Refinishing Crosman 622 Stocks

[Ronno6]

Crosman stocks always look so nice.......
I am working on refinishing some buttstocks from model 622 Pelclip repeaters.
Chemical strip followed with 220 grit sanding.

Most are fairly light in color,not much grain.(Some pretty grainy' like red oak.)

I can't get a good, even color using penetrating stain.
Some areas just do not seem to take the stain.

i can't even get a good color....tried lots of stains:
 
Birchwood Casey Walnut
Minwax dark walnut, early American, English chestnut, red oak, mahogany,and pecan
Not much difference among them, except the pecan, which is really light.

i have tried stain on top of other stain....nothing seems to make much difference, and I do not like the color....

Any y'all had any success doing a Crosman buttstock?

I'm gonna try a Minwax Polyshades spray in Antique Walnut.
Maybe that will be more even as it does nor rely on penetration into the wood.

Maybe boiled linseed oil ??

[Ronno6]

After a few attempts on stock #1 I am getting somewhere.
First (after sanding) came 3 applications of Minwax Gel Stain, Antique Walnut I believe,
Than an application of Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Walnut Stain, then
3 applications of Minwax English chestnut stain.
The color has browned out ocnsiderably.
Now, after drying overnite, I'll start with the boiled linseed oil................

It is getting pretty, but now I'm gonna have to match it up with a forearm.......
Could be tricky as I don't know what kind of wood it is.

[Wepster]

On woods like maple which take stain very unevenly folks use a sanding sealer first,
This guy has loads of info all over the net (woodworking sites)
https://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/flexners-ironclad-rules-for-finishing
Used books....
https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?cm_sp=SearchF-_-topnav-_-Results&ds=20&kn=Bob%20flexner&sts=t

[Ronno6]

It appears to me that Crosman uses some sort of one-step stain/finish rather than more conventional penetrating stain and finish.
Their colors are always so even and consistent, and they achieve dark colors on the light, harder layers of the grain.

My attempts to match old Crosman buttstocks with new wood forearms have been only marginally successful at best.
Looks like I will have to remove and refinish the buttstocks to have any hope of pairing with forearms that are close.....

[45WLA]

Guns like Crosman and others in this price point generally use a fairly ordinary wood such as beech, birch, or low grade walnut for stocks. Their finishing methods are usually based on getting a 'decent' finish as cheaply as practical. They probably sprayed your stock with a 'dyed / stained' varnish that was then oven cured [this is strictly a guess]. Matching can be a challenge.
Since you're not trying to rehab an antique, your best bet might be to strip the fore-end and buttstock all the way down, neutralize the stripper, sand a bit and identify the wood. Once you've identified the wood, find a piece to use as a sample and test stain it to see how it works for you. Once you know what you're working with, you can adjust your plans. From your pictures, I'm guessing that your stock is beech, but clean dry beech stains well. The desk my computer is sitting on is beech with a light stain [Minwax] and finished with Minwax wiping poly.
I've had success using oil finishes on gun wood, but I quit using linseed oil about 40 years ago, it doesn't dry well, yellows your  wood, and darkens with age. I moved to tung oil type finishes such as Minwax and Watco. Watco markets a 'stained oil' finish that works fairly well, Home Depot sells Watco. My current preference is Minwax wiping poly [over stain or not], Lowes sells Minwax. The 'store bought' tung oil finishes are a bit shy on the real oils, but will work okay. The finish with the oils will be glossy. The wiping polys come in gloss or satin, I like the satin for gun wood. Some of the wood-working forums will discuss oil finishes, a quick search with the google should provide you with plenty of information. It's simple, few supplies are needed , just be careful with your used rags - they can cause a fire. The instructions on the can will literally guide you through, but extra knowledge is helpful.
Gook luck.
 

[Greg_E]

Boiled linseed and cotton can spontaneously combust... I'd just plan on burning those rags if you use boiled linseed, then it is controlled vs random when you are sleeping.

[45WLA]

Good advice, Greg_E.
Most any cloth soaked with an oil finish material is subject to possible spontaneous combustion. I spread them out and let them dry thoroughly [outdoors] before trashing them. Burning can be a problem where I live, but would be a controlled disposal. These things can be dangerous, BE SAFE.
Other than that, wiped oil finishing is a simple, fairly safe finishing method that yields good results. I haven't used my spray gear in several years.
 

[Ronno6]

Thanks for the tip.
For BLO, I apply with my finger aMy fingers have yet to spontaneously combust, but would have been handy in my smoking days..... (almost 40 years ago...)

[Ronno6]

Although this is not a 622 stock, the lessons learned should carry over.

The first pic shows the buttstock on a Crosman Model 1 I recently purchased

Then, after several oats of Minwax Polyshades Mission Oak spray, it darkened up nicely and showed even color.
Bue, it was a bit off from the forearm that I had to try and match.
So, a light steel wooling and a couple coats of the MW and it looks pretty doggone good IMO...

now I need to make a buttplate.........

[Wepster]

Looks wonderful! very rich color.
Hope your significant other approved the alternate use of a bedspread.

[Ronno6]

Hope your significant other approved the alternate use of a bedspread.

It was all I had to wear when she kicked me out..........