DAR Gen II is now available

[Firewalker]

I agree, its a huge bummer, I have the .22 and 2-.25's and wanted to get the .177 but nothing is available right now. I got a gauntlet instead and if anything, it's teaching me patience.

The DAR's work great, I did all the tuning and the .22 is my day to day work horse.

[Tommyzgunz]

I agree, its a huge bummer, I have the .22 and 2-.25's and wanted to get the .177 but nothing is available right now. I got a gauntlet instead and if anything, it's teaching me patience.

The DAR's work great, I did all the tuning and the .22 is my day to day work horse.

Sent an email asking when they think the .22 may be available. No answer back. I haven't sent another because i just don't bother after that. This is the way i figure things . If i can answer emails so can everyone else.

[soupyyy]

Poor DAR.  I hope they can recover from this.  DAR should consider selling the leaking one for $100...no warranty at this point.

[nervoustrigger]

A couple of weeks ago I got a call from Joe and he indicated they had been working through their inventory of rifles, doing a complete O-ring replacement.  I got the impression they had pulled them from the site until that was completed because he said they would go back up when the work was completed, and I see they are listed again. 

My .22 continues to be my go-to rifle for pests anywhere from chipmunks up to raccoons.  Last weekend I picked it up and drilled a couple of chipmunks at 50 and 57 yards at the neighborhood permission.  I reach for it because it delivers a JSB on point from the very first shot, even if it has been sitting idle for days.

[singleshotcajun]

Glad they are back up for sale and wish them nothing but success. Hopefully parts will be on the menu at some point if needed. Watching and in the future I may add another and recommend them to friends wanting to get into PCP.

[Back_Roads]

 Bummer there were issues with so many of their guns, mine has been stellar since day 1 and has only had a diet od NSA 12.5 gr. slugs.
 Good to see they are making progression refurbing their inventory, a .22 or .25 may be my next.

[Madd Hatter]

What kind of accuracy and power are you getting with them? Thinking of getting a dar in .177 for shooting slugs.

[Back_Roads]

 Shooting them with stock settings, 800 FPS IIR, easy MOA 100 yards, farthest I have done any target work with it to date.

[Firewalker]

What kind of accuracy and power are you getting with them? Thinking of getting a dar in .177 for shooting slugs.

That's my next purchase, a DAR in .177.

[rkrr20307@comcast.net]

Ordered a DAR .177 last night. Received call today and paid for it. Spoke to Joe who I have communicated with several times. He said he went thru all rifles and replaced o rings and resealed poppets. Said everything should be fine with them. They tested them before putting back in stock. Also spoke to him about the other 3 I have and he was nice enough to send me an o ring kit to reseal them. Joe is a great guy to deal with.

[crazyhorse1]

Post warranty for my DAR .22 has been great. What an improvement. Joe has done a good job with these rifles.

[Bob Pratl]

Great to hear. Good customer support keeps customers and creates sales.

[Firewalker]

Ordered a DAR .177 last night. Received call today and paid for it. Spoke to Joe who I have communicated with several times. He said he went thru all rifles and replaced o rings and resealed poppets. Said everything should be fine with them. They tested them before putting back in stock. Also spoke to him about the other 3 I have and he was nice enough to send me an o ring kit to reseal them. Joe is a great guy to deal with.

I'll be posting my Gauntlet after tuning it up and will join you with a .177 DAR.

[avator]

I swapped my DAR .25 for a .25 Evanix Air Speed. I really did like the DAR but so far, I have no regrets.
The AS had a few issues but nothing I couldn't overcome.

[Dan H]

I shot my .25 DAR yesterday  .... for just 300 bucks what more could you ask for ?   glad to hear Joe has the guns fixed ,and up for sale again I will have to call him and get a set of o rings for each gun if possible ...

[Booder98]

I am sorely tempted to get the .177, it's inexpensive so my wife doesn't beat me, and it's a nice-looking gun.  If the website had a credit card processing page, I'd have bought it a couple of nights ago.

[dverna]

Guys,

I am very new to PCP's.  Bought a DAR .22 a few weeks ago and I am very pleased with it except for the trigger...it is not good...lots of creep.

Anyway, read the entire thread,   At times I regretted buying this gun but it looks like the company is addressing issues so keeping my fingers crossed.

Just to share some info.   I have fired 41 5 shot groups at 25 yards and am averaging under .5" with the cheapo Crosman doomed 14.3's.  I am OK with that.  For a lark, I shot a 5 shot group at 50 yards with JSB 15.89's and got .40".   I have been unable to shoot since then so cannot verify if it was a fluke.    BTW, I was topping up the gun after every 20 shots but I went 40 shots one time without affecting 25 yard accuracy.  I may just air up after 30 shots to be safe. 

My needs are 1" at 50 yards so I think I should be fine.   So for $300, I am happy as long as I do not get the leaks many of you have struggled with. 

Now to my question.  I would like to improve the trigger.   I saw that one option is to grease it and that is what I will try first.  But it is so bad I doubt it will get me where I want to be.

If I want to polish up the trigger, do I need to degas the gun?   After reading about the issues with doing that, I am not going there.  Sorry if it is a stupid question but I am ignorant about PCP's and fooling with a 2-300o psi "bomb" has me jittery. 

TIA for any advice. 

[nervoustrigger]

No need to depressurize before removing the trigger components.  Nothing associated with them is seeing any high pressure.
 
Everything pressurized is part of the air tube assembly.  The air tube is a modular assembly that also houses the valve.  If you want, you can completely remove it and set it aside while you do your work.
 
Personally I wouldn’t (I didn’t) but feel free to do so if it aids your confidence.

[Firewalker]

Don, the entire air tube assembly can be removed from the gun without depressurizing it and it remains in a safe condition throughout. That said, you can remove the trigger assembly and work on it without fear, however, I would not do so because you have to take it off safe in order to work on the trigger.

My favorite method is to remove the barrel band, remove the shroud, remove the barrel, then remove the air tube assembly. This gives you access to the rest of the gun with no fear of stored energy.

The trigger is easily disassembled and easily polished and easily reassembled as long as you have a vice that you can pad are use plastic vise jaws, good punches and hammer.

I am doing some adjustments to one of my .25 air rifles this weekend, I can take pictures and walk you through the air tube removal to show you how safe it is to do so.

My triggers are breaking between 1-1/2 and 2- 1/2 pounds depending on the gun. They are smooth and not Gravely, you can also shorten them up quite a bit but you may need a little threadlocker to keep that 1 mm socket grub screw from backing out.

[Gertrude]

No need to depressurize before removing the trigger components.  Nothing associated with them is seeing any high pressure.
 
Everything pressurized is part of the air tube assembly.  The air tube is a modular assembly that also houses the valve.  If you want, you can completely remove it and set it aside while you do your work.
 
Personally I wouldn’t (I didn’t) but feel free to do so if it aids your confidence.

Jason is absolutely correct. Just make sure the gun is not loaded before you start the work.
I doubt you will see any significant gains from a lube only. This is due to some of the problem  is with the sear engagement, which is not accessible without disassembly.
The trigger can be GREATLY improved with a polish and lube. (I have done several of them).
They generally  come from the factory with a very gritty 4.5 to 5lb "dry" pull.
To properly do the work, you need to remove 3 pins. These are,
The trigger pivot pin,
The pin just forward of the trigger,
And the sear pivot pin.

Use a magnifying glass to determine which side of the pins are splines. Drive out th pins from the non-splined side... (meaning, do not drive the splines through  the trigger group).
Be careful to NOT OVER STRETCH the trigger or sear springs, as you remove the springs from the trigger blade and sear.

Next, remove the cocking pin in the bottom of the hammer that is held in place with a single hex screw at the rear of the hammer.
 (Take note of its orientation before removal).

Now polish the metal to metal surfaces (in the direction of motion). I like to go to a 2000 grit and then buff to shine.

Do Not round off any edges. And remove any burrs or "record grooves" in the surfaces.
Polish the cocking pin working surfaces in the same manner.

Sometimes  the cocking pins have had a tendency  to come loose, due to the hex screw is only holding them on the flat surface.
You should see a witness mark on the flat surface from the hex screw.

I eliminate the slipping problem by using a dremmel with a round tip bit, and creating a "divot" at the witness mark. This creates a "shallow" for the hex screw to nest in.
Put SMALL DAB of moly on the working surfaces of the pin and a SMALL DAD or BLUE loctite on the upper end of the pin upon installation . Tighten the hew screw while feeling it nest into the shallow you created with the dremmel.

Lube the trigger components working surfaces with a small dab of moly and reassemble.
Again, being careful to NOT OVER STRETCH the springs.

The results should be a VERY CLEAN and Crisp, Very predictable break at approx 2 to 2.5 lbs.

Hope this helps.