Prod trigger group

[Wayne52]

I'm mainly making this post to see if anyone has put a Maruader Pistol trigger group on a 2240.  I've heard there's a lot of people out there that do it but they never seem to elaborate much on how they go about it.  Mostly what I've heard about doing it on the 2240 it's pretty much straightforward. I've heard that the short steel breaches with the breach screw mounted towards the rear you have to use a modified hammer and also have heard this isn't required on the 2240. I would greatly appreciate any input on this topic because I really want to do it to my project gun.  For any of you out there that have shot the Prod you know exactly what I'm talking about with that trigger, it is nice.

[kj]

hi, i've done it several times. definitely the best trigger for this platform. ok, i never used a breeches rear screw position, but i believe the hammer has to be notched in front top part. the original hammer won't work with this trigger group unless you fill in the waist with jbweld or some such. i always used the p-rod/challenger hammer assembly. this consists of the hammer, a striker and acetal pin. there are other after-market vendors that make a hammer that will also work for your application. if you use the rear screw position on the breech, the p-rod hammer will have to be notched to clear the screw as well.  something else i do when putting a p-rod or m-rod trigger group on a build is that i use the p-rod end cap. this  gives me access to the hammer throw adjustment and spring pre-load adjustment without having to disassemble. to make this end cap work 1 hole has to be drilled and tapped as the p-rod uses 2 screws for the breech hold down. just split between them drill and tap. it's aluminum so it's easy to drill , tapping just go slow and back the tap out occasionaly to clear the chips-and use a lube like magic thread or something.
   you don't have to use that rear cap, i just do for the reasons i listed. i'm sure others will offer some different takes. i did use a power adjuster on one build instead of the p-rod end cap. it was on a carbine i made for my wife that i don't expect to have to change the throw adjustment on. plus, like most women, she likes shiney things. lol
* if you do add a p-rod trigger group be sure to ALWAYS depress the trigger when snugging it up to the tube or you risk the possiblity of breaking the sear which is sintured metal or some wierd stuff and more than one has been broken by not depressing the trigger to take the pressure off.
  if you like a wider trigger blade , don cothran makes the 2stage trigger blade  piece in stainless and brass that has a wider blade.  if he doesn't have them listed just contact him. you can see some installed on some builds on my website.
 unless you're trying to cut down on wieght i'd consider a long breech for the added space for optics. also you can drill and tap the top for an extra barrel hold down screw. also several aluminum breeches are available if you're looking to save wieght.

hope this helps
peace
kj

[Wayne52]

What modifications are need (if any) for just instinalling it on the Crosman 2240 is really what I'm after.  I remember seeing a thread that Bob wrote and it seems that he said you could bolt it right on.  I've been searching for the thread but the key words I've been using just aren't working.

[sshewins]

Over at CAPOF, they elaborate quite a bit on this topic. I believe that you have to extend the sear notch forward some (on the air tube).

[BillK]

Get a solid hammer w/notch.
http://mellonair.myfreesites.net/odds-ends
Remove a little bit of the sear as shown & your good to go.

[CraigH]

I have used the prod trigger group on 2240 and 1322.  It is a bolt-on - well mostly.  On the 2240 and 1377 I used solid hammers by http://yeoleairgunshop.yolasite.com/.  Excellent workmanship.  I'm not going to get into light-hammer heavy-hammer and light-spring heavy-spring.

On the 2240 it was 100% bolt-on - exact replacement - same grips.  On the 1377 I had problems, and could not get it to cock, until I posted and read information on CAPOF.  Seems the prod sear interferes with the air tube on some guns. The fix is enlarge the air tube sear slot toward the front about a 1/4" or so.  An easier solution is to grind the top, forward portion of the prod sear about 1/4" so that it does not contact the air tube.

I will try to find the CAPOF information.

[Wayne52]

I have used the prod trigger group on 2240 and 1322.  It is a bolt-on - well mostly.  On the 2240 and 1377 I used solid hammers by http://yeoleairgunshop.yolasite.com/.  Excellent workmanship.  I'm not going to get into light-hammer heavy-hammer and light-spring heavy-spring.

On the 2240 it was 100% bolt-on - exact replacement - same grips.  On the 1377 I had problems, and could not get it to cock, until I posted and read information on CAPOF.  Seems the prod sear interferes with the air tube on some guns. The fix is enlarge the air tube sear slot toward the front about a 1/4" or so.  An easier solution is to grind the top, forward portion of the prod sear about 1/4" so that it does not contact the air tube.

I will try to find the CAPOF information.

Thanks a lot Craig that's really nice to know, it seems that everything that I've read about using the trigger group on the 22xx's is when you're dealing with the short steel breach (rear mount breach screw), I could have taken it off from my Prod but knowing there's no modifications needed now for sure has really convinced me of ordering the trigger group.  I love the trigger on my Prod and soon I'll be loving the trigger that will be on my modded 2240.  I'm putting it on a 2240 that will have an 18" barrel, TKO, HiPAC and 2 extensions, still debating on getting a BNM breach of it too which won't make any difference cause they're designed for the 2240.

this is about what it will look like

[CraigH]

BillK's image is exactly what I worked from - he and others guided the solution to my 1322 problem.