hand pumps are now 72.00 shipped

[avator]

Converted a couple 2240s to HPA with 2260 tubes (valves pinned). I only use the pump for those guys and save my tanks for the MRod and FD-PCP.

[starlingassassin]

this pump is driving me crazy!!!!!!!!!

its like it only works sometimes.

and to top it off,my maximus came in today and of course the pump is choosing not to work at all today   

i really dont understand why,
ive had it apart 30 times,
each time i put it back together and plug the hose with the included plug and pump,
sometimes it pumps up to pressurize the hose and sometimes it just does nothing.

im about to chuck it off a cliff,if i could afford another tank right now id sooooo get one. 

(note to self,NEVER EVER again sell your joe b tank,its worth more than its weight in gold!

[Wayne52]

for those looking to do the motorized conversions , I think the cheapest way to get started with a motor , that already had a pulley and some gear reduction is actually taking the drill head off this ( i happen to own one which sparked the thought

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html

I've thought of motorizing using one of these budget pumps and have been looking for a "donor" but haven't thought about a drill press. Says its 1/2 hp. Wonder what size motor is needed...I may need something bigger, since I'd like to have a twin pump setup. 

A conveyor belt motor with a reduction gearbox would work good.

[Rob M]

yep, the only issue with the gearbox reductions is generally the price.. IF you scour ebay , they can be had for cheap with the right input shaft for whatever 120 motor you happen to have.. really , for the right speed to pump the motor , you need really low rpm , Id go for one of the 40:1 reductions ..EVEN then with a 3000 rpm motor , you are turning 75 strokes /min , still to fast for the pump .. So 50 to 1 or higher

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Gear-Reducers-Gearboxes/Cast-Iron-C-Face-Motor-Mount-Gear-Reducers/40-1-RA-GEAR-REDUCER-0-38-HP-56C-LEFT-OUTPUT-13-133-40-L-56C.axd

[Rob M]

heres a 60 :1  which would be 50 strokes per min on a 3000 rpm motor , about right , still a bit fast.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Gear-Reducers-Gearboxes/Cast-Iron-C-Face-Motor-Mount-Gear-Reducers/60-1-RA-GEAR-REDUCER-0-23-HP-56C-DUAL-OUTPUT-13-133-60-DE-56C.axd

its rated for .23 hp , id bet it would be perfectly fine running 1/2 hp which would also be sufficient to do the work ( reason I say that is workload, most of these are designed for sustained work over 24 hrs in a plant, not pumping a gun for 12 mins)

[Back_Roads]

 Might not hurt to check with the local scrap guys , either they may have or keep an eye out for an item with reduction , and or pullies and belts to achieve the desired reduction , I did this making a drumal stye compost sifter/tumbler, using 2 aluminum motorcycle rims as the drum form spanned with 1x2" spacers to fasten hardware cloth <~ little off topic lol  , reducing a 1200 ish RPM motor to 33 1/3 rpm. any faster the compost was  acting like it was on the grav-a-tron ride at the county fair 

[2K1TJ]

Yeah, I think it would likely have to be done with scrounged cheap/free parts or the costs will add up quick! You would soon be near the price of those small Chinese compressors that keep tempting me. On the other hand, I would love the simplicity and ease of maintenance/rebuilds with a motorized hand pump setup.

[Rob M]

ive seen the gear reductions refurbished for super cheap , like 40 shipped.. Im looking now

[2K1TJ]

We have some gear boxes like the one you posted at work. I just need to verify that they don't fit any of our current equipment and i know the boss will let me have em. Thats assuming they have the right specs for this application.
We have some old motors too.

[Rob M]

im finding the 15-1 and 10-1 for cheap , nothing in the 50 and 60-1 range

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BROWNING-GEAR-BOX-RATIO-15-1-HP-1-43-USED/192106919331?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D42405%26meid%3D5d2b96c9260346a49f667c181842ece4%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D290309128186

[Rob M]

We have some gear boxes like the one you posted at work. I just need to verify that they don't fit any of our current equipment and i know the boss will let me have em. Thats assuming they have the right specs for this application.
We have some old motors too.

well, u need a matching motor shaft for the input , and whatever the reduction ( lets say its 10-1 ) you just need to do a pulley reduction on the output to drive the pump ( in this case 5-1 pulley reduction giving 50:1

for free, you cannot beat that

[lennyk]

yes, I think a final stage pulley would be the easiest way to fine tune the final rpm

[shultz]

this pump is driving me crazy!!!!!!!!!

its like it only works sometimes.

and to top it off,my maximus came in today and of course the pump is choosing not to work at all today   

i really dont understand why,
ive had it apart 30 times,
each time i put it back together and plug the hose with the included plug and pump,
sometimes it pumps up to pressurize the hose and sometimes it just does nothing.

im about to chuck it off a cliff,if i could afford another tank right now id sooooo get one. 

(note to self,NEVER EVER again sell your joe b tank,its worth more than its weight in gold!

Sounds like either the bleed valve is not sealing all the time or the check ball in the top of the tube/check valve at the bottom isn't sealing all the time.

Do you hear air coming out of the top of the pump on the down stroke? you should only hear air being sucked in as you pull the pump back up.... Check ball might be sticking or just not sealing every time.

Same with the bleed valve, when closed and sealed, you should hear no air coming from it. maybe put a little soapy water around it and see if it blows bubbles as you try to pump.

The lower check valve, I'm not sure you can tell if it's working by sound...If it's not closing at full down stroke, the air you just pushed in the hose will be sucked out on the up stroke... you'll never build pressure.

[cowtown]

Hi guys,
I'm late to the cheap-pump party, but thought I would report my experience, especially for the people who are having problems.  I completely disassembled the pump before it came near a gun, since it would not hold air at all out of the box.

I found significant machining swarf (brass) in the threaded areas, and water in not just the jacket, but also the inner compression chamber.  In addition, I found the fill hose, as well as the bleeder, gauge, and fill quick connect, use hard plastic bushings as a sealing mechanism, and they were the major part of the sealing problem (probably not any news to you all who have bought before me).  I sanded/polished the white bushes flat with 2000 grit, coated them with light silicone, and torqued them a little snugger.  Finally I knocked the burrs off the brass fittings and tube ends where possible, to try to make the o-rings' lives easier on reassembly.

Anyway, with the test plug it has now held at 4500 for 4 hours, so I'm happy. 

Before using the pump for real, I'm going to mill up a press-fit adapter for a male 1/4 npt air compressor fitting to go on over the intake, so I can hook up my desiccant pack and maybe then boost it a bit.  I have had great luck boosting my old Hill MK3 while topping off a field tank and don't see any reason not to boost this as well.  If anyone has done this already, I'd love to hear some details or see pictures!

-ct

[cowtown]

I'm going to mill up a press-fit adapter for a male 1/4 npt air compressor fitting to go on over the intake, so I can hook up my desiccant pack and maybe then boost it a bit.

Here is one way of getting a threaded connector onto the input port of these cheap pumps...just a 20mm spacer, with o-ring facing down, clamped between the brass inlet fitting and handle.  New screws needed - M5x0.8x50mm.  No mods to the pump parts at all.  It works great to hook up a large desiccant and also boost by 14psi.

[Rob M]

nice work, but what seals the handle?? looks like a complete pass through

[cowtown]

nice work, but what seals the handle?? looks like a complete pass through

No need to seal the handle at all - the center hole only goes halfway into the spacer, and leads only to the 1/4NPT female threads.  That hole and o-ring shown in the middle photo touch the brass part of the pump.  There's no center hole on the top side.

[Back_Roads]

Brilliant !

[Rob M]

gotcha, awesome!

[shultz]

nice work, but what seals the handle?? looks like a complete pass through

No need to seal the handle at all - the center hole only goes halfway into the spacer, and leads only to the 1/4NPT female threads.  That hole and o-ring shown in the middle photo touch the brass part of the pump.  There's no center hole on the top side.

Very nice work!!