Magnum Airpower Trigger Group for the 362

[Spooner]

Well he said even if the guns was still being made he can't keep the cost ratio worth it, and now sales are way down, so he made the choice to drop them, I was holding out for just the trigger, but after the conversation I decided to go ahead and do it.

The Gen 1 MROD trigger group is also a good option and much cheaper——-well, about half the price to be exact. I have both but prefer the MAP’s hair trigger sensitivity. It also looks elegant unlike the MROD’s somewhat gangly appearance 

The GEN 1 MROD TG attaches to the 3622 w/o mods or spacers despite the substantial difference in radii, so I don’t see any reason why it won’t on a 362.

Ya know Rick... I really enjoy looking at your builds. They are so elegant! 

[Mike71]

That's a shame that he is not making them anymore, but understandable considering the cost. I cannibalized some parts out mine to rework the original 362 trigger but glad I got those parts bought and replaced in the trigger for my 367. Yes, a pricey trigger group to be sure, but glad it found a home on my 367 build. It is a VERY sweet trigger!

It was because of that build thread I looked it up in the first place.. so it's your fault I got one. Haha
I got to drill the one hole to mount the stock correct  ?
Sear adjustment screw I've not looked into as to why it needs it, doesn't it already have pre and over travel adjustment  ?

[Spooner]

That's a shame that he is not making them anymore, but understandable considering the cost. I cannibalized some parts out mine to rework the original 362 trigger but glad I got those parts bought and replaced in the trigger for my 367. Yes, a pricey trigger group to be sure, but glad it found a home on my 367 build. It is a VERY sweet trigger!

It was because of that build thread I looked it up in the first place.. so it's your fault I got one. Haha
I got to drill the one hole to mount the stock correct  ?
Sear adjustment screw I've not looked into as to why it needs it, doesn't it already have pre and over travel adjustment  ?

lol Mike... Glad I could be of service  .

Yes, you will need to locate the front mounting hole then drill and tap it. I do not remember what size the bolt and threads are but I located the hole by lining up the front end of the stock trigger pack side by side with the Magnum.

The sear adjustment screw is purely preference only. You can get an excellent trigger with what is already there. I wanted a very "hair touch trigger" and being able to adjust the sear in tandem with the other two gave me that. The rifles weight with that big scope, and the 24" barrel is very balanced, but having the trigger the way I have it lets me make the shot with no accidental jerking. Purely my preference. 

[Mike71]

You had said it was a 1/4x20 thread in that thread.
I like a good trigger, and sorta light.. #2 is my favorite, tho the one 22lr I have is 1.5#
I don't like anything under 1.5# for me anyways, I like to need to be able to compress the pad of the finger, I felt one a guy had so light I almost couldn't even feel I was touching the trigger before it went off. Not for me.
I've never had a problem pulling or jerking off target, smooth pull is my thing, do snap at times when needed hunting, but I already had my finger on the trigger to start with, I Never slap it, but then again I've never been a real target shooter either.
Only trigger I couldn't get good was a 10-22 and it be safe, sent it off to Brimstone Tactical and seeing what they did I know now how to fix the problem I had, with the safety on, if you pulled the trigger and stop, when the safety was set to fire it would go off. That's a no no.. but they heat up and hammer part of it to pinch out some metal to catch the safety better.
I've done even a H&R break action triggers myself,  only gun I've not messed with is my Beretta 1201fp 12ga auto, but it has an industrial chrome finish on it, and it's like 8#, but that's ok for what it's for.

[Spooner]

You had said it was a 1/4x20 thread in that thread.
I like a good trigger, and sorta light.. #2 is my favorite, tho the one 22lr I have is 1.5#
I don't like anything under 1.5# for me anyways, I like to need to be able to compress the pad of the finger, I felt one a guy had so light I almost couldn't even feel I was touching the trigger before it went off. Not for me.
I've never had a problem pulling or jerking off target, smooth pull is my thing, do snap at times when needed hunting, but I already had my finger on the trigger to start with, I Never slap it, but then again I've never been a real target shooter either.
Only trigger I couldn't get good was a 10-22 and it be safe, sent it off to Brimstone Tactical and seeing what they did I know now how to fix the problem I had, with the safety on, if you pulled the trigger and stop, when the safety was set to fire it would go off. That's a no no.. but they heat up and hammer part of it to pinch out some metal to catch the safety better.
I've done even a H&R break action triggers myself,  only gun I've not messed with is my Beretta 1201fp 12ga auto, but it has an industrial chrome finish on it, and it's like 8#, but that's ok for what it's for.

It's been a while since I have seen this thread. If that is the size I listed, it is correct  .

You would not like my trigger. It is very much like you described. It is not for everyone but great for me. It passes the safety and the bump test so I am comfortable and confident with it.

I have a 10-22 passed down to me by my father. Other than changing the scope rail to a picatinny... it will never be modified. It is very old and will go to my son when I am gone.

[Rick67]

That's a shame that he is not making them anymore, but understandable considering the cost. I cannibalized some parts out mine to rework the original 362 trigger but glad I got those parts bought and replaced in the trigger for my 367. Yes, a pricey trigger group to be sure, but glad it found a home on my 367 build. It is a VERY sweet trigger! I added the sear adjustment screw in front of the trigger guard and made it even sweeter. 

I did not use his custom wider sear though. It was hanging up a little, so I replaced it with a deburred and polished 13xx sear and shimmed it with shim washers for slop. It solved the issue. 

Lol on the builds and gracias 👍

That MAP Super Sear doesn’t work well with Don Cothran’s Roller Trigger (DCRT) either but is a superb match with the Blue Fork 

DCRT + Steve’s Super Sear (now extinct) = muy bien 👍

[Rick67]

Although the MAP Disco TG comes pre-adjusted by the seller, it is pretty easy to fine tune it to suit your preferred trigger pull weight.

Sans stock, I played with the 2 tiny set screws to create a hair trigger that passed the bump test with flying colors.

After that, I removed the hammer spring to see if it would pass the sear drag test—-you know, angle it downwards and let the hammer free flight when the trigger is pulled. I pull it lightly and pull it hard to see if there is any difference.

I’ve had sear drag on some of my builds that is why I always check for sear and hammer engagement.

[Mike71]

I'll polish everything, but still may do the trick of grinding a 90* shelf so it's a cleaner break. Wonder how that would effect trigger pull ?
The 22lr Remington 510 has the same design and not much else could be done with that one, and no aftermarket parts to improve it, that's why I ended up getting rid of it in favor of the Ruger American Rimfire, Timney makes one for that one but I was able to get it to my liking with a ballpoint pen spring and stone work.

[Mike71]

Surprised no one has come up with a better hammer and sear for the Crosman. I only see aftermarket sears but no hammer with a different angle on the engagement point.

[Rick67]

I'll polish everything, but still may do the trick of grinding a 90* shelf so it's a cleaner break. Wonder how that would effect trigger pull ?
The 22lr Remington 510 has the same design and not much else could be done with that one, and no aftermarket parts to improve it, that's why I ended up getting rid of it in favor of the Ruger American Rimfire, Timney makes one for that one but I was able to get it to my liking with a ballpoint pen spring and stone work.

Before playing with it, I did polish the contact points, and deburred/polished the spring and the link/“lower sear” as they are the only OEM parts in the
MAP TG…Oh, there’s the safety button as well 

It’s a very well-built TG 👍

Lastly, I did apply Blue Loctite on the 2 mini set screws after determining their ideal depth.

[Rick67]

You had said it was a 1/4x20 thread in that thread.
I like a good trigger, and sorta light.. #2 is my favorite, tho the one 22lr I have is 1.5#
I don't like anything under 1.5# for me anyways, I like to need to be able to compress the pad of the finger, I felt one a guy had so light I almost couldn't even feel I was touching the trigger before it went off. Not for me.
I've never had a problem pulling or jerking off target, smooth pull is my thing, do snap at times when needed hunting, but I already had my finger on the trigger to start with, I Never slap it, but then again I've never been a real target shooter either.
Only trigger I couldn't get good was a 10-22 and it be safe, sent it off to Brimstone Tactical and seeing what they did I know now how to fix the problem I had, with the safety on, if you pulled the trigger and stop, when the safety was set to fire it would go off. That's a no no.. but they heat up and hammer part of it to pinch out some metal to catch the safety better.
I've done even a H&R break action triggers myself,  only gun I've not messed with is my Beretta 1201fp 12ga auto, but it has an industrial chrome finish on it, and it's like 8#, but that's ok for what it's for.

You’d most probably like the GEN 1 MROD TG..It’s a very predictable 2-stage trigger..I used mine w/o ever polishing or adjusting anything and was pleasantly surprised by its behavior 

I have no idea if Crosman would continue to produce them, reason why I decided to get at least one 👍

[Mike71]

I'm not real big In getting up much of any collection like alot of you guys here, I most likely stick with just the 362, if anything get a 1322 to have a matching pistol, I'll end up selling/trading my 2240 carbine for a 1322.

[Rick67]

I'm not real big In getting up much of any collection like alot of you guys here, I most likely stick with just the 362, if anything get a 1322 to have a matching pistol, I'll end up selling/trading my 2240 carbine for a 1322.

I have less than 10 (here in the US) and I already find it overwhelming and too much a number

[Mike71]

Yeah after so many it's a COLLECTION..

[Rick67]

Speaking of 13xx builds, Wyoman is the Man 👍

I really like the forearm design on this one; a laminate rendition of the Fatty that is no more.

I still have 2 Fatties in the Philippines…So very comfortable to use 🍻

[Rick67]

The above was made by Bella Grips.

They were about $65/set when they came out, and when I decided to get a set they were no more.

That company/maker was very short-lived 

[Mike71]

I had an issue with mine from the get go, after a bit of shooting it started to hang up, took it off and it had flattened the sear edge, contacted him about it with pics and he blamed me for beating on it, I told him no sir, just seems the metal is soft, he went on to tell me it's as hard as the Crosman hammer and he has thousands sold with no problems, especially with that much damage. I bit my tongue and said I can't file on the hammer but can shave off metal from the sear, but maybe I did something wrong as my hammer pin was also beat up pretty bad. Not sure what's going on but I do know it's solf SS.. I ordered another sear, but will trace it out onto some high carbon steel so I can heat treat it.
Hate spending $150 for this and get these results.

[Mike71]

I get the new sear in I'll trace it out over a piece of 1095 carbon steel, get it working and smoothed, then heat treat it , repolish it and should never have a problem with it, this 410 SS is just too soft.
If anyone else wants one let me know, 1/8 thick ground flat to the same thickness as the MAP unit.

[Mike71]

Seems I'm not the only one.

[Rick67]

Did you check if your rear top breech 8-32 screw tip is touching the hammer spring?

That and an overtightened trigger assembly side plate create sear drag….There’s also the hammer pin tube rail —-deburr it….Ah, and an improper breech positioning could also cause binding of the hammer pin.

You have a MAP TG, so the side plate culprit can be discounted.

Your tube is smaller than a 22xx’s, and I believe Bill B/MAP sets up his TG based on the aforesaid’s specs; I’d check out the set screw settings.

Dunno if what I’m saying has anything to do with that sear deformation, but I own 2 or 3 of those sears and they seem very hard, although I haven’t really attempted to do a file test on them.