RWS mod 34 with plastic stock

[pappa]

lizzie,
You understand perfectly. Just don't get overconfident and go too far with the screw in initial stages. Also, don't forget to get a relatively soft tube such as a piece of garden hose or plastic tubing to slip over the barrel where the eye bolt will be pulling on the barrel so that you don't scar up the metal on the barrel. I use a piece of plastic tubing about 6 inches long that is just a tad larger in diameter than the barrel. Also, this is a good place to practice patience. You may put the barrel in and out of the rig 20 or 30 times the first time you do this. Don't let it get to you. You may only have to do this 1 time in your life and you want to get it right (and be darn proud of what you've accomplished). After you think that everything is OK, you put the scope back on the rifle and take a few practice shots and you may discover that you need just a little more work to finesse the job. Keep at it! I have watched you on GTA and I know you can do it!!!

Also, when you cut the upright barrel holders for the V notches, don't cut the uprights to where the wood grain will be upright with the V notches so that when you put pressure on the V's, the uprights don't split.

If you have any serious questions, you can use the messaging facility on GTA and we can exchange emails if you wish.

Also. I priced out a barrel for an RWS 350 at Umarex and it was $175 without the needed extras such as chamber seal, mounting pins/bolts, etc.

[lizzie]

Thanks pappa for all the pointers and advice.
The plastic tubing is a great idea. For the wood grain problem- excellent advice. Do you just turn the nut a turn or two, then let it sit for awhile, then take it out and check it?

[pappa]

Do you just turn the nut a turn or two, then let it sit for awhile, then take it out and check it?

Yes, you've got it.

One last thought; in using a straight edge to determine the bend, mark, with chalk or something that will not leave a permanent mark, the location on the barrel where the deepest part of the bend appears. This is where you should get the closest, if not right on, with the eye bolt when you start to turn the nut. If we were talking about repairing barrel droop, the halfway point is optimum.