Author Topic: Marvel Mystery Oil? (Read 10098 times))

bbv13 · « **on:** February 24, 2016, 02:42:17 PM »

Hi Guys,

I was looking at the Sheridan Repair Manual and it says that a 50/50 mixture of non-detergent 30wt oil and Marvel Mystery Oil works well for reassembly of Sheridan rifles. I always thought that Marvel Mystery Oil is a detergent for breaking down crud in a automobile engine and it seems strange that it would be recomended? Do any of you know if this mixture is okay to use as a lube? Is this the explanation for the red color of Pelgun Oil?

Bryan

Airgun.Sniper · « **Reply #1 on:** February 24, 2016, 02:50:14 PM »

I always figured MMO was a solvent and I think solvents shouldnt be used on airguns...but like others here I am here to learn. Ive always use MM in my gas tank to get better gas mileage

Cheers

Jay

Gertrude · « **Reply #2 on:** February 24, 2016, 03:24:45 PM »

in today's day and age,
and with how far Synthetic lubricants and Citrus based Solvents have come, (since that manual was written),

It is strongly recommended to NOT use any sort of Petroleum Based lubricants or solvents in airguns where high pressures are operating.

bbv13 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2016, 03:37:15 PM »

No doubt break barrel rifles will diesel some with pretty much any lube but pneumatic guns are different and 30wt non-detergent motor oil works fine. My question is about a 50% Marvel Mystery Oil lube?

Bryan

Iamscotticus · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2016, 04:02:10 PM »

its a mystery. that's why its called mystery oil, lol.
I wonder if MMO has any resemblance to transmission fluid.
I don't know if it will detonate, but RTF shouldn't attack rubber.
But I will agree with Tri-5, with all the options we have,
you have a choice of safe solvents.

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #5 on:** February 24, 2016, 04:02:16 PM »

I have used MMO as an air tool oil for decades. Not the same I know, but no ill effects on seals on those.
I did a quick search of ingredient and their MSDS lists
COMPONENT ____________ CONCENTRATION (wt %)
Naphthenic Hydrocarbons ______ 70 – 80%
Mineral Spirits _______________ 20 – 30%
Chlorinated Hydrocarbons ______ 0 – 1 %

Makes me wonder what gives it that wonderful "wintergreen" smell?

bbv13 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 24, 2016, 04:42:22 PM »

I looks like Marvel Mystery Oil is 74% mineral oil, 25% mineral spirits and 1% lard. I know mineral spirits isn't as harsh as lacquer thinner but I don't think it would be good used all the time. I guess it could be useful when doing a reseal to clean any debri out? Maybe that's why the note is in the repair manual?

Bryan

Back_Roads · « **Reply #7 on:** February 24, 2016, 05:19:26 PM »

In my mechanic days we used marvel mystery oil to lube our air tools , it did make the shop minty fresh

And we didn't have any trouble with our air tools . So i am assuming on arebuild it might be ok , but not as a primary lube, and their are much more superior lubes available now.

Motorhead · « **Reply #8 on:** February 24, 2016, 05:25:28 PM »

Timmy at Mac-1 does a special blend that also has Neetsfoot oil in the blend to help in keeping Leather pump cups supple & sealing well.

Mikes Garage · « **Reply #9 on:** February 24, 2016, 09:19:18 PM »

I'm not sure why we are all being told to use ND motor oil.

Here's what I know, and maybe some of you can add to it:

(1) ND motor oils work great in engines that have no real filtration system. The lack of detergents means that dirt trapped in the oil drifts to the bottom of the sump after the engine is shut off and will eventually collect there to be removed when the oil is drained and changed. Modern engines in cars use filters, so they depend on the detergents in oil to help keep dirt and foreign particles in suspension until they can be removed by the filter. I don't think any of this matters much to us in airgun land. Does it?

(2) The famouse Gene Sunday's mystery oil (30wt oil w/ moly paste/grease dissolved in it) works GREAT on all steel pivot points and hinge points. That's where moly shines (steel parts plus high contact stress), and this will beat plain old oil any time. I would even say that detergent oil works best in this situation, as it keeps the moly particles in suspension better and longer. Personally I use synthetic 5W-30 plus moly for these applications and it has worked great for years.

(3) I don't think there is any disadvantage to using synthetics as the basic molecules are very similar, the advantage of synthetics is that the carbon chain length is apparently more consistent.

(4) if you are worried at all about the chemical incompatibility of motor oils vs. rubber o-rings and the like, use a silicone oil. Just don't depend on it for your linkages and pivot points because silicones are terrible for high contact loads.

Would be interested to hear other's thoughts as I am sure I don't know the half of it.

Mike

Motorhead · « **Reply #10 on:** February 24, 2016, 09:40:21 PM »

Being pneumatic pumps bring out the moisture within the air compressed .... Oil used should ALSO be highly NON Hydroscopic so moisture stays beaded up and gets shot out rather than making milky water/lube mud exacerbating corrosion within the action.

BillK · « **Reply #11 on:** February 24, 2016, 10:12:57 PM »

Why mess around with oils & such when Mac1 Secret Sauce is so cheap & so good & so proven?
We spend big money on guns & ammo. Why try & save penny's on lubrication?

daveb50 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 24, 2016, 10:18:00 PM »

I put a few drops of MMO in my alcohol/nitro powered Rc Airplane engines after flying to keep them from corroding because of the fuel. After a couple sat for a year or more, the MMO turned gunky and they were slugish to turn over. I now use air tool oil in my engines, and no more problems. As for my pellet guns, I did use Pellgun oil at first, but got some Mac1 "secret sauce" after getting my '68 Blue Streak.

Habanero69er · « **Reply #13 on:** February 24, 2016, 10:25:36 PM »

Quote from: BillK on February 24, 2016, 10:12:57 PM

Why mess around with oils & such when Mac1 Secret Sauce is so cheap & so good & so proven?
We spend big money on guns & ammo. Why try & save penny's on lubrication?

+1

bbv13 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 24, 2016, 10:44:28 PM »

Quote from: BillK on February 24, 2016, 10:12:57 PM

Why mess around with oils & such when Mac1 Secret Sauce is so cheap & so good & so proven?
We spend big money on guns & ammo. Why try & save penny's on lubrication?

Saving money has nothing to do with my starting this thread. But sense you went there. We live in a rapidly changing world and what's available one day isn't the next. Knowing what can or cannot be used is valuable information and saving a little money is never a bad thing.

I use Secrete Sauce on all my pumpers.

Mike made some interesting points. I would like to hear some responses to his post.

Bryan

Iamscotticus · « **Reply #15 on:** February 25, 2016, 01:45:18 PM »

I would agree with sticking with one lube, even if its not the best.
Overlapping/mixing lubes can cause worse problems than the sub-par lube alone.

bbv13 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 26, 2016, 01:23:50 PM »

Quote from: Mikes Garage on February 24, 2016, 09:19:18 PM

I'm not sure why we are all being told to use ND motor oil.

Here's what I know, and maybe some of you can add to it:

(1) ND motor oils work great in engines that have no real filtration system. The lack of detergents means that dirt trapped in the oil drifts to the bottom of the sump after the engine is shut off and will eventually collect there to be removed when the oil is drained and changed. Modern engines in cars use filters, so they depend on the detergents in oil to help keep dirt and foreign particles in suspension until they can be removed by the filter. I don't think any of this matters much to us in airgun land. Does it?

(2) The famouse Gene Sunday's mystery oil (30wt oil w/ moly paste/grease dissolved in it) works GREAT on all steel pivot points and hinge points. That's where moly shines (steel parts plus high contact stress), and this will beat plain old oil any time. I would even say that detergent oil works best in this situation, as it keeps the moly particles in suspension better and longer. Personally I use synthetic 5W-30 plus moly for these applications and it has worked great for years.

(3) I don't think there is any disadvantage to using synthetics as the basic molecules are very similar, the advantage of synthetics is that the carbon chain length is apparently more consistent.

(4) if you are worried at all about the chemical incompatibility of motor oils vs. rubber o-rings and the like, use a silicone oil. Just don't depend on it for your linkages and pivot points because silicones are terrible for high contact loads.

Would be interested to hear other's thoughts as I am sure I don't know the half of it.

Mike

Hi Mike,

I'm not going to use MMO in any gun long term but I do think I'm going to give a 50/50 mixture a try the next time I need to rejuvenate an old pumper. It seems to me that the detergent in MMO might come in handy for breaking down the gunk inside of a gun that's been sitting around for years?

I reposted your response because I think it deserves a few more reads.

Bryan

PBguns · « **Reply #17 on:** March 01, 2016, 01:29:35 AM »

Quote from: Hoosier Daddy on February 24, 2016, 04:02:16 PM

I have used MMO as an air tool oil for decades. Not the same I know, but no ill effects on seals on those.
I did a quick search of ingredient and their MSDS lists
COMPONENT ____________ CONCENTRATION (wt %)
Naphthenic Hydrocarbons ______ 70 – 80%
Mineral Spirits _______________ 20 – 30%
Chlorinated Hydrocarbons ______ 0 – 1 %

Makes me wonder what gives it that wonderful "wintergreen" smell?

I have been using MMO to lube airtools for at least 3 decades. Not one issue with any air tool I have used it on.

sshewins · « **Reply #18 on:** April 18, 2016, 10:55:46 PM »

As far as synthetics go, what does the group think of something like Slick 50 for the lube in the hammer area? Really no seals to worry about.

Iamscotticus · « **Reply #19 on:** April 18, 2016, 11:46:41 PM »

Quote from: sshewins on April 18, 2016, 10:55:46 PM

As far as synthetics go, what does the group think of something like Slick 50 for the lube in the hammer area? Really no seals to worry about.

bead hone or frog lube.
I wouldn't use slick 50 on a can opener

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Marvel Mystery Oil?

Author Topic: Marvel Mystery Oil? (Read 10098 times))