766 and similar 2100 disassembly and reassembly

[Dead Springer]

There was a recent post about getting a new 2100, down the post it was commented that it was a little difficult to get back together.  This is true, so I decided to do this pictorial to hopefully help someone out with what I have learned.

First, lay the rifle on blocks of wood so that you are not resting it on the cocking lever.  The levers are plastic and easily broken, (although if you do break one even on an older model the current supply from Crosman parts will still work and are available.)  Remove the (3) screws.  The 766 has (2) additional breech retention screws, one visible here on the receiver face, it is the smaller screw - remove it too.  Now you can pry apart the clamshell receiver holding down the plastic butt stock because the larger post that goes through both holes in the stock is in the section of the receiver on bottom.

It was described somewhere else as the disassembly is a 'hand grenade' this is true, mainly because of the next (2) pictures.  The BB loader spring and the sear spring.  But also, this is why to keep the bottom on the bottom during disassembly.  Then the sear spring stays in its' little groove in the receiver (hopefully)  As for the BB loader spring, just make sure you're facing a wall and have a clear working space because it is going to pop out.  I cut mine in half, so it stays in place most of the time.

Oh, by the way this is the correct orientation of the BB follower spring.

[Dead Springer]

Part 2:
Next you are probably taking your rifle apart because you want to get to the valve to reseal, or the breech block to clean/ heat shrink the transfer port.  So, at least in the 766, you are stuck.  It took me a minute to find that screw hidden under the barrel shown in the first picture.  And another minute to figure out how to get to it.  First you have to remove the barrel.  There is a hex grub screw in the top of the breech block, remove that first.  Then take out the screw at the end of the compression tube and take apart the barrel band (second picture.)

[Dead Springer]

Thirdly:
Pull the barrel and shroud straight out and now you can get to that second of (2) breech block screw (note, I don't think the 2100's have this screw either.)  Take off the BB loader, cocking lever/Bolt and the breech block.  Clean up the breech block and you can add heat shrink tubing to the transfer port to tighten things up and reduce air loss, this is the reason I tore into this one today.

[A.K.A. Tommy Boy]

Good Idea David !   Very Good Post !       Best Regards - Tom

[Dead Springer]

Reassembly Numero Uno:
OK, before reassembly, if you are going to reseal your valve, you will have to take out the compression tube, drift the pump lever pin out, pull out the piston and use a wooden dowel to push out the valve through the front.  There are no screws retaining the valve, just an indent in the tube so you can't remove it from the back.  But valve resealing is not part of this post

So, on to reassembly.  You have to insert the cocking lever/bolt probe into the breech block and then put it into place.  Don't forget to have the receiver supported on blocks so that the cocking lever can hang down.  Holding the compression tube in place looks like the first picture.  (Notice the barrel up top.  You can wrap behind the transfer hole with (4) wraps of teflon tape and (6) in front.  Again, this will help to seal against air loss which is everywhere in these rifles.)

After placing the breech block you can place the BB loader, but not the BB detent and spring yet.  After this, you can place the compression tube in place with the hammer arm in the cocking slot of the cocking lever/bolt.  Look how it goes together before you try it, it will make it easier.  You have to compress the hammer spring so that the spring guide fits over the short post on this side of the receiver and push in with a twisting motion.  To me, this is the trickiest part.

Push the barrel back in place.  The teflon tape on the first part of the barrel should slide through with no trouble.  The tape on the latter part will start to bunch up in front of the breech block, but this is what helps to seal.  Then tighten up the hex grub screw on top.

[Dead Springer]

Almost done:
The hammer spring and guide should stay in place, I've never had it pop out, but it always makes me nervous until I put the other part of the receiver back.  I should also note that the trigger blade, safety and safety spring should have stayed put in the other half of the receiver.  If you want to take it out and smooth it out you can, that part is pretty straightforward.

Put back the cocking interlink, the washer and then the sear as shown in the photo.  There is a slot that the interlink fits in between the BB loader and the bolt.  Basically, when you cock the gun, you can't pull the trigger because this blocks the trigger blade from moving.

Now, place the other half of the receiver and carefully guide into place.  The last trick is that the safety never wants to be in alignment because the spring is pushing it over, so leave a little gap temporarily as shown in the photo.  Push the safety in all the way from this side and use a very small allen key to push it into alignment.  It should easily press into place.  Look around the receiver joint line to make sure there are no gaps.  If not, replace the screws then lastly replace the barrel band at the front and you Sir, are DONE.

[Boomer]

mine has an all metal inside, none of that plastic junk. was super easy to put back together. has a retainer built into it that holds the spring and hammer.
my barrel band is stripped and makes it hard to pump. going to repair that and be just like brand new.