Evanix Sniper X2 .45 project

[rkr]

I put together a 60mm diameter "De-lisle type" LDC for the gun to test and it is still louder than I would like. I think the reason is the leak from the non sealed valve stem. The tip of the valve stem is actually visible from the hammer guide slot so it puffs out a good blow from that slot, unlike in Blizzard/RS2 where the slot is covered by the hammer during valve opening. As that air is of much higher pressure than what comes out of the barrel end it also moves faster making a noticeable bang even if the amount of air is not huge. I think I figured out how to fix that but that would require tearing it all apart and I should be shooting this gun over weekend so that will have to wait.

[rintafile]

rkr

Did You try those EPP/UG's..?

[rkr]

rkr

Did You try those EPP/UG's..?

Not yet but hopefully next week. I also made a blocking plate for the front part of the hammer guide slot. It reduces noise (tested) and prevents unwanted dirt from getting in front of the hammer tube.

[rkr]

Fírst accuracy test, 3 shots at 50M in 1.5" and 1 shot 6" off and another one about 15" off. LDC and scope are the suspects. I'll swap the scope and LDC for my next test, unfortunately testing without LDC is not an option this time My 10/22 was printing about 1" fast groups with subsonics so it was not the conditions that were the problem.

[rkr]

Finally some progress. That low mag Mustang scope is useless for target shooting so I took the FFP scope from my rimmie to test things. The trigger is still awfull, I pulled several shots when testing. 6 m/s gusty wind caused issues so I shot at 50m. I had two weights of eppug, 177 grain swcs and 220 grainers cast by previous owner. Of those the 220 grainers were hopeless and 187 grain eppugs showed most promise with best 4 shot group (pulled one shot) being 21mm horizontal due to wind but only 4.5mm vertical. More testing is needed in better conditions and trigger needs more attention. Biggest headache for today was caused by a hidden o-ring on ldc mating surface. It twisted the whole ldc causing me to run out of adjustment on scope. Needless to say it was left there by the previous owner ...

[rkr]

Guess what, the trigger blade is too long. It locks in place in the trigger guard when the gun is cocked. Of course when I adjusted the trigger the guard was off the gun, way to to Evanix. I took off a mill from blade end and it feels much better, I'll try to squeeze in a test session tomorrow. The o-ring that centers the shroud where ldc attaches disintegrated, hopefully I can fix that with some ptfe tape tomorrow.

[rkr]

Back at home so it was time to do some changes. The sear geometry was a bit off (done by previous owner, looked good until checked) so filed it to follow that arc as was shown in the photo earlier. After that mirror polish for all contact surfaces and readjustment of the trigger. It turned out acceptable, not the greatest but I can live with (at least for now). It was then time to do some chrony numbers and it seems I have stumbled to a rather good tune:

200 bar fill, 175 grain EPP/UG
803 fps
808 fps - 255 fpe
801 fps
798 fps
783 fps
150 bar

This would make a wonderful silhouette tune without tethering. It being so flat also means that I have around 30-40 fps speed in reserve for the next time I'll get a chance to shoot some groups, something I need to try. I was looking at the groups I shot lately and 175 grain EPP/UGs did more or less round groups while the heavier bullets spread out horizontally. Since the barrel is free floating adding speed would provide an interesting test on barrel harmonics and it's effect on groups.

[rkr]

Aargh, I think I found the reason for my previous accuracy problems with my old LDC - there was a tiny o-ring at the barrel end just behind the threads making it really hard to spot. As it's mushy it will not compress evenly and the LDC will go on at angle and the end cap will start clipping. Even worse the LDC may twist in different direction from shot to shot making it really hard to spot what's wrong Why on earth would anyone put a mushy o-ring against the barrel shoulder that LDC should meet square to prevent misalignment? The barrel just has that shroud guide block screwed on so there's absolutely zero reason to hide an o-ring in there - made me miss several good shooting days. Sorry, I had to vent a bit - these hidden modifications that were done to the gun before I bought it are rather frustrating - I really hope this was the last one. Actually this may have also affected my last shooting session as the shroud can also flex a bit extra due to this.

[TPL]

rkr, so sorry to hear you are having that kind of a disappointment. Just tell us what we can do more.

[rkr]

rkr, so sorry to hear you are having that kind of a disappointment. Just tell us what we can do more.

Thanks Timo, one thing that's probably needed is to harden the sear. It is rather soft and had marks on the contact surface after about hundred shots. If you have an easy procedure in mind I could follow ...

[TPL]

But of course. I'm using some eccentric press punch tools for valves. They are made of tool steel and need some softening and if you ever read our Finnish forum, you have it all there.

[TPL]

To avoid contact marks and galling I recommend Ultimox 226. It is expensive but good.

Especially if valve block is made of aluminum or titanium.

[rkr]

I meant the hammer sear in the trigger unit, the hardening of it seems to be too soft. I already did the valve stem using the procedure you wrote and it turned out good.

[TPL]

Ahh, ok. I've ever had problems with trigger shear and what comes to hammer itself, I've made them of tempering steel but just nitrided. Of course it is always possible to temper them too if you need.

Tool steel is also good for trigger if you want to make one yourself.

[TPL]

Except the one that broke but that was not on me and I don't want to talk about it about any more.

That can be also found on our forum.

[TPL]

Or, You could try to make carbon tempering. That is a kind of surface tempering, maybe possible.

[rkr]

Sear is now hardened. First on BBQ coals to get some carbon and then heated it up red hot with a torch and quenched in oil. I inspected it after taking some shots and it seems to be doing rather well. As a side note I chronied some roundballs with current tune and they do the same 810 isf fpe as 30 grains heavier EPP/UGs. That means that I may actually hit 850 fps with EPP/UGs, I won't try that now as the plan is to test accuracy changes when increasing speed and current tune is a perfect baseline. The fact is that there's enough power in this 255 fpe tune if I can just hit things with the gun.

[rkr]

Some testing done and I think I'm done with tuning for now. I had a perfect testing day yesterday with almost zero wind and I managed to run out of air I still got to shoot some groups and EPP/UGs are the prime choice for this gun, 175 grainers seem to have a slight edge over 185 grainers. When I do my part those bullets do about 1" ctc groups at 50 yards which is acceptable for silhouette or hunting. I also shot those 177 grain SWCs and 166 grain Air Venturi FPs but neither bullet grouped as well as EPP/UGs. Speed testing was not completed due to air situation but the one RVA adjustment I did to up the speed didn't make any difference. The barrel leads up really quick, cleaning after 25-30 shots is a good idea. I can actually see machining marks on the lands of rifling. Further lapping would reduce the lead build up but with micro bore rifling I'm a bit worried about that. Lastly a photo of the gun with LDC and a target with some acceptable EPP/UG groups - the paper tore up badly so bullets that went through the existing hoel didn't mark it - those are 5 shot groups. Left side groups show the difference from dirty (upper group) to clean barrel (lower group).

[rkr]

Opinions? I guess I need to do some extensive lapping once the season is over.

[MJP]

Change the barrel, that is no good. Or try wheeler lapping kit with hard cast bullets.