Author Topic: The Diana LP 8 … why not? (Read 5932 times))

WyoMan · « **on:** August 08, 2018, 09:41:08 PM »

Someone recommended this pistol a while back so I finally decided to give it a go.

It has a very solid feel... all metal except the grip panels. And although some may not care for its nontraditional look, it does balance very well.

The first thing I did was clean the barrel and push a few pellets down the bore. The pellets went thru the breech block smoothly, hit a small snag about halfway down, and then hit the choke about an inch from the end. I wasn’t expecting a choked barrel. So the snag in the middle may not be a problem... and sometimes they’ll just smooth out with enough shooting.

The cocking effort was pretty easy using the cocking assist lever. It’s doable without the assist but the front sight becomes a problem. The first few cocking cycles were somewhat gritty and rough but it's starting to get quieter and smoother.

The lockup is very nice... very solid and precise. It snaps into place with a strong thud. It doesn't sound or feel like a metal on metal contact - more like the breech gasket compressing against the bulkhead.

The trigger breaks cleanly after a somewhat long and gritty second stage. The first stage is light and smooth but is actually pre-travel (travel before the sear engagement). The trigger has a single contact point which is basically just a modified screw. It can be adjusted in or out to lengthen or shorten the first stage (pre-travel).

A look inside:

The end of the screw is profiled and has a rounded contact point. The insert just to the right of the screw (I’m assuming) is a thread lock. When I pulled off the left side frame, about half of the pins and components came off with the left side. And of course they fell and scattered on the bench. I locked the pins to the right side and reassembled... and then took the above picture.

The shot cycle was pretty good right out of the box. No twang, buzz or dieseling. The recoil is noticeable but seems to be straight back... no perceived twisting or double recoil.
After about 30 shots to give it a chance to settle in, I ran some over the chrony...

The average was 475 fps with an ES of 8... that’s not bad at this elevation. I’m pretty satisfied so far and if the accuracy is there, this will be one of my favorites... but a lot more shooting is next

.....

Wyo

Yogi · « **Reply #1 on:** August 08, 2018, 11:24:56 PM »

I love mine!

I hunt birds out to 20 yards with it. If you rotate your shoulder to lock your elbow it can be shot one handed.
I have a set of grips from-http://www.galbraithbrothers.com
Check them out.
Mine loves the H&N Sniper mediums.

I find the safety easy and natural to use too.

-Yogi

WyoMan · « **Reply #2 on:** August 09, 2018, 09:30:31 PM »

The grips sound like a terrific idea, Yogi

Then I grabbed a jackhammer-proof scope and lug-nutted it on:

Getting ¾” to 1” groups (rested) at 10m right now... and I think it has the potential to do better as it will put 3 or 4 in the same hole from time to time. So it’s a promising start...
I don’t have a problem with the auto-safety either. It’s easy enough to flick down with your finger or thumb.

Wyo

pops76 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 10, 2018, 09:14:03 PM »

Those grips are great. makes a world of difference. I did some trigger work on mine and it is much better. Smooth and light. Takes a little work to get it done but is worth it in my opinion. Mine chrono # for the jsb 8.4 is 498 with a spread of 4.3 on 10 shots and a SD of 2.57.
That was a year or so ago but haven't shot it much since. I show a 1" group @ 20 yds with a red dot sight. Love it.

WyoMan · « **Reply #4 on:** August 10, 2018, 10:51:08 PM »

Thanks, pops. I’d love to hear about your trigger work. Here’s a brief update on my progress...

Accuracy is getting better… actually, a lot better. I replaced the oem sight / brake with a modified Cothran brake. The original brake extends a couple inches beyond the muzzle and is not vented. I get why it’s there – an extra couple inches of leverage for cocking. I wonder if it creates a turbulent wind tunnel though…? Anyway, I had no need for the front sight and the new brake shortens the oal by an inch:

The Cothran brake had to be drilled to .505” to fit over the barrel. That also required parting off some of the tapered end (where the o.d. was about .555”).
With this brake, there is no need for the cocking assist (it wouldn’t work anyway). You just grab the brake and pull. No front sight to dig into your hand. It is really quite easy to cock.

3 ten-shot groups from 10m with the new brake installed:

It is shooting better than my tuned HW45... at about half the cost.
Other things of note: The cocking cycle has really smoothed out. The trigger is getting a little bit better. No real change in the shot cycle yet. And... I’m really happy with this pistol.

Wyo

Yogi · « **Reply #5 on:** August 11, 2018, 11:05:13 AM »

Nice work, both of you!

I find it easy to cock without the cocking aid, just a short down snap.

Did either of you change the piston seal?

Thanks,

Yogi

cobalt327 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 11, 2018, 02:15:51 PM »

Looks like it wouldn't be hard to make the safety manual, if I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing.

WyoMan · « **Reply #7 on:** August 11, 2018, 09:36:07 PM »

I think you're seeing it right, Mark. In the photo above, the safety is in the firing position. The cocking cycle is what flips the safety into the "safe" position... the cocking arm will catch the tab on the top of the safety crossbar, and turn it CW as it slides over.

To disable the "auto" feature (but still have it work manually) you could cut a flat on top of the crossbar so the cocking arm would slide over, but not engage.

Wyo

WyoMan · « **Reply #8 on:** August 11, 2018, 09:44:10 PM »

Quote from: Yogi on August 11, 2018, 11:05:13 AM

Nice work, both of you!

I find it easy to cock without the cocking aid, just a short down snap.

Did either of you change the piston seal?

Thanks,

Yogi

Thanks, Yogi.
I took the piston out to have a look, but the seal was fine so just put it back in. Might be a good idea to have a spare on hand though.
While that was apart I did polish the spring ends and put some moly on the spring...

I'm not sure it was necessary but it was easy to do. BTW, here's how much preload is on the spring...

Not a lot but I'd still recommend a spring compressor jig.

Wyo

cobalt327 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 11, 2018, 10:55:15 PM »

The polished spring end looks good. Actually all the machining looks clean on this gun. I'd like to have one of those springs- might be good for one of my hotrod Daisy projects. Could be too short, though, I'd need 6-7 inch free length depending on the wire diameter. But all that's for another thread someday.

ETA- The wire's 0.118" diameter, quite a bit more than a Daisy can take. Otherwise, the other specs would work. Oh well.

Nod · « **Reply #10 on:** August 12, 2018, 11:35:47 AM »

Here's a simple clamp I used to remove the spring.

WyoMan · « **Reply #11 on:** August 13, 2018, 12:30:44 AM »

Never thought about using pocket change to remove the spring, LOL. I used an 11/16" socket but the quarter looks like a great idea... it's thick enough and it won't tip.

I use a modified bar clamp jig that is similar to a pipe clamp. Thanks-

Wyo

airsenal · « **Reply #12 on:** August 15, 2018, 01:42:38 PM »

Gary I always check out your posts on the various AG forums - great pics and useful info! I just purchased an LP8 recently and got a darn good deal including G. Bros
grips. The trigger over travel stop screw is missing on it - do you know specs on it? I'd think a set screw that fit would work or maybe I'm worrying about nothing or
a non problem? LOL

WyoMan · « **Reply #13 on:** August 15, 2018, 09:34:22 PM »

Hi Charley, there is only one trigger adjustment screw that I'm aware of, and just to be sure (before I pull it out and measure), are you referring to the screw in the above photos? That screw is the contact point for the sear.

I'm glad you were able to get the pistol with the Galbraith Brothers grips... that's a nice score! I'm sure you'll like it... solid and well built. I've got about 700 or so thru mine at this point and it is consistently shooting 3/8" to 1/2" 10-shot groups from 10m. For me that makes it fun. I have had to tighten screws a couple times and I think they've finally stopped moving. In fact, when I removed the oem muzzle brake the set screws were loose. That may be why my accuracy improved with the new brake... the old brake was just loose. Who knows, but it is fun to shoot (there's just something about an accurate recoiling pistol

) and you can put a ton of shots downrange with little effort.

Wyo

airsenal · « **Reply #14 on:** August 16, 2018, 12:49:44 AM »

Yep you are right. I just read someone that said it was a stop screw for over travel or prevention of it. Looking closer at the pic I see you are right. Also looking
closer with a flashlight down into the hole I see the screw is there on my pistol. Dah! Heck that screw is half way or more out of the hole on the LP8 Tom G. aka
B.B. P. did a review on. Tom didn't even know what it was for. LOL Now I do - thanks man!

Yogi · « **Reply #15 on:** August 16, 2018, 08:46:28 AM »

Since it is "show and tell", here is mine. Just a little twangy...
What does that screw do again?

-Yogi

WyoMan · « **Reply #16 on:** August 16, 2018, 09:34:03 PM »

Mine has a little "ping" at the end of the shot cycle... like the piston could use a little more air cushion. Not bad though. I suppose at 7000' elevation I could use a smaller transfer port.

The screw can adjust how far the trigger travels before it engages the sear. So it adjusts where the trigger is (fore vs. aft) when the sear breaks off the hook.
Thanks for the pic, Yogi... and thanks for the suggestion to get one a year ago!

Wyo

airsenal · « **Reply #17 on:** August 18, 2018, 04:37:18 PM »

Here's mine minus the red-dot sight. I've got a 2.5x32 pistol scope I plan on mounting soon. My old eyes still doing ok - I was keepin' in an inch or so at 50' from seated/rested position and on small cans standing one and two handed. Over the years I actually owned 4 (.177 thru .22) P1/HW45s and 2 DianaP5M/RWS 5GM
(.177) and sold or traded them all. I'm pretty much past the buy/sell/trade as fast as you can madness or phase - man I miss some of the nice AGs I once owned!

Benny · « **Reply #18 on:** August 18, 2018, 08:24:36 PM »

Here is my LP8. I like the wood grips and it's a good thing. They seem to have attached themselves so snugly that I would probably damage them trying to pry them off! Hahaha

WyoMan · « **Reply #19 on:** August 19, 2018, 10:11:50 PM »

Very nice, guys! The wood grips are a big plus... better feel, better grip (looks better too). BTW, I haven't heard anyone complain about accuracy... surprising for a springer pistol. Mine isn't really hold or rest sensitive either... just check / tighten the screws a few times until things settle in.
The trigger could be better but it's not horrible. I'm somewhat spoiled by all the fabulous offerings we have now.

Charley, I've heard a lot of "sellers remorse" stories over the years so I haven't sold a thing (even though I have more than I can shoot). Thanks,

Wyo

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The Diana LP 8 … why not?

Author Topic: The Diana LP 8 … why not? (Read 5932 times))

airsenal

airsenal

airsenal