Hey Fang, Yoda or anyone....... ,Will Slotting the skirt of a HW95 piston to fit an R10 (essentially cutting the base in half) take away too much strength from the piston, rendering it non-functional? Any insights are appreciated .Kirk
Hey Guys,Was able to clamp the HW95 piston on its ends, in my large, drill press vise and drill with 1/4" and 1/2" Bosch "Tough Steel" drills (Home Depot). The two drill cost me about $16 and were not intended for use in a drill press . Started out using the 1/4" bit taking it very slow and just broke through the piston in 4 separate holes to makeup the slot. Then moved on to the 1/2" which was kinda "shaky". Cleaned up with a diamond tipped, Dremal tool and the slot looks like it will work just fine. If anything, the slot is too big, which will never hit anything.Removed metal piston liner first and noticed it was rusted pretty badly. This is the second gun that has come with a rusted piston sleeve. My HW35E stainless piston sleeve was rusted so badly it almost started rusting the gun's compression chamber .
"If anything, the slot is too big, which will never hit anything."Good work making the slot! I do wonder if making the slot "extra wide" will create some issues because most of the pressure on the cocking shoe slot is at the skirt when cocking. The "extra wide slot" does limit the piston skirt contact with the receiver tube ID which MAY accelerate wear if there is too much slop between the piston and receiver ID. The reason I mention this is because the "ends of the ears" on each side of the piston skirt slot of my R10 were "polished" by the action of 10s of thousands of cocking cycles over the years I had the R10. Keep the area well lubed and check it out on occasion for "receiver tube wear".
A slight radius on the ends of the ears of your slot may forestall any 'digging in' .
Kirk,I love your projects! Sometimes I think, why??Other times I think why not!!-Y