Just for reference, the reg orings are metric. The larger of the two is 4x2mm. For the small one, I’d recommend using a 005. It’s the closest you’ll be able to find to the factory size.
Robert, thanks, very useful information. Where you having problems or did you just want to see how it functions?
Indeed the sealing surfaces of the regulators SEAT control how stable the set point is. Accuracy here in making sure surfaces are VERY smooth, Flat and Parallel to one another is key !!If the spool does not spin perfectly true ? then the seat surface is not staying centered to it mating half. Again accuracy here is paramount.Having serviced, modified and tweaked on 100's of regulators this comes as fact not opinion.Scott S
Very good play-by-play. I like that you're dealing with the valve seat to address creep, particularly since this design is more challenging than most. On another forum there are a lot of topics about creep, and for months and months I've been trying to educate people on how to deal with it but apparently the idea is about as appealing as picking up a dirty diaper. No telling how many OEM regulators have been replaced with an aftermarket one for this reason.Regarding getting small 90D O-rings installed, it helps to add a little heat from a hair dryer or soak it in hot water. The -008 on the end of a Ninja reg is a particularly fun one due to the raised lip it has to pass over. Turns out an ink pen body works nicely to press down on it with a lot of force without risking damaging it. In other places I sometimes end up making a small tool if I can’t improvise something.
It still has a very very slow leak from the set screw probably because o-ring is just mashed up so I'm going use lathe to cut a recess to fit an o-ring at end of set screw.
FWIW, I have been using 70D orings on the few avenger regs I have resealed with no issues thus far.
Quote from: n4spd on August 20, 2020, 03:54:07 AMIt still has a very very slow leak from the set screw probably because o-ring is just mashed up so I'm going use lathe to cut a recess to fit an o-ring at end of set screw.I believe mine has this problem also. Happened after I adjusted the reg. Have you thought about using a spacer ring to keep from squashing the o-ring and keeping it in place?
Sorta like that... I just punched out a round disc from an old used bike tube and dropped it down there. Much better than squishing an o-ring. The set screw has a flat/flush end so works out well. De-gas still works.[quote author=n4spd link=topic=177140.msg156006105#msg156006105 date=1597906447Thanks for the tip.Keith
Why did you have to reseal those avengers?Quote from: Tpatner412 on August 20, 2020, 10:41:09 PMFWIW, I have been using 70D orings on the few avenger regs I have resealed with no issues thus far.
replaced the seals and seat, and it has been all good since.
How did you replace that seat, since it's recessed?I contacted Air Venturi and they insisted that it can NOT EVER leak from the delrin seal in the regulator!They were/are of no help so far.RobertQuote from: Tpatner412 on August 24, 2020, 10:25:46 AMreplaced the seals and seat, and it has been all good since.
I don’t have an Avenger but usually there is a through hole to the seat so you can punch it out from behind. BTW supposedly the manual says to evacuate the reservoir before adjusting the regulator. Generally it’s okay to increase a regulator’s setpoint while under pressure because you are backing the seat away from the piston and allowing it to bring up the plenum pressure in a normal manner. However, attempting to lower the setpoint while pressurized drives the seat into the piston and may damage it, causing inconsistent regulation and creep. I just wanted to mention it as a reminder to those referencing this thread.