Sheridan: I'm stumped

[johnnyfoos]

OK, I'm working on my-
Sheridan BS
It is a 1985 by what Crosman lists
or
Is a 1986 by what Tim lists
But that means nothing to me anyway,   {has drilled holes for peep sights}

What I need help on is the
"Keyed Rivit"
that holds the lever link to the pump arm.

HOW do you get it apart or out ?
I've hit it fairly hard and it isn't moving.

I'm trying to get it shooting again
using a kit from Tim.

My luck seems to have run out on this one,
It was a lucky one when I got it cheap because it didn't pump up.
But when I was taking the stock off it to ship it to Tim
I pumped it for some reason and it felt like it was pumping up.
So I quickly put the stock back on and was like, now where did I put those .20's I bought.
It shot GREAT, and I shot it for a couple of years and was loving the ".20" power and
I really like the sights on it, just a Great Gun all around
Very NICE Wood also.
But it stopped pumping one day and I ordered a Kit from Tim while getting
A kit for a S&W I was fixing for a friend.
Then I was ordering a kit for a 317 for somebody else a few months later and
I saw the tool was cheap with a kit so I got the tool for myself.
Let that guy use the tool for his repair.
But when I got it back I couldn't find the Sheridan kit. [%$#@!@#$%^]
About a year later I find the kit,
But where did I put that tool, ??   {$@$##@#^&}
Well a couple months ago I found them both
Together in the same box, ?
Anyway I'm trying to fix it now so I need help !!!

[bantam5s]

I don't know, but if the rivet isn't bad you don't necessarily have to replace it.
I know how to get a new one on as I used the keyed rivet that came with the kit for my '79 on an 82 Benji 342 that was missing one, but taking one off I have no clue about.

I say only replace it if the original is bad or really worn.

[johnnyfoos]

bantam5s-  Thank you for the reply
I don't see how you would get the piston out of the tube without removing it.
But, yea it isn't bad but I'm trying to replace the pump cup.
So, here I sit still stuck!

 

[Big Bore Bart]

   You don't remove the rivet.  Remove the two roll pins in the pump tube end cap and the whole shebang comes out the front.

[johnnyfoos]

" Remove the two roll pins in the pump tube end cap and the whole shebang comes out the front."

I have the end cap out/off. BUT the lever link can't get past the end of the pump tube being that the slot isn't all the way to the end , there is a metal strip at the end of the slot .
unless there is a way to get the lever link pin out ??

[RBQChicken]

you line the lever link pin up with the rearmost hole and tap it out with a punch.  Loose fitting so it comes out easy.  Then you slide everything out.

[bantam5s]

you line the lever link pin up with the rearmost hole and tap it out with a punch.  Loose fitting so it comes out easy.  Then you slide everything out.

What he said, there's a loose fitting pin to take out.
Iirc mine fell out when it lined up with one of the pin holes but you'll probably need to push it out.

[johnnyfoos]

"you line the lever link pin up with the rearmost hole and tap it out with a punch.  Loose fitting so it comes out easy.  Then you slide everything out"

YEA- That was the clue I needed !   
THANK YOU ALL
for making this not so bad to try and fix.
 
Now just cleaning the tube up
 and I'll have to make a felt ring pack for behind the piston cup
this one has nothing there to hold oil, ?
I've got a few ideas for this.

 A question about one part in the kit-
This tiny little O ring , about the size of that "O",  ?

I haven't had a solder in valve out of anything yet.
This gun was just doing the one pump only thing
and the piston cup was getting weak.
I think exhaust side of valve is still good.

Again-

THANK YOU !!!

[Eyerelief]

The tiny o ring goes on the bolt behind the probe.

[RBQChicken]

You don't need a felt ring behind the piston cup.

[johnnyfoos]

   "don't need a felt ring behind the piston cup."
Maybe not BUT,-
Having one there would only be better.
Kind of like the paint over spray all over the air tubes insides.
It didn't need to get polished off and made shiny. And the burr's
on the pin holes didn't have to get polished out .

BUT ,  on mine they did get the "Hand Fitted", treatment.

Still building a couple of dowel brushes to finish cleaning up the air tube inner most area.
 Getting a toothbrush cut in half then bending around the dowel end isn't easy.
But, I'm getting it.

Thanks

[19Sheridan57]

Just to let you know .
  I have several Sheridans that lasted over 50 years before needing any repairs ! Proper maintenance was all it took .
  If you think a foam wiper will help, go ahead & add one .

[johnnyfoos]

Well,
 Done cleaning the AirTube.
After building a few NEW TOOLs
For helping with airgun repair/cleaning
Having a good selection of dowels with different
 Cleaning things on the ends is a lot of help.

I've got it to the point I can see the top of the valve
So good I see the raised and lower areas,  (around the outer edge past the cone)
 that must have been machined into it
 before it was soldered in place.
I'm going to put the front end back together with the NEW Piston Cup.
And then test for pump up.
Then go from there.

THANKS

[johnnyfoos]

I finally got around to fixing my C yesterday, 

 i was to worried about how hard it was to do-
And it was very easy to replace the seals
Using the Mac 1 kit and tool.
Not even close to how hard a Crosman Model One is to do.

My Sheridan C
Had a Very messed up intake seal,
exhaust was also very worn out.
And was painted Black on the backside,  ?
The two, (2) brass washers between the springs also were painted black
on both sides, as well as the exhaust poppet holder thingy on both sides also
The intake front spring also was black painted, (and Brass not steel)
 but not the rear spring or the hammer spring or hammer. 
wasn't to hard to polish the paint off, on the flat area's that is
The rounded spots took more effort.
The back end of the air tube was also black over sprayed,
not as bad as the front was .
Looked like the internal parts were painted on purpose not over spray,  ?
like the front end of the tube the back and parts now shine well !

Didn't use the bolt seal or rear seal between the valve nut and poppet holder,
reused the lead one there, it was in great shape.
The front seal was broken.

The valve nut seemed very loose to me just about finger tight only,   
I only used a pin in the tool about 2" out each side so maybe
I didn't crank it down to much but more than it was.

Anyway it holds air now and clears all 8 pumps, or 10 as I like it to have.
I'm tall and have long arms so it seams easy for me to pump a few extra
in my pumpers.(NOT the Rebel, 8 is hard for that one)
My Ben 392 is a bit more effort than the Sheridan, maybe.
The Model One is more effort it felt like, (half sized valve there)

I'll get some chrony's out soon and get #'s for all my pumpers
The working ones,
 you know how there is always another one
that stops just because you get one going.
In my world that that is the normal, well
not like that but there is a few that stopped last year
and I am falling WAY behind. 
Got to find more than 25 hours in each Day
And that extra Day this month isn't going to help as much as is needed for my
Air Arms inventory.
And I've been shooting less with the rifles last couple years.   
Even my three P-17's are acting soft any more, so less pellet use there.
But did get My Buckmark found and tuned a bit last fall,
And that one is a pellet eating machine,
just can't pull the trigger without then cocking it so fast I
don't have time to tell myself to STOP, and put it down.

The sickness is strong around these parts !