My custom mold build...

[darkcharisma]

the loaders looks good, everything looks to be lined up and should work just fine. I haven't try to load any.
 I am thinking of getting resin 3d printers so the prints will be more smooth.


on the crosslides, do you not off set it to the side of the stock any to cut the tangent ogive? By moving the carriage to .195 along the length of the stock, but if you are still centered the stock with the rotating pin "red line". it will cut a round radius, am i correct on this?

[scion19801]

there are two different ways as I understand it.
1. touch the end face of the stock, with the tool at your pre-determined radius and it will turn a ball of that size.
2. touch the tool tip to the side of the stock lightly (with the radius cutter turned parallel with the face of the chuck{90* towards you}), and this will allow you to cut just the semi-sphere on the end of the stock. 
I used number 2 and it turned out as planed for giving my the ogive shape I was after, but I needed to adjust the carriage depth to account for the .27" (half the .514" thickness) thickness of the turning tool. so my above .195" becomes .465" +/-. After the radius was cut I just measured back to the tip from the edge of the radius meets the body and trim the nose if required.
yes the cross-slide does end up with the pivot point well away from the center line of the stock.

to turn a ball you would touch off the face end of the stock on center. adjust or set your zero at that point then move the cross-slide towards you to clear the stock. then as you clear stock off material you slowly work the cross-slide back in to the centerline while making full 180* sweeps of the tool taking off material as you go.

[Greg_E]

The drawings I've been looking at have all shown where the center of the radius should be located, and all of them were away from the stock as described in condition 2 above. Check out some of Bob's drawings as well as some of the NOE drawings.