Author Topic: Disco trigger advice (Read 12781 times - 1 votes)
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drifter947 · « **on:** April 04, 2011, 08:27:19 AM »

Hi everyone! My name is Marijan, i am 34 yo and live in Croatia.

For a long time following this forum and i have learned a lot about air guns here. So far i ve had a CZ 630, CZ 634, Gamo Hunter 1250 5,5cal (.22), Diana RWS 350 magnum 4,5 (.177), Hatsan 125 5,5 (in the U.S. known as the walther falcon hunter), and currently i have only Benjamin Discovery .22 with Leapers 5th-gen 6-24x50. In these 2 years that i have a disco, i had no problems with the rifle, but we only had a pump failure a few months ago, which was repaired quickly and cheaply, so i then started using a SCUBA tank. PCP air rifles are with us in Europe is very expensive, and disco with a pump here will cost 470 euros (670$), Marauder without pump 635 euros (900$), Hatsan AT-44 (Hammerli Pneuma in the U.S.) without pump 420 euros (600$), while all other models are generally more expensive, and the disco is very good value for money. I plan to make laminated homemade stock, and try to soften the trigger, so if any one know how to do it i would be very grateful.

rsterne · « **Reply #1 on:** April 04, 2011, 12:12:43 PM »

The Disco trigger is actually a very nice unit with only replacing the trigger spring with one made from about 0.020" wire instead of the stock one which uses 0.028" wire.... With the original spring, the trigger pull is too high and you can't feel the release point.... By changing the coil spring behind the trigger for a lighter one.... you end up with a trigger that feels very much like a two-stage trigger.... The first part of the pull is much lighter, and the second stage is still governed by the hairpin spring that engages the sear.... The sear doesn't start to move until you feel the tension of that second spring.... so an added advantage is that if you squeeze to that point and then release the trigger.... the sear is still fully engaged....

There is also a three screw mod and I have a photo I will dig out and post.... but for now, get a lighter spring and try that.... I think you will be amazed at the difference.... The total pull weight drops to about 2 lbs. with no other change....

Bob

rsterne · « **Reply #2 on:** April 04, 2011, 12:20:17 PM »

For many of you this is nothing new.... but I found it on the Internet and decided to try it out.... It works GREAT!.... I added three 4-40 SHCSs to adjust the length of the first stage, the overtravel, and the sear engagement.... For these mods to be effective, you will have had to already replaced the trigger (coil) spring with a lighter one to reduce the initial trigger pull and introduce what is effectively a first stage.... I use a 3/16" OD spring, 5/8" long, made of 0.020" wire to replace the stock spring which is 0.028" wire.... Other mods are polishing all the metal to metal contact points on the hammer, sear, and intermediate lever to at least 600 grit or finer.... If you want to reduce the 2nd stage pull weight, you can bend the sear (hairpin) spring to have a tighter angle but GO EASY.... Just 5 degrees makes a BIG difference.... 10 degrees and it will fire when you breath on it....

The upper screw on the back of the housing adjusts the trigger position.... Screwing it in moves the resting position of the trigger aft and hence shortens the first stage.... If you screw it in too far, the gun will not cock or may fire when bumped, so BE CAREFUL....

The lower screw on the back of the housing adjusts how far the trigger can move backwards.... Screwing it in reduces how far the trigger can move back after it is pulled and hence reduces the overtravel.... If you screw it in too far, the gun will not fire.... Before that happens you will get inconsistency in the hammer release, and/or the sear dragging on the hammer, leading to low velocities.... so don't turn it in too far....

The screw on the bottom just in front of the trigger guard adjusts the sear engagement.... Screwing it in reduces the sear engagement, reducing or eliminating any creep.... If you screw it in too far, the gun will not cock or may fire when bumped, so BE CAREFUL....

Now the "how to" part.... Get three 4-40 socket head cap screws, two that are 1/2" long, and one that is 3/8" long.... There are already two holes in the back of the trigger housing and all you have to do is screw the two long (1/2") screws in there.... no tapping required because the housing is plastic and grips the screws nicely, preventing them from losing their adjustment.... Drill a 3/32" hole (or a #38-#39 if you have one) vertically just in front of the trigger guard.... Line it up carefully on the centerline of the trigger housing and make sure to drill straight up and not on an angle.... Then insert the shorter (3/8") screw into the hole and screw it in, stopping when it JUST contacts the intermediate lever....

To adjust, first make sure that all three screws are not interferring with the action of the trigger.... Reassemble the trigger group, and install it on the action. You have to install the safety, as it tensions the sear (hairpin) spring and the gun is unsafe (it may not even cock) without it. Make SURE the gun is unloaded (no pellet) and pointed in a safe direction and then cock it.... I made my adjustments in this order:

1. Sear engagement: From the point where the front screw just contacts the intermediate lever, screw it in slowly, counting flats on the allen key, until the gun fires. Mine took only one turn (6 flats). Then turn the screw out a flat at a time until the gun cocks safely and will not fire with any amount of banging around. That is the MINIMUM safe sear engagement. My gun would not cock reliably with the screw out 1 flat from where it fired, and at 2 flats out it would fire when bumped hard. At 3 flats out, I could not make it fire no matter how hard I bumped it. Note that is only ONE-HALF TURN from where the screw first contacted the intermediate lever - so this adjustment is CRITICAL.

2. Trigger overtravel: This one I found pretty easy. I screwed the screw in until when I pulled the trigger the gun would not fire and then backed it out while holding pressure on the trigger until the gun fired. I then backed it out two more turns. Four turns out allowed the original travel, so I had reduced the overtravel by 50%. Set this however you like it. Note, however, that if you reduce the travel too far, the sear will drag on the hammer and produce inconsistent velocities.

3. First stage length: As you screw this screw in, it moves the resting position of the trigger back, shortening the first stage. I found that I liked it with about 1/8" of travel in the first stage, measured at the tip of the trigger blade. You may like more, or less, it's a very personal thing. Remember, however, if you eliminate the first stage completely the gun may be unsafe as you may actually be removing sear engagement.

Pop the safety out, reinstall the action in the stock, and re-install the safety and try her out!.... I can't believe the improvement....

Bob

Jay · « **Reply #3 on:** April 04, 2011, 12:41:20 PM »

Nice find Bob!!! You should ask to have this mod placed in the library as I'm sure other would enjoy this info.
An WELCOME to the GTA Marijan glad you joined us here

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jonnnyboy · « **Reply #4 on:** April 04, 2011, 01:01:24 PM »

Welcome Marijan, we are glad you are here. Your questions are always welcome here.

Bob, thanks for that post that was not only informative but simple enough for most of us simpletons. I'm going to bookmark this page for future reference.

joe

longislandhunter · « **Reply #5 on:** April 04, 2011, 01:31:06 PM »

Hi Marijan , the others have given you great advice so I just wanted to say hello and welcome you. I'll be looking forward to your future posts.

Jeff

Ribbonstone · « **Reply #6 on:** April 04, 2011, 10:54:42 PM »

http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1296439674/2260+basic+trigger

drifter947 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 05, 2011, 06:33:30 AM »

Thanks a lot guys, although a bit afraid to touch the trigger i'll try to do something than what you suggested. I have no objections to the current accuracy of some 50m is about 15mm (0.6") with Diana High Power 1.37g (Barracuda match 21.1gr), and therefore i had not dared to interfere in the trigger.

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #8 on:** July 08, 2017, 08:49:10 PM »

Quote from: jonnnyboy on April 04, 2011, 01:01:24 PM

I'm going to bookmark this page for future reference.

Ditto.
Posting for future reference

avator · « **Reply #9 on:** January 02, 2019, 06:17:35 PM »

Found this through a simple search today. I just put together a little tinker lego gun using this trigger group. I plan on using this mod...
Thanks Bob.

Van · « **Reply #10 on:** January 02, 2019, 06:58:43 PM »

I like this Baker Air Gun brass trigger with this trigger unit. Its a little classer and feels better than the plastic stock trigger.

Earl · « **Reply #11 on:** January 02, 2019, 08:50:25 PM »

The Baker Air Gun brass trigger is excellent.
I have them on both my Discovery and my Maximus.
They work good, feel good and look good.

avator · « **Reply #12 on:** January 02, 2019, 08:55:39 PM »

I don't have any doubts that the Baker triggers are awesome. This little project I put together is just pieces and parts I had here from other builds. The trigger mods Bob showed here will be just fine for this gun.

FuzzyGrub · « **Reply #13 on:** January 03, 2019, 10:51:29 AM »

Even though I'm replacing the Fortitude trigger with the Gen 1 Mrod, the resurfacing of this thread made me stop at the H/W store and get the 3 screws and spring.

avator · « **Reply #14 on:** January 03, 2019, 10:55:58 AM »

Hey John... What exact spring did you get and which hardware?

FuzzyGrub · « **Reply #15 on:** January 03, 2019, 11:16:49 AM »

Quote from: avator on January 03, 2019, 10:55:58 AM

Hey John... What exact spring did you get and which hardware?

It was from a local ProMart H/W store. They have about a dozen of spring drawers to go through, which included compression springs. It had the right OD and spring wire dia, but is about 3 times longer than needed. It will be easy enough to cut to length. It was a whopping $0.80. I had to make a second stop, at a TruValue for the SHCS.

avator · « **Reply #16 on:** January 03, 2019, 11:28:22 AM »

Thanks... we have an old school hardware here in town, you know, the kind with the old wood floors worn out. I'll check them out this morning.
They even sell a Daisy Red Ryder and bbs.

FuzzyGrub · « **Reply #17 on:** January 03, 2019, 11:40:30 AM »

Quote from: avator on January 03, 2019, 11:28:22 AM

Thanks... we have an old school hardware here in town, you know, the kind with the old wood floors worn out. I'll check them out this morning.
They even sell a Daisy Red Ryder and bbs.

If you can't find it locally, IM me your address, and can send you the remainder of mine.

avator · « **Reply #18 on:** January 03, 2019, 01:13:38 PM »

No luck at the hardware. We have to run to Troy for some stuff. I'll check Lowes. If not, I'll take you up on the offer.
Thanks.

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #19 on:** January 03, 2019, 01:34:24 PM »

Hey Bill,
Check this thread...
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=133596.0

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Disco trigger advice

Author Topic: Disco trigger advice (Read 12781 times - 1 votes) )

drifter947

drifter947

Author Topic: Disco trigger advice (Read 12781 times - 1 votes)
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