My Wallyworld pc77 build

[Madkoifish]

Well, that annoying pin. Decided to teach some pesky cans whats what and that pin, that pin. . . it just set me off. So looked at Mellon's page, says to drill out the tube to 3/16 well my holes are already that EXACTLY. Well I found this chrome rod I think it is brass. It is threaded on one end and 3 inches+ so hacksaw drills and a metric tap later I have this. Cut it long to file down and leave room for O-rings to protect the tube. I didn't file it enough so a bit of old nitro fuel tube will bodge it for now. I only had stainless metric screws but I figure I will get black steel later on or rummage for them. Went metric because button heads in 4-40 are &^^&. The hex is way too small and strips when small rodents pass wind.  Anyhow Ill post pics when I get some black rings or at least a more final example. hah busy putting hurt on those cans. 
yeah I know that band is loose.

I doubt this will last long but it should hold long enough for me to order the parts I should have ordered last month! heh The chrome finish does make pumping smoother. I also used some teflon washers inside the tube so the pump arm does not flop about. (they are traxxas diff spacers, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDEA8&P=7  ) The teflon washers used in slot car guides would work too. I just didnt have any of those. They might hold up better and have more "slip" since they are meant to be as slick as possible where the traxxas are just washers to shim diffs drive cups and the like.

I do wonder what is that large milled washer pictured in the mellon images for the pins? I cannot figure out where that would go.

[slothart]

The larger milled washer is pushed into place between the two metal struts of the pump arm to reinforce the outside of the joint.  With the bushing on the inside and the milled washer on the outside, it creates a pretty rock solid pivot point for pumping.

[dropshot]

 Thanks guys for all the info, I appreciate it very much.