that traps air by spinning it almost certainly shift the vibrations created up in frequency. This, while Weihrauch's large, long three chamber designs offer plenty of expansion volume, and produce a low tone. The latter have "hair curlers" with felt to absorb audible higher frequency sound.
An airgun muffler drops the bulk pressure of the air exiting the barrel muzzle, and blocks, filters and converts sound. Other than contain noise, a muffler generate less sound than the uncorking of a bare muzzle, by dividing one large bang into several smaller ones.
It would be great if you could model what happens inside an airgun muffler to lead to more effective designs that are smaller, lighter and cheaper to produce. They should also not degrade grouping ability, nor shift it excessively from bare muzzle. Sometimes such changes are due to a shift in barrel harmonics and can be restored via velocity tuning. This can happen with any muffler, but is generally worse with long heavy mufflers; so shorter and lighter is less likely to cause harmonic problems. All this assumes the bores are not so tight as to contact the pellet, and that air currents inside the muffler are not going to steer or buffet the projectile to the point of grouping degradation. Usually, the air stripping function of mufflers improves groups, so that is what we like to see. Other than what happens to the air inside a muffler, the outer casing also generates and transmits sound directly to the air. That is a related field of study that is important. Currently, wrapping the casing in something like a foam rubber sleeve is a known method to avoid adding casing noise to air noise. The casing material certainly matters. I was informed that some of my insert designs that were printed in slightly flexible TPU were quieter and had a less sharp sound than the same mufflers printed in PETG.
I am not usually impressed by a muffler producing less than a 10 dB drop, compared to bare muzzle, but that statement should be seen in context. Reducing 120 dB to 110 is relatively easy. A greater than 20 dB drop from bare muzzle is routing with PBs, but they go from eardrum busting to barely hearing safe. So, an impressive drop, but still much louder than considered acceptable for airguns.For backyard friendly airguns, I have seen very few moderators drop below 70 dB, and then the absolute accuracy of measurement comes into question. At such a low dB readings, noise from the trap can easily dominate. So, a drop from 90 to 75 dB seems possible. But 80 to 65 dB seems very unlikely.In other words, while we look at the drop in dB, we should try to define how quiet, is quiet enough. If the reading is between 70 and 80 dB it is probably low enough. Even around 90 dB for the moderated sound, the nature of the sound is often more important. People like to argue numbers, because sound quality is too subjective. Even with only a 4 dB reduction, the nature of the sound can make all the difference:
At the video below; the first muffler on the Huben pistol is only 2.75" long. If I remember correctly, it only offers a 4 dB drop over bare muzzle. But compare the nature of the sound to the bare muzzle at the end of the video. The latter has an echo, with a definite "gunshot" signature, while the short muffler produces a loud, but much more pleasant sound. The second muffler in the video is longer than the first, yet it sounds harsher. I can't explain that, and I designed both mufflers.So, asking for muffler dB or dB reduction specs is actually difficult, because they matter in context with the nature of the sound, to me. Despite many people caring a whole lot about one muffler winning by 2 dB over another. Usually, it is because they are selling the quieter one.I started this thread about muffler bore clearance because I wanted evidence to support what a few of us know already: Making the bore a littler larger loses very little in performance; and it may actually result in a more pleasing sound. Maybe even a little quieter in some cases - as discussed a few posts up. If the terrible loss in performance was real, should we open the baffle bores by 1 mm, then no one would suggest shooting a .117 from a .22 muffler; or a .22 from a .25 muffler. Clearly, that is a very common practice.
From the chart posted, it looks like the moderator was most effective below 5kHz with the upper frequencies relatively unaffected. Not sure what a frequency shift would be. This looks like bandpass.
We've been doing it wrong all along. I just tried a 1/2" copper pipe, and I couldn't even hear the hammer drop!Of course, I'm kidding, I actually appreciate your trying to use established methods and apply them to our audio issue. The closest thing I've dealt with are bass ports on loudspeakers -- "tuned" to allow more bass through than a sealed box would. Not sure that is applicable.I have a question when you say there is no amplification -- because these are only passive devices --- If I blow through a soda straw, it is low amplitude white noise, more or less. If I blow the same into whistle, or a flute, I surely get an amplitude increase in one of the "frequency bins." Overall energy must be conserved, so must be other frequencies getting attenuated as well. Is an unmoving hunk of metal or plastic (the whistle) "active"?
Bruce,I was not very clear with all the dB numbers I offered: The "70 dB" was not relative to anything, it was absolute. So not a reduction of 70 dB, but the loudness of a very quiet muffler equipped airgun report. Was that obtained by standard PB measurement method, 1 meter to the side of the muzzle, 1.5 meter off the ground? Almost certainly not.So, rather than provide dB numbers and then argue about the calibration of the measurement system, it helps to shoot a number of different mufflers side by side, and compare them to each other and the bare muzzle. As I am not the one doing the testing, I cannot control the set-up; only suggest it. Most important to me is avoiding sound levels that saturate the meter, or are too close to its rate full scale capability to be "accurate". So, when I suggest standing the meter off by 5 meters to avoid meter limitations, the absolute readings are going to be a lot lower, than if they were measured at 1 m with a proper meter.I am playing catch-up reading the rest of this thread, so I wanted to clear up the obvious confusion I created above, first.
Perhaps if we could get a spectral plots of the pleasing vs non pleasing moderators AND the un-moderated input, we actually might be able to determine what the differences in transfer function might be.
In my opinion, there is no reason the aperture has to be either uniform, or tapered, it could have a pattern so the transfer function is more pleasing.
Can't imagine there is a frequency shift, it's not an active device.
Ok, you've piqued my curiosity. What you've described is braindead easy to implement. OD 30mmChamber ID 25mm, Chamber length 65mmBore ID 12mmAre the lengths of the bore ahead and behind the chamber important or will any length work? I just used 50 and 50 with overall length 165.Do the chamber ends need to be exactly as shown, flat, perpendicular to the bore? Does the exterior need to be cylindical, or would it work just the same if these cavities were inside a long square block, for instance? My reason for asking is to simplify or overcome 3D printing limitations.