Quote from: OleTomCat on July 07, 2017, 11:35:10 PMQuote from: elguapo99 on July 07, 2017, 11:32:24 PMQuote from: Killfire on July 07, 2017, 10:16:15 PMEric, that is how I fill my tank. I close the tank valve then open my bleeder screw.I fill my SCBA's the same way but a check valve, if such a thing exists for HPA, sounds like a great idea especially when bleeding off moisture from the high side of the compressor.The exist:https://www.mcmaster.com/#high-pressure-check-valves/=18eguqnThe McMaster-Carr check valves are only rated to 3000 psi. I did find this one that is rated to 6000 psi: http://www.discovervalve.com/INCVSS01.html
Quote from: elguapo99 on July 07, 2017, 11:32:24 PMQuote from: Killfire on July 07, 2017, 10:16:15 PMEric, that is how I fill my tank. I close the tank valve then open my bleeder screw.I fill my SCBA's the same way but a check valve, if such a thing exists for HPA, sounds like a great idea especially when bleeding off moisture from the high side of the compressor.The exist:https://www.mcmaster.com/#high-pressure-check-valves/=18eguqn
Quote from: Killfire on July 07, 2017, 10:16:15 PMEric, that is how I fill my tank. I close the tank valve then open my bleeder screw.I fill my SCBA's the same way but a check valve, if such a thing exists for HPA, sounds like a great idea especially when bleeding off moisture from the high side of the compressor.
Eric, that is how I fill my tank. I close the tank valve then open my bleeder screw.
Quote from: elguapo99 on July 08, 2017, 10:11:57 AMQuote from: OleTomCat on July 07, 2017, 11:35:10 PMQuote from: elguapo99 on July 07, 2017, 11:32:24 PMQuote from: Killfire on July 07, 2017, 10:16:15 PMEric, that is how I fill my tank. I close the tank valve then open my bleeder screw.I fill my SCBA's the same way but a check valve, if such a thing exists for HPA, sounds like a great idea especially when bleeding off moisture from the high side of the compressor.The exist:https://www.mcmaster.com/#high-pressure-check-valves/=18eguqnThe McMaster-Carr check valves are only rated to 3000 psi. I did find this one that is rated to 6000 psi: http://www.discovervalve.com/INCVSS01.htmlI ordered the stainless steel 6000 psi check valve today. My initial thought is to install it between the black and gold HPA filters. I'll report back when I get it installed.
Quote from: elguapo99 on July 08, 2017, 09:27:22 PMQuote from: elguapo99 on July 08, 2017, 10:11:57 AMQuote from: OleTomCat on July 07, 2017, 11:35:10 PMQuote from: elguapo99 on July 07, 2017, 11:32:24 PMQuote from: Killfire on July 07, 2017, 10:16:15 PMEric, that is how I fill my tank. I close the tank valve then open my bleeder screw.I fill my SCBA's the same way but a check valve, if such a thing exists for HPA, sounds like a great idea especially when bleeding off moisture from the high side of the compressor.The exist:https://www.mcmaster.com/#high-pressure-check-valves/=18eguqnThe McMaster-Carr check valves are only rated to 3000 psi. I did find this one that is rated to 6000 psi: http://www.discovervalve.com/INCVSS01.htmlI ordered the stainless steel 6000 psi check valve today. My initial thought is to install it between the black and gold HPA filters. I'll report back when I get it installed.Can't wait to see how you connect it all up.
I did the same with mine. I just ran it for a few minutes not hooked to anything. Then did some short run time fills. After I had about 20 minutes on run time on it I changed out the first fill of oil to flush out any gunk left over from production. Its been running fine since then. I'm currently using the chemlube 751 in it.
I just ran mine. Didn't do any leak checks or anything. I did run it with no bottle hooked up for 10-15 mins with hydraulic oil and then drained it and removed the front cover and wiped out the residue. Refilled with fresh and called it good. Just be sure to always, always, always make sure there is water flowing to the head.
Ken what compressor do you have?edit: looking back in this thread I see we have the same compressor. Should be in the same spot as my pictures...On my yong heng,the probe sticks into the lower part of the cooling head. I'll add a pic in a bit...
Did the display go dark or did it just stop reading temp and still displays #'s?I haven't pulled mine yet since its still working, but, it must be battery operated. If it no longer displays digit's, I'd check the batteries. The thermistor should have only 2 wires, should be simple to track down if its just a lose solder connection.I think this is the same temp unit in my compressor...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LCD-Display-Temperature-Meter-Thermometer-Temp-Sensor-w-Probe-Black-/362011475920?hash=item544990bfd0:g:joUAAOSw0j9ZRO4T
Glad to help Ken, you've helped so many of us it's nice to pay you back so to speak My probe hasn't moved in a couple hours of run so far. If it does, I think some thermal grease might be the ticket to help hold it in place and may help give better readings as well.
Quote from: shultz on July 12, 2017, 12:46:51 AMGlad to help Ken, you've helped so many of us it's nice to pay you back so to speak My probe hasn't moved in a couple hours of run so far. If it does, I think some thermal grease might be the ticket to help hold it in place and may help give better readings as well.That thermal grease sounds like a great idea. I checked my sensor and it sides right out. The only thing holding it in place, is the pressure of the wire. It fits in the hole okay, but it's not tight at all. I've got some thick heat sink grease that might help it stay in place. Better heat transfer means faster updates on the LCD. I think you are right about being more accurate too. The compressor vibration, bouncing the sensor around in there, can't be good for accuracy..
Advertise Here
Share This!