Yong Heng compressor ... I just bought 1 ...

[tracker1955]

What I gathered when I first came across this on eBay was that the Nuvair is meant for breathing air compressors and the Mobil 827 is not. Since we are not breathing the air from our compressors I don't think it matters a great deal which one you pick, either is gonna be better than your run of the mill compressor oil, and a far sight better than #46 hydraulic fluid. Pick your poison and what you can afford. I searched the web the day I spotted this and couldn't find the Mobil available in smaller than 5-gallon quantity. I'm sure there's some markup for the eBay seller but even at $20 per oil change for the convenience of not buying a huge quantity, and let's say 20 hours or more between oil changes, in my book it might be worth it.

[Blue]

Link to buy Nuvair 751 Diester oil : ....

https://www.nuvair.com/nuvair-751.html

When I ordered through Nuvair, shipping was between $20-23 and quarts were around $20 and gallons around $60.  I ordered a quart to try on the next couple oil changes. I figured it was just slightly cheaper than the Mobil product which I think I found on Amazon for around $80 per gallon with over $20 shipping.

I figured if the Nuvair 751 got the blessing of the board I’d order the gallon next time.

[Dan H]

Ok so just to clear it up for me.  Is there a better or best in this choice, or would either be equivalent? In other words, is Mobil rarus 827 better than Nuvair 751, are they equal, should Nuvair 751 NOT be used?

I’m getting ready to use up the last of my Royal Purple and plan on changing it out again when I get the quart of Nuvair 751 that I just ordered.

751 is good to go , it has the specs to do the job , smart move to change out the royal purple that is only rated for low pressure compressor's ...

[Blue]

751 is good to go , it has the specs to do the job , smart move to change out the royal purple that is only rated for low pressure compressor's ...

Thanks for both the reply and the research Dan.

Maybe the prices will change by the time I need more but they’re both within about $20 of each other in the gallon size so it’s just good to know there’s a little bit of a choice.

[Randy00]

more to read ....

SYNTHETIC DIESTER OILS ;

They’re specifically designed to give equipment high-quality protection, even when it’s operating in conditions where standard mineral-oil products do not meet expectations. Compared to mineral oils, synthetic diester oil greatly reduces fire hazards and the potential for explosion. Also, due to its higher ignition temperature, it will greatly improve overall safety and performance. Diester oils are commonly recommended and approved by a variety of large compressor manufacturing companies.
We provide a variety of synthetic diester oils that can be used for all types of reciprocating compressors, both new and older models, and for applications for rotary vanes and screws.
There are many general uses that all grades of diester oil can fulfill:
It stays in a fluid state in low-temperature settings.
The operating temperature can remain low due to its high-quality thermal conductivity.
It has a roughly 20% lower friction coefficient.
It’s very stabile in high-temperature settings and won’t disassociate from stress.
It won’t shear during extreme stress or while it’s subjected to heavy loads due to its high mechanical stress resistance.
It’s better for metal wetting due to its overall reduction in metal to metal wear-polar properties.
It has better rust and corrosion resistance due to its high-quality demulsibility characteristics, so moisture will separate readily.
It’s also much more energy efficient.
Diester oil is specifically designed to be used as a cylinder lubricant in a crankcase and can be used with virtually all types of elastomers that are commonly used in pumps and compressors, including crankcase paint.

Finally got the Chemlube 751 into the machine today. Wow I'm a convert for sure. The sound (not sure why) immediately got much quieter than before. Less vibration for some reason. Doesn't seem like vibration would be one of the things this would affect but there it is. No more RP in this machine. Thanks to Dan and others for all the input. I got a quart from bargain marge BTW.   

[tracker1955]

Glad you're up and running again Randy.

[OleTomCat]

more to read ....

SYNTHETIC DIESTER OILS ;

They’re specifically designed to give equipment high-quality protection, even when it’s operating in conditions where standard mineral-oil products do not meet expectations. Compared to mineral oils, synthetic diester oil greatly reduces fire hazards and the potential for explosion. Also, due to its higher ignition temperature, it will greatly improve overall safety and performance. Diester oils are commonly recommended and approved by a variety of large compressor manufacturing companies.
We provide a variety of synthetic diester oils that can be used for all types of reciprocating compressors, both new and older models, and for applications for rotary vanes and screws.
There are many general uses that all grades of diester oil can fulfill:
It stays in a fluid state in low-temperature settings.
The operating temperature can remain low due to its high-quality thermal conductivity.
It has a roughly 20% lower friction coefficient.
It’s very stabile in high-temperature settings and won’t disassociate from stress.
It won’t shear during extreme stress or while it’s subjected to heavy loads due to its high mechanical stress resistance.
It’s better for metal wetting due to its overall reduction in metal to metal wear-polar properties.
It has better rust and corrosion resistance due to its high-quality demulsibility characteristics, so moisture will separate readily.
It’s also much more energy efficient.
Diester oil is specifically designed to be used as a cylinder lubricant in a crankcase and can be used with virtually all types of elastomers that are commonly used in pumps and compressors, including crankcase paint.

Finally got the Chemlube 751 into the machine today. Wow I'm a convert for sure. The sound (not sure why) immediately got much quieter than before. Less vibration for some reason. Doesn't seem like vibration would be one of the things this would affect but there it is. No more RP in this machine. Thanks to Dan and others for all the input. I got a quart from bargain marge BTW.

What oil were you using?

[Randy00]

What oil were you using?
[/quote]
I was using Royal Purple Synfilm recip 100..

[Scott_Tx]

when I get my yong heng compressor I'm going to put dollar store 10w30 in it just to drive people nuts.

[Randy00]

when I get my yong heng compressor I'm going to put dollar store 10w30 in it just to drive people nuts.

That will surely work. For me? I don't care one way or the other, but I love me some interesting internal damage pics!  (If what everyone says is true) I know mine quieted down a lot from the RP...

[Scott_Tx]

I kid but it is fun to trigger the OCDs. I'll prob order mine next month when I have the money.

[KnifeMaker]

when I get my yong heng compressor I'm going to put dollar store 10w30 in it just to drive people nuts.

There's one in every crowd.


It is not the internal damage that is the first thing you will notice with inappropriate oils. It is the deposits on the reed valves. They will varnish and coke and pressure will not be able to build to full pressure. It can happen rather quickly. With the AV oil, it happened in mine within 4 or 5 fills. Royal Purple will take longer as it has a higher flash point, but it will still happen.


All you have to do is tear it down and remove the char. However, wit proper hp compressor oils, this does not happen.
the much longer run cycles is where the problem in wear is caused in compressors using improper oils. the pump struggles to reach full fill pressures, so users ten to run longer. Greatly increasing the wear on the pump.


In addition, motor oil is designed to carry contaminates in the oil to an oil filter. It is how it is designed and it works. Ture compressor oil is designed to let the contamination particulate out of the oil, and not be cycled thru the internals. It will collect on the bottom of the crankj case. Again, much reduced wear.


For those who can easily afford to damage their compressors with improper oils, why not spend the spare cash on a better compressor in the first place. Buy quality once, cry once. Buy low quality and cry forever. Or as my daddy use to say, there are just folks out there that just flat don't give a dayum. He never had much use for such folks.


Personally I don't care what they do as lont as they don't touch my equipment. But apparently many do care or we wouldn't keep seeing this topic pop up seemingly every week. For Years!!!  P.S. Knew ya was josh'n. Just having a little fun.   

Knife

[Dan H]

when I get my yong heng compressor I'm going to put dollar store 10w30 in it just to drive people nuts.

Translated =  I am going to destroy my compressor with the wrong oil ! ...  LOL !   

[mwgm2020]

I was too quick.  I found Mobil Rarus 427, Compressor, 1 gal., ISO 100, SAE Grade 30 for $23.33.

But just realized you guys were talking about Rarus 827.  (Sound of hand slapping forehead)

[Fate]

IMHO, people are stressing too much on something undeserving such concern. It's a basic tool, not an heirloom. A hammer, not a fine micrometer. Used within the scope of its design and attention to its basic needs, the difference between when it finally fails under those conditions and one micro-managed by a team of fanatics won't amount to a hill of beans when the bottom line is tallied.

If one's nature has equipped them with upper level guns, with a commensurate attention to their futures, a YH won't be the HPA accessory of choice. It'll be one deserving of that owner's meticulous care.

But for me with my entry level Synrod, the YH has been an excellent choice. I did my research for months before I began and have realistic expectations for my situation. I've met and exceeded them. And while all is ducky as I fill out my first year on the Darkside the inevitable is being prepared for in the interim.

I'm not using super whompadyne oil in my YH, but it's far better than what was recommended when I got it. Other than the first fill that I replaced after the first month, all subsequent use, i.e., refilling my gun one to six times a day for the past six months, the fluid's level and opacity has never varied. It's still a pleasant transparent red like it began. I've never had a smell. There is no oil in my filters. The sound never changes, the fills are consistent, smooth, and reliably accurate... taking less than a minute for a 19-3.3k fill. My HPA tool is working fine and there is no indication that's going to change. But it will: Stuff happens.

When it does happen to fail I won't blame it on my compressor oil choice... even though it's not on anyone's list heretofore mentioned, but mine. Ya do your best and take what you get. Then move on. Spend your stress allotment on the realities of your life, not your imagination's.  

[avator]

I changed the oil in my Vevor this morning.... I used the AV AirVenturi oil that recommended for the AV twin cylinder 4500 compressor sold by PA.
It may be my imagination but, both the Vevor and the MKII seem to run smoother. The Vevor took the same 10.5 oz. to fill to the top of the red dot in the sight glass as the MKII. I kinda like the clear color of the oil. It makes it easy to determine the condition of the oil by way of color change.
The oil I replaced was 5wt non detergent (as recommended by MRodAir). Both compressors ran well on that for a couple years. (normal use). It appeared the same dark color as when I put it in and didn't have any burnt smell to it.

[Keithy]

I have of recent been running mine off and on.I'm using Chemlube 751. I don't run it to hard(I don't think I do anyway), I have change oil 3 times. From the getgo I've been pulling the drain plug and when it slows to a slow drip, I go ahead and pull the cover off. There is usaually some fines in the bottom of the case with some oil that did'nt come out,but not much .I use paper towel to wipe it clean,and what I can off the lower end of the rod,the gasket an the cover. It's really not difficult and makes me feel a little better. I never have smelled anything, or noticed excessive vibes,other than not being able to read the gauge clearly when its running. The 751 is costly but somethings telling me it's worth it.

[Fate]

I have of recent been running mine off and on.I'm using Chemlube 751. I don't run it to hard(I don't think I do anyway), I have change oil 3 times. From the getgo I've been pulling the drain plug and when it slows to a slow drip, I go ahead and pull the cover off. There is usaually some fines in the bottom of the case with some oil that did'nt come out,but not much .I use paper towel to wipe it clean,and what I can off the lower end of the rod,the gasket an the cover. It's really not difficult and makes me feel a little better. I never have smelled anything, or noticed excessive vibes,other than not being able to read the gauge clearly when its running. The 751 is costly but somethings telling me it's worth it.

Keith, I had the same frustration with the gauge. I mostly solved it with a couple of pieces of pipe insulation... one piece jammed underneath and one between the gauge and the side of the gauge in the nook to its left. Dampened the needle enough to let me choose the psi I want within a few psi.

HTH

[tracker1955]

Although the compressor itself holds up very well, it's a known fact that the cheap pressure gauges do not, mine blew the rubber plug out of the side the first year I had it. Have read many other reports of the same issue. Aliexpress has the gauges for sale for as little as $6.00 but I chose to replace mine with a good quality glycerine-filled one, and it has been on for over two years now without a problem. Just be aware that the gauge is a weak spot in the overall setup.

[avator]

I took one out of a hand pump and put on my Vevor.... works great.