Used Daisy 853 From the CMP

[ac12]

Ken
I'm jealous that you can just "stop by" the CMP store.

[lillysdad621]

 The rear screw was completely loose on about half of them, including the standard stock one that I bought. Luckily, it just wasn't installed correctly instead of stripped.

mine is also loose... i try to tighten the rear screw but it is bottomed out... could someone telle me if there is anything else that the screw should be attached to? it only has this squareish plastic/rubber block, and the screw seems to have a "nut" half way up the threads. you only feel wiggle when you pump it. otherwise i was killing a silhouette ram at 35 yards yesterday... today im stretching it out to 45...

[cobalt327]

The screw you are talking about is a 2-piece affair. The first half had wood threads and a hex to drive it with. This is first tightened into the stock. Then the second half- a machine thread screw- is used with the plastic insert to tighten the valve body assembly into the stock. What often happens is the whole screw assembly comes out as a unit, instead of just the machine screw separating from the first half. The screw kits Daisy sells now has a single long wood screw to replace the 2-piece assembly. This single long screw is sometimes found already installed on the CMP guns.

It’s my opinion that the 2-part rear receiver/stock retainer screw (photo below) is a better setup than the single long screw (#36 on the diagram). So if the gun is still equipped with it- and as long as it’s not stripped- I’d recommend reusing it. The 2-part screw is only a little more work to use, but it holds the rear of the receiver with less flex than the long wood screw that comes in the screw assortment.



Original photo from Tom Gaylord’s Daisy 853 article.

[JoeShmoe]

Joe,
That is the kind of accuracy I was expecting to see.    (thumbs up)

I like your idea of using a group shot by yourself as an adjustment factor for the wind.

A few wind flags near the target would be a good idea.
Then they can try to shoot when the wind is minimal, or at least consistent for each shot.

More testing today! I went out specifically because the wind was strong. Today it was blowing right to left, quite strongly at times. This is with the peep sites, bench rested, at ~10 meters. Both groups are five shots. For the first group I only shot when the wind was calm. The second group I tried to shoot when the winds were high. As you can see, it was actually pretty hard to time a well-placed shot during a gust of wind! All shots were aiming dead center. The rifles was previously sighted in during the calm on Friday afternoon and was shooting dead center then, if maybe a hair to the right. I was shooting the JSB exacts mentioned earlier.

Regardless, what this means is that I might not even have to bother adjusting requirements for the wind. The requirement for an AR-1 target is keeping the group inside the 6 ring! Even with the strong winds and an "improperly" sighted rifle (sighted for no wind) I still managed to qualify for my merit badge!

Cheers,
Joe

P.S. Yes, the targets were hanging upside down.

Low Wind


High Wind (that "flyer" is REALLY high wind!)

[JoeShmoe]

Also, I should say, I basically shot these two groups and then spent the rest of the time pickign off paintballs and wine corks. The pellet gets caught in the cork so it goes flying even though the gun is "under powered!"

[ac12]

Also, I should say, I basically shot these two groups and then spent the rest of the time pickign off paintballs and wine corks. The pellet gets caught in the cork so it goes flying even though the gun is "under powered!"

I like that kind of fun   

[lillysdad621]

thank you Mark... on my way to the lab... muhahahaha

[cobalt327]

Please forgive the hijack... 

thank you Mark... on my way to the lab... muhahahaha

Some links that may be useful:
•   TRIGGER MOD http://www.pilkguns.com/daisy853tm.shtml
•   TRIGGER MOD II https://umdrive.memphis.edu/ksingltn/public/Daisy%20M853%20M753%20M888%20M887%20Trigger%20Modification%20Instructions%20PDF.pdf
•   http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/853seal.htm

Here's a couple tips on dis and reassembling, some may be covered in the links above. Please disregard this if it's old news to you!

The stock is retained by a type of ‘binding post’ (example in photo below). The “nuts” (#34 on diagram) are usually a tight fit in the stock. They are generally installed in the right side of the stock, but pay attention to what side they are on in case the gun being worked on is different. The reason for this caution is because the nut takes a slightly larger hole for it to seat properly, so they need to be kept in the same position. After the stock screw is removed, the rear nut can be left in place if it’s tightly held by the stock - the stock is thick enough that the nut does not protrude inside the stock to catch on anything when the action is removed. The stock is thinner where the front nut is installed, so the nut may protrude all the way through the stock a little, causing it to foul on the receiver when you go to remove it. If this is the case, it needs to be driven outward at least enough to disengage the barrel band. An easy way to do this is to unscrew the long screw several turns, then tap it to drive the nut outward. Then it can also be left in the stock if it’s a tight fit (they can be very hard to completely remove). If these nuts and screws are damaged, replacements are included in the screw assortment.



Once all the fasteners are out and the nuts clear of everything, the stock is ready to be removed. But before removing, set the safety to half and half so it will clear. Then when you go to remove the stock, open the lever and guide the hand grip through the slot in the stock. If you try to remove the action from the stock with the pump arm snapped home, the pump handle will not fit through the slot in the stock. Forcing it can get the arm stuck or worse yet, the stock could be cracked.

REASSEMBLY TIPS:
I read in one tutorial, to use a mallet to help close the trigger housing (#13 on diagram). All I can say is, I’ve not had to use a mallet to close it. I just align the trigger housing to the valve body with the rear tab of the housing inserted into the receiver and then pull the trigger rearward a little as you press the two parts together and it will snap closed without drama.

To make things easier, remember that the sear spring (#22 on diagram) does NOT need to be in place before the plastic “trigger housing” is installed. One set of instructions say to tuck the spring (while attached to the sear) through the viewing window adjacent to the spring before installing the trigger housing, another says to use a flat blade screwdriver to compress the spring before replacing the trigger housing (fine for those with three hands). I find it easiest by far to simply install the spring through the window after the trigger housing is in place. Just be careful to not let the spring fly away as you install it. This might be a good time to work inside a clear plastic bag, at least the first time this is done. But the spring installs easily this way, and it’s now the only way I do it.

A word about the sear spring- I've read recommendations saying to leave it out altogether to make the pull weight lighter. So I tried it. And while removing it does lessen the pull and the gun will cock and fire without it, you may find that without the spring, when fired the hammer can hit the lever latch with enough force that it releases the lever from being clicked in place. For that reason I use it, and live with the small increase in pull weight.

[Earl]

Thank you Mark.
I needed that information.

[Earl]

My Daisy 853 from CMP was delivered today.
I installed a Kruger 3-9x32 scope on it just to determine which pellets would be the most accurate.
It shoots 10 shots into 1 ragged hole with RWS R 10 Match 7.0 grains, RWS Hobby 7.0 grains and RWS Diabolo Basic 7.0 grains at 54 feet inside using sand bags on an ironing board.  These are just regular pellets in the 500 pellet tins.
This was not a fluke.  I shot three 10 shot groups with each pellet.
I was buying the gun because I wanted to try the peep sights.
Now I don't want to take the scope off.
Note: This used 853 is more accurate than my 953.
The 853 needed oil on the foam wiper and o-ring.
I shimmed the rear scope ring with 7 layers of electrical tape because I ran out of up adjustment.

[cobalt327]

I'm still in the pellet testing phase but of the pellets I have shot, the one that stood out for higher MV and a low ES is the RWS Superdome. They have a softer alloy than some pellets and a thin skirt that I believe helps it to seal to the barrel better (have read this is called "obturation"). I haven't shot any targets for precision yet, but I've had good results plinking w/the Superdomes offhand.

[Oldgringo]

I refinished the stocks on both of my CMP 853's and extended the LOP.  (I really need to strip and stain the sporter stock to match the walnut extender  )   I spent a couple more dollars and purchased 753 sights for my 853 MC.  The Daisy 853 from CMP just might be the best deal in this world....if one is into airguns. 

BTW, my two 853's simply adore the 7.33 gr. AA Air Falcon pellets at ~505 fps each....into a single hole at 10M.

[cobalt327]

Oldgringo, have you ever tested either the RWS Superpoint 8.2 gr or Superdome 8.3 gr pellets in your 853s? They give the best mv from my 853 but I've not tried the AA pellets you mention, so I was wondering how the AAs might compare to the RWS pellets for MV... 

Really liking the LOP extensions! I need to do the same to mine, the plastic spacers look pretty cheesy on an otherwise handsome rifle, IMHO.

[Oldgringo]

Oldgringo, have you ever tested either the RWS Superpoint 8.2 gr or Superdome 8.3 gr pellets in your 853s? They give the best mv from my 853 but I've not tried the AA pellets you mention, so I was wondering how the AAs might compare to the RWS pellets for MV... 

Really liking the LOP extensions! I need to do the same to mine, the plastic spacers look pretty cheesy on an otherwise handsome rifle, IMHO.

I've tried many pellets and the 7.33 gr. AA Air Falcons produce a single 10M hole at ~505 fps and that's good enough for me uh huh, uh huh.  And yes, the plastic stock extenders that come with the rifle are ugly and ill fitting.

[JoeShmoe]

Oldgringo, have you ever tested either the RWS Superpoint 8.2 gr or Superdome 8.3 gr pellets in your 853s? They give the best mv from my 853 but I've not tried the AA pellets you mention, so I was wondering how the AAs might compare to the RWS pellets for MV... 

Really liking the LOP extensions! I need to do the same to mine, the plastic spacers look pretty cheesy on an otherwise handsome rifle, IMHO.

I've tried many pellets and the 7.33 gr. AA Air Falcons produce a single 10M hole at ~505 fps and that's good enough for me uh huh, uh huh.  And yes, the plastic stock extenders that come with the rifle are ugly and ill fitting.

It looks like you have three stacked up on there, is that true? I may order an extra, if that's the case.

[ac12]

You can also use PVC pipe sections or similar tubing.  That would give it a somewhat skeleton look that some match rifles have.  I would put 1 spacer under the butt pad to support the center of the butt pad, then tubing between the spacer and stock.

What I am not sure of is, if the spacer serves any function for support perpendicular to the line of the stock, either side to side or up and down.

[cobalt327]

It looks like you have three stacked up on there, is that true? I may order an extra, if that's the case.

Yes, three fit using the factory screws w/about 5/8" engagement.

The only thing that might be an issue w/using tubing as stand-offs for a single 853 spacer and buttpad is the screws are 8-32. Wouldn't take much to use a larger threaded stock insert and screws though.

[JoeShmoe]

So I took all that previous data and worked through it using Range Buddy. Here are the results:

[cobalt327]

Thanks for posting these results- good stuff!

[tennx]

MIne should be here soon, ready to join the ranks....LOL

Just got Fed X update will be here Thursday...hope its a good un....